OK, you guys are very considerate not to have pointed out my faulty memory that located the gear on the distributor shaft instead of the oil pump shaft, but where's the fun in that? Senior memory moments often make for amusing posts, and I'm sure that won't be the last one for me
How about a missing or damaged tooth on the gear on the camshaft, the one that engages the gear at the end of the distributor shaft? I can't help thinking about starting problems that come back to a missing tooth on the ring gear and only appear when the ring gear stops in the position where the missing tooth would engage with the starter gear the next time you try to start the engine. Could a similar thing happen if distributor/camshaft gears are damaged, maybe just throwing the ignition timing off off a bit but not preventing ignition?
You guys seem pretty professional and I'm impressed with the skill and attention to detail in this project. I'm sure you already know this, but just for safety's sake, keep in mind that diethyl ether is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Would hate to hear that all your work went up in flames! Again, I expect you already knew this and I am probably just adding unnecessary info here, but safety first, eh . . .
That's kind of depressing. Do you think the replacement bushings were a bit undersized? I bought a rebuild kit that included everything but the flapper. The bearings are brass or bronze and have small spines around the circumference running parallel to the shaft. I assume that the spines are meant to compress as the bearing is driven into the manifold and thus ensure that the bushing is held tightly.
I can see that getting to the point where a replacement manifold complete with flapper installed would be the best way to avoid any more nasty surprises. I'm going to have to inspect the manifolds again to be sure that I'm not already at that point. I appreciate hearing about your experience. It's valuable information to pass along whether it was a good experience or not so good.
Looks like a classic risk/reward situation. If good manifolds were cheap and plentiful (and apparently they're not!) I'd cut that flapper out and convince the bushings to retire. The odds seem to favor leaving the old flapper, shaft, and bushings in place, however, and going with the partial rebuild. Thanks all for helping me make the smart decision!
Thanks! AJP also has the flapper as a separate item so I'm tempted to buy one now . . . just in case. But I'd be really torqued if I did the complete rebuild and ended up busting the manifold so no decision yet. Maybe I should find a replacement exhaust manifold to have on hand ;-)
1955 . . . Good stuff. I hadn't thought about the potential damage to the manifold from removing the bushings. I probably won't replace the flapper and bushings. I did buy a rebuild kit but it did not include a flapper and I haven't found any that do, nor have I found any replacement flappers for sale. In case I have a senior moment and crazily decide to go ahead with a complete replacement, where did you find a new flapper (or did you)?
Thanks! I checked the play on the shaft/flapper and compared it to the play with a new shaft and bushings held to a bench top. Seemed about the same, maybe a little more in the old shaft. I'm leaning toward just replacing the external parts, but I'l sleep on it a bit.
I'm replacing an old heat riser. Searched for posts about this and found a brief mention and some pics in a topic in the Your Stock Jeep Project area (Too rusty to save?) by 1955CJ-5. Mentioned there that he welded the flapper to the shaft. Is that the common method of attachment? If so, what is the usual, or easiest, way to remove the old shaft and flapper from the manifold? Or is it OK/better to leave the old shaft and flapper and just replace the other parts? Thanks in advance for your usual great advice!
Rubber is cheaper than steel and probably does provide some vibration damping, not a bad thing for a heavy generator hanging off the side of your engine. On the other hand, if you live in a hot, dry climate you might want to replace a rubber part with a steel one if it was practical to do so. I'd guess those bushings were custom made, but as soon as I do that someone will identify them as WWII parts manufactured when rubber was scarce
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