Messages

1

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: dana 18 t case removel

« on: September 01, 2025, 10:10:46 AM »

There is a bolt securing the transfer case to the transmission that is installed from front-to-back, be sure to remove it....it is below the shifter cane casting....

Also, the t-case casting is the rear transmission bearing retainer... ...you need to remove the shift tower and use some wire to hold the output shaft in place or it will slip back and all those little roller bearings will end up in the bottom of the transmission...

2

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: Too rusty to save?

« on: September 11, 2024, 01:33:08 PM »

I'm still at it......guess they are never "done" 

Installed the governor and rear PTO gearbox.

Found a belt drive.

And I found a M38 seat bottom, NOS, springs, bottom plate and all. What a difference!

Who knows what comes next...

3

Buy, Sell, Trade / Cracked Supersonic Head..

« on: June 15, 2024, 01:40:55 PM »

Just pay the shipping from 83709 and it's yours!

Approx. 25lbs.

4

Gearboxes and axles / Clutch replacement

« on: May 27, 2024, 11:53:29 AM »

Shopping for a clutch kit.

Found the usual Crown and Omix-Ada offerings.

Then I ran across this:

https://www.vintagejeeps.com/p-2168-clutch-kit-638992-k.aspx

Anyone tried it? Found a thread on the CJ2a page but no comment on how it worked once installed.

Thanks,

Randy

5

Your CJ-3A Project / Re: Too rusty to save?

« on: February 04, 2023, 11:17:18 AM »

It was suggested that I start a thread to get some opinions on whether I should buy a truckload of repair panels or a replacement tub....Now I've read several threads on the tubs and realize they too require lots of work. The trouble with the repair panels is that I have little welding experience, and no welder...I'm willing to learn..but first some pictures..

Realize that what you are looking at on the floors is the first replacement panel that has rusted through. In the case of the drivers side there are three layers of floor...The tool box is welded over as is the riser and the area behind the seats....Frame has no rust through and appears solid.

I've been told that photobucket will no� longer host third party pictures...and that may mean those posted in this thread..so if you see no pictures that is why....updated 7/3/2017







It's been ten years since I started this thread......hard to believe!!

I still drive the 3a, and it still looks good and drives just like a jeep.....nothing has failed or cracked or fallen off....but I don't attempt crossing the Rubicon Trail or anything like that....just a few dirt roads here and there.

A friend has a 14 year old son and he wants to learn to drive a stick, so we've been driving around empty parking lots learning to shift....

6

Engine compartment / Re: Reliable machine shop in PA-DE-NJ-MD area

« on: November 20, 2022, 09:06:32 PM »

I found the machine shop that built my L-134 by calling the local Military Vehicle Preservation Association (MVPA) chapter. I figured that if anyone knew of a reliable shop, they would.

That was nearly 10 years ago, still running fine....

Randy

7

BODY and trim / Re: Body “things”

« on: October 02, 2022, 11:54:50 AM »

I have the same access way on my '55...

It also has the snorkel cutout in the hood with a corresponding indent on the fender ridge.

It sort of aligns with the horn mounted on the inside......maybe to allow for an external horn or siren wiring?

Someone will know....

Randy

8

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Brake & Clutch Pedal Cross Shaft

« on: September 07, 2022, 11:02:36 PM »

You can remove the pedals from their respective pedal arms, and then the arms can be disconnected and removed from the cross shaft. On my 3a it looks like the tailpipe will have to be loosened and moved so the cross shaft can be pushed towards the transmission and then removed. There is also a brace that supports the end of the cross shaft, it is fastened using the bolts that hold the master cylinder in place.

Take a picture before you take it apart so you can get the various spacers and pins back in the right order as these will center the pedal arms on the opening in the toe board and allow the pedals to be installed without rubbing the sheet metal.

9

Engine compartment / Re: Oil pump failure

« on: September 04, 2022, 01:21:28 PM »

I read a little about oil pump failures over in the cj2a forum.

One had broken teeth on the pump drive gear as the second internal pump gear had frozen to the shaft. Another fellow had made a gasket that went between the oil pickup tube and the block, and he had forgotten to punch the center hole so no oil flow...it would seem that just about anything is possible.

It sure seems that if the pump is turning, there would be flow and pressure, as long as the pump is pulling oil from the sump.

I do not know how you would check that without at least removing the pan.

When you take the pump out, the oil passages should be visible in the mating surface.

Could you then either blow air into the sump, via the pump's supply passageway, or maybe slowly pressurize the sump and force oil through the float/oil pickup and send it out the passage that goes to the pump( or the floor in this case...)? This might at least show you that oil is available to the pump.

I'm sure you will figure it out.

I have a Model A pickup, and the engine is a similar L-head four cylinder. The oil system is non-pressurized. Oil is pumped directly into the valve/lifter gallery and from there is distributed via drilled passages to the main bearings. The rods are oiled through a dipper tray and scoops, and the cam gear gets oil as it overflows the front of the gallery and spills onto the gears.

So the point is there is plenty of flow, but if you have an accessory pressure gauge it will show very little pressure (I'm told less that 5 pounds) as there is no restriction to the flow.

Good luck.

When you figure it out please let us know.

Randy

10

Engine compartment / Re: Oil pump failure

« on: September 03, 2022, 01:45:34 PM »

Do you have the bypass canister oil filter installed? Did it fill with oil after the initial startup?

Have you tried to remove one of the other pipe plugs in the oil gallery? Was just thinking maybe the rearmost plug where the oil gauge is usually connected is somehow blocked. Did you use the same oil line that goes to the dash gauge to hook up the in-line gauge, or plumb it somewhere else? You might be able to attach the in-line gauge to the input hose at the oil filter.

Just looking for something that might be in common to both your test runs, rather than the oil pump itself. Did you take the first pump apart to see if there were any problems with it? They are so simple it's hard imagine that they would fail, other than a sheared shaft or or a drive gear that had come loose, but they do fail. Since the distributor is turning the pump must be turning also. I have an old pump, I'm gonna dig it out and see what I can learn.

I don't remember if anyone has posted a reason for their pump failing.

Randy

11

Engine compartment / Re: Raw oil passing out of tailpipe

« on: September 02, 2022, 10:34:48 PM »

Here is the video. It takes a few seconds before the oil starts flowing..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EiQVnz2h8c


And here is a link to the entire thread. lots of good troubleshooting info.


https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=4833.30

12

Engine compartment / Re: Raw oil passing out of tailpipe

« on: September 02, 2022, 10:25:41 PM »

Here are a couple of things that I would look for.

I would verify that it is oil.  It just seems to me that for oil to be dripping out the exhaust, there would have to be a lot of oil in the tail pipe and muffler. Excess water vapor would be black and sooty by the time it condensed and exited the tail pipe. Blue exhaust smoke is oil smoke, light colored almost white smoke would be water vapor.

Check the oil in the sump. If it is milky colored it has water mixed in. I'm thinking maybe a head gasket has failed.

Also smell the oil in the sump via the dipstick. Does it smell like gasoline? Gas can enter the sump through a failed or ruptured diaphragm in the fuel pump. There was a thread a while back where the engine was literally pumping a gas/oil mixture out through the oil filler tube. This in turn filled the cross tube and from there into the carb and cylinders. The fuel pump diaphragm had failed and the sump filled until it came gushing out the oil fill tube. It was amazing... I'll post it if I can find the thread.

Removing and inspecting the sparkplugs might turn up a wet or excessively sooty plug. This may at least point you to one particular cylinder.

A compression check may tell you something as well.

Good luck...I'm going to look for that other thread with the failed fuel pump.

13

BODY and trim / Re: Windshield Latches

« on: August 31, 2022, 12:42:25 PM »

Here are a couple of pictures of the latches on my '51.

The hook part that fastens to the dash is adjustable, but it looks like you need to move it further than what is available.

It almost looks as though the latch should be in the upper hole......better call Walck's..

14

BODY and trim / Re: CJ3a windshield vent

« on: August 30, 2022, 02:28:28 PM »

Here is the thread by the fellow who made the vent stops.

https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=4032.75#top

15

BODY and trim / Re: CJ3a windshield vent

« on: August 30, 2022, 02:22:45 PM »

Here are a couple of pictures of the loop that holds the latch closed.

One of the members here was making them, but it's been a little while. I'll let you know if I can find his posts.