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Messages - letsjeep

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1
bob3b,

I am not sure if it is exactly the same winch but I installed an Koenig in an craddle a few years ago at a 3B. I did use a non stock bumper (sorry but the stock one was too narrow for street legal here in Germany...). It was a little bit tight but possible. Here ist the link:
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5357.0

Ken (Oldtime) posted a comparison of a few winches, Derek collected it and posted it at the CJ3BPage:
https://cj3b.info/Tech/WinchWars.html

Hope this helps a little bit, have fun with the Jeep and the winch!
Bernd

2
Your CJ-3B Project / Re: 1953 RESCUE and RECOVERY
« on: December 04, 2023, 11:26:36 AM »
Oldtime, good to see that you still own this 3B now called R&R. Thanks for the story about the history of the Jeep and the "new and old" pictures. I saw the "new" pictures a few days ago and the Jeep seemed familiar to me. A few months ago I browsed a little bit on the CJ3B page and now with these "old" pictures I am pretty sure I have seen this Jeep stumbling around on the 3B page. Yes, time leaves marks in things and decades later we have good memories in these old days.
I am looking forward to further reports on R&R.

Bernd

3
Your CJ-3B Project / Re: CJ3B in a Box
« on: February 27, 2023, 10:09:18 AM »
Derek, please feel free to use the pictures. If you need more/other let me know. Thanks for keeping the amazing website alive. Bernd

4
Your CJ-3B Project / Re: CJ3B in a Box
« on: February 27, 2023, 09:37:32 AM »
Hi,
rebulding the F-head I acutally run in the 3B (this engine comes from M38A1, Swiss Army - dont know the details, sorry) a few years ago I tried "both positions" (the old one and that one suggested from Ken - it is a one tooth movement regarding the gearing of cam/distributor)) for the distributor. Both are possible but using the position suggested by Ken has two advantages for ma:
1. the screw to attach the distributor is quite in the middle of the bracket which makes it easy to set the ignition to 5 deg BTC but also for another settings (if necessary). Indeed the actual engine runs better with 7 deg. BTC
2. the opening of the oil channel is better reachable for me

I do not know if this was suggested also in a technical builletin from WO.

So I went with the position suggested from Ken. I added two pictures.

Have fun and stay healthy, keep the old flatfenders running.

Bernd

5
PTO and winch are working. I used a 1 inch driveline and with no or only small load on the winch the setup is good. But at a really strong pull (like a big tree which is pulled uphill with the Jeep being anchored)  the Jeep is forced into its front springs and the driveline hits the front axle. I reduced the thickness of the driveline at this area but did not yet test if this is enough to solve the problem.
Regarding the cable I used 8.9mm thick cable with roughly 8to strength, there are 50 meters of it on the drum, the handling is a little bit tedious, a thinner one would perhaps be a better choice.
Hope you van make it work woth the new bellcrank.

6
Hi everybody,

the installation is complete, thanks Rus for the link and the good informations therein from Oldtime. I added a few pictures, perhaps someone find them useful in case adding a PTO/Koenig to the 3B. Driveline and exhaust is directed above the cross member, the exhaust is not stock. The PTO model 41 fits in the 3B but there is not much space to the body, the rubbers for the body should be quite new/good. Also it helps a lot using an Overdrive with the adapter for some distance to the clutch linkage. There is not that much space for the driveline, the homemade bracket for the bearing helps to make it work. No modifications at the clutch pedal... The winch is mounted in a cradle and positionned quite low, more or less in the bumper using plates of 12mm as distances plates between the winch and the bumper. No extensions for the bumper to the frame are used.

Greetings to all from Europe
Bernd

7
Thanks Rus,

yes, that is the post I mentioned and yes, these informations are helpful. We will build the bracket to realize this low mount position. The idea with the LH worm and gear is good, i did get in contact with a dealer for winches for LandRovers, I think he is the only one in Europe for these LH gears for Koenig winches.

Bernd

8
Hi,
actually we are adding a Koenig winch with PTO model 41 to a CJ3B. It is a little bit cramped but it is possible to route the driveline and the exhaust upper the crossmember. I think this is the case because of the exhaust which is not stock but build decades ago from stainless steel. Furthermore, the PTo is located a liitle bit to the back beause of the Overdrive and PTO-adapter. For the center bearing we used a roller bearing which is a bit bulky but it looks that it should be ok.
Now, I remember a post (I think the author was oldtime - but I am not sure...) years ago dealing with several winches, PTO, drivelines and their position. The Koenig was mounted quite low and in the bumper. We tried a few positions for the winch, if the driveline ends directly below the grill the winch has to be mounted "on top of the frame/bumper". For the low mount poisition the drive line has to end below the bellcrank of the steering. I added some pictures to get a feeling what I am talking about. I am not sure for the clearance with the axle but we did some tests with the left spring compressed until the front end is lifted from the ground - so it seems to be possible to route the drive line that low without colloision of the driveline with the front axle. Please feel free with your comments, experiences - perhaps someone remembers the also the post, can add pictures or has realized this setup.

Thansk a lot.

letsjeep

9
Engine compartment / Re: F-134; engine block; cracks
« on: December 23, 2021, 04:55:55 AM »
Thanks Oldtime for your welcome knowledge. I will keep the parts but not invest time/Money. One day or another we will find a better engine for the old Willys.
Merry christmas and a happy new year to everybody. Stay healthy.

Bernd

10
Engine compartment / F-134; engine block; cracks
« on: December 21, 2021, 05:45:28 AM »
Dear all,

actually I am working on an F134 with engine number OF 27124. I took it out of a 3B from 1954 but it seems to be not the original engine. The pistons are 0.040 os, rod bearings are 0.040 os, main bearings are 0.020 os. The exjaust valves have hardened seats, I do not think that this is stock at these engines. The block has several cracks, if I remember correct these blocks tend a little to crack at these plasces between exhaust 3 and 4. Also, the block was welded earlier. I added some pictures. At the moment I think the block is not worth the work/money with these cracks but I have no experience with the repair of cast iron blocks (like welding, lock and stitch ...) and these enginges are not that numerous here in Germany. So please feel free to express your opinion and thoughts, please share your experiences.
The 3B runs at the moment with an F134 from M38A1 from Swizerland. It is a nice little car making a lot of fun. Over the years we added Lockrights at both ends (no chance to get PowrLock here), an OD 25%, the Koenig winch with PTO is waiting to be installed - we will see if we can get the driveline from the PTO 41 to the winch... :o

Thanks for your helb  Bernd

11
Once You've Joined / Re: Welcome letsjeep
« on: October 19, 2020, 02:58:41 AM »
Thanks for the welcome.

Rus, no, the 3B is not at the CJ3B Page. That page is excellent I am visiting the site regularly. By the way-the Jeep is from 1954 and green

12
Once You've Joined / Re: Welcome letsjeep
« on: October 18, 2020, 10:32:55 AM »
Hi,
first of all I want to say many thanks to all working to keep this Community running. You are doing a great job!
I drive a 3b since 1992 here in Germany. The Jeep comes from Swiss Army and was in very bad condition and it took two years to get it back on the road. Everyone loves driving it, over the years we added lockers at both ends and actually we are thinking of a Saturn Overdrive.
Keep these lovely old Jeeps running, it is fun to drive them!

See (or read) you
letsjeep

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