Messages

1

Engine compartment / oil fouling plugs

« on: March 06, 2024, 12:14:14 PM »

Rebuilt 1953 F head engine. It didn't need to be bored so the cylinders were just honed with new OEM piston rings I bought from Kaiser-Willys Jeep, they were still coated in cosmoline. Engine start right up but after a minute it starts to run very rough. I can't get the oil to stop leaking out of the gasket of the intake valve cover so I assumed it might be a PCV issue but it's all new and working right. Pulled the head and there is oil on top of all the pistons and that is fouling the plugs. Before I pulled the head I did a compression check and it showed between 70-80psi. My manual only says all the pistons should be within 10% of each other which they are but I have read elsewhere that anything less than 130psi indicates excessive blow back and wore or bad pistons. I guess worn intake valve guides also be an issue but I can't see all of them being bad. Thanks

2

Engine compartment / Re: Distributor - advance

« on: December 13, 2023, 08:22:53 AM »

Absolutely Wagons Jeepsters and both Pickups as well as DJ-3A's used Vacuum Advance distributors. I have one in my CJ-2A that while it was bought as NOS still in factory packaging its OEM application would be a 1961-62 FC-150 with the 134F

Also the cars all originally had vacuum advance distributors the Willys the Henry J's the Alstates etc. Your must have gone walk about at some point.

My distributor is an IAT-4405

Now a word of caution while a vacuum advance distributor will help mileage and drivability the vacuum cans are very expensive and NOT available new anywhere. I have bought a couple off eBay but there is variation so be careful. A few places offer a rebuild service for the cans but its not cheap and you have to have a can to rebuild.

Wow, that's the best looking old Jeep engine I've ever seen.

3

Engine compartment / Re: overheating

« on: December 12, 2023, 08:38:55 AM »

Phil,
How did you confirm the thermostat was working?  I installed a brand new one in mine and it was stuck solid.  I also added the hole in the thermostat webbing that will help with trapped air (some already have it).

Running the engine without a thermostat will tell you if the pump is working.

I have tried two thermostats, one 160 degree and one 180. I checked them both by putting then in hot water to make sure they opened up and they did. I did try it without a thermostat and it still overheats just not as fast. If I rev the engine up it does cool down some but not to where the temp should be, it's still hot. I never had an overheating issue with this engine before the rebuild but the block was on an engine stand for a couple of month before I got it back together again. I thought maybe the mice got into it so I bore scoped as much as the water jacket as I could and found a couple kernels of corn they found somewhere, maybe they packed more somewhere I can't see and it's blocking the flow.

4

Engine compartment / Re: overheating

« on: December 11, 2023, 08:55:18 AM »

Have you pulled the coil wire, and pulled a heater hose-plug, or a hose, and turned the engine over, by starter only, catching the potential flow from the pump?

No but I try that today, Thanks

5

Engine compartment / overheating

« on: December 10, 2023, 05:50:03 PM »

I just finished a rebuild on my CJ-3B's engine and now it overheats. The thermostat is 160 degree and checks good. I took the radiator to the local radiator shop and they said the flow is excellent. I thought about trapped air in the system so I filled the engine block with antifreeze though the thermostat housing before I install the thermostat and then filled the radiator. When I remover the radiator cap I don't see any of the antifreeze moving. By the looks of it I would say that the water pump is bad but it's a brand new one. Has anyone had any issues with the new water pumps? This isn't the first Jeep engine I have rebuilt but I never had an overheating problem. Thanks