Messages

1

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Missing timing hole cover

« on: October 03, 2013, 09:56:35 PM »

SpikeT, if you never found the cover, PM me. I should have an extra one that I will give you for no charge...

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Fractured and missing

« on: October 03, 2013, 09:50:17 PM »

Zeke, I'll give you a housing if you cover the shipping. A small Flat Rate USPS should get the job done; I thinks it's like $5.95... I can send you pics if your interested. PM me!!

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Opening up the engine

« on: May 23, 2013, 09:43:25 AM »

The flywheel position does not matter unless you use the marks on it (through the peep-hole) for timing. (Relevant to earlier 3A's)

I wouldn't mess with the head if it isn't leaking.

If I didn't know who rebuilt the motor, I would pull the pan and valve cover to check everything; You might as well adjust your valves while it's out too. Check for any extra play on the rod bearings and your end play on the crank.

If your engine does not have the timing marks on the timing cover I would suggest doing something like this http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/diy-timing-pointer_topic12750.html as it makes timing the motor a breeze!

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: L134 rebuild? Any good engine shops in NC?

« on: May 22, 2013, 10:27:07 PM »

Where are you in NC?

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Hoisting an engine

« on: May 21, 2013, 01:20:23 PM »

I've got a piece of chain that I welded tabs on both ends and drilled them out to the head bolt/stud size. I then attach the chain to the head in the front right and left rear corners. Never used a leveler, the engine is light enough (without the trans attached) for me to maneuver it by hand. Taking the radiator out beforehand makes it much easier and leaves you with less of a chance of messing it up.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Windshield glass

« on: September 25, 2012, 08:37:05 AM »

My dad and I tried for a couple of hours with ours as well and gave up. The local guy we took it to had it done in 5 min and was able to use the new seal we had bought...

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Windshield glass

« on: August 04, 2012, 12:32:36 AM »

Mines on the outside, but that's just how I put it in. I'm almost positive the stock windshield on my 51 had it on the outside too. Not sure what the "right" way is, but I can't think of any cars that have it on the inside. Just my .02!

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Low / No Oil Pressure

« on: September 21, 2012, 10:20:17 PM »

Yank off the fan, fan belt, and the the crankshaft pulley and you should be good. No need to remove the pulley on the water pump. All and all, it should be a fairly simple process.I would take the radiator out too. This is not a necessity, but it will give you a little more room and there will be less chance of you messing it up!

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: clutch noise

« on: September 24, 2012, 09:37:49 AM »

I'm betting it's your throwout bearing, but it will not hurt to go through FBILL's list to track it down for sure. Mine first one had a little over a hundred miles on it before it started making noise. The one I have now has around 500 miles and it does it every now and then, but I've learned to live with it and minimize it. Unfortunately, from my experience and from what I've read, a lot of the aftermarket throw out bearings offered by a lot of the parts places are of fairly poor quality and it's more or less a craps shoot when you buy one. That said, making sure your clutch is propperly adjusted and that the throw out bearing is not spinning while your driving, will make them last much longer.

There is an inspection cover on the top of the bell housing that you can get to by removing the transmission cover on the body.

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Windshield Frame Measurements

« on: September 19, 2012, 09:59:41 PM »

Gunslinger, I think you're right. Heat might be a bad idea and too hard to control the bend. I figure I've only got to adjust about 1/2 to 3/4 inch anyways. I'll try the cold process this weekend using a piece of pipe and post my results.

A couple pics of the damage...

11

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Windshield Frame Measurements

« on: September 18, 2012, 10:04:31 AM »

Thanks Mark! I hadn't even thought of using a "cheater" pipe for leverage. I would imagine that is a lot easier to control than a ratchet strap like I had planned. Did you use any heat in the process, or just bend it cold?

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Windshield Frame Measurements

« on: September 18, 2012, 08:34:19 AM »

Thanks Tim! When I measured to the top of the hat channel, I got 34 9/16 on the driver side and 34 15/16 on the passenger side. With an angle gauge on the outside of the windshield, I got 64 degrees on the driver and 69 degrees on the passenger side. I can even see where the windshield meets the cowl, that I'm off about 1/2 inch there judging by the mark on the cowl where the windshield weather strip previously sat. Obviously I'm off a bit from your measurements.

I guess I'll take off the windshield this weekend and try to bend everything back, with heat, to your rough measurements and the line on the cowl where the weather strip use to sit.

Tim, is your windshield a reproduction or stock?

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Windshield Frame Measurements

« on: September 17, 2012, 06:54:01 PM »

Surprisingly the glass stayed intact. The cowl suffered a little bit of damage on the driver side as the windshield latch was pinched between the cowl and the windshield frame when it came up. The culprit was the web strap used to secure the windshield to the grill while it's in the down position. I've hauled it like that a hundred times before; yesterday was the first time it came undone. For now on I'll be using a ratchet strap I guess!

14

"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Windshield Frame Measurements

« on: September 17, 2012, 01:40:43 PM »

Long story short, my 3A's windshield stood up doing 70 down the interstate yesterday. After getting it home and assessing the damage, it's obvious that she is leaning back further than it should be. The frame bent on both sides at the bend/radius of the "L" shaped arms where it attaches to the tub.

I'm preparing to get it back into shape and was looking for some measurements to get it back in spec. I figure I need the distance from the top of the windshield frame to the center of the bolt hole on the windshield frame pivot where it attaches to the body and the angle (taken from the top of the windshield) of the windshield frame when in the upright position.

If anyone has experience with doing this, please pass along any issues you ran into and how you did it. I figure that after I get the proper measurements and angles, I can heat up the bend while using a ratchet strap attached to the top of the windshield frame and the pivot bolt hole to ratchet it back into its proper position.

Thanks in advance!!

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"Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations / Re: Carter WO Plunger and Rod Assy

« on: August 07, 2012, 10:46:55 AM »

That seems like a valid point in my eyes gunslinger, I had never thought of that. I had only ran roughly four tanks of fuel through it since the rebuild. I would hope that the water content was not that high in the fuel to have so quick messed it up. Then again, you never know with most gas stations now-a-days!!

On another note, I know in diesel systems leaving a fuel tank half empty will cause condensation to form in the fuel tank as it heats up and cools throughout the day. I would imagine this would be the same of a gasoline system as well.

I would be interested to see if anyone had looked into this possible problem before.