My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your DJ-3A Project => Topic started by: 48willys on November 11, 2024, 11:27:06 PM
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I picked up this 1957 DJ recently. The important DJ stuff is still there, side shift T96, column shifter and the 2wd axles. The windshield and doors came with it but the top and sides are missing. Fortunately I have two tops to hopefully build one good one .
Unfortunately the engine has a bad cylinder that looks like a broken ring, I have a generator engine that probably will be a decent runner so everything is getting swapped to that block.
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Everything is switched over and bolted together, hopefully I can get it in the Jeep and get it running soon.
The transmission doesn’t look to bad, just a lot of grinding done on 1st gear and reverse.
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Yea, another DJ being rescued. Have fun.
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Saw an image of the top you were referencing on the 2A forum. Hopefully, the sliding doors will be functional!
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Saw an image of the top you were referencing on the 2A forum. Hopefully, the sliding doors will be functional!
That’s what I’m hoping for. I have three sets of the sliding doors, so I’m hoping there’s enough parts between them to make a decent matching set.
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Engine is back in. Interestingly the clutch bellcrank is backwards from a cj , if it isn't something Willys did specifically for the DJs, I would have to guess someone put one from an FC in it.To make it work with the cable on hand I swapped it for a CJ bellcrank and made a new shorter clutch rod with clevises. In the end the clutch works and feels pretty good.
I had to drill holes further back on the t90 mounting plate and move the transmission mount for it to line up. I may need to order the correct mount later but this should work for now .
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Got it to start today. It sounded pretty good, I didn’t notice any oil smoke beside the assembly lube and it looked like 40lb of oil pressure at idle. I need to run it longer to evaluate it better, but I’m hopeful it’s going to be a decent runner.
I haven’t been able to find the correct radiator locally so I’m going to see if I can add the side tabs to one of these rough cj2a radiators I have so I can run it longer and make some adjustments.
https://youtu.be/egYM5vj9_gw?si=EAkf5HSbaC2tkg03
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Got it to start today. It sounded pretty good, I didn’t notice any oil smoke beside the assembly lube and it looked like 40lb of oil pressure at idle. I need to run it longer to evaluate it better, but I’m hopeful it’s going to be a decent runner.
I haven’t been able to find the correct radiator locally so I’m going to see if I can add the side tabs to one of these rough cj2a radiators I have so I can run it longer and make some adjustments.
https://youtu.be/egYM5vj9_gw?si=EAkf5HSbaC2tkg03
Nice!
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Refreshed a generator for it. It needed a good cleaning, a mounting ear repair and few other little things. I mounted it to the engine and polarized the generator, a quick test with a drill confirmed that its putting out power. Amazingly the Amp light in the gauge still works.
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Making some progress. Patched together a cj2a radiator and added some mounts to the sides, though it isn’t pretty it does hold water and I can run it for extended time.
I’ve been spending a lot of time with the carb. After putting a kit in it, it wouldn’t run right unless choked and gas would run out of the bottom of the carb. I had it apart too many times to count, adjusted the float, swapped the float, put a new needle and seat in it, recleaned every passage and every time I had the same results. Finally cleaned and swapped another body to it and all the problems went away, now it runs great!
https://youtube.com/shorts/M51nYSZ2Zc0?si=EoBxJOg7wF0Fvipz (https://youtube.com/shorts/M51nYSZ2Zc0?si=EoBxJOg7wF0Fvipz)
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Making some progress. Patched together a cj2a radiator and added some mounts to the sides, though it isn’t pretty it does hold water and I can run it for extended time.
I’ve been spending a lot of time with the carb. After putting a kit in it, it wouldn’t run right unless choked and gas would run out of the bottom of the carb. I had it apart too many times to count, adjusted the float, swapped the float, put a new needle and seat in it, recleaned every passage and every time I had the same results. Finally cleaned and swapped another body to it and all the problems went away, now it runs great!
https://youtube.com/shorts/M51nYSZ2Zc0?si=EoBxJOg7wF0Fvipz
Nice work!
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Did you retain the DJ's Vacuum advance distributor? did you retain the draft tube rather then opt for a PCV system?
I have a 58-59 DJ engine in my 2A
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Did you retain the DJ's Vacuum advance distributor? did you retain the draft tube rather then opt for a PCV system?
I have a 58-59 DJ engine in my 2A
Yeah I put the vacuum advance distributor back on it. It seems to work because it moves with vacuum change, I haven’t really done much to it but the engine runs pretty well with it.
This engine had a PCV on it so I put it back together with one. I have a draft tube I could put on it to make it correct, but from my understanding the PCV is a better system so I’ll probably stick with it.
I’m also going to add a oil filter even though they were supposedly optional , so even though I’m trying to stick to mostly original some things in my mind are worth deviating from especially if it may extend the life of the engine.
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I tried building an air cleaner for it . It didn't come out as nice as I had hoped, my metal working skills aren't quite there yet. But it does filter the air and it fits under the hood, so it should work for now.
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It’s together enough now to drive a little, So I took it out in the pasture and did a few laps. It’s running pretty good, just a little stumble off idle but I haven’t really timed it or did much tuning. Some correct plug wires and give the distributor some attention it’ll probably fix the issue.
https://youtu.be/Gc10xOrofaA?si=sssXEKh-abJG1759 (https://youtu.be/Gc10xOrofaA?si=sssXEKh-abJG1759)
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Congrats! That's a fancy "box-spring" seat you've got there. :-) I loved hearing the purr of your ride. Thanks for sharing! Happy Holidays!
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Pulled the fuel tank out today and other than a couple large dents its pretty good condition. If there aren't any holes, I think a good cleaning and pop some of the dents out it should be fine.
I don't know why someone welded a jack mount on the back, but they should be proud of their welds. It took a lot of grinding to get it off without damaging the rear cross member.
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You will find that if the Vacuum can is working the jeep will drive much better with a vacuum advance distributor. Sadly new vacuum cans are either very expensive or near impossible to find. I run an IAT-4405 Vacuum advance dizzy on my 2A.
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Yeah, fortunately the can seems to be working. Being set up more like a car it will be interesting to see how it drives compared to the cj2a. This Distributor is a IGW-4185. I haven’t really done much with it except clean the points, but one thing that concerns me is when running the top of the distributor looks like it wobbles, almost like the shaft could be bent.
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Could be worn shaft bushings. A common problem or the wrong cap for the distributor.
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Could be worn shaft bushings. A common problem or the wrong cap for the distributor.
It could be the bushings or the cap. A distributor rebuild is in the list of things needing to be done, I’ll check the shaft and everything while it’s apart. The engine wasn’t installed in the Jeep and the carb was snapped off, so I’m guessing a damaged distributor isn’t out of the question.
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My neighbor had some wagon seats he gave me. I think if I shorten the backs a little they will look stock.
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Some progress on body work.
I also took these sliders off the parts tub, they line up with the holes in the floor so I'm pretty sure they're correct for this hard top model.
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Interesting. The first I have heard of "sliders" being used, but helpful for multiple drivers of various heights. My '62 DJ3A, not a "hardtop model", did not have "sliders".
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Interesting. The first I have heard of "sliders" being used, but helpful for multiple drivers of various heights. My '62 DJ3A, not a "hardtop model", did not have "sliders".
I think it was a something they did for the Hardtop model, because every photo I find of the other DJ models the seats have little feet that rest directly on the floor. I have a couple period photos saved of the hardtop jeeps that you can see the slider and release arm.
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Almost done with the passenger floor. Fortunately this junk tub has some good bits to cut out, the doorway braces are solid halfway up so I'm able to graft them into my tub.
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Basically finished with the driver's side,only one small part on the outside that needs to be attached for the door slide/ sill plate. It will probably need a little body filler to smooth out the welds in the sides, but otherwise I'm pretty happy with how nice it looks.
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It is shaping up nicelt. "YOUR HAPPINESS" is most important. I'm glad to see another DJ being "saved and enjoyed". Thanks for sharing your efforts and results.
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Thanks for the kind words.
I found a nice high quality period photo that shows the seat sliders in use. I’m not sure if it was something Willys did custom or if it was something added later into production, but the parts list doesn’t list any. It also shows the Dispatcher decal fairly well too.
I’m not sure if the photo is copyrighted so I’ll just leave a link to the Library website where it is.
https://aadl.org/taxonomy/term/39134?page=1 (https://aadl.org/taxonomy/term/39134?page=1)
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Not only does the slider add adjustment for different driver heights, but it looks like the installation of them tilts the seat back to allow "sitting IN the seat" as opposed to "sitting on a bench", for better driver comfort and control.
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I've started digging out the rust in the passenger corner. Looks like I'll have to make a new rear panel and a patch for the corner.
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Progress on the corner. Tried my sheet metal shrinker and stretcher on the corner/ wheel arch and got some nice results. Hopefully a few more hours and this side will be done.
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Wow! That looks nice!
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Just about done with the corner. I almost left the spare tire brace out, but at the last minute decided to make one and weld it in. Its highly unlikely I'll ever use it, but it seemed ridiculous to be in this deep and not put it back right.
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Thought I'd take a break from body work and work on the seats.
The seat adjusters cleaned up pretty good, they needed new rollers but otherwise the rust was minimal.
I think these frames are quite a bit different than the originals, the width was about 2 inches wider and the back angle and hight is probably going to need adjustment.
I'm only going off pictures I've found and just kinda eyeing the whole thing, so the whole process is a little slow.
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I may be wrong since I don't have a DJ with sliding doors, but those rear wheel wells look "modified" and "flattened vertically" on the front edge to give more rearward sitting capability. I had to modify my Dispatcher to accommodate my 6'4" height. If... "you" need or want more leg room, it looks like you could position your seat-frame further back on the seat-sliders to give you maximum leg room... IF... that is needed for "you"? Maybe the factory modified the "hardtop models" for "easier entry and adjustable driver positions". Does anyone with "Hard Top model" experience have any clues or thoughts about this? Thanks! Always something "new" to learn about these Willys... especially the rarer Djs.
Pics attached are of my Dispatcher original wells for comparison.
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Thanks, yeah the wheel wells seem to be exclusively modified for the sliding door models. The junk body I have also has the same modification so I’m confident it’s a factory done.
I’m definitely going to get them as far back as I can and I need to get the frame lower on the adjusters, I’m 5‘6 and it felt a little tight with 3“ of padding on the frame. I’m sure the column being an inch shorter than my cj2a is a contributing factor to the lack of room. I think originally the seat frame must have only had maybe 4 degrees of backwards tilt on the base and something like 70 degrees on the back.
Unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be many people with one of these models still in its original configuration that I can ask for measurements.
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Been working on these seats for way to long. In my mind it looked easy but I've basically cut these wagon seats completely apart and put them back together. So the driver's seat was 2 inches to wide, the back was 3 inches to tall, the back angle needed adjustment and the mounting brackets had to be reworked. The passenger seat has really been a challenge because it needed 3-3/4" added, a new hinge and feet , and because the back tubes were rusted through, a new back.
I think its finally getting close though, just a few things to finish on the passenger seat and it should be done.
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Some more holes filled in. Fortunately I was able to salvage a brace from a cj2a fender to replace the rusted one.
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Also picked up an spare axle and rims.
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Nice score! Rims look in great shape. I wonder if the ratio is the 4.56:1 or the "rare" 4.10:1? Hopefully those very hard to find drums are in great shape as well.
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Nice score! Rims look in great shape. I wonder if the ratio is the 4.56:1 or the "rare" 4.10:1? Hopefully those very hard to find drums are in great shape as well.
The tag says it’s a 4.56 but that’s probably what is under the DJ anyway(tag is gone). This axle is a Dana 27 and the one under the DJ is a Dana 23, but from what I understand the drums and axle shafts should interchange. Fortunately the drums/hubs and the axle shafts look to be in good condition, I grabbed it up because one hub had been run loose and wobbled out the axle and hub so it was pretty fortunate to find one locally.
The rims were a nice added bonus, they’re a little different design than what’s on the DJ but still the same size so if I want a spare it’ll work out nice.
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More body work done. Almost done with the back, just need to make a new body mount and install it.
Also took one top apart to evaluate how many good parts there are, lots of rust so its definitely going to be a challenge.
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It is shaping up nicely and showing your efforts. Good Job!
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I’ve gotten enough done on the body tub that I want to fit the top now, just in case something needs to be reworked or adjusted.
There’s lots of work to be done, so far most of the holes do not line up with body and I’m expecting few of the holes will match when I mount the fiberglass top. It’s almost like Willys set the top on the Jeep and then drilled the holes wherever they needed them, out of two tops few parts have the holes drilled in the same places.
Most of the individual parts have rust and damage, so I’m having to cut parts out and make repairs.
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Finished the side panels. Had to graft parts of the rail from the other top into it and swap the uncut panels to the rebuilt frame, but all the rust has been fixed and we can move onto the next component
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It's taking shape quickly. How's that outside side mounted spare location going to work with sliding doors? Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing your progress.
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It's taking shape quickly. How's that outside side mounted spare location going to work with sliding doors? Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing your progress.
Thanks. Yeah the outside spare doesn’t work with the sliding doors. Supposedly Willy’s didn’t offer a spare tire for this version of the Dispatcher, so they just filled the holes with bolts. Putting all the supports and holes back in it doesn’t really do anything, I just wanted it to be as close to right as I can get it.
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Here's one pic of where someone decided to keep their spare. I at some point saw one spare mounted on the roof outside saving the cargo area space for usage, but no pic of that. I've never understood why the spare is on the passenger side blocking view more than it would behind the driver on the left, already a blind spot. Maybe to put extra weight over the rear tire, or towards the curb's side when changing a tire? I don't know. Maybe the "inside view" will give you some "insight" towards the top's finished look too. Maybe you'll enjoy the other pics of a brochure I have too!
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That’s good idea for a spare, may try doing something like that in the future.
The brochure is cool, I need to get one like that to display with the jeep if I take it to shows.
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Time to fit the fiberglass. Its going to be an learning experience, I've never worked on fiberglass before so I'm learning as I go. Washed it really good with dish soap and a scrubber pad, I guess pressure washing fiberglass isn't to good for it especially when the gloss coat is basically gone.Still a few spots with pine tar stuck to it that will need more cleaning but its a good start. The inside looks good, just need to clean that paint off.
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Passenger seat is done. Wasn't sure how the originals were made, so went with a wooden block for the rest, it also keeps the seat centered between the driver's seat and fender.
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Looking more complete tonight. Bolted the fiberglass down and finished the rear corners.
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I have to admit I haven't spent much time focused on the Hardtop model before. That said I was surprised to see yours with the back top's corner sticking out beyond the body. So I checked my pic collections and found three factory examples verifying your accuracy. I attached those pics here for your review. Thanks for sharing your progress.
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Yeah the rear corners are different from most hard tops, the skin hooks on the rear door frame and is pulled around and bolted to the side. I don’t really know why they decided to do that, maybe so the corner can be removed for repairs without disassembly of the top or it could be a way to compensate for body variations.
Thanks for sharing those.
I found one of those advertisements with the blue jeep, made a photo copy to display with the jeep if I take it to a show.
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Progress has slowed down since the weather has improved. But I'm still getting a little time to pick at it. Finished bending and cutting out the door threshold plates. The tracks are slowly getting straightened out in the shop press and hopefully will get welded back to the top soon.
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Progress has slowed for the summer, but I did find a nice set of fenders and a correct tailgate.
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Nice score. I love the swing down tag assembly. It's going well for you. Thanks for sharing your progress.
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The doors are going to be a big job. I have the driver's door stripped to the frame and I think the first thing to do is get it to slide without binding. The first thing I've noticed with all these doors is the captured nut for the top rollers are always twisted/ mutilated and the rollers aren't parallel with the door frame, causing the the rollers to bind in the track. It may be a little overkill but this is what I came up with, it will get welded in from both sides and hopefully prevent the step bolts from coming out of square with the door frame.
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So that grooved part at the top of the bolt is the roller? I presume the track or roller has to be lubricated somehow.
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Yeah that’s the roller, Willys didn’t really provide a convenient way to lube the roller but I’m thinking something like dry Graphit lube would work without making to much of a mess.
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The driver door is coming together, looking more complete with a new skin.
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Yeah that’s the roller, Willys didn’t really provide a convenient way to lube the roller but I’m thinking something like dry Graphit lube would work without making to much of a mess.
I've really gravitated towards white lithium as it stays put and will help waterproof. I would suspect it would only be messy if inadvertently, your fingers would come in contact with the parts.
Enjoy watching your fabricating skills!
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The door latch has been a decent project all by itself. Being that these are impossible to find new. I had to completely disassemble it to build up the pivot holes , reshape them and straighten the housing.
The original coating was completely gone so I went with a zinc plating on all the parts. The passenger side will have to wait until another day.
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I've been gone awhile and just read through your entire post. I love the DJ3A and think you are doing a super job in restoring yours. Your configuration with that top are among my favorites of all Jeeps. Keep up the great work.
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Drivers side window works again.
Tried something different for the window tracks, instead of buying new window channels/felt. I got some self adhesive felt, cleaned/painted the channels and installed the felt. Hopefully it continues to work well, the beaded window channels used on these are difficult and expensive to source.
The handle is all guess work, the only photos that show them are all fuzzy and only show the outside. I made these from an old piece of stainless, they fit tight enough to stay on pretty well but the plan is to put a little glue on them when installed on the new glass.
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Wow! Nice work. I know the fabrication route too.
If I understand what I'm seeing, the window is raised with the handle at the top of the glass? Is there a spring assist to help?
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Yeah the handle is used to raise and lower the window. The “lift” as Willys called it, essentially works as a spring balance , a little like a garage door .
It’s a odd choice for a vehicle but Willys found a solution for the windows opening on their own, they added a little wire stop on the inner panel you can turn to lock the window in the up position 8) .
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Working on the passenger door now.
Made and welded in some reinforcements for the roller bolts, replaced the bottom of the frame, made lots of adjustments and started making a new skin. Lots to still do but its looking like a door again.
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Put the skin on and got some primer on it.
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Good progress! It's coming together nicely.
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Project is looking great. Thanks for posting!
Derek
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A little more progress on the passenger door. The window regulator, door latch and inner panel are repaired and installed. I think I'm finally past the worst of the front doors and can move on to the rear gate now.
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Great looking work and updates with pics. Quite the craftsman. Question: Is the window all or nothing with opening, or is there other methods of control besides the hook? Thanks
SteveK
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The way the regulators work is a little like a garage door, a spring balance. So even though the window will stay in any position while the vehicle is stopped, I have a feeling when driving it will creep open or closed depending on what position its closest to.
With the correct window felt it may have had enough friction to stay when new, but the felt I used is loose and let’s the glass float in the track so that could be part of the issue.
There’s no service information about this type of window regulator that I can find, so there’s some guessing going on ;D
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Your guesswork and rehabilitation techniques are "my education". Thanks!
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Finished up the back hatch repairs.
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This is shaping up to look a lot like a museum exhibit!
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Decided to change things up and rebuild the heater.
The core pressure tested ok but needed a new bracket soldered on.
Sandblasted the whole thing and painted it,replaced the motor with a new 6v motor, and added some mouse proofing.
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Worked on the cowl today, rust had gotten behind the bracket and there was some rust holes. Cut the area out, cleaned the rust out and made up some patches. Originally it wasn't welded at the seam like cj2a bodies, but I decided to weld it up to keep water from getting in there again. Still have the driver side to do.