My Willys 3A and 3B Community
How To Join => Once You've Joined => Topic started by: MGYs on March 29, 2018, 08:37:07 PM
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Greetings,all!
I've been looking in here for awhile, as I gathered up parts to start my retirement project - a 1951 M38 I'm rebuilding as a CJ3A. Now that I'm retired it's time to get to it, so please allow me to kick off my project by introducing myself. I'm David T from Thornton, CO. I like puppies, chinese food, and long walks in th.....whoa, wrong website! ::)
I like flatfenders, altitude, and fold-down windshields. More later.
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Hi David, welcome to the 3A page. Would love to see a pic of your project. I'm in Fort Collins and Athawk (Tim) is in Arvada. And a bunch of other Colorado guys here and there. Hawky went the other way - he has a 3A that he built into a beautiful M38. And I have an M38 on a 3A frame. Go figure!
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Thanks, and let's see if I can do this.
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Welcome David.� Sounds like a fun project to watch.� Learn how to post photos and show us your progress.� Congratulations on your retirement.
As Tom mentions, we are all a lttile mixed up around here. :)
Edit: Success! I see your photo. Looks like a really nice start.
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Thanks Tim. The M38 body went to Larry in Windsor, CO. I have a replacement CJ3A tub in the garage. I've got the frame boxed and suspension hung, and I'm swapping out the drums for discs. Next up is the steering kit from Herm the Overdrive Guy, and a 4.3 W-code/4L60E with a Novak adapter.
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Nice looking project. I have a M38 with a 4.3 and the Novak kit. What gear box are you using ?
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Thanks, MikeB. I'll probably want to be PMing you to bounce my ideas about the swap. Hope that's OK. I want to do a 4L60E automatic tranny with the Novak and the stock Spicer T-case. Novak says a TH350 is the only "practical" choice for the short wheelbase early CJs. Overall length of the 4L60E combo w/adapter is only 2" more than the TH350 w/adapter. I'll get the group opinion when I'm ready to weld the motor mounts on. Until then, lots of other things to do!
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Well my M38 started out blue when I first got it also. I�m running the 4.3 with the TBI, w series and a sm465 gearbox and D300 t-case. All fits nicely under the stock frame and body, you will need to put at least a 3/4� body lift to clear the motor, and go with a electric slimline fan as the mechanical fan on the motor sticks out to far, unless you want to move your grill forward a few inches, but that involves more work that it sounds. With the whole motor tranny combo stock axle shafts will be too long so you�re going to need to source others, either custom or from a doner vehicle.
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Well my M38 started out blue when I first got it also. I�m running the 4.3 with the TBI, w series
Hmmm. I was under the impression that W code engines had multi-port injection, thus a distinctive engine code. I'll have to research that a little bit deeper
With the whole motor tranny combo stock axle shafts will be too long.
Not trying to nitpick, I just want to have a thorough understanding of the project I'm undertaking - did you by any chance mean the stock driveshafts?
Your info is extremely valuable to me, Mike B, please don't take offense. Thanks
David T
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My humble apologies I missed typed axle shafts when I ment drive shafts.
As for the W code motor (block code), I believe they came in TBI and direct port, depending on the year, but I could be wrong. you get a little more clearance with the TBI as the throttle body is raised on the direct port 4.3, you can squeeze in a cut down air plenum with a TBI and not have to use a bigger body lift or cut the hood and add a scoop, to clear the taller direct port intake. Although a extra inch of clearance would be nice on my set up as getting to the ICM and dizzy is a PITA as it is.
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SWEE-EE-EET!
Is that the stock radiator in yours? I just cut the battery tray from the frame yesterday, thinking that I couldn't possibly get the motor in.
Any way you slice it, that's a nice look on yours, MikeB!
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The 4.3 fits nicely under the hood, the fact we can take the grill and fenders off makes the install much easier, plenty of room for the battery tray.� Here is a pick of test fitting the motor.
Yes it is the original radiator, had it re-cored, haven�t had a issue with over heating.
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That's the first real perspective I've gotten on fitment of the 4.3, thanks. And you are correct, the first W (and Z) code motors were TBIs, in 96 they went to the spiders.
I sawzalled the battery tray welds right up against the frame after punching out the rivets of the right motor mount, so I can finish detaching it from the mount and weld the tray back in if I so desire - and I probably will after seeing yours!
I'm going with a dual reservoir master cylinder conversion kit, no vacuum assist for the discs, and a Ross power reverse steering kit, donor Ford Ranger over a Saginaw box. I should have pictures by the end of the week.
Thanks for the pics, MikeB!
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Welcome Aboard!
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MGY, are you sure that is an M38? I only ask as I don't see a fuel tank opening in the driver side. Could it be you have an MB or GPW??? Or maybe a PO just decided to relocate the tank?
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MGYs
Just had to share a gem with you about the 4.3 in a cj3/M38.
The dizzy is at the rear of the motor and under the lip of the cowel, once you have the body on you do not have the clearance to replace the dizzy if needed, it won�t pull straight up with out hitting the cowel lip, found this out the hard way.
I need to replace a $20 pickup coil in the dizzy, but that requires removing the shaft and dizzy housing, so to replace it I have to pull the body of the frame to get the clearance I need to do it .
So rebuild your dizzy with quality parts before setting your engine in place. Or a simple 1 hour job can turn into a multi day fiasco.
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WOW! Been awhile since I've been on here! Thanks, Mike
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Ouch, sorry I missed this question, I will have to spend some time on this site familiarizing as I plan to get back up to speed.
1. A previous owner had put a tank in the rear of the interior with the filler neck jutting out the rear of the "tailgate". Very sketchy!
2. The previous title and now the current title have the MC prefix on the VIN number.
3. The frame has all of the MC hallmarks, i.e. M stampings on the battery tray and forward gussets, bolted on pedal mount and grill mounts. The sad part is that someone replaced the rear floater with a CJ Dana 44 limited slip.
Again, my sincere apologies. Does better late than never still apply when it's more than 4 years late? ::)