My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your CJ-3A Project => Topic started by: Shark49 on January 22, 2022, 06:30:39 AM
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Hey there.
Nate from Fort Mill, SC. Just purchased a 1949 CJ3A and looking forward to getting it on the road. The engine and tranny are very solid as is most of the body. The floor boards were replaced at one time and while the welds are pretty good there's some issues I will need to attend to. First thing is welding in the tool box.
So far I have done the following:
1. Replaced plug wires and put on new distributor
2. New gas tank hoses and straps
3. Rebuilt the steering box and replaced a few parts and greased it all
4. Repacked all bearings and replaced front right ones
5. Redid the brakes and replaced master cylinder
6. Replaced ignition switch
7. Cleaned up carb
8. Replaced clutch and u-joints
Next up in no particular order:
1. Install new seats and cushions
2. Replace entire wiring harness
3. Replace taillights
4. Cowl rubber
5. new mirrors
6. Dress up engine compartment with new air horn and filter, oil filter, etc.
7. Purchased new HD Juan wheels and traxion tires. Wheels are getting powder coated black
8. Install the various handles, footman loops, bow storage etc.
9. POR15 or rhino line the tub
10. Paint the body
I plan on painting it either cadet gray or riviera gray (CJ3B colors).
Can't wait to start driving it this spring!!
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Shark49,
Welcome! Nice procurement! How much do you know about its history? When I see the straps across the w/s vent, the first thing I think of is M38. Is that windshield a possible M38?
Good progress so far! If I may, a suggestion on #3. If you want your steering box to last, you'll need to use gear oil vs. grease. Some swear by 140 but I pulled the trigger and went back (originally grease - with all worn parts) with 80W gear oil (GL-4 or less). I did find some leaks but fixed those. I did, however, use grease to stick the loose bearings in place until I got the Tube and Cam set in place.
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no history at all. Guy I bought it from was clueless as am I this is my first willys. Good info on the steering thanks!!
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With that information, I strongly encourage adding a Service Manual to your library. It has a lot of information in it. Service, Repair, Wiring Diagrams, Exploded Views, etc. Very much worth the price.
You will be able to not only read up on your "new" jeep but also look up different components and see how they go together, how to disassemble/re-assemble and specifics/limits on them as well.
Let the journey begin!
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Man this solex carb is just not doing well. It won't run off choke. I took it partially apart and cleaned out the float bowl and screen. Had a lot of sludge in the bottom of it. Put it back together and it starts quicker but the minute I reduce choke it starves and dies. Plugs are not rich. Tank is brand new with new gas. New fuel pump filter and wiring. I sprayed engine tuner-in-a-can all around the intake manifold and under the carb to see if there's a vac leak but no change in rpm so I am thinking carb is the issue. I will try to reset the screws. I imagine it may be somewhat clogged/gummed up and just needs to run through some good gas to clean it out too.
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Hi matey, the Solex is pretty bomb proof although not to everyone's taste. I have one on mine. Barring any real issues such as being completely clogged it sounds like you need to adjust your idle jet. It's the only adjustable jet on the unit and is located on the carb facing towards the grill. If it's stalling when you put the choke in then I would suggest it's that.
On the rear is an idle rev screw. Try winding that up, raising the revs, until you can put the choke in. If you can then turn the idle jet screw in or out until the revs are as fast as they will go and smooth.
At this point you can wind back the rear idle screw to the idle revs you require.
Hopefully this makes sense.
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Yes it does and thanks. I tried googling solex carb adjustments but I kept getting VW threads or links to manuals to buy. Waiting for my service manual to come in from KW as well.
-Nate
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That seemed to do the trick. Runs way better now. I bought a replacement carb from KW just in case. On another note, when checking the oil, I noticed the oil filler tube is really loose. It has a pretty good sized dent down at the bottom. Is there any tricks to getting it to stay in place? What is the consensus on attaching the tube from the air horn assembly to it?
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The tube on mine was loose as well. I pulled it and cleaned it up and put a SMALL dab of JB on it and reinstalled it. Does yours have the strap that secures the tube to the block? If not I would get one and install it.
The air tube you are referring to is in a negative pressure when the engine is running, in other words it's sucking air and whatever is in the air into the engine. It needs to be filtered.
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so got my new wheels and tires installed and started it up to warm it it for a ride and all of a sudden it died. No spark to plugs. Brand new coil, dist., wires, and plugs. It turns over but no go. No idea where to start.
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Hiya, it cranks but no spark, firstly check that you have power to the coil. Due to all the work you've done it could be a loose wire. Lack of power to the coil is my best guess given what you describe.
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Percy I think that's exactly what it is. Took the ignition switch out and saw an empty connector at the positive side so must be a wire came off. I really need to re-wire the whole rig but jut want to take it for a spin!
-Nate
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We all know that feeling, forget the wiring and go for it
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Well unfortunately after a few hours of trying to figure out why it wouldn't run it came down to a bad electronic distributor. I replaced the coil with a new one to be safe and even put a wire directly from the battery to it and still no spark at plugs and there is no way all four plugs are fouled. At first I thought the distributor shaft broke off but after calling walcks they gave me specs on it and the slot at end is only 1/4" so that was a big relief! So I sent it off to them for replacement. Now just waiting on the mail etc. Unfortunately its not something I can purchase locally. argh guess no cars and coffee tomorrow.
I guess ill jump on the wiring now lol.
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I tore out all of the old wiring and trying to organize the new and in the directions is speaks of a terminal block in the engine compartment. I have looked through a dozen photos of engine bays but none clearly show how it is supposed to look. I was thinking about just buying a marine grade terminal from a marina because the one at KW looks like it could easily degrade.
Can someone show me a photo of what they have?
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On your wiring diagram for the 3A, you'll see it up near the front of the driver's inner fender skirt. All the wires coming from the light switch, dimmer switch and turn signal switch (if installed) connect there on their own posts so that the lights are on the correct circuit. I'll wager a guess that the junction block is there so you can remove the radiator guard and have a place to disconnect the wires without ripping everything apart.
Did Walck's give you a color diagram of which wire goes where?
I added a pic from Buddy Wade's '55 on the CJ3B Page on your other post.
Here's mine during the wiring process below:
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From the CJ3A Page (the jeep link at the top of this forum):
https://www.cj3apage.com/index/Tech_Tips/wiring%20diagrams.htm
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awesome that's very helpful!
Another question. Im installing new throttle cable and choke cable but not sure how to cut back the sheath. What is the best way? Small pipe cutter?
thanks,
NAte
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I'm not sure what the "correct" answer is. I "think" if you use wire cutters, diagonal cutters (diags/*) they would not give you a clean exit for the wire inside. Others may be able to confirm this would work. If you are left with a burr or "tag" sticking out interfering with the inner wire, you could also use a small rat tail file to reshape the exit.
What I did was use a cut-off wheel on my Dremel. I measured first. I already had the spark plug wires and throttle linkage installed. I wanted to see what was in the way before figuring out how much to cut. I routed to give both a nice non-binding arc to the carb bracket.
Pull the inner wires way back out of the way before cutting. After install, then you can measure the inner wires to the correct length.
Both inner and outer cuts, take your time and measure multiple times to ensure you're happy with the length. After the cut, you can't go back and fix it.
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When cutting copper capillary tubes, which have very small id's, you do not want to crimp the tubes inner walls. We would use a small triangle file. I use the same method to cut small steel cables where I don't want to crimp the inner diameter. Score the sheath all the way around heavily then flex the sheath and it should break where scored. The steel sheaths take a little more time but you don't have to worry about damaging the inner wire.
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I think I used a junior hacksaw.
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so I noticed that my oil canister is different than what I see in pics and the plumbing is different too. The bottom does not go to the timing cover as there is no inlet in it. Must be not correct cover. Instead it goes to a custom inlet that dumps into the oil fill tube. The top of the canister is fed from the outlet below the fuel pump. Wondering if the plug in the block right next to the bottom of the fill tube is for coolant or oil?
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I'm stumped on the timing gear cover. There should be a fitting for the return hose. Hopefully someone else can explain that.
I'll also confess I've never seen a return plumbing like what you have on the oil filler tube.
You've correctly identified the "flow" from the port below the fuel pump to the top of the canister. That flow should exit at the bottom and flow to the timing gear cover. I don't see anything connected there (I do see the drain plug). The PO added hose goes up behind the canister so I assume it's disconnected.
Skip the first few images (older chain timing military) and scroll down to see that the canister looks similar and has good images on hook up:
https://www.cj3apage.com/index/My_1950/rebuilding_the_l134.htm
I did find a post on the 2A forum showing the different canisters:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/what-oil-filter-element-do-i-need_topic19963_post170539.html?KW=filter+canister#170539
There have been issues seeing some of the images. I usually just right click on the image icon and "open in a new tab/ window" to see it.
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Wow that's very helpful. I even lucked out getting the correct filter for it lol. I guess it works as plumbed but strange there isn't an inlet in the timing cover.
So what is the plug in the block next to the fill tube? A drain for coolant?
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Nevermind, just saw a picture of an engine with a petcock there. it's for coolant.
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Looks like you may have a pre-war engine there. Pre-oil filters. More photos would be helpful.
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ill take some photos when its stops raining. Its painted blue if I read right that's a rebuild?
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Blue paint means nothing more than it is painted blue.
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So I got working on the wiring harness I got from Walks. Its very impressive with the cloth shielding and color coding. I got new light switch completed and all of new gauges installed just waiting on the high beam indicator light to come in.
Few questions:
My jeep has the older style park lights so I ordered a new set from KW and I assume I have to solder in my own wires and connectors. Does anyone sell the wrapped wire for this? I like the look and wanted to keep it going.
Where do I wire the dash light to on the switch? Or do I do a separate toggle switch for that? I do have another hole far left on the dash witch would work for a toggle but was thinking on using it for a fender mounted blackout light for cool effect.
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My wiring harness (Vintage Wiring) had unfinished wires for the parking lights up front. The tail light connections were also missing. I asked why and the answer was too many variations. Some owners swap lights with replacements or generics so its easier to just have the wires with no ends on them. You can read how I fixed my parking/turn signal wires up front (as well as the tail lights) from the old 3B forum - yeah, still haven't moved that over to here yet, but I will.
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/green-gruntt-t4658-s20.html
You can connect your wires any way they need to be connected to make the parking lights work (I have no knowledge of what a KW light looks like on the inside). If they require soldering, I'd suggest a plug of some type so you can disconnect if needed.
The Tell Tale light and the instrument light are the only two lights on the "dash" and I've added below one thread discussing early 2A's having a separate switch for the dash light. Later models, the light is connected to the same light switch post for taillights - so that its on all the time whether first or second notch.
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/all-those-holes-in-the-dash_topic47281_post478793.html?KW=dash+light+switch#478793
Discussion on the other hole on the dash next to the light switch:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/headlight-switch-versus-heater-control-dash-holes_topic50637_post515837.html?KW=dash+light+switch#515837
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So this is what I got from KW and not sure how to connect it. I actually found some wires in the wire harness kit for the park lights and blinkers. Do I solder two wires to each one?
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I had to go to the KW website to look for those. They are advertised as for the recessed parking light. I think that is the style that sits behind the radiator guard on a mount that's 90 degrees to the hole. Someone with a 2A or 3A that has that type would need to verify or correct.
Approaching this piecemeal - in this way will make this more difficult. I went back and looked at your first post. It looks like you have parking lights that protrude out from your radiator guard. Possibly after market. You stated in an earlier post today that you ordered a new set of lights from KW. Was that post referring to these sockets? From their online catalog, I see several recessed styles. The LH and RH appear to differ only with the length of the wire. Then there's the recessed light set up for the dual filament bulb and then of course the later style.
It would help if you posted some images of those lights you intend to use; either the ones on your vehicle (from the first post) or the replacement KW lights - off your vehicle - so it would be easier to see if you have what you need. I can't tell from what I've seen so far. For me, if the lights themselves are replacements from KW they had better come with the socket and connectors ready to hook up - like what I see in the images on their site.
Specifically though, that part from KW is a spring loaded socket for a bulb. Since one wire goes in from the back (not sure how it makes contact with the bulb), it will require a single contact/single filament bulb. A dual filament bulb would need two wires and two contacts. Also, the slots on the sides of the socket for the bulb bayonets for a dual filament are typically offset so there's only one way to insert the bulb (ensuring the correct filaments are aligned with the correct wires). I've never seen the inside of a recessed parking light so I can't even guess how that fits.
On a related note, as much as they may be trying to help, these vendors will sell you an incorrect part having listed it as, "Correct for your vehicle," without any regard to some changes for that particular model or any consideration for a previous owner (PO) swapping a different part in from another vehicle to make something work (making the ordered part that's "correct" incompatible).
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the park lights from the first photo of my jeep were the plastic auto parts store junk stuck on with two sided tape. My grill has the cups in it vs the larger hole to fit the lights. Almost like the grill acts as the housing. I originally purchased the park lights with the angled back but they don't fit. I was told this kit was what is for that grille and would have to solder the wires but not sure how that socket stays in the grille...
They also sell a light that has the connectors straight out the back but wasn't sure if it would fit the cup and trying to avoid shipping costs etc.
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After further review I believe I have a cj2a grille. My jeep must be a very early CJ3A.
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Yes,
Initially, I thought you were describing this type:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/parking-light_topic3207.html
Again, guessing but I believe the above is a "bullet" style and for the earlier 2A's (similar to military).
I've seen more images now that may indicate at least '47 and '48 (maybe more) before the lights switched to what eventually showed up on the 3B.
I did find a thread describing that socket:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/parking-lights-front-grill-1947-cj2a_topic47531_post480952.html?KW=parking+light+socket#480952
Look at this image from Walck's showing the part disassembled:
https://walcks4wd.com/Socket-Parking-Light-All-1946-49-models-and-1949-53-CJ3A-_p_837.html
Also this thread:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/parking-light-connection_topic41890_post410234.html?KW=parking+light+socket#410234
indicating a possible nub on the end of the wire. See my parking light wires (had to get those extra from VW) but they're available (and if needed, KW SHOULD HAVE included them!).
I can tell you have an insulator on the back (the brown fiber disc that the wire threads through). See if your wire, insulation and all will slip through that sleeve in the center. If it does, I'd assume the wire needs a contact nub on the end. If only the stripped wire fits, then perhaps soldering directly to that sleeve is correct (not sure). If that is true, I'd be concerned though about the heat. Either way, the best way to solder is to "tin" the wire first so that when inserted (nub or sleeve on the socket) once the heat gets to it, you're not having to fill in with solder - its already on the wire. Cleaner too.
Here's what someone else did with a modern socket:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/lighting-questions_topic41309_post401110.html?KW=parking+light+socket#401110
I hope someone on this forum has a light like that and can share a good "how to" with images.
Good luck.
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What you got from KW are correct for CJ2-A’s, 1947 and up. I dont know about 3A’s, I dont have one.
The socket goes into the hole in the grille from the back. The hole should have a pair of “teeth” to hold the socket, kind of a reverse version of the bayonets on the bulb. The teeth have been removed from your grille’s holes, and I suppose the holes may be oversized as well.
BW
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What you got from KW are correct for CJ2-A’s, 1947 and up. I dont know about 3A’s, I dont have one.
The socket goes into the hole in the grille from the back. The hole should have a pair of “teeth†to hold the socket, kind of a reverse version of the bayonets on the bulb. The teeth have been removed from your grille’s holes, and I suppose the holes may be oversized as well.
BW
Bruce, thanks for jumping in with missing information! The "reverse bayonets" that should be there, are they easy to break off or does it take some deliberate effort?
Shark, sounds like its time to pick up a couple of generic sockets for now and that should fit under your lens.
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they actually fit perfectly. I soldered two wires into each one. The little metal ring goes in front and the spring and housing going in from the rear and its a two handed operation to get it to lock in. Lost a spring down in the grille but ran out of light. argh.
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Now I am trying to figure out how to finish connecting the wiring. I got a "new" remanufactured Delco alternator and using the Walck wiring harness. I bought a NOS voltage regulator but it sounds like I no longer need it? It does have the original starter which I understand will eventually go out but I am basically just trying to get it put together to run now.
I found this wiring diagram and hoping its correct for my setup? I'll need to figure out how to mount the solenoid to the starter. Im not sure the wire from alternator to ammeter is correct. Wouldn't it go to the solenoid + side or the battery+?
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If you have the original starter, it did not use a solenoid. One could be added. Are you intending to use the ignition switch to start and eliminate the floor starter switch?
The diagram you posted suggests a single wire alternator. Is that what you have?
Hopefully, someone that's done this can jump in and help.
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Grilles with the original “teeth” are pretty rare, Bubba has drilled or filed most of them out of there. Often the hole is opened up to near to or even greater than the size of the original lens retaining ring.
Soldered two wires? Where to? Only one is needed, and I think it used a bullet connector.
BW
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No teeth and I wired two wires per Walcks wire harness. One for park lights and one for the blinkers.
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Hi, don't think of the ammeter as a switch. The battery does go to the solenoid but via and through the ammeter. It doesn't break the connection just reads the amps as they pass through. If you put a test meter on it you would get continuity. Unless someone can correct me if you removed it and tied all the wires together it would still work.
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My cj3A doesnt have the floor mounted starter. It was probably removed by PO when new floor pan welded in. Just keyed start so it needs the solenoid which I understand mounted on the starter on some jeeps. Walcks wiring only goes that far so I can do that or extend wires to fender area.
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I'll need to figure out how to mount the solenoid to the starter......My cj3A doesnt have the floor mounted starter......so it needs the solenoid which I understand mounted on the starter on some jeeps.
Im not sure the wire from alternator to ammeter is correct. Wouldn't it go to the solenoid + side or the battery?
Lots to unpack. Nice illustration BTW!! Never seen that exploded view before. Nice addition to your library! While I'm at it, look very carefully at that bulb/socket/wire. That appears to be illustrating original. Just one wire, just one contact on the bottom of the bulb. The lights come on at the first notch and go off at the second notch of the switch. IF you are going to install a turn signal, all the parking/taillight wires have to go through that turn signal switch. Walck's is like every other vendor supplying a wiring harness; giving you a solution but not necessarily what you want/need - not all variations can be fixed or addressed - so you have to make the alterations.
On my parking lights, I told the wiring vendor (Vintage Wiring) that I had non-standard parking lights that already had 2 wires and a two-filament bulb. He used that to supply me with wires that would tie in.
On yours, Walck's two-wire setup may create a problem if you try and connect both wires together and run it to a single filament bulb. I suspect that, unless you change a few things, the turn signals won't be seen if you have the light switch pulled to the first notch. There is a way to make it all work with only one wire (and one filament bulb) but you're going to have to deviate from the two-wire setup (or change the socket to a two-wire type and use a 2-filament bulb).
For the starter, there's a real good article on the CJ3B Page on swapping a modern starter on an F-head that already has a solenoid on it. Finding one to match your ring gear is the trick. There are L-head owners that can guide you better on matching if you want to drop in a modern starter. Found this while searching alternator:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/flywheels-comparsion-pics_topic31855.html
http://www.cj3apage.com/index/Tech_Tips/StartersAndRinggears.htm
I would caution against trying to mount a solenoid on your starter. A solenoid can be mounted anywhere (usually on the fender or firewall for easy access) so don't force yourself into trying to get it mounted on the starter - especially if its "original" (6V?) which as you mentioned earlier will eventually wear out.
For the ammeter, I would suggest googling this. Some have swapped in a voltmeter but it seems most applications use an "idiot" light to signal a charging problem. Ensure your search includes hooking up to an ammeter vs. the other options.
Since your jeep has some "salad" qualities about it, i.e. a mix of different jeeps vs. one model/one year, think about researching other models - specifically the CJ2A. I regularly visit the 2A forum (because I have a Bantam trailer) and am amazed at the lively in-depth discussions they get into. Restoration to moderate modifications all the way to extreme deviations.
I searched for alternator wiring and got way too many returns to list them all but here are a few:
This is an example of others head-scratching with a Walck's harness (I forgot I added a comment about a wiring diagram - SAVE THAT LINK as I think it is an excellent interactive version to help with options, wire color etc).
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/walcks-wiring-harness_topic50269_post511436.html?KW=alternator+wiring#511436
From this link:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/electrical-wiring-and-harness_topic15283.html
I found this (this link BTW has the link to the interactive wiring harness that I've used before):
http://www.cj-2a.com/oldsite/elec/wiring/index.html
Scroll down to ALTERNATOR section.
Caution on ammeter connection (ensuring insulation):
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/wiring-questions-walcks-harness-install_topic49304_post501074.html?KW=alternator+wiring#501074
Long read, but I hope this helps answer some questions.
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wow this is awesome I think I figured it out
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I wired two wires per Walcks wire harness. One for park lights and one for the blinkers.
Two wires, both soldered to the same location on a single-contact light socket? Thats not going to work.
BW
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you're right Bruce. I just need to put in a 5 pin relay to operate the flashers.
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another question. When I fold my windshield down the center vent bolts just barely touch the hood. I have the bracket up as high as it can go. Is the windshield supposed to be slightly angled or level when laying down?
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Do you have the correct wood blocks on the hood? CJ2-A windshields lay flat, but it seems ive seen some CJ3A and M38 hoods higher at the front. Of course, I’ve seen some 2A windshields high at the front too. Wrong blocks.
BW
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another question. When I fold my windshield down the center vent bolts just barely touch the hood. I have the bracket up as high as it can go. Is the windshield supposed to be slightly angled or level when laying down?
Looking at your first post, I don't see any blocks on your hood. You can buy them or as some do, make your own.
https://cj3b.info/RedmondHood.html
I bought some and they are a little bit different but close to the posted dimensions for the 3B. Since you have a 3A/M38 style w/s, I wonder if they'd be similar.
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sorry yes I have the blocks on the hood now. I even added extra welting I had left over for padding. I need like another 1/2" max. In reading other threads I wonder if the old windshield has been bent backwards over the years. Id take a photo but raining like hell here in Charlotte.
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My first pair, I made (just wood screws up from underneath) made high enough to keep the non-stock w/s wiper arm from resting on the hood when down. Will have to wait and see what the correct w/s wipers look like with these blocks I bought that "were correct for your jeep" otherwise I'll make another set.
Use something to shim with until you get it to set the way you want.
The w/s frames can be adjusted. Yours may be a transplant and will be stiffer than a CJ-2A frame (not to mention will sit higher too). However, yours can still be bent. The only measurements I've seen are for the CJ3B.
W/S angle:
https://cj3b.info/Drawings.html
I can't recall seeing that published for the 2A or the 3A w/s. I'm not sure if If the clamps and seals are doing okay, but it may not be worth the effort to loosen the pivot brackets and move it around. It may be easier to cut some different blocks for it to rest on.
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I should have made my own but the local oak supply was pricier than just buying the blocks from KW. Id love to do rubber blocks if I could find a source where I could cut my own out.
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I should have made my own but the local oak supply was pricier than just buying the blocks from KW. Id love to do rubber blocks if I could find a source where I could cut my own out.
FANCY No need to unless you want to. My first set was a pine 2x4 cut down to what TLAR'd by eyeballing it - they looked just fine painted black. You can still add some rubber even to the ones you purchased. I'm thinking a short strip of junk tread that came off a tire (or floor mat section like from a tractor supply place). Or, cut a shim to fit under the blocks (matching the drilled holes) to raise them up. Oh, and another idea: You've checked on oak boards. Not sure what you have there, but here you can get custom cuts at the big box stores and pay for that. I wonder if you could sell it as a house project and only need a foot of oak and would they charge you just for that. Couldn't hurt to ask.
All this is to just get it to work for driving. Later on, you can get into details on how you want it set up.
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Being a carpenter for over 40 years tells me that all you have to do is use a hardwood of some kind!! It doesn't matter what you use! Just make sure that the blocks are high enough to keep any projections from outside windshield above the hood!! I care more about the protection of the hood paint that I do for any perfectionalist attitude!! I have a couple vehicles that I take to car shows and no one has ever commented on the size of the wooden hood blocks, or a lot of other subjects brought up on these sites. It's your vehicle, do as you please!! MHO!
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Yes this jeep is definitely not show quality by any means. I am a wood worker as well but the wood I do have in stock is set aside for projects. Im sure I can figure something out.
Got it running and went for a spin around the block. Just need to finish wiring the blinkers and horn up. Loved it and some neighbors came out to see what was going to see me with a big *crap eating grin as I drove by. I got back home to adjust the idle and I realized the alternator nut was loose and almost ran the battery dead. Shut it off to tighten it down and charged it for a while but then now won't start. Just clicking. I am not sure if the starter finally went out or the solenoid is bad. Maybe heat soak? Brand New battery. Ran out of light last night but this morning Im going to try again. Im going to try touching the starter cable to the positiver side of solenoid to see if it works. Otherwise I got drop another couple hundred on a dang starter. argh. Just about everything on this beast is new lol.
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Hopefully the battery just needs a decent charge.
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Yes this jeep is definitely not show quality by any means. I am a wood worker as well but the wood I do have in stock is set aside for projects. Im sure I can figure something out.
Got it running and went for a spin around the block. Just need to finish wiring the blinkers and horn up. Loved it and some neighbors came out to see what was going to see me with a big *crap eating grin as I drove by. I got back home to adjust the idle and I realized the alternator nut was loose and almost ran the battery dead. Shut it off to tighten it down and charged it for a while but then now won't start. Just clicking. I am not sure if the starter finally went out or the solenoid is bad. Maybe heat soak? Brand New battery. Ran out of light last night but this morning Im going to try again. Im going to try touching the starter cable to the positiver side of solenoid to see if it works. Otherwise I got drop another couple hundred on a dang starter. argh. Just about everything on this beast is new lol.
Congrats!!!!
A single click usually indicates a starter problem vs. battery. Shorting the solenoid is "shade tree 101" to isolate whether it's the starter or the solenoid. Also try tapping the starter a bit with a hammer (another shade tree thing) in case there's a bad spot the brushes are sitting on. Check and see if you can get a cheaper quote on a rebuild.
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starter is shot. I took it out and it has definitely come apart inside. New one(12V) ordered from KW. Luckily they are 2 hours away from me so I get stuff quickly. I can push start it for now. I have a steep driveway.
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progress photos:
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Nice, looks really good
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couple more
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Another question/issue. I installed a new emergency brake cable and at the end where it attaches to the cross member it does not go straight to the brake arm but rather comes out of the sheath and then angles sharply to the arm. The end clip has two holes one large one small to hold in in a certain position so I am confused. Here is pic I found on CJ2A on how its supposed to look:
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That clip should have a tab on it pointing down. The big hole is for the bolt/nut to secure the cable housing to the crossmember. The little hole is for the tab to align the cable housing with the direction the cable needs to be in alignment with the arm.
In this link, scroll down to find athawk11's post where he shows both ends of the cable housing and how each is anchored. That's a pretty good image of the lower clamp and you can see that tab in the smaller hole.
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/emergency-brake-adjustment_topic45190_post453785.html?KW=attach+hand+brake+cable#453785
If your clamp is missing the tab, it will spin and not hold its position. KW's offering for that clamp:
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/category/brakes/emergency-brakes/emergency-cable-clamp-at-transfer-case-fits-46-66-cj-2a-3a-3b-5-m38
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here's mine:
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It has the clamp. That's what I am confused about as it is not directing it like I thought it would
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I can see your images now.
That's one of the toughest places to get a good image. Everything seems to be in the way. The large hole in the crossmember should be for the bolt. It appears like the cable is very close to the rear engine support (under transmission) which is how mine is and what I've seen in other examples (incl the link I added earlier).
It's difficult to say for sure based on those images, but the cable conduit (housing) shouldn't be hugging the transmission on its way back, but allowed to flare out after the bell housing clip so it can align to that crossing angle needed for the internal cable.
Even if the conduit is in the clamp and the tab is in the crossmember hole, if its not secure the conduit can move. My parts manual says5/16" - 24 x 7/8" (I think I used 1" length). I wiggled and positioned first then clamped it down.
Look at these images for additional reference.
http://www.cj-2a.com/parts_list/index.php?load=detail&3192
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ill have to fuss with it more. Its not working anyways. I think I need to adjust the brake inside the housing. its not holding the jeep.
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Shark,
How long is the arm on your brake, from the pivot point to where the cable attaches? CJ5 and maybe some others used a longer arm that won’t work if the shorter one is corre. I believe that all of the flatfenders used the short arm. Ill get out and measure one of each here in a bit.
BW
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approx 5.5" pivot point to pivot point
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Got the blinkers connected and the taillights working so took it out for a spin today. Belt squeals a bit but ran like a top. Alternator has been a thorn in my side. However, towards the end of my trip when I would let off the gas there would be a slight whistling sound. Any idea? Maybe some kind of vacuum pull? I replaced the pcv filter so don't think it's that. I can't repeat the sound when sitting still and I move the throttle. It's really strange. I also noticed that its sucking a little oil into the air horn from the fill tube so I unhooked that. Now I'm wondering if its whistling there....
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I didnt get a chance to measure a lever but 5.5” sounds about right. The long one is considerably longer than that.
Oil in the crossover tube and air horn is a sign that the PCV system isn’t working. Whistle on deceleration is almost certainly a vacuum leak. If your PCV system isn’t complete and working properly it could explain both problems.
BW
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Hmm. I replaced the screen and rubber seal on it. I did notice a exhaust leak right at the down pipe wonder if that is adding to the issue?
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Hiya, on another subject, I think you suggested in one of your previous posts that you were replacing your solex. Did you do it and how did it go.
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I didnt get a chance to measure a lever but 5.5†sounds about right. The long one is considerably longer than that.
Oil in the crossover tube and air horn is a sign that the PCV system isn’t working. Whistle on deceleration is almost certainly a vacuum leak. If your PCV system isn’t complete and working properly it could explain both problems.
BW
To piggy back on Bruce's post, here's a couple of old posts showing the multiple arms possible:
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/viewtopic.php?p=44512#p44512
That first post I made has a link that won't work anymore. Had to dig, here's that original post from Charlie (good read):
https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/cj3b_bulletin_board/parking-brake-help-t4308.html
Hmm. I replaced the screen and rubber seal on it. I did notice a exhaust leak right at the down pipe wonder if that is adding to the issue?
You've got a flat head in your jeep. IIRC all the PCV plumbing is on the left side so easy to access and illustrate. When you say "screen and seal" the first thing I think about is the Crankcase Ventilator Body (bell shaped attachment sticking out from the valve cover with a bolt through the center). That's only the start of the ventilation system. Follow that tube to the PCV valve. It can be disassembled and cleaned.
F-head (with PVC valve parts):
http://cj3b.info/Tech/PCV.html
From above I believe this is the L-head illustration:
http://cj3b.info/Photos/Tech/ServiceBulletins/Bulletin508p3.jpg
The system won't work if that valve is clogged.
If you post images of what you have, it would be easier to identify what may be going on. My filler tube goop disappeared after I fixed the PCV and fixed the dipstick seal.
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Percy,
No sir. I ended up doing what you suggested and that was the trick.
-Nate
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I think mine only has the road draft tube on it. NO PCV
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I think mine only has the road draft tube on it. NO PCV
This topic has been covered a few times on our old forum pointing to draft tubes usage on vehicles other than CJs/ military.
See my link above on the PCV article on the CJ3B Page. The first section discusses the draft tube.
Here's a few images of the tube in place (Note: the valve cover is rotated 180 to position the tube in back):
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/interesting-l134_topic46087_post463086.html?KW=down+draft+tube#463086
(good image of L-head but odd angle position. If I were to guess, I'd say installer was trying to improve puddle or creek clearance)
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/my-first-jeep-not-sure-about-the-engine_topic35058_post330235.html?KW=down+draft+tube#330235
(scroll down to very last image showing F-head tube - in the correct position)
Have you been able to find the engine serial number on the flat boss above the water pump?
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I have never looked for the number. Didn't think it was necessary since it runs. The tube on mine is to the rear and straight down.
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Took it out for a spin and its driving great. The whistling sound has diminished. Almost like the heat from engine has swelled all of the metal to get the gaskets tighter lol. When I parked it I noticed some oil dripping. I tightened the oil pan which had some loose nuts but I also noticed this little hole in the bottom of the bell housing leaking tranny oil. small little drips. I couldn't find anything in my service manual. Is this little hole supposed to be plugged? If not why is oil seeping out? Over filled? The oil is a bit dirty so Im going to change it out tomorrow. See pic.
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As I understand it, the hole is there so you can see the oil drip (and let water run out after a creek crossing) vs. possibly having a puddle inside coating your clutch. Smell it. Gear oil has a "burnt" smell to it - very different from engine oil.
If gear oil, it's most likely coming from your transmission input shaft.
If it's engine oil, then the likely cause is the rear seal.
You could probably monitor it for a while using cardboard to catch the drips and check the transmission or engine level regularly. I've known driver's having to top off after each ride.
If your gear boxes are overfilled, there should be a breather on the transfer case and the overfill will spew out of that and coat everything (had that happen).
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yes it definitely gear oil. Im going to change it and see how it goes.
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Shark49,
Welcome! Nice procurement! How much do you know about its history? When I see the straps across the w/s vent, the first thing I think of is M38. Is that windshield a possible M38?
Good progress so far! If I may, a suggestion on #3. If you want your steering box to last, you'll need to use gear oil vs. grease. Some swear by 140 but I pulled the trigger and went back (originally grease - with all worn parts) with 80W gear oil (GL-4 or less). I did find some leaks but fixed those. I did, however, use grease to stick the loose bearings in place until I got the Tube and Cam set in place.
I assume If I use the same gear oil I'm using in the tranny this will be good? I plan on installing the tight steer while I have my jeep up.
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The currently available Service Manual (SM 1002-R6) lists MIL-L-2105B (I looked this up and as best as I can determine it is equivalent to API GL-4) or just GL-4 for most gear applications. Going beyond GL-4, ie. GL-5 etc. puts the shear additive too high to be safe for yellow metals.
This does not take away from the accuracy of the earlier Willys manuals that call for straight mineral oil or GL-1 etc.
I simplified the number of gear oils I needed to stock by using GL-4 85W-90 for all the gears, including differentials, since that gear oil is safe for everything. The only deviation is I used GL-4 140w in the knuckles (SM states GL-3 but the GL-4 is what I could find) since my axles had been changed. This gear oil is specified in SM 1046 where all knuckles were now Spicer (cardan cross) vs. the CV versions in the earlier jeeps.
So, after more words than probably necessary yes, the same oil in the steering gear as the transmission should be okay.
AFAIK, changing the gear oil in your transmission won't affect the leak. However, if you have no idea how long that oil has been in there, changing it could be a wise move. Eventually, when you have time, separating the transmission from the bell housing to see exactly what is leaking would be good.
Hang on to your steering adjustment screw/lock nut (keep it safe) as you may or may not want to go back to it after running the tight steer.
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Man the fluid in the tranny was brown like chocolate milk! I drained both and refilled with some nice GL-1 Gear oil I found at Napa. Did the rear differential today and it wasn't much better but ran out of oil. Once I finish that its on to the front differential and coolant.
Also getting a battery drain of about .6 amps with key off so I am thinking the ammeter(brand new) is wired incorrectly or a wire is touching and grounding out. Argh. That wiring link Russ linked is really helpful though. I should have bought a volt gauge instead.
Btw, just noticed the exhaust manifold has the pcv still connected but plugged off. So it has that AND the vent tube. Go figure....
Ordered a Willys works alt bracket, radiator hoses and header bolts and gaskets from KW. I think this thing eats more money than a boat! lol
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So based on my experience with my '61 pickup, I just pumped gear oil into my tranny until it came out the fill hole. I probity put in about 2.5 quarts. Now its leaking in tow spots. One spot is that same little tiny hole in the bell housing and another is somewhere at the emergency brake housing. Aren't they supposed to be sealed? Maybe I need new pinion seals or did I is ply just over fill it?
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Another question,
Today I took the jeep for a spin and stopped at a friends to say hi. When I tried to start it to leave it wouldn't start. Great spark but dry plugs. Plenty of fuel pressure and looking down into the carb I noticed a puddle of fuel at the bottom of the carb in the intake. What would cause this? Lack of vacuum? I had to remove a plug and spray starting fluid in a cylinder and it fired right up. I wonder if this has to do with the draft tube?
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So based on my experience with my '61 pickup, I just pumped gear oil into my tranny until it came out the fill hole. I probity put in about 2.5 quarts. Now its leaking in tow spots. One spot is that same little tiny hole in the bell housing and another is somewhere at the emergency brake housing. Aren't they supposed to be sealed? Maybe I need new pinion seals or did I is ply just over fill it?
I suspect your transmission/transfer case may have some seal issues. Filling it up to the fill hole is how you do it. It may be nearly impossible to "arm chair" without pulling some things to see. FWIW, I took apart my hand brake assembly 3 times before I fixed the leak. Then I found another at the bottom of the transmission from a stripped bolt. There's a guy on the 2A forum that had a leak on one of his jeeps. He didn't want to /have time to fix it right away so he rolled up an absorbent pad and laid it on top of the skid plate to "diaper" the gear box until he could work on it. Use some cardboard to see how bad it is. That will tell you whether you can take short drives or long drives.
Today I took the jeep for a spin and stopped at a friends to say hi. When I tried to start it to leave it wouldn't start. Great spark but dry plugs. Plenty of fuel pressure and looking down into the carb I noticed a puddle of fuel at the bottom of the carb in the intake. What would cause this? Lack of vacuum? I had to remove a plug and spray starting fluid in a cylinder and it fired right up. I wonder if this has to do with the draft tube?
I've flooded mine a few times. A puddle typically indicates too much fuel, i.e. flooding. I've mostly just let it sit or crank with the throttle wide open to give more air. Taking the plugs out and turning can speed that up. I've also sprayed starter fluid right down the carb hole into the manifold on a few occasions to get it started. Having a draft tube will eliminate back pressure in the block but may not help much with condensation (my preference would be to get the PCV system working and remove the draft tube). I would initially not think a vacuum leak (around carb) as you have a puddle - it makes me think you're too rich or pumped the pedal too much during starting.
Scoutpilot (and nearly everybody else!) will be better at carb issues than me.
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The crazy thing is when I emptied it originally quite a bit came out so its weird that its leaking but then again what was in it was this super thick sludge. Its probably the output yokes on either end. argh
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It will leak until the level drops low enough that the fluid is below the leak. That would take a long time.
It's hard to locate leaks sometimes. If the gear boxes are black/dirty/ wet then good luck. The skid plate underneath will allow it to scatter and drip in a different location. Regardless of what is leaking, i.e. engine, transmission or steering knuckle, cleaning it off and drying is a good start. The two worst places to identify where exactly it could be leaking from are the front of the transmission (although not too many options here) and the back of the transfer case. Is it the seal? the splines?
There is a dye made to add to oil to find leaks. I'm not that "hi-tech" so I just clean as best I can and then use a dry clean paper towel (or my fingers) and touch different locations to find the drip. It will most likely require some disassembly to just find it. When you remove the hand brake drum to look, gear oil will spill out so either drain a bit first or prop up the rear end (be safe on this) to keep oil from adding to the leak you're chasing.
After inspection of the leaking areas, you'll be able to identify what needs to be done. Guessing will just cost more and take longer.
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I replaced the copper spring on the exhaust flapper and it seems to reduce the hard start issues. Then my distributor went bad and stranded me. Thankfully the tow home was free since it was only 3 miles. Gotta love Hagerty!! I replaced the module and it fired right up. In the mean time Omix is sending me a brand new distributor and before that I ordered a standard one from KW. So I have two spares now ha! I finally got the pcv cover and tubes from KW and decided to take apart the manifolds and carb to replace a few bad stud bolts and replace bad gaskets. Couldn't get the dang manifolds separated due to rusted bolts. Ended up braking the intake manifold trying to tap it free. lol. So $175 later got some new parts coming in. I bought a 1/4" phenolic carb spacer I'm going to try too. One step forward.....
-Nate
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Was going for a ride the other day and hit a bump and pow pow pow backfiring like crazy. Pulled over and noticed my dizzy was loose. Tightened it up best I could and got home. Went to start it later and it was giving me issues to the point I ran my battery down. Put a charger on it and and then it wouldn't start. No spark at wires. WTF. So I ended up replacing the dizzy with a backup I had and after probably an hour of trying to get the damned thing to seat in the slot I got it running. Funny thing is I had to re-adjust everything it seems as it ran totally different than with the last dizzy. To clarify they are electronic dizzy is from Kaiser.
So first question is has anyone experienced a dizzy going bad from charging the battery? I thought the coil would prevent this? Also, with dizzy being same product, why did I have to readjust everything when installed 2nd one? I also had a points distributor from Kaiser and I couldn't get it to even fit in the hole. Super tight with the rubber ring on it so I gave up.
Is there a better HEI dizzy out there? I assume Kaisers are OMIX? I have read some guys just putting a pertronix kit in a points body?
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Front right brake is sticking and I have to tap it a bunch to loosen. I tried to adjust the eccentrics but it is still dragging. Guess it could be something else. I need to remove the front drum but not sure what to do once I get the nuts off the locking hub?
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So first question is has anyone experienced a dizzy going bad from charging the battery? I thought the coil would prevent this? Also, with dizzy being same product, why did I have to readjust everything when installed 2nd one? I also had a points distributor from Kaiser and I couldn't get it to even fit in the hole. Super tight with the rubber ring on it so I gave up.
Is there a better HEI dizzy out there? I assume Kaisers are OMIX? I have read some guys just putting a pertronix kit in a points body?
You've been having some "fun" with odd issues. I can't give you an opinion on the electronic distributors as I've never used one. I can speak to basic electrical systems. Your Service Manual (SM) will also explain how these components work - I still pull mine out to read up on things when I'm unclear or needing a reminder.
The battery does just two things: Start and provide backup electricity. The charging system does everything else. So not to my knowledge, has charging a battery ever damaged any other electrical component. The circuit would have to be on just to have electricity flow through that component and even then, most components would need to be used to be affected.
The coil is necessary to boost the spark that travels to the plugs. There is a primary lead that goes from the (-) coil to the distributor side. I know from personal experience if that wire is disconnected or grounded, the engine won't run.
Knocking your distributor loose is, in and of itself, an issue. It shouldn't be that loose. Putting it back in on the side of the road is a challenge (alignment and timing) so kudos for getting it back home! I would have re-confirmed its installation and alignment after getting home. Draining the battery while doing this has been done a lot - by many. It is possible (I know) to install 180 out so rechecking a static TDC is a smart move.
A mechanical interference on fitment is an issue you need to bring up with the supplier. We do have problems with quality - so it's on you to ensure your installation and tuning steps are per the SM. You can search here or read up on the CJ3B Page about electronic options.
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Front right brake is sticking and I have to tap it a bunch to loosen. I tried to adjust the eccentrics but it is still dragging. Guess it could be something else. I need to remove the front drum but not sure what to do once I get the nuts off the locking hub?
Without any more details, I'd assume your wheel cylinder is sticking. Again, the SM will actually walk you through all the steps of disassembly. I assume you have the later style hubs where the drum slides off the hub. If so, you may not even need to bother the locking hubs. If your drum is behind the hub, then the whole assembly needs to be removed. If that's the case, just remove the locking hub and set it off to the side and then the rest is per the SM.
Have you bled the brakes at some point? Backing off the eccentrics to stop a dragging shoe won't help you. You'll apply pressure and the fluid will force the wheel cylinder pistons out (using up more master cylinder fluid reserve) to get the shoes to make contact. Then the sticking pistons will cause a drag at that new adjustment. Crud builds in the lines and bleeding is necessary to flush this out to prolong your system's operation.
At a minimum, you'd need to rebuild (my preference) or replace both wheel cylinders. I won't do a one-wheel brake job. It is common practice to always match the left and right on an axle. Be aware that it's also possible that if you've driven for a while, the shoes will be worn. If you haven't driven much, the shoes on that wheel may still be okay. Another tidbit to consider, if you don't know when any brake work has been performed, you can assume the other cylinders (including master cylinder) are in similar condition and may need servicing.
One of those "life skills" I was taught long ago was how to rebuild a cylinder (and caliper). Nowadays, replacement parts are easy to get, so many will elect to just replace (I did that and ended up rebuilding as a couple of them started to leak). Once you've got that bad cylinder (and its mate on the other side) sorted out, you'll need to bleed to get the air out. And you'll need to readjust the eccentrics.
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So first question is has anyone experienced a dizzy going bad from charging the battery? I thought the coil would prevent this? Also, with dizzy being same product, why did I have to readjust everything when installed 2nd one? I also had a points distributor from Kaiser and I couldn't get it to even fit in the hole. Super tight with the rubber ring on it so I gave up.
Is there a better HEI dizzy out there? I assume Kaisers are OMIX? I have read some guys just putting a pertronix kit in a points body?
You've been having some "fun" with odd issues. I can't give you an opinion on the electronic distributors as I've never used one. I can speak to basic electrical systems. Your Service Manual (SM) will also explain how these components work - I still pull mine out to read up on things when I'm unclear or needing a reminder.
The battery does just two things: Start and provide backup electricity. The charging system does everything else. So not to my knowledge, has charging a battery ever damaged any other electrical component. The circuit would have to be on just to have electricity flow through that component and even then, most components would need to be used to be affected.
The coil is necessary to boost the spark that travels to the plugs. There is a primary lead that goes from the (-) coil to the distributor side. I know from personal experience if that wire is disconnected or grounded, the engine won't run.
Knocking your distributor loose is, in and of itself, an issue. It shouldn't be that loose. Putting it back in on the side of the road is a challenge (alignment and timing) so kudos for getting it back home! I would have re-confirmed its installation and alignment after getting home. Draining the battery while doing this has been done a lot - by many. It is possible (I know) to install 180 out so rechecking a static TDC is a smart move.
A mechanical interference on fitment is an issue you need to bring up with the supplier. We do have problems with quality - so it's on you to ensure your installation and tuning steps are per the SM. You can search here or read up on the CJ3B Page about electronic options.
I didn't think the charger would do anything but I had it on 20amp start mode so my thinking was the simplicity of the system may have caused something. Anyhow, It ended up being a bad distributor body. internal bearing went bad or something and it literally tore itself apart from inside. I got a new one for free from Omix. I use that as my backup and got a crown one as well as a higher voltage coil. I also double checked all grounds to be sure.
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The brakes were redone by a friend so less than 500 miles on them with brand new tires too but it has always pulled to the right so it is probably as you said it could have crud in it or just weren't bled very well.. Not knowing how the eccentrics worked I loosened them and turned them a bunch so its possible the copper washers are bad so id like to look inside to see what's going on.. I finally figured out that I needed to unscrew the Crome ring from the locking hub first then I can get to the snap ring and then remove everything. I bought a bendex tool online for the eccentrics and will see what its all about once the drum is removed.
Odd things is right but I am used to it and have earned my skinned knuckles on my '61 Apache 10
-Nate
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Hi, Been a while but had a question I saw an answer to at one time but now can't find it. Does anyone know what size headlight fixture fits in the blacklight assembly?
thanks in advance,
Nate