Messages

1

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / frame repair

« on: October 16, 2014, 07:11:35 PM »

Im trying to get my project going again, it been sitting idle in pieces since my son was born 3.5 years ago.� I have rebuilt the axles and have new hardware to bolt them up to the frame but need to fix the frame first.� The previous owner had hit a tree and the front bumper had a bend in it.� After measuring the frame, I noticed that the passenger side frame rail is racked back, not sure it that is the correct term.� There is no bowing or twisting of either rail, and it is level on all planes.� Measuring the frame per the maintenance manual, I noticed that the cross measurements are out by 1/4 inch. The factory tollerance is 1/8 inch.� This corresponds with the bent bumper, right side dent, right frame raile racked.  My question is a two part.� First, is this still close enough to leave it alone and just build it up or, second, what is the best way to make the frame square again.�

Thanks

2

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Speedi sleeve

« on: November 27, 2010, 10:33:04 AM »

Thanks Larry, I must have skipped right over that part.  Speed reading is not my forte, with the holiday I had to sneak a few minutes on the computer.  As for the price of the used spindle I must have gotten the price mixed up with all the other numbers in my head, ie. 15 minutes per pound times 12 pounds, 350 degrees for 3 hours, etc.    I have someone near my house who might have an extra one laying around that will serviceable, if not I think you have shown me that the Speedi Sleeve my not be cost effective for me, but a great option to keep in my bag of tricks.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Speedi sleeve

« on: November 25, 2010, 03:28:22 PM »

Thanks everyone for your input, you've all given me some great info.  It definitely sounds like a good option.  I guess my only other question is what is the cost for a sleeve.  I noticed that new spindles cost about $45, used ones from Walcks are about $15.  Is it cost effective to repair or just replace with a used spindle.

Jeremy

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Speedi sleeve

« on: November 24, 2010, 06:18:10 PM »

Has anyone here used a speedi sleeve on there vehicles.  More directly on there spindle for the Dana 25.  I have one of my spindles with good sized pits and gouges where the hub seal rides.  I looked on there website but am unclear what size to order.  I know you can sleeve a pinion yoke but can you do a spindle too?  Also is the price for the sleeve worth it or is it better to just find another spindle.  Thanks

Jeremy

5

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: King pin preload

« on: November 21, 2010, 05:58:35 PM »

Thanks again Doug, I tried putting a washer in today but it would not fit.  Im gonna have to see if I can find a thinner one.  I re-torqued the bolts to 40 lbs as stated by Novaks instead of the 30 lbs I had done before and was able to increase the preload to 10 lbs.  If I cannot find a thinner washer I might just call well enough alone, Im above the original spec and below the the new one.

6

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: King pin preload

« on: November 20, 2010, 07:59:35 PM »

Thanks Doug, I was not aware of the info on the Novak site, Im gonna bookmark that one.  A follow up question for anyone, I have now seen it written in one place that suggests 6-9 lbs and two places for 12-16 lbs, which one is right?  The Willys manual I have is the one that says 6-9 but I have heard that there were further revisions from WO, is that where the 12-16 came from?  Secondly, does anybody know what the preload should be after the seals are installed?  I have them installed on one of mine and I am getting about 20 lbs, all I can find written is that it will increase considerably with them installed.  Im sure Im being to matter of fact on this matter, bare with me, this is the first part of my frame off restoration.

Jeremy

7

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / King pin preload

« on: November 19, 2010, 06:53:14 PM »

So, Im reassembling my front axle and I've got the left side knuckle completed.  I was able to get the preload on the king pin set at 8 lbs before I installed the seals.  On the right side I can only get 5 lbs, and that is with no shims.  The Mechanics manual I have says to get 6-9 lbs, Vernco says to get 12-16 lbs.  My question is, is 5 lbs good enough, if not, how can I increase it without removing anymore shims?

8

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / torque settings

« on: November 18, 2010, 03:16:36 PM »

Where can I find the torque settings for all of the various sizes of bolts.  I have the Owners Manual, Parts Manual, and Mechanics Manual and I can only find some of torque settings.

Jeremy

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Front axle pinion help

« on: November 18, 2010, 02:56:18 PM »

I think you were right Doug, I think I had the seal on backwards.  I originally installed it so the flat aspect was inside, which left the part with the step (where the spring is housed internally) on the outside.  Hence why the dust shield was hitting it.  Luckily I had a second seal here which was meant for the rear axle (sorry rear axle, you will have to wait for another shipment).  I installed it with the step inboard and the flat outboard and was able to torque it all up and everything seems well in my garage again.  BTW, my front dust shield is a small one in comparison to the large one on my rear axle.  Thank you for the help.

Jeremy

10

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Front axle pinion help

« on: November 18, 2010, 11:55:45 AM »

Thank you, thats what Im hoping.  I looked at the Vernco website and it looks like it should sit below the lip of the housing.  Im gonna try that as soon as I can get the yoke off.

11

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Front axle pinion help

« on: November 18, 2010, 10:32:12 AM »

So when tearing down my front axle I made a rookie maneuver, I didn't take note of how many threads were showing on the pinion.  Now that I am trying to put it back together Im hitting a snag.  All I did with the pinion was replace the slinger, gasket, and seal.  Now that the new parts are on and I tried putting the yoke back on Im finding a problem.  Using my impact wrench, I am trying to torque the shaft nut down but am finding that I have no threads showing, yet the dust shield is hitting the new seal causing the yoke to bind up.  My guess is that either the pinion shaft as been pushed into the differential housing (it doesn't look like it has from the inside), or the new seal is not seated all the way (it sits flush with the outer lip of the differential housing).  Has anyone had a snag like this or does anyone have an idea for me to check or try.  I am going to pull the yoke off again today and recheck everything.

12

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Parking brake assembly

« on: January 31, 2019, 03:12:21 PM »

I have been working on my �51 for over 9 years now, thanks to plenty of distractions.  I am re-assembling the drive line and am having trouble with the parking brake.  I am using the original backing plate drum and hardware but have new pads.  All parts were cleaned and painted, except for the inside of the drum.  When I try to put the drum on over the pads, it is tight, very tight to the point that I cannot turn the drum.  The adjusters are in as far as they can go and the actuator has no pressure on it.  Is there something I am missing.  Is it acceptable to sand down the shoes a bit or is there an old trick that I need to learn?

Thanks,

Jeremy