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Messages - Shalka04

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1
Quote
Rocketeer had some interest in the contents of a Drag Link repair kit. �This is what is included when ordering from Walcks.



There are not two sizes of end caps in this kit.

Also, I believe I know how the parts are assembled, but the drawing of the Willys parts manual 'drag link' �(above post) does not show 3 of the concave ball seats that are on the left in my photo. �It only pictures 2.

Tim

Hey Tim,
Did you ever figure out what the deal is with the 3rd concave ball seat?  I just opened up my shipment from Walck's and it looks just like your picture.

Regards,
-John

2
So i'm going to swap out my Solex piece of crap tomorrow for my recently returned & Rebuilt Carter.  :-)  Life will be good again.

Here's the issue / problem.  The Carter is slightly taller then the Solaex, and as a result my airhorn tends to rub on the underside of the hood, when the carter is installed.
If I go with a regular gasket instead of the special V shaped one to go between the carb and the manifold I will avoid further rubbing.

How critical is that special  gasket with the V built into it?

Thanks for your thoughts,

-John

3
1955CJ-5,

Thanks for the information.  I actually saved the old screws, and they look just like yours, but I also like the idea of taking the point off with a file.
Unless I hear other options I will probably follow the install steps that you mentioned.  A bit more work putting stuff in and then pulling it back out but I can see how it would be a lot more accurate then measuring off of the old radiator (have that too)
Any thought on something to keep the shroud from rubbing on the radiator?

I'm curious because the shroud used to have a piece of 1/2 inch rubber hose that bubba split and ran along the edge that contacts the radiator.

Regards,

-John

4
First let me come clean of my sins.

I installed a competition grade aluminum radiator with a competition grade electric fan.  It looked great and ran like crap when the weather got hot.
Needless to say it's all for sale now.

I just picked up a new Radiator from Walcks, and spent the first part of the week repainting my old fan shroud.  Now I've got questions.
Thoughts on some sort of felt, padding etc between the radiator and fan shroud to keep them from rubbing holes in each other.
No holes in the saide of the new radiator, I guess those are for me to make?

What's the right order to install this stuff.  mount radiator, then fan then shroud?  Or shroud on radiator, then in jeep then fan.  I figure there are ten ways to do it but one will be the easiest.

I'll post pictures tomorrow,

Thanks,
-John

5
Before I dig around and redo everything I want to make sure I understand who the thing is supposed to work.
I've got a new walks wiring harness, set up for turn signals.  it's all installed and works.

On the actual light stitch, when I pull it one notch the parking lights come one, when I pull it the second notch the parking lights go off and the head lights come on.  I'm thinking I should have parking lights and headlights at the same time, but maybe they didn't use them that way back then.

Any thoughts

6
I just noticed that my air horn is rubbing away some of the paint on the underside of the hood.
That came about because i'm not exactly happy with the way my engine has been running.  So I've begun to investigate carb rebuild kits and noticed that my carb is a WO except the model numbers if that's what you want to call them are 146-249.  Also my carb has a dull aluminum finish and not the gold look that I guess is typical.  My CJ3a is a 1953
I'm using a new air horn from Walcks and the carb to intake gasket with the metal ceter piece.

If i switch out to another carb would that address the rubbing?

-John

7
It's great weather today so I went for a 20 to 30 mile drive. �The terrain was basicly all flat with maybe a few stop signs along the way. �just me and the Jeep, not pulling anything heavy or riding the brakes.
Once I got home I walked around smelling and looking for leaks. �I discovered that the hub cover on the rear drivers side felt hot, not to hot to touch but hot enough that i'm wondering. �The hub on the passanger side was nice and cool.
I did a brake rebuilt / replacement on that axle, as well as shims etc. �I didn't pull the axle or replace the bearing, during the rebuild but I'm worried about that bearing now.

any thoughts?

-John

About 1/2 an hour after I got home I found my infrared thermometer, so even with that much cooling the drivers side hub is 99 degrees and the passanger side is 61

8
After 7 months my rig made it's maiden voyage down to get a full tank of gas.
I ended up showing the engine to two older guys during the trip, and that's when the questions started.

These old timers said i had the fuel pump in upside down on account of the bowl being on top of the fuel pump.  Adding that any car they ever had with a glass boowl had it facing down, so my set up must be wrong.

Now we all know the fuel pump is set up right and not the issue.

But for future conversation can any one provide any logic as to why the bowl is on top.

Thanks in advance,

-John

9
GMCJR, Thanks for the info and the MUCH needed photos.
I've discovered that the fitting on the Solex is infact metric, BUT that the 5/16th fitting is so close that it will work as long as it goes in with a little love and care.
In the morning i'm out to do more investigation.  Idealy I'd love to find a ??Metric to 1/4 adapter but out here in the desert hopes for that aren't high.  I'm also wondering about replacing the banjo with one that's standard thread.  I need a rigid solution regardless as i'm going to hang a Carter sediment filter right off the carb, so a barbed fitting with some hose just won't cut it.

-John

10
"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Solex Swap out
« on: December 07, 2012, 08:08:50 PM »
I just picked up a master rebuild kit for my Carter WO, so no mystery how i'll be spending my free time this winter.
However so I could keep my rig on the road I picked up a Solex carb to swap in while working on the Carter.
Who ever said they are direct swaps is a fool.
If any one has any photos on how the linkage hooks up or works out that would be appreciated.
Also any info on connecting the fuel side?
I'm worried / curious about the banjo bolt on the solex being metric or something as a 1/4 reducer only thresd in maybe two or three flights.

Any help would be appreciated.

-John

11
One of the last issues I need to address on my rig is that the speedometer isn't working.
Today about a mile from home I pulled over and removed my speedometer.  I figured I could slowly augger my way home while reaching in and feeling the end of the cable.  My assumption was if I felt the cable rotating then I would have a busted gauge.
Well no spinning cable.
So tomorrow I figure i'll disconnect the cable at the transfer case and see how the gear end looks and or feels.
I'm not sure what i'm looking for on that end though.  If it spins freely is it busted?  Of how do i diagnose that gear?

Thanks,
-John

12
Just so there's no mystery about what I did on Thanksgiving, let me show ya a picture of how I wired up my right side.
A few things that I went with that may or may not be worth considering.
1) �I ran the hot wire from the alternator to the same lug on the starter that the battery connects to. �I figured this was the cleanest and shortest path, to get the spare electrons back into the battery.
2) �I ran a #10 ground wire from the available screw hole in the alternator to the bolt on the engine block where the generator once lived.
3) �I went with a volt meter as opposed to an ampmeter just because I thought the voltmeter was a little cleaner and safer to run.

let me know if you have any questions about what I did.

-John


13
I've got 62 pounds of goodies showing up Friday and i'm not finding much in the way of on line help.
I've got all new front brake gear showing up and figured while i was in there i'd do the bearings as well
Also I've got all new brake gear for the back.

What I don't have is any on line resources that I can follow.  The service manual is a bit lame as far as any of this goes so I'm hoping for a page or two covering brakes and the such step by step.

Am I asking for something that doesn't exist?

-John

14
My project is almost there, just a few small things, AND most of the wiring harness then it will be on the road.
I can't for the life of me figure out how the strap (from Walcks) is supposed to go / face for the windshield hold down. �Any pictures on what is "Right" would be appreciated. �I've found enough Bubba efforts on the web that I'm totaly confused.


And on another subject of interest.
I couldn't stomach the the idea of paying $600 or more for a new copper based radiator, so I went with this option. �It was only $250, all aluminum construction, and supposedly is competition grade and will cool up to 750Hp, AND it was set up for a 2a, which in this case let me hard pipe the plumbing instead of going with hoses.



-John

15
So the other day, I was under my jeep putting things in place and became convinced that I had routed the Walcks Prebent fuel line in the wrong way. �So I sorked it out of the rig and took a closer look. �Now I'm not sure which end should match up with the bottom of the fuel tank. �I can almost see a route or justification for either way, WITH a little further bending or twisting.
Any clues on the right way that it should be oriented?

Thanks
-John

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