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Messages - tomcattoy

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1
Here is an update:  I went back through the valve adjustment and carefully adjusted to .016.  I bought a dwell meter and set the points to 42*.  I got a little better power and less tappet noise, so I gained something.  But, when I was setting the timing, I revved the engine and found that there was no advance at high RPM....the centrifugal advance was not working.  So, I bought a replacement distributor from KaiserWillys and installed it last Saturday.  What a difference!  I was able to accelerate through third gear up to an easy 50mph and then dropped into overdrive for almost 60 mph.  It was the distributor all along....

Thanks everyone for the input.

2
Thanks for all the info and suggestions. 

3
I adjusted the valves some time ago, and really didn't want to go through that again.  But, I might as well start from the beginning to make sure everything is right.


One last question...is it worth replacing the distributor to eliminate that as a problem?  If so, can anyone recommend a good source for one?

4
Thanks for advice...I will go back thru the tune-up process.  Sounds like the compression difference isn't necessarily the problem.

5
No other Willys near by....

The points and condenser are new, but I will recheck the gap.  I believe the timing is right, and I have moved it and driven it a couple of times to get the most out of it without backfiring. 

Thought it might be the distributor, but then I would think it would be missing and running rough.  It has a miss periodically at idle or higher rpm, but very sporadic.

Just not much power on the high end...can barely hold 45 mph at best.

6
My jeep has pretty good power in 1st and 2nd gears on the flatland, but any type of incline and in 3rd causes it to bog down.  I got a little more pep by tweaking the timing, but not enough.

I had checked the compression some time ago with an old gauge I've had for about 30 years.  Decided to get a new gauge and found the following compressions:  #1=110 psi; #2=110 psi; #3 = 90 psi; #4 = 105 psi.

So, is the low compression in #3 enough to cause a marked decline in power?  I also put some oil in #3 and retested, which came up to 105 psi.  This would indicate the rings are bad.

Thoughts?

7
Been awhile, but wanted to report that the jeep is now running good.  Turns out it was the wrong coil.  I ended up taking it to a local shop and they determined that it had a coil requiring an external resistor (which I don't have), so installed a coil with internal resistor and it runs fine.

The gas color issue went away, so it may be that the new filter or fuel tank had some coloration that eventually cleared out.

Now I have a noisy 3rd gear to work on and some chatter in the rear end when making a tight turn....oh well.

8
I did not use a spacer at the fuel pump.  I like the idea of the spray bottle with gas...I'll try that this weekend.

The gas I put in is just regular 87 gas, and it is basically clear (white), as can be seen in the photo.  The same gas came out the amber color at the carb connection....very strange.  I will probably drain everything and start again too see if the color change continues.

I will post the results.

9
Thanks, Mark and Tim.  The comment about having a strong spray of gas when the gas pedal is pushed has me pretty much convinced it is the carb pump...I don't see any spray.   

10
It was running, but had a Solex carb, electric fuel pump, and plastic gas tank.  I changed everything back to "original".  The photo showing the gas color shows the clear gas in the measuring cup that I poured into the tank, and the amber color in the mason jar that I pumped out through the fuel filter.  Both seem to smell the same.  I guess I should drain the couple gallons and refill....

11
Thanks for the input.  I have a new condensor, along with points, rotor and cap.  The fuel delivery from the line at the carb is strong, as it filled the mason jar in the photo in just a few turns of the engine.  The color of the fuel in the photo is the clear gas that I put in, and the amber gas that pumped out at the carb (wierd?).  I will take the top off the carb and see what the level of the gas is in the bowl.  When a pull the trottle rod, should there be a steady stream of gas sprayed into the carb throat?  The rubber lines on the fuel filter came that length, so I did not cut them.

When the engine does start, it will fire and then spin without firing, then intermittant fire, then stall.  It sounds like it is running out of gas, but maybe it could be an ignition issue from the distributor? 


12
I can't keep my '51 L-134 running.� I just finished replacing the fuel tank with a steel version from Kaiser-Willys, new fuel pump, new in-line filter, and rebuilt carburetor (W-O) (see attached photo).� Initially, it started up and I got about three miles out of it before it started spitting and acting just like it was running out of gas.

So, tonight I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and pumped gas into a jar.� Plenty of fuel volume from the fuel pump, but the color of the gas is amber (see attached photo).� Could this be some contamination from the new fuel tank?�

Before disconnecting the line, I started the engine and it continued to act like no gas.� With the engine off, I looked down into the carb and pulled the accelerator rod a few times.� I did not see a steady stream of gas going into the carb, but only what looked like a trickle down the inside walls of the carb.� Could it be the accelerator pump is bad in the "rebuilt" carb?

Any ideas?

13
I will try the socket/ratchet approach for sure.  Hopefully I will fin timing marks.  Otherwise, I will try Mark's trick.

Thanks.

14
I pulled my distributor to clean and lube it, and put in new points and condenser.  I had the rotor pointing to the #1 cylinder wire when I pulled it.  Now I am trying to find the timing marks on the flywheel to set everything correct.

The problem is finding the timing marks.  I am trying to do this alone, so turning the flywheel and watching the through the site hole is a pain.  Any easy ways to find the marks, or at least control a slow steady turn of the engine in order to find the marks?

15
Thanks, 1955CJ-5!  That is the exact arm that I need.  I have already ordered from the eBay site.

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