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Ok,
Got another one: like many of you, I've been grateful for Brian Hainer (@metalshaper) for the information in his videos. Following his D44 rebuild, he tightens the pinion nut to 100 ft-lbs in order to test bearing pre-load.
Manual says to tighten to between 200 and 220.
Presuming I should stick with the instructions from the manual. thoughts?
-Kelley
So the solution was to get in it and drive?!
That's the type of fix I like! Keep it rolling!
I'm curious that the bearing's make noise when not engaged. The Clutch Release Bearing (throwout) shouldn't be making contact and therefore just sitting on the front shaft housing (Main Drive Gear Bearing Retainer). When you press the pedal, the bearing contacts the clutch Release Levers and begins to spin. It spins at engine speed as long as you keep the pedal pressed. Then it stops spinning when you let the pedal out and the bearing is no longer in contact with the clutch.
Do you have the clutch pedal adjusted to have 1.5" free pedal before you feel the resistance from making contact?
When you separated the transmission and engine, did you replace the pilot bushing also? Odly enough, the pilot bushing would be exact opposite of the throwout bearing; quiet when driving but possibly noisy when clutch is engaged allowing the flywheel to spin on a stationary Main Drive.
I do believe if you open the sealed throwout bearing, it will eventually fail.
As I've not been on for a while, I'm curious if you're still working this or did you resolve it?
I received the pump.
Typically, if the choke is open, there's minimal chance of flooding. Perhaps running lean. The choke doesn't restrict or increase the fuel but does restrict the air flow (which is why it's up on the top) to allow for a temporary rich mix to help with starting. If stuck closed, then there's a remote possibility to flood but more likely a rich rough idle. As I understand it, there's no effect on fuel flow, just air intake. There is more likely a possibility to flood if you keep pumping the pedal with your foot as that pumps raw gas into the intake manifold.
Not an expert on the carbs but you may free up the choke with penetrant or starter fluid. Rick will know better.
More importantly, are you going to paint the lawnmower tank to match your jeep and use it for a secondary tank on long runs?
Check the dipstick to see if the oil looks thinner or has a gas smell.
A typical problem when a diaphragm on these mechanical pumps fails is for the gas to be pumped into the oil pan.
If so, you'll need a new diaphragm and an oil change.
that oil had 5 mins of idling on it ...Best is with zero fuel in it from the tank to the carb. Second best is full of fuel. What humidity levels will it encounter?
Do you know how many mistakes I made years ago? I still make mistakes. Fortunately, like you, I learned to ask questions and read Jeep books. There's no such thing as a dumb question!
Storage protocol depends on the conditions the vehicle will be in while in storage.
Oil smells of gas—no gas in the glass filter. Unless you've dumped a pint of gas down the carb's throat in short order, I would suspect a bad fuel diaphragm. It sat for six months? I know you wrote that you run the carb to dry. You run it until the tank is empty? If so, that's a good way to let trash in the tank collect in the plastic filter, and get to the pump and mess with the valves. When was the last time you changed out the plastic filter?
As an aside, the worm-gear clamps are not good for rubber to straight-cut steel. After six months, dried out, those connections may be leaking air into the system. I recommend fuel injection clamps.
And yes, if you've verified gas in the oil, change the oil and filter immediately. Consider rebuilding the pump, also.
it sat November threw march. ok i didn't know that. ( my tank is new and very clean ) i changed the paper filter every year. in the spring as a part of maintenance. ok i will change the clamps . ok great. i thought i was doing ok.
