My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your CJ-3B Project => Topic started by: Shark49 on November 13, 2022, 08:34:56 PM
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I just bought this 63 CJ3B and the dash had what looks like some kind of trim piece around the speedometer. Anyone have any idea what it is and where to get it?
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That is not original. I suspect that is something someone added to hold a different type gauge cluster/speedometer at one time. The cluster you have is a reproduction VDO unit, easily identified by the "0 - 90" rather than the "0-9" as on the original and the backwards reading temp and fuel gauges.
(http://www.cj3b.info/Photos/Dispatcher/DJ3ASpeedometer/1962PartsListSpeedo_400.jpg)
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I figured as much. I was hoping it was some kind of aftermarket thing. Im going to cut a piece of steel and crinkle finish it.
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Since you already have so many extra holes to close up, I'd just MIG weld these holes and return the dash to the original look.
(http://www.cj3b.info/Photos/Dating/Charnok63Dash.jpg)
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So the wiper is on the bottom? I thought they were on the top of the windshield. I have two sets of holes on the top of mine that look factory. Guess I am wrong
I was actually thinking about adding a marine radio and speaker.
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For one-piece windshields, the wiper motor was on the bottom (driver standard, passenger side motor was an option). Two-piece swing-out windshield had wipers mounted at the top. I think the military version of the CJ3B, the M606, also had the wiper motors at the top of the glass, on both the one and two-piece frames.
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Here is a photo. Not sure what these holes are for but look factory. Also, the wiper motor is on a block of wood so it it wrong model or is there some kind of spacer needed? Looks like the wrong wiper arm is on there too.
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Few more questions. I went to put on radiator hoses and realized its not original radiator. Is this for a cj2a? Also, did a search and got too many answers but what gates deep groove belt is recommended?
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There is a bracket on driver side rear of engine that appears to be some kind of throttle linkage but not sure what it is.
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Something strange looking about that windshield, looks like it might have had the two-piece swing-out kit at one time.
Fan belts are available from most suppliers, I have been very happy with Walck's service: https://walcks4wd.com/Fan-Belt-L-F-Head-4-Cylinder-Large-Groove-Belt-_p_746.html (https://walcks4wd.com/Fan-Belt-L-F-Head-4-Cylinder-Large-Groove-Belt-_p_746.html)
Yes, that is the throttle linkage, but you are missing several parts
(https://www.willysjeepparts.com/gallery2/d/16258-3/Fuel%20Accelerator.jpg)
For sure, that's not a CJ3B radiator. Almost looks like an M38 radiator. Here's what you should have: (http://www.cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/FanShroud/NorisRadTop.jpg)
I am going to suggest that you go to the CJ3B page and spend some time looking at photos, reading the Specs and Tech Tips section and doing some research, most of the questions you are asking can be answered there :http://www.cj3b.info/ (http://www.cj3b.info/)
You also need the Service Manual, you really can't do much without it.(https://walcks4wd.com/assets/images/thumbnails/rm-1_1_1_thumbnail.jpg)k
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Walcks takes too long to ship. I wasn't quite clear as I have an alternator and the gates 22425 I use on my CJ3A seems too tight so was wondering what folks are using since its an F-Head but I can go to local auto parts store. That linkage is already connected that's in that diagram. There's a second one behind it that not sure what it is so was trying to figure it out and photos don't seem to show it.
Yes I have that manual.
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OK, that looks like the throttle linkage that is used on the L-134 engine, it bolts to the back of the block, don't know why it is on your engine.
(https://www.armyjeepparts.com/images/Product/medium/301.jpg)
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Agree with Chuck.
That w/s frame looks like it may have been a two-piece at one point. Those holes you show are where the hinge attaches (with a few extra added along the way). The wipers would actually attach onto the inner frame that swings out. Those brackets next to your wooden block mounted wiper motor is another clue (lower fastening clip for inner frame).
https://cj3b.info/Owners/WadeDetails.html
https://cj3b.info/Tech/Wipers.html
The wiper would be on the bottom on a one-piece w/s. Your block of wood is where the spacer would be. It allows the motor to sit back further to keep the shaft from sticking out too far. Click on embeded links in above reference to see example.
On the radiator, you may be able to make yours work but that gap needs to be closed to funnel air through the radiator. From Charlies photo you can see the differences with the shroud. More ideas:
https://cj3b.info/Tech/RadShroud.html
That rear block mounted linkage shouldn't be there. However, there should be a simple bracket to hold your head oil supply line OFF OF THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. From the Engine page on the Tech Section of 3B Page:
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/HurricaneSideGrayscale.JPG)
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Parts/EngineFig77.JPG)
Another source of parts is Harry Sheets, http://www.midwestwillys.com/
I would think all the fan belts are the same dimension. I don't remember differences in the pulleys. That said, your alternator would have to have a large groove pulley to accommodate the standard fan belt. Back to the Engine section on the 3B Page (lists the fan belt number):
https://cj3b.info/Hurricane.html
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Very helpful! That windshield is pretty cool. I wonder how I can do the same. Is there a source for the wiper motor spacer? I also see I have the wrong fuel pump so ill get that as well. Funny thing, the radiator in my CJ3A appears to be the CJ3B style so I think ill switch them! The PO cut the hood bracing in the CJ3A to accommodate the larger radiator lol.
Im pulling the whole body off and sand blasting and painting it since its in such amazing shape. Will only need minimal repairs.
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I did a search on here and the internet but not much luck in finding 15x7 steel wheels. I have three on there now and a forth will work but too rough for my taste. I want the wider track. Anyone have a source they can share?
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On your first post, showing an image of the driver's side, are you referring to the white spoke wheel on the front or the black, solid disk style on the rear? I did a quick search for jeep wheels on the net, and had too many options to filter through.
On a couple of posts back, I mention Harry Sheets of Midwest Willys. I've gotten some used parts from him in the past (both in person and at the Reunions). Talk with him to see if he can help with your missing parts.
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I did a search on here and the internet but not much luck in finding 15x7 steel wheels. I have three on there now and a forth will work but too rough for my taste. I want the wider track. Anyone have a source they can share?
I have two sets of 15”X7” wheels that I could sell. One set is a set of actual Jeep wheels, resembling the “Wagon Wheel” style as on the front in your picture, but these are factory wheels with center caps. The other set are what were once called “modular” wheels, chrome plated. If interested, I can send you some pictures.
BW
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Run the solid style. I have 3 15x7 on it and a fourth the PO had but its pretty rough. Seems impossible to find on the internet. I found Wheel Vintages and US Wheel so hopefully they are able to supply. Otherwise Ill go to a totally different wheel I guess.
Thanks Bruce but not what Im looking for sir.
Im wanting a little bit wider track so I can put a more modern mudder on it.
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After looking over the CJ3B.info page I realized that my CJ3B had the drivers seat frame that attached to the side lip of the tub. Does anyone have a lead on this frame? Can anyone provide a good photo of what it looks like? I see there is a M38/CJ5 frame that looks like it could work but not sure. Also, it has the pivot brackets that are about 3-4" back from the front of the tool box. Does the standard CJ3A/B passenger seat frame work?
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Does anyone know what the three holes are for on the left side of the dash? They look factory. I found a diagram for the Universal Jeep dash but it doesn't give me info on numbers. I can fill at least one with a light switch for fogs. Also, what is the 2-1/2" cover plate for NW of steering column?
thanks,
Nate
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After looking over the CJ3B.info page I realized that my CJ3B had the drivers seat frame that attached to the side lip of the tub. Does anyone have a lead on this frame? Can anyone provide a good photo of what it looks like? I see there is a M38/CJ5 frame that looks like it could work but not sure. Also, it has the pivot brackets that are about 3-4" back from the front of the tool box. Does the standard CJ3A/B passenger seat frame work?
Nate,
Using the 3B Page is a great first step. Lots of documentation with pictures!
https://cj3b.info/Seat.html
Using the images there, you can see how the front legs fasten, including the shorter front legs on the passenger seat (early seats will have legs too long). If you've got the fabrication skills, it is possible to modify any seat to get it to fit - whether you start with an early style seat or an aftermarket seat. You may want to see if you can track down a pair of original seats first. Harry Sheets is a good start: http://www.midwestwillys.com/
I've also called and visited a few salvage yards using this list:
https://www.public.asu.edu/~grover/willys/parts.html
Don't bypass Garcia's list linked at the bottom. Both are dated and, like me, you will find some locations are no longer in business. Phone calls are cheap. You may find some that could be close enough to visit in person.
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Does anyone know what the three holes are for on the left side of the dash? They look factory. I found a diagram for the Universal Jeep dash but it doesn't give me info on numbers. I can fill at least one with a light switch for fogs. Also, what is the 2-1/2" cover plate for NW of steering column?
thanks,
Nate
I found that image on a VIASA website (it appears to be the same address imposed over the image):
http://www.mb-cj3b.com/home_en/other_mb-cj3bs
I've taken a quick look at a couple of VIASA's and can't definitively say all have those holes. That may be an image of a specific year group of that model where it may have changed (like the differences of the early and late instrument panel on the 3B). One image I saw had the light switch and a couple of toggles and one other (possibly a push or turn knob). See below:
https://bec7318a-a-62cb3a1a-s-sites.googlegroups.com/site/mbcj3bwillysviasa/Home/otrosmb-cj3b/0104_Dashboard.jpg?attachauth=ANoY7cqd7Gu1oiEfm3ZmOlxiU3zw0k30hmPrPSFJhCAp1jM7zaL-N5Fc0gN6CkCHwN0iSLRf5vvLA_BAg1n3HvZIPGZO2QoDGltu96ORfp4cKEAW1jEJOnOmqr9G-mrb7iMyvMpzohhCSWEw80VmYh9QakeXRZeMN6nm1MHbAdb8ip2wwFVjll_zkm9sh1teTdHHUUC3hA15x1MfBsr6KsXzxxbol32T2ltkZ7x3OG0zM_7IipgAWqw6o7eC3Hr3kk13gwiaCmCs&attredirects=0
(Notice where the hand brake handle is!)
I had an extra hole on that side when I acquired my jeep ('77). It looked factory but wasn't. I used it for a while as a horn button until I got the steering wheel button fixed. For a while I thought of keeping it, but it no longer exists.
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Also, what is the 2-1/2" cover plate for NW of steering column?
Defroster hose from fresh air heater.
(http://www.cj3b.info/Photos/Owners/Charnok/CharnokInterior.JPG)
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cool thanks Chuck and Rus! Onward and upward!
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Took the body off and this is what was on the back of the engine. Not sure why it was on there too.
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Am I correct in guessing that this is a CJ2A radiator?
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Body is off and its in great shape. Going to get it blasted then paint it. Chassis is perfect. Only real rust is the leaf springs. Going to keep the engine red with black accents.
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Looks like you have a CJ-2A frame. That explains how a bottom mounted radiator fits in there.
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I thought that as well but the tabs look shade tree welded on vs. factory. The motor mounts are offset. It also has the later brake line bracket at the front. The tub isn't modified and fit perfectly on the frame. Who knows. Im happy with it nonetheless less as its in amazing shape.
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Shark,
Your jeep keeps adding surprises as this thread goes along! I hadn't noticed the front bumper gussets before!! That is an early jeep fixture that wasn't around by the time CJ3B's were made. I've found surprises on my jeep. Cross check the engine mounts to see if there's any evidence they were adjusted (to accommodate the later offset) on the frame rails.
I wouldn't be surprised if you find more clues about unique choices made by all the Previous Owners (PO) that came before you!
I'm not really well versed on the earlier 2A's- 3A's. There were lots of changes in the span of 5 years. I've got my hands full trying to keep up with one jeep!
Bob W. has a deep well of knowledge (by all means, get a copy of his book, found here on his website):
https://cj3a.info/lit/Literature.html
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Yep saw the gussets too. I practically live on the cj3b.info website and it makes sense. Kinda irritates me because I really wanted an original CJ3B and PO didn't even know it either. However, with the body and frame being in such good shape and it titled as a cj3b I guess I'll keep going with the restomod.
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One thing we with DJs (factory "restomods" of parts-available) learned of Willys, is "never say" they "never did that". Willys was great at using what was available until inventory was used up. DJs (2WD) still used the L-head until 1963 but share a lot in common 'electrically' with the CJ3Bs 4WD. I say enjoy what you got and keep on 'Jeepin' in "iconic style". Besides, it'll make 'yours' easy to 'identify' by its 'uniqueness'. Happy Motoring!
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One thing we with DJs (factory "restomods" of parts-available) learned of Willys, is "never say" they "never did that". Willys was great at using what was available until inventory was used up. DJs (2WD) still used the L-head until 1963 but share a lot in common 'electrically' with the CJ3Bs 4WD. I say enjoy what you got and keep on 'Jeepin' in "iconic style". Besides, it'll make 'yours' easy to 'identify' by its 'uniqueness'. Happy Motoring!
AGREED!!
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I purchased a new dual action fuel pump and its very hard to push down enough due to strength of the spring to bolt it up. I did a search and found plenty of threads on the L-head but not the F-Head. Any links or trick on what to do? I also read that a spacer is needed but with the new pump with angled end vs curved arm end its not needed. What's the consensus?
thanks,
Nate
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I'm also in favor of keeping the uniqueness. I got mine with a D41 in the back. That got rebuilt along with the rest of the jeep and is still there.
Fuel pump: Have you attempted to turn the engine to see if the lobe (on the cam) can be positioned away from the fuel pump? This may give you enough to get the pump into position.
When I mounted mine, I had the gasket in place and the bolts in the holes and pushed the whole pump down to get it to slide into place where I could manipulate the bolts into the threads. I can't say what I did was right - it wasn't easy.
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yep it was the cam. got it installed. PITA for sure.
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Looked on here and CJ3B info and could not come to a definitive conclusion on what these five factory looking nuts are for. These are high above the twilight holes. A reflector? Most reflectors I see pics of use two screws.
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Almost looks like it could be for an M38 style trailer socket.
(https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Electrical_Images/1519B2.jpg)
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yep thats what it is. Trailer hookup. Next question is what is the fifth threaded nut at bottom of that grouping? It's on both sides. Right side is just the single hole.
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With all the extra holes, it's difficult to know for sure. I also thought of the trailer socket plug - except for the extra nuts. Ignoring the sheet metal screws for now, could that "5th" nut pair up with the lower one way off to the side of your image (down lower when upright)? Would that match the measurement of a reflector?
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It may russ. Ill check.
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The holes fit reflector perfectly.
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On another note. Trying to find a picture of how the e-brake mounts under the dash of cj3b. Mine was rigged by PO
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My 1964, which has the T handle parking brake, does not mount to anything under the dash. The round mounting plater attaches to the dash with 2 bolts, and then the cable is attached to the end of the handle housing on the firewall side with a spring clip. There is a rubber grommet in the firewall around the cable.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/CAM00961.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/CAM010102.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/DSCN95891.JPG)
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Awesome thanks. Mine has the bracket for the cane style with spot like earlier jeeps. I could drill a hole and install one of those but I have a decent shape t handle too.. Unfortunately my dash was cut up by PO for a radio and contemplating keeping it and putting a marine radio in there.
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Finally got the body back from paint. It was originally painted OD Green at factory but I went with the seafood green. Chassis has been cleaned and painted. New lift springs with lift shackles. New wiring harness. Painted the tranny and engine ford gray. Putting everything back together and using ss hardware as much as possible.
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I searched and most of the links are bad. Does someone have a cj3b firewall layout? Nothing seems to come up on my searches. Im trying to use pictures on internet to figure it out but seems to be so varied.
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Also, the taillight buckets have this offset bolt pattern. Looks like it's for a HALL style taillights? Does anyone have a line on these repro or otherwise? The set I bought from KW don't match and the driver side doesn't stick out enough past the body with the back piece mounted on it. Jeepster taillights seem to be a close match....
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OD green from the factory? Your early posts showed red under a bluish-green. The trailer socket hole in the back and the bracket behind the tail lights are making me wonder if this is an aftermarket tub. Doesn't matter. You've got a unique set-up. I like the color you chose.
The firewall issue will be varied. Add-ons, adjustments and so on will make it tough to decipher. I've got an early 3B so maybe my hole count could be different from your '63. Here's my collaboration with several members way back when we were on tapatalk:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/firewall-grommets-t4501.html
I was focusing on the correct grommets but they go into holes so maybe you'll see some things as you scan the images. Studying the images of the later model engines on the 3B page may give you an angle you need. Also, the article about W/O improving on a after market tub, their Repli-Tub:
https://cj3b.info/Owners/Porfidio.html..
When I look at this firewall, I see too many holes. I can identify most but the extra holes on the driver's side is a mystery to me. These may have been added on purpose (like for extra wiring stuff). Also, if you have a fresh air heater, you may need some holes specifically for that.
About your tail light bracket, I've never seen the back of Hall up close but reviewing these images, thay all apper to be flush on the tub itself:
https://cj3b.info/Dating/Taillights.html
(good links to other jeeps with Hall lights)
What you're showing appears to me to be the bracket behind a military light. I think they were recessed behind the tub and didn't stick out
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Thanks for the response Rus. yeah the color code tag and inside the tool box and up under dash indicated OD green. Could be a replitub who knows. Or maybe it was a military version. Yeah I found both those links. I even went to taillight kings website to no avail. It is an interesting setup maybe it is for military lights. I may just find a set of LED trailer lights that fit in the hole. not sure. PO had this goofy setup with an external tag light and turn lights.
Speaking of the rear, in a previous post on this thread we were talking about the trailer socket and the reflectors. Does your parts book indicate what kind of hardware they use? There's a threaded nut on the back side and for the life of me can't figure out its threading. I think it's 1/4 x something but both fine and coarse threads didn't work.
Also could you take a picture of your MC cover plate? I have a 4 hole one that doesn't line up with the holes.
thanks again for your help!
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I can't find a reference for reflectors in the 3B Parts Manual. There may be one, but I can't find it. I then just about downloaded a military manual to see what it said but remembered some M606 info on the 3B Page.
I've also downloaded some images of the pages I had saved from 10+ years ago (see attachments at bottom). The articles that Derek has posted show a parts list for the 606 and it does come with reflectors. That parts list shows 1/4 x 20 x 3/8"
https://cj3b.info/Military/M606Specs.html
https://cj3b.info/Military/M606Parts.html
If your tub has multiple layers of paint, it is almost certain those threads will need chasing to open them back up again.
Wonder what other surprises you'll uncover as you go....
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Rus,
I read your discussion on the heater for the 3B. Do you ha[pen to know what model or brand the period correct on is? Mine came with a square CJ2A heater. I can't get it to run off a 12 volt battery. Maybe it's 6volt? Does it use the body as its negative ground?
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To my knowledge, no one is making either heater nowadays. Not the "tombstone" style for the early jeeps nor the fresh air type for the later 3B. The Parts Manual I have has group section:
GROUP 35-21 -- HEATER AND DEFROSTER
but I'm not sure which heater this refers to, but the heater assembly is 669313.
The other post you checked in on may be one of the best as ChuckW did a detailed restoration of a fresh air heater
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5234.0
Grover's website had a list of salvage yards that was becoming dated back when I used it (late '90s) so more dated now. Living in KS at the time, I travelled down to one of the listed yards in OK and scored all the clips I needed for wiring and brake lines plus some more parts. We talked for quite a while and then I left. I haven't published my story on the heater I got yet but he called me out of the blue telling me he had just pulled one out of a '55 CJ5. My point is you never know where your next needed part may come from. Also get in touch with Harry Sheets.
I haven't seen anyone take detailed measurements of a complete unit. I suspect one day that will be the only way to reconstruct one.
On your donor heater, If 6V, it should run - really fast - on 12V (my square donor heater did). More likely there could be some wear internally. I've looked up replacement motors using NAPA to swap out my heater motor.
Everything should use the body/frame as a common ground - hence the one wire going to everything.
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Also could you take a picture of your MC cover plate? I have a 4 hole one that doesn't line up with the holes.
Almost overlooked this!
My Inspection Plate has 5 holes (don't know why - more than needed IMHO). When I got the jeep, it had one screw holding and you could swing it out to look underneath. My Parts Manual shows three screws holding it on:
GROUP 31-14 -- PLATES, SEALS AND COVERS
663462 Cover, inspection, brake master cylinder .....1
GM-162050 Screw, pan. hd. No. 14 x 1/2" (Brake cylinder inspection cover to floor).....3
I lined up the flat edge towards the treadle (gas pedal) and then found these three holes to attach with (see attachment below).
If your plate has only four holes, does it have a flat side like mine? Line that up, crawl under mark the holes then drill.
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sweet thanks!
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My 1964, which has the T handle parking brake, does not mount to anything under the dash. The round mounting plater attaches to the dash with 2 bolts, and then the cable is attached to the end of the handle housing on the firewall side with a spring clip. There is a rubber grommet in the firewall around the cable.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/CAM00961.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/CAM010102.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/DSCN95891.JPG)
Im ready to mount my t-handle and was hoping you could give dimensions to locate the holes. Also, what is that clip at the firewall? I can't seem to find that on supplier website.
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Initially, I thought you'll need input from an owner that has a late model with that type handle (still would be better!). But I did some poking around.
First, a direct reference to what you posted. It looks like Chuck's post describes it:
...and then the cable is attached to the end of the handle housing on the firewall side with a spring clip. There is a rubber grommet in the firewall around the cable.
Looking at the middle image (cable/handle on the table) you can see the slots on either side of the handle housing where the clip is attached. Keeps the whole outer assembly locked into place. Then the grommet keeps it from wobbling.
Next, I found one reference to those parts (it's a partial reference) as an image of a page out of the Dispatch Manual (attachment below).
Also, I found this old post:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/viewtopic.php?p=41286#p41286
Analize the links I posted as I was making a lot of assumptions! IF your hand brake hole is square on the dash, then my guess would be straight back to the firewall. Mark it. "X" it to find center and drill a hole - so that there's no binding or angle to the handle housing and the plate that mounts to the dash.
Kept poking around and found a clip that may be the same:
https://www.willysjeepparts.com/Front_Hand_Brake_Cable_Parts.htm
Clip 733604
That part number shows up here:
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/emergency-brake-cable-to-t-handle-clip-fits-53-71-cj-3b-5-truck-station-wagon-jeepster-commando/
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Awesome you rock thanks!
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got another mystery. Right above the steering column is a hole with a threaded hole next to it. Any idea what it's for? I scoured interior photos cj3binfo but didn't get anywhere.
Also, in the center bracket under dash is a round indention with a square hole. Was this to support the Harrison heater?
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photos 1&2, could this be what you're looking at?
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Owners/Wade/CurtisPhotos/FirewallLeft.JPG)
This is the pressure line from the block to the back of the oil pressure gauge. You have the large cluster, right? I believe the sender is electrical (not sure how the wiring is supposed to look for that).
photo 3, that brace is right under the gauges. Too far to the left to support the heater (as far as I can tell from the images below - either style):
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Owners/1959/Hill59/Hill59HeatControl.jpg)
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/DashGrayscale.JPG)
Both heaters are over the right floor panel. I don't know what the intended purpose was for the square hole but I'm using mine to add a bracket where I'll mount 2 auxiliary power sockets.
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yep. that must be it. I wonder what the hole next to the line is for. in that pic it appears to be plugged but obviously meant for something....
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Another mystery to me. I had those holes in mine. I noticed these plugs in Lawrence Wade's unrestored '55 and noticed another plug up higher on the firewall (not sure what that one would be for either). I got all the plugs I needed from a salvage yard.
Here's that area from the inside (attachment below):
Note the paint run going sideways. I found this on my tub after removing it and before blasting. Makes me think the tubs were stood up on their sides and painted - in a hurry.
I did find a reference in the Parts Manual under, GROUP 31-04 -- COWL, DASH AND INSTRUMENT PANELS,
listing a button plug for the governor control hole in the dash. To me, this is a different hole.
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that must be it, I can plug the bigger hole I guess.
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I had a printout of the dimensions for exterior body grab handles. I gave it away with the CJ3A I sold. Now I cannot find a link for this info and I searched grab handles body handles etc.. any idea where to look?
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I think the military jeeps had grab handles. Is that what you're talking about?
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yessir. I found dimensions and layout for it before but my searches have been for naught.
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I did a quick search on g503 and all of the threads pointed to jeepdraw. Cheap accurate drawings that are sent as a .pdf file.
I got one for my trailer's pivot leg plunger - I needed to know what angle to bend after inserting it back into the casting.
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I found a video as well. Where can I get your parts book? Do you know what hardware is required for the transmission tunnel cover plate?
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Rus,
What does your cj have for wire clips along the top of the radiator and elsewhere? I am contemplating if I want to use the push in style or the bolt/screw in style.
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also looking for wire connector to this type of end on oil pressure sender.
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I found a video as well. Where can I get your parts book? Do you know what hardware is required for the transmission tunnel cover plate?
I bought my Parts Manual (a xeroxed reprint - so some of the images aren't that great) from a vendor but I don't remember which one. When checking, see if the vendor sells manuals and there's a good chance they'll have a PM. I also got an Owners Manual too.
What does your cj have for wire clips along the top of the radiator and elsewhere?
Here's an image of Lawrence Wade's unrestored '55 (I took a lot of photos to help with my rebuild):
(http://cj3b.info/Photos/Owners/Wade/CurtisPhotos/GrilleBrace.JPG)
Here's the page of all the other pictures (including more clips on the fender and clips under the frame, etc):
http://cj3b.info/Owners/WadeDetails.html
I've seen many rebuilds with the wire clips that fasten with a screw. They're easy to find. I've run across some suppliers for the clips seen above. It'll take me a bit to find them again.
also looking for wire connector to this type of end on oil pressure sender.
That is very similar to my backup light switch (has two posts). You can use a simple female quick disconnect or a clip designed for that. Here are a couple of random posts from other forums describing the same problem:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-sender-unit-location-f-engine.1023451/
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/73-oil-pressure-sending-unit-wiring.252327/
If you use the simple quick disconnect, suggest the insulated version. Make a small cut in the center to allow the post to slide in. You may also need to use a small screwdriver/blade to gently pry up the ends to allow it to easily slip over the flange.
My B/U switch attached below (I used shrink wrap to insulate).
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I'll see what I can find at the local oriellys. I think ill do something nicer for the wire clips.
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Rus,
Do you happen to know where I can find this choke and throttle cable holding linkage. I found one on eBay but it only holds one line and its not for Willys I guess.
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Which part?
https://cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/Carter/YF3Bp2.gif
There's a bracket attached to the side of the carb. At the end of this bracket there is a clip that, from above image, holds the choke cable. There's another separate smaller clip just below that (held in place by the same screw/nut) that holds the throttle cable (attachment below).
I somehow lost my small clip for the throttle during my decades long rebuild, sending carb off to get rebuilt, and moving/retiring (can't understand how that could happen...). I sent image to Scoutpilot and he fixed me up. And as per my experience, after searching/finding or going to some alternate fix, vendors eventually get around to offering parts I've needed - always after the fact:
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/us-made-throttle-control-cable-clamp-fits-46-66-cj-2a-3a-3b-5/
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perfect thanks!
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Run, no idea why it has taken me this long to find but the photo references you did on cj3b info is great!
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I cut the hole for the T-handle brake and realized I have to relocate the starter wire harness to a lower hole as the brake cable appears to come straight out the back. Like my speedo surround?
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I just realized the drivers seat that the PO included is incorrect. I should have dry fit it before paint. dammit. Is the M38A1 seat the correct one for the later CJ3B?
Also do you have a line on the passenger seat resting bracket?
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I cut the hole for the T-handle brake and realized I have to relocate the starter wire harness to a lower hole as the brake cable appears to come straight out the back. Like my speedo surround?
I imagined the cable would come straight out. Unlike the early 3Bs (and models before) that have the "cane" hand brake that travels through the instrument panel/firewall at an angel, the later "T" hand brake really looks like it needs to exit through the firewall in a straight line. I would think that any angle on that handbrake assembly could stress and brake something. Here's a link to way back, when we were on that crappy Tapatalk, discussing grommets. Look at Charlie's firewall images. That should help you place the wiring harness holes (I don't think anyone would notice if it were an inch off - nor would it bother the harness).
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/firewall-grommets-t4501-s10.html
Notice the orientation to the oil bath breather screws and the speedometer cable to the right of that. BONUS: Charlie has a grommet in that hole on the driver's side toeboard you were asking about earlier. It looks like that could have had a governor cable in it at one time.
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I just realized the drivers seat that the PO included is incorrect. I should have dry fit it before paint. dammit.
Always!! Maybe several times, just to be sure!
Is the M38A1 seat the correct one for the later CJ3B?
I don't know much about the early CJ-5. I did google dimensions and found this thread:
http://www.earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/82933/
Notice some familiar names? Oldtime shares dimensions that show the tub is a bid wider ( I would have guessed that but didn't know). I would deduce from that the seat dimensions would also be wider. Are you a welder, or in my case, do you know a welder? You may also be able to horse trade for the correct 3B seats (may be a challenge for the side mount leg).
Also do you have a line on the passenger seat resting bracket?
My bracket looks different. Studying the images on Seats:
https://cj3b.info/Seat.html
It looks like your passenger bracket hole locations matches the posted image (not sure what that screw through the hat channel support could be for). Note where the pivot brackets are mounted (I also see a difference between the early/late passenger legs). You may need to get creative to make things fit. I've had to fabricate. I took some of my drawings into a shop and they cut parts and welded them up for me.
If your passenger seat reaches up to the edge brackets, you have an early seat - it could still work. See where the bracket would need to be and ensure the back left leg contacts the tub.
The driver's seat should have attachments similar to the images from the 3B Page. Make sure the back left is secure and go from there.
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So luck would have it there's a guy here in Charlotte with a trailer full of early jeep parts. I went over today and he had a set of late cj3B seats as well as a 3/4 bench set. I bought both for a next to nothing. Both sets of frames are in excellent shape although the vinyl is shot. The first set fits perfect but unfortunately the 3/4 bench set if for a tuxedo park cj5 so Ill sell those. Should help pay for the upholstery.
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Excellent!
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ya right!
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Trying to determine some of the holes on the right side of the jeep. The big one is obviously for the heater fresh air. Any idea what the four ~1/2" dia. holes are for?
I am also trying to get the hole locations for the vertical canvas door metal piece.
I could not find any info on it in the canvas top section in tech section.
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That first picture shows some extra holes. No idea what they may be for (suspect the large one up high may have been an antenna once upon a time). The fresh air hole has too many holes around it. I've not seen that many before. Here's a couple of images floating around on the 3B Page that show the same 4 screws holding the screen/plate on:
Anderson 1960
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Owners/1960/Anderson60/Anderson60TopOff.jpg)
Belden 1962
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Owners/Belden/BeldenFreshAirVent.JPG)
From the Heater Tech Tips: Larson 1961
(https://cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/Heater/Larson61HeaterVent.JPG)
In that same Tech Tips section above image is from, it shows the plate if no heater is installed.
For the second question, read this thread:
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5001.0
Hope this helps a bit.
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Dude you are the master at this! All the holes around the fresh air are from PO using a reflector there. I wish I could find that vent screen! I thought the bigger holes may be for a gas can holder but they don't match up. I also looked on M606 pages but nothing. I guess it's just bubbified. I'll patch them up I guess. thanks again sir.
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I think every jeep comes with extra holes. Mine had too many to count.
I forgot to mention that Harry Sheets may be a good source for used parts such as the screen assembly and the channels:
http://www.midwestwillys.com/
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Im bringing the newly found seats to get upholstered today. Still need to do gas tank, bleed brakes, and wire the military style lights up and the front lights. then should be on the road pretty soon! I had no idea they existed. I found my vent!
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When to install my tranny boot and it doesn't go all the way down. Any idea what's up? How tall is yours?
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I would say a snug fit is good - keeps the rain out of the shifter better.
That one looks like mine (about 3.25").
Alcohol makes rubber real slippery but may run down into your transmission. I'd probably use a bit of vaseline or silicone on the boot/shaft to help get it down into position as alcohol.
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it literally won't go down any more.Its too short. Im going to try Herm and see what he has
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just discovered something interesting. Went to get headlight bezels and realized my front grill doesn't say Willys on it and the buckets are the larger style with the 9-1/4" bezels. It's not modified either. I wonder if this was a replacement grill back when AMC wouldn't let them put Willys on anything?
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Based on what I've seen/read, the radiator guards (grill) seem to survive longer than all the other body parts. I know I've seen a lot posted about non-stamped body parts on the later models as the jeep continued to change hands.
Feel free to drool over Charnok's '63 and note that his was near the end of stamped body parts.
https://cj3b.info/Owners/Charnok2.html
You can also scan the owner's photos from the last few years and see examples of the body panels without stamps - even there you'll find exceptions.
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interesting
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Quick update. Got the windshield on and managed to put a hole in the radiator installing the shroud so had to remove it. Argh. The Carter glass bowl fuel filter glass cracked on me but found some replacement glass on eBay. I think the dual action fuel pump may be pushing too much pressure? I found an original fold out windshield from India so working on that now. wonder where I can get the glass for it. Also found a passenger side mounted jerry can holder so going to get it painted. Lines up perfectly with the holes already there!
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I noticed how close those screws were to the radiator and made sure the replacement screws weren't too long - to avoid adding holes.
I think all the glass bowls (pumps/filters) need extra care during install so they're flush and not off center. The gasket needs to be in good condition, so overtightening isn't needed to get them to seal - which may lead to cracking. The SM shows pump pressure in para F-45 and Table F-53. Those with more experience than me could add information, but I don't believe the pump could produce enough pressure to crack a filter (or pump) bowl. If there were too much pressure, I'd assume there'd be carb problems instead.
There have been questions in the past about how to find parts for the fold out w/s. You're talking about just the inner frame, or both inner and outer? Share where you found it as that may be good info for others (seems the rubber seal was hard to find). As far as the dimensions of the glass, what I understand is no one sells any of these. What most glass shops have is a pattern and they cut it out of a flat sheet. This is how I got mine replaced. Making an assumption here: The glass may be the same dimension as all other 3Bs. You may need to show the company your frame (or measure yourself) for them to compare.
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I thought about using some petroleum jelly to assist in the seal for the first time. I think the pressure may have been caused by a clogged needle backing it up. I bought the inner frame complete with hinges handles and seal from a guy in India but there are a few listed on Ebay now for around 300.
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I found this bracket in my box of willys parts and it looks like some kind of spare tire bump. Maybe a seat stop? can anyone identify it?
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A puzzle. I don't recognize it.
Anything protruding on the other side, i.e. threads?
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yes its threaded
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Im down to the brakes and for the life of me cannot get the end of the master cylinder to stop leaking. It's brand new, new Y fitting, new crush washers, new brake light actuator. Its leaking at the MC to y side.
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I got the lines all sealed tight after getting a Vintage Jeeper y-fitting and crush washer. Now I have bled all of the lines not one bubble but can't seem to get a solid pedal. I have the wildwood remote brake reservoir on it. Any ideas?
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A non-solid pedal.
You mean it continues to the floor pan as you push?
or
You have to pump it to get a good solid pedal?
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essentially both. It's soft and takes three pumps to get it to stop well. So it's gotta be a pressure issue. Maybe there's still a bubble somewhere. Ill just bleed the crap out of them again.
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Could it be the resivoir is not "venting" to allow the fluid to move to be pressurized? How do you have it attached to the MC?
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From my experience, if you push and the pedal slowly moves down to the floor - there is a leak. Ensure all wheels are dry. Place a small piece of tape along the fluid line on your remote reservoir. Push hard and wait for it to travel a measurable distance. Check the reservoir to see if it's higher (shouldn't be) and while you can check behind each wheel, pulling the drums to see if there's evidence of cylinder leaking may be needed.
If you need to pump to get pedal, it could be a bubble. I start with the right rear and then work to the closest wheel. It could also be your shoes need adjusting (cylinders having to travel extra to make contact) or the mc push rod may need adjusting (pedal needs 1/2" free travel).
All this in BRAKE section (paragraphs P-3, P-4 and P-5) follow it closely.
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Interesting. I was taught that one should start with the MC, and then to the shortest line closest to the MC to bleed it, and then move to the next until the fluid is all the way to the end and air doesn't get trapped in the line or splitters. Everybody has their own way. As long as all of the air is out of the line in front of the MC, and air can move in and out "vent" at the reservoir to "not create a vacuum on the back side of the MC" for the line pressure to have to fight.
I agree with Rus, it is best to check for wheel cylinder leaks inside the drum... before you potentially soak a shoe or two with fluid. Good Luck. Drive SAFE!
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Steve,
For me, Chilton's and our Service Manual, par P-4 (about 4 sentences down). Plus, asking mechanics back in the 70's-80's when I first got my jeep and started working on it. I just stuck with it. Interestingly, the mechanics would bleed a m/c of most autos on the bench (I asked a lot of questions) but ours is rather simple and I've done okay with bleeding after installation. I will also add that back then, I'd get help pumping. But a few decades ago, I got a pressure bleeder (similar to what the mechanics I knew used) and have never looked back.
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no cylinder leaks. Im convinced it's a bubble seeing as it gets stiffer when I pump the pedal.
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no cylinder leaks. Im convinced it's a bubble seeing as it gets stiffer when I pump the pedal.
To be thorough, again, ensure the shoes are adjusted to minimize travel where pumping is required (para P-6).
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RUS, and others. I learned my ways from a Master Mechanic starting back in mid 60s. Lots of things have changed, including technology, and replicated thru social media and other ways of the "methodology". All I know is, he was an accomplished mechanic owning his own garage and was trusted to even do the short blocks by the "truck load" for the Jenkins NHRA drag racer, as well as Bobby Allison NASCAR, a local here back in the day, and even Hendric Motors a while back. Granted, my guy was "unorthodox" with "his methods", but his results could not be denied.
"His logic" was... push the old fluid and any air "out" from the MC (fluid source) out continuing to fill the MC as needed.... to not allow any "trapped air" or "old contaminated fluid" at distribution splits or in the cylinders. I've never done it any other way, so I can't compare methods.
Air bubbles, or contaminated fluid, left in the system is not going to allow the "system" to work at maximum capability and dependability. NOTE: Air actually assists in "contaminating fluid" with condensation build up... as well as creates a "cushion" not allowing full pressure. I was surprised to read just how fast air contaminates the fluid, and that's why it shouldn't be used after lengthy storage. The air in the stored container condensates... so I've been told.
Starting with the "proper shoe adjustment" is a must as well. A while back I commented on the "vent hole" on the MC fill-cap getting "blocked" and causing problems. It seems some didn't know that tiny hole was even there (dirt and/or paint blocking it). That is why I asked here "how the added reservoir" was connected, and "if" it was properly vented, probably so as a "new kit". But, was air trapped in the MC when installed and just isn't getting pushed out completely... yet...???
I love all of the personal experiences shared on this site. We're never too old to "learn new tricks" without having to experience them all "first hand". THANKS to all involved!!!
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Brakes are still squishy. Can't figure it out. May take it to a local mechanic.
On another note, what tool are guys using to drain the rear differential? It's a 7/8" square recessed plug and I cannot find anything online.
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I'm going to kick that dead horse one more time; Did you verify your shoes are adjusted all the way out (turn eccentrics until making contact, spinning the wheel, then back off just a bit, par. P-6)? I've not seen a confirmation on this yet. Also, how are you bleeding? 2-person, pressure, vacuum?
7/8" ?! That's nearly an inch across! Are you sure it's not maybe 3/4"?
I've always used a 1/2" or 3/8" extension - depending on the plug size. If it is 3/4" you can get a bargain adaptor at Harbor Freight to step up from 1/2 to 3/4.
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Yes I believe I did that when I installed all new brakes. It still takes about two to three pumps to be firm. I have bled them with my daughter assisting as well as using a compressor activated one. no leaks anywhere!
I may have mis-read the tape measure but it's the standard rear differential with the recessed drain at bottom. I need to tighten it.
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I would try the shoe adjustment again - to be sure. No different than bleeding multiple times. I'm really hoping this is your issue (it could be just one or two wheels). Having said that, going back to your earlier post about a remote reservoir, I'm not familiar with its setup. Steve posted a point about the m/c cap. How does that thing get tapped into the m/c? is there any instructions relating to purging/draining or bleeding?
For the drain plug, crud and goop can build up and make it difficult to get the correct tool up in the slot. But, give the 1/2 drive ratchet with a short extension a shot and see if it fits. If too small maybe the 3/4" adapter mentioned.
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I put the original cap back on it and it did not change. Ill try the shoes again.
Vintage Jeeper sells a cap with a threaded hole in the top in which you put a nipple and hose up to the remote reservoir.
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Vintage Jeeper sells a cap with a threaded hole in the top in which you put a nipple and hose up to the remote reservoir.
This is how I've seen it described. I just don't have any experience - but if no air gets in, it should work.
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Since my reference was brought up, let me try to clarify. There is supposed to be a "vent hole" (pic 1 attached) in the original MC cap. Sometimes via dirt or paint it gets covered up. The remote reservoir should have a vent in it, being the "highest point". If the original MC cap had a "working vent", the system would be able to suck air in, or release pressure slightly. Hopefully the KW cap not only is threaded, but seals the MC. The sequence of pics show the bottom deflector of the original cap, then the components of the cap, and the last the pieces of "my system set up". I hope that helps.
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I went through each wheel and readjusted the pads and while they were a bit off it wasn't enough to make a major change. I got tired of crawling under it on hard concrete so I brought it to my local shop who works on classics and did a lot on my 61 Chevy apache. In the meantime. Pics of the jeep as it stands! Getting the fold out windshield hardware powder coated.
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Looks purty. Happy motoring.
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Transmission question. I have an overdrive on my 3 speed. Works great. However, when I am driving and I let off the gas it often shakes and rattles. Is that a bad bearing? Under throttle it's fine if a bit noisy. I emptied and replaced the gear oil.
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How did you determine it was the OD? Have you applied tension (forward/rear/side-to-side) to each shifter to see if the rattle changes?
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I was just stating I have an OD. The shifters rattle but its like a whole tranny thing when I lift off throttle and then reapply it will vibrate whole jeep
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Ok. How about shifting out of OD into direct drive. Same? This is in 2WD, right?
That description also makes me wonder about your U joints. Especially when you say it vibrates the whole jeep. May be hard to twist by hand but another way is to jack up wheel and turn the tire back and forth. Watch the yokes to see if there's movement between the yoke and driveshaft ( both - at the transfer and differential). This works for front or back. Lifting both wheels on an axle will just get the other wheel spinning.
If you can rule out the U joints, there may be some other things to look at.
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YEs 2wd. yokes are brand-new but ill check that.
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Also check phase.
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QUESTION... When did you start noticing it? Was it after any major "changes", or "incidents" (like off roading)? Pinion angle too extreme, bent drive shaft, worn gears in transmission or OD, etc.
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No big changes just getting it on the road for my first time. The transfer case handles rattle some but there's something else going on when alifting off throttle and then back on with slight throttle the whole things vibrates
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This may be a strange question, but.. Are all of the tires the same size and condition, or if not, might it be that when you take it off "load" and then power back the differences "translate" back thru the tires to the drivelines trying to "catch up" at different speeds or conditions (like balances, tread types, wear factors, alignment, etc)?
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all the same and radial tires at that. Im going to check all of the mounts etc. for loose nuts. But it feels as if something is off balance but under load it's fine.
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Can you recreate the vibration with the vehicle up on "Jack stands under the axle housings" for FREE WHEEL spin and proper "ride position"... spinning the wheels with load and "no load"... and with the assistance of a helper make observations that way from underneath? Maybe see if just one axle does the vibration, or elewhere, like a drive shaft, or the tranny itself.