Messages

1

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Original Literature

« on: April 05, 2012, 10:38:57 AM »

Ryan - great find! Check out the footnote on the ID card. The "40M 10-50" means they printed 40,000 of them in October 1950. ...R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Running Warm

« on: June 10, 2012, 10:02:44 AM »

Gunslinger, I have two CJ2As and live in California. When temperatures are in low 90's here, I see 180� rather often and a bit higher if the engine is working a bit (long but mile grades). One of my 2As runs a bit cooler than the other, and I attribute that to (probably) more residue in the engine's water jacket. ..R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Exhaust system alignment issue?

« on: June 30, 2012, 10:20:20 AM »

I had the same problem putting on a new exhaust system in my '46 CJ2A. I had to heat and bend the pipe that leading pipe to get it to align properly. I remember checking to see if the flange was welded on square to the pipe and as well as I could tell, it was. So, not sure what the problem was but I did have to correct it. Everything from there back fit perfectly. ...R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Any tips on replacing springs ???

« on: June 30, 2012, 10:24:55 AM »

Unless you've pulled the springs already, just a reminder that the four pivot bolts (rear bolts on front springs and forward bolts on rear springs) are splined where the go into frame brackets. So, you'll want to tap them out after you remove the inner nut (nuts are all right-hand thread). And, I'd suggest you replace them and the bushings - they will most likely be badly worn. ..>R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Pitman Arm install

« on: April 20, 2012, 11:19:47 PM »

It's not really hard to find the center point. The only way to ensure that the sector shaft is equally and properly engaged at both full turn points, is to rotate the steering wheel full right, and then count the turns to full left, and then go back halfway - at that point steering wheel is centered. Then, be sure wheels are positioned straight ahead. Once that is done, you fit the Pitman arm. Doing it any other way might not give you full lock-to-lock steering.  ..R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Pitman Arm install

« on: April 19, 2012, 07:36:19 AM »

Yes, the shaft is tapered. When you remove it, try it again at another angle (even if that position is not correct, you should see if it fits differently at some other spline position). The Pitman arm should go on easily 95% of the way and then you simply tighten it in place. While I'm sure you know this, but the steering wheel should be in the center of the lock-to-lock position, and the wheels straight ahead when you fit the Pitman arm. Regardless, the Pitman arm should go on at any spline position. Lastly, check the diameter of the splines at the very end - where they meet the threaded part. It should be .825" ...R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: What spark plugs do you prefer?

« on: April 05, 2012, 10:34:31 AM »

I'd like to add to Larry's point about the distributor cap. Some of the recent aftermarket caps have bad springs and poorly fitted commutators and the commutator can get stuck up in the cap  - so it looks like all is well but the commutator is not contacting the rotor. I typically pull out the commutator (easy to do) and replace the spring with one that is a bit stiffer (spreading one end of it so it stays in the cap and compressing the other end so it stays on the commutator). ..R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Steering wheel play

« on: March 22, 2012, 11:28:38 PM »

CJJay - I know its frustrating, but as you've already heard from other posts, there are a lot of things to check, and the best way to go about it is systematically. As Tim suggests, start at the steering box and work your way down. Everything along the way can affect the freeplay; worm gear's bearings properly loaded, sector shaft and its adjustment, tightness of Pitman arm, connecting rod and its caps and springs (and everything installed facing the right way), bell crank and how well the bell crank's pin is secured to the cross member (two different styles; one is pinned in the other tightened with a bolt), and so on. Having a helper turn the wheel while you feel for freeplay is the best way. Attack it a piece at a time and I'm sure you'll find the problem or problems. ..R

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Vintage Warn Overdrive Knob

« on: March 18, 2012, 11:48:56 PM »

Mike - Don't mean to steer you to another site, but if you check out The CJ2A Page under items made by members there's a post there for someone who make the inset label and someone else who is making knobs, too.   Roger

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Steering Wheel play.

« on: March 10, 2012, 10:18:00 PM »

Tim...
I have a solution for removing all the free play from Ross steering boxes and it works great through the entire rotation of the steering wheel. It's a spring-loaded device I make that replaces the Ross adjusting screw. You can learn more about it on the CJ2A page here: http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steering-damper-for-ross-steering-boxes_topic22883.html
Hope this helps...
Roger

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Rambling, Malarky, Rants, Etc... / Re:  Member buyout of the 3A page...

« on: June 14, 2012, 11:13:00 AM »

Bill... I think it would be important to keep this site alive, and I hope you get overwhelming support from members. Yes, I would like to be part of the membership buyout. As to advertiser opportunities, on behalf of TightSteer I would consider supporting that as well once I know all the details. I hope this effort is successful.  Roger