Messages

1

BODY and trim / Re: Molded floor mat

« on: March 09, 2023, 03:04:35 PM »

Old thread, but you can make your own rubber mats.  I used ribbed material from McMaster-Carr, the 1/8" neoprene for the front mats (6974T71) and the 1/4" thick for the bed mat (6974T4-heavy enough I don't think it will get blown around).  The latter only needs trimmed to length as it fits the bed width perfect.
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/2405/6897T511

The only caveat is the price.  I suspect these neoprene mats will outlast the typical Willys vendor type variety many times over.  The one set of those (Omix???) I had started to come apart before a year was out.  I think the rubber mats are better rust wise than indoor-outdoor carpet but you still need to pull them up if things get wet.

Maybe Mark will have good luck with the Herculiner since there will be a hardtop on his Willys.  I used it on the rear bumper of my 3B and it has faded to a dull grey.  It doesn't like UV.

2

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Overdrive Unit Weight

« on: March 09, 2023, 11:25:16 AM »

Depending on the application, one may end up fabricating the linkage anyway.  This is what I ended making for my 3B.

3

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Power Steering conversion for CJ3B HELP

« on: November 27, 2022, 08:24:25 PM »

There exists all sorts of information on this topic.  I would start here:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/17911/

A further search of ECJ5 will probably turn up posts on all sorts of swaps.

4

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Which shocks to use?

« on: August 30, 2022, 01:53:38 PM »

I used Rancho 5000's on my 3B with the 2 1/2" Rancho lift springs.  I may have those numbers someplace.  The best way to determine shock lengths is to jack one wheel up until it lifts the entire end of the Willys up and measure for the compressed length.  The opposite drooping side will be close to full extension at that point.

5

Chassis, brakes and suspension. / Re: Replace a damaged Dana 18 rear output shaft housing questiob

« on: August 30, 2022, 01:46:59 PM »

As indicated, yes, you need to check the end play.  Even if it was correctly set on the prior installation, any wear on the tapered roller bearings may require a thicker shim pack.

6

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Re: CJ3B - Herm Steering Kit

« on: June 23, 2022, 10:45:38 PM »

I'm another that just can't see any advantage of Herm's kit.  The Saginaw installation has no doubt been completed thousands of times on flatties, is both straight forward and well documented.

7

Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / Re: Permanent removal of E brake on cj3b

« on: June 05, 2022, 11:17:14 AM »

8

Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / Re: Permanent removal of E brake on cj3b

« on: June 04, 2022, 03:56:47 PM »

To do this is simple remove all the brake parts and replace the companion flange with one like on the front of the transfercase. I have no Drive line mounted E brake because I Have modern 11" Drum brakes on the back of my 2A and it has internal E Brakes which I made a fancy Balance bar system and have hooked up to the Dash mounted Cane.

Be mindful when you replace the companion flange with a regular U-joint, your driveshaft needs to be another inch longer to end up the same place on the spline travel.

9

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Re: T86AA Crack

« on: June 02, 2022, 10:44:18 AM »

No, I would not run that.  Number one, it will always leak, and number two, that is a really poor place to have a crack.  If you have a good machine shop available, it could likely be welded and re-machined but that would also likely cost way more than finding another case.

10

"Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites / Re: Anti Squeak Material

« on: February 06, 2022, 05:18:18 PM »

I used adhesive backed polyurethane (McMaster-Carr  8997K28) on my 3B.  I "dry fitted" it to the grill to mark the holes and punched them out.  Then peeled the backing and stuck them on the grill.  It stays in-place when removing the fenders.      

11

Once You've Joined / Re: Hello from 1MtnJeep!

« on: January 10, 2022, 09:57:44 PM »

Probably the inlet for the fresh air heater option that started in 1959.

12

Your CJ-3B Project / Re: delayed restoration

« on: November 23, 2021, 11:52:06 AM »

If the Cowl, Firewall, Toe Boards, Dash, rear floor, riser, rear valance, and Tunnel are in good shape Then rebuilding the Tub using replacement panels from Classic Enterprises is doable. If the hat channels, Rear floor/Riser are shot then by the time you buy all those parts and unless you already have the gear and skill for welding then a New Tub is a better choice.

I rebuilt my whole tub I made the rear floor flat I made all the under floor supports from 3/4 x 1 1/2" and 1 x 2" tubing (I am going to be putting Oak strips on my floors) And it was a huge amount of work. Then add in the $600 investment in Welding equipment and supplies and The cost of a New Tub for most people just makes sense.

I agree.  If one's time is worth more than a $1/hr, most basket case tubs are better replaced.  I personally see little difference in originality whether they were replaced one piece at a time or in-mass if most of it is replaced anyway.  DeBella's SGI replacements seem to get pretty good review's (no personal experience with them).

13

Buy, Sell, Trade / Re: CJ3B Hood Wanted

« on: November 22, 2021, 09:11:21 PM »

I have a steel repop from about 1975 that I couldn't fit to my glass tub.  Painted but never really installed.  It has just been a space sitter in the shed for the last 4+ decades.  A freebe if you want it and can arrange shipping.

John G

14

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Shackle Bracket Bushings Stuck

« on: June 23, 2021, 09:48:39 PM »

I machined out a "punch" with the 7/16's pilot and with the OD about 0.010 smaller that the OD of the bushing.  I then used a C frame and just pressed the old ones out.  Used the same tool to install new ones.  IMO, you should avoid beating on the hangers.  They can and will bend.  The HF C frame will work for this job.

15

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Spring Perch Wedges

« on: June 23, 2021, 09:39:59 PM »

I think I would just remove those wood spacer blocks and see what it looks like.  If the transmission/transfer case still clears the sheet metal like it should, there would appear to be little reason for them.  Your driveshaft angles should be much closer without them.  Ideally, the angle at the pinion and at the companion flange should be equal.  You may still need the spring perch shims but they are going to be in the opposite orientation from what is normally the case.  You can get shims made to whatever angle you want or, if you have access to a milling machine, just make your own.