Messages

1

Engine compartment / Re: Fuel Pump Installation

« on: March 18, 2023, 09:06:36 AM »

Scout:  No rubber to straight steel. Two barbs to rubber with one each worm clamp.

Rus C.:  Not dual action pump.  The old pump seems trash and leads to where can I find someone to overhaul.  The two "new" pumps are identical to the old.  Have not opened to inspect the
             interior parts. 

Note in Passing:  As I have attempted to work this, it was suggested to pressurize the fuel tank slightly.  I rigged a rubber cap for the tank and was able to hold a low pressure for a couple of
                         minutes as I cranked the engine.  There was still no flow from the fuel pump.

                         As I have read through some of the problems with fuel and carbs, the term "chicom pump" is used.  I'm thinking perhaps I am a victim of just that.  Is there a reliable source 
                         for the "real thing"?

                         Not of significance here, but I'm about to install a Chicom distributor on my 50's Ford tractor.  This fuel pump thing isn't giving me much hope.

2

Engine compartment / Fuel Pump Installation

« on: March 17, 2023, 03:35:24 PM »

CJ3A with F engine.  Removed old pump due to contamination.  Prior to contamination the pump had performed well.  Ordered and installed "new" pump...no fuel flow.  Pump source acknowledged the problem and supplied a second pump.  Installed...same result...no fuel.  Fuel line from tank flows well when held low enough for gravity feed.  Pump to carb line blows free.  Two bad pumps in a row?  I feel I may be doing something wrong. But what? Finger checking the suck side of the pump seems to indicate "pull" but the only test I find is gauge with engine running.  No fuel to carb...no run.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Don Parrish  Phoenix

3

Engine compartment / Accelerator Linkage Modification

« on: September 25, 2016, 06:36:20 PM »

CJ3A, F134 with a Holey LIST 1817 Carb.  Linkage is a problem (as in stuck at near full throttle).  Too many changes of direction from pedal, up and over the engine to the right side carb mounting and then attachment to the carb itself.  Poor work at the carb? or just pivots and cranks worn out.  Thinking of putting all those questions aside and trying a motorcycle type throttle cable with an appropriate spring to bring back to idle.  Anybody tried this? Sure would appreciate some direction here.  Embarrassing to need to turn off the key on these near overspeeds.   Don Parrish