The CJ3A Page CJ3B.info

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - GunnersWillys

Pages: [1] 2 3 4
1
Engine compartment / Re: Engine/Exhaust Spit
« on: August 27, 2024, 12:13:16 PM »
Timewise, several years.  Mileage wise, 600 miles maybe.  They weren't off by much at all last time.  I should probably do that again, and timing. 

Noticed when listening a bit closer that I do have the spit at higher rpm's.  Not a miss.  But a spit. 

2
Engine compartment / Re: Drop Tube
« on: August 27, 2024, 12:09:18 PM »
I hadn't considered a hose.  That might work, as long as I am well sealed at where the tube mounts to the valve cover. 

It's the cutting off in deep enough water that worries me.  Doesn't take much to drown out these vehicles.  Thanks.

3
Engine compartment / Engine/Exhaust Spit
« on: August 12, 2024, 07:44:40 PM »
'58 3B.  I have a "spit" heard in the exhaust when idling.  Doesn't cause any issue, I just don't like it.  A little research suggests maybe a vacuum leak or carb gasket or exhaust leak. 

Any idea how I diagnosis this?  Thanks!

4
Engine compartment / Drop Tube
« on: August 12, 2024, 07:42:15 PM »
Question:  My '58 3B has a drop tube versus PCV, meaning it is probably not the original engine.  I offroad this Jeep, and occasionally need to do water crossings.  Nothing too extreme, but probably deep enough at times to have that tube underwater. 

Is this okay if I don't let the engine shut off?  Or can I convert the engine to a PCV or closed loop so I can ford maybe 20" of water.

Appreciate the feedback.  Thanks.

5
Engine compartment / Re: Water in the Oil
« on: August 06, 2024, 06:23:43 PM »
Okay, here you go.  Comments are welcome.  Long video, use the chapter markers. 

https://youtu.be/b5nfe-2_7Rw

6
Engine compartment / Re: Water in the Oil
« on: August 05, 2024, 06:05:28 PM »
6 months later, an update.  Finally got around to delving deeply into this.  I believe I've fixed it.  Short answer, and after consulting with Kaiser Willys: 

1)  The head bolts needed to be sealed (as suggested above).  They suggested using anti-seize. 
2)  They suggested using copper spray on the gasket.

Several weeks after installing the new gasket and following these suggestions, the issue appears to be gone. 

There is a bit more to it than that.  I have a YouTube channel and I filmed the process.  Wrapping up the edit over the next few days.  I'll drop a link here in a day or two. 

Thanks to everyone for input!

7
Engine compartment / Re: Water in the Oil
« on: January 26, 2024, 08:25:02 AM »
Well, this is Florida, and we have lots of condensation.  Unfortunately I'm missing a lot of water from the radiator at the same time the oil became water infused.  Way too much water in the oil for simple condensation. 

But you are right about it not being driven.  I just use it for Jeep events, and that is down to once a year, that's about it.  May be time for it to find a new home where it will get a little more use, after I get this figured out.


8
Engine compartment / Re: Water in the Oil
« on: January 25, 2024, 04:51:36 PM »
Steve KFL said: 

let it sit to see if "gravity alone" shows a leak to the crank area (pan under it to catch any).  If so, then it is not a "compression/vacuum forced-leak", but a "gap" or "bad seal" somewhere.[/i]


I haven't dropped the oil pan to clean it, but I also haven't been using the 3B at all.  Cranked it several time since October, and have been watching the water level and oil clarity. 

Previous start-up maybe 4 weeks ago, oil still looked pretty good, radiator was down just a bit.  Just cranked it.  Radiator is down by 2.5" and the oil is a sludgy, white, soupy mess.  Somewhere I have a gap or bad seal.

No oil in the radiator, so it's a one-way ticket, which is probably good. 

Still leaning toward the head gasket as the culprit.  Got a local guy that wants to look at it for me.  I may give him that opportunity. Current gasket is copper, been torqued 3 times, no sealant between gasket and head.

9
Okay, thanks.  KW had that same diagram on their tank web page.  I'll just follow that pattern with the felt, maybe reuse the rubber tubing I had there for chaffing.  And drill another hole or two in the floor.  One more can't hurt!

10
Greetings.  '583B owner here.

I replaced my fuel tank probably 10 years ago.  I padded underneath it with some rubber to hopefully stop a hole from rubbing in it as it is used.  That actually seems to have worked.  But recently I've had a really strong fuel smell that turned into the gas tank magically emptying.  Finally determined it was leaking, so out it came for inspection and hopefully repair.

Nope, way too much rust.  Probably about 20% of the bottom shows rust damage and bad pitting.  Not repairable, so I ordered a new one.

This really shouldn't happen, but thinking about it, when the floorboard gets wet the tank just sits in a puddle of water.  How can it not rust? 

Is there a best way to mount this thing so it dries out underneath?  I ordered the felt kit and will use that this time, unless someone has a better suggestion.  Thanks.

11
Engine compartment / Re: Water in the Oil
« on: October 31, 2023, 03:20:36 PM »
SteveKfl:

Do the spark plugs give any different "signs" of indicating a "single, or a paired-cylinder problem"?

Not actually sure what that is.  Can you elaborate?  Tks.

12
Engine compartment / Re: Water in the Oil
« on: October 29, 2023, 06:15:44 PM »
1)  As mentioned I've replaced the head gasket 3 times total.  At no time did I use sealant.  Everything I've read here indicates, that if installed properly, it is not needed.  Should I use sealant?

Each time after 500 miles or so I started to get white smoke out the tailpipe.  And each time I removed it there were visible traces of water migrating over to the pistons, thus the white smoke.  Maybe this time it is migrating to the oil ports?

Is there enough water in the head to leak down under the head gasket and lower the volume in the radiator?

Engine was rebuilt (by me) maybe 3000 miles ago.  At that time the block and head were machined.  Suspect it didn't take too well as I keep replacing gaskets. 

2) I have maybe 50-ish miles or 15-20 hours run time on it since the most recent head gasket replacement (used mostly offroad versus on road, more engine time than miles).   I did the original torque at install, then retorqued once more since the last replacement.  I did the final torque yesterday.  No movement to speak of on any of the bolts.  Torqued it cold. 

3)  No PCV system!  This is open to the air with a drop tube.  I do not take it into water over the axles, so water in the oil is not coming in through the drop tube, plus it has not seen any water crossing since this last head gasket went in.  The Willys is stored under a pole barn with the hood closed, so no real chance of a rain issue.  But water in the oil bath, well, yea, could be somewhat due to me rinsing the engine.  But moisture is definitely coming in via the breather tube between the bath and the cover for the cam on top of the engine.  That was a mayonnaise mess inside when I took it off.

4)  One more clue from this morning:  I removed the carb yesterday, and in the process broke the metal vacuum tube for the distributor advance at the carb.  So that assembly is temporarily removed, meaning there is an open port at the base of the carb.  After running it for 15 minutes or so, it was wet underneath that port.  Water, not oil or gas. 

5)  If we decide it is a cracked block, is there any kind of sealant you can put in the radiator that would actually seal that crack, and not just be snake oil?

I topped off the radiator this morning.  Will let it sit for a few days and see if my radiator volume drops and my oil level increases.

Boy it would be nice if it were just the head gasket.  Any way to firmly determine if it is a cracked block? 

Nice feedback so far.  Please continue!

13
Engine compartment / Water in the Oil
« on: October 29, 2023, 10:25:50 AM »
Ok, here it goes.  Kinda figure I know this one but could use confirmation without me offering an opinion.

'58 3B.  I've had some issues with white smoke off and on.  Replaced the head gasket 3 times over two years, third seems to have worked.  I haven't started it since June, at which time I checked fluids, gave it maybe 30 minutes run time, then put it away.  All was well.

Started it two days ago and ran it a bit in prep for some brake work, then checked fluids.  Oil was a murky mess, we all know that milkshake look.  Radiator took 3/4 of a gallon of water to top off.  Oil level was mid-stick in the sweet spot. 

I've always had some of the messy mayonnaise looking stuff under the oil cap.  The air filter bowl was almost overflowing with water/oil mix.  When you run it, steam seems to come out of the oil fill.

But, no white smoke out of the tailpipe.  Tiny bit of blue you have to struggle to see. 

I drained and replaced the oil yesterday, flushing it first with cheap clean oil and a little seafoam. 

Ran it a bit, no visible issue.

This morning the radiator was down maybe half an inch.  The oil looked ok.  Ran it for 15 minutes, oil now exhibiting some signs of water.  No longer pretty and clean. 

What happened, and what do I do next?  Thanks.

14
Engine compartment / Re: Fuel Pressure
« on: July 26, 2022, 08:27:34 AM »
Yep, used a T fitting.  And checked it at multiple RPM's.  Weird, but not a big deal.  Working fine now.

15
Engine compartment / Fuel Pressure
« on: July 25, 2022, 05:24:40 PM »
Odd question, maybe someone can enlighten me.  My 3B carb was leaking fuel, overflowing.  The thought was it might have too much fuel pressure.  Ended up just being trash in the line in the horn.

In the meantime I spliced in an inline fuel pressure gauge I'd used before.  It read zero.  Thinking it was broken I ordered a new one.  It also reads zero.  Range is zero to fifteen pounds.  Willys runs fine now so it has fuel pressure.  How do I explain no reading? 

Just curious.  Tks.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4