My Willys 3A and 3B Community
TECH FAQ SECTIONS => EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips => Topic started by: tow hook on September 14, 2021, 03:10:09 PM
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i have a 62 3b with a dana 18 case an a stewart warner gauge. i got a new speedo cable. the gauge reads some times, or will be stuck at my last speed when parked. i unhooked the cable at the case, and spun it in rev with a drill. the gauge works well, goes up and down quickly. i pulled the speedo gear... what a mess, i didn't think the gear was covered in oil .....looked it over, ( teeth look fine ) and reinstalled. same issue as before.
but when speedo is reading or not....here is the kicker the mileage tenths is turning !
any thoughts ? i 'd say the issue in the gears of the t case. but why would it be stuck at 10mph when parked ? the gear oil in the case looks thick. i took it to a shop to have the leaks fixed. so the oil was changed from what i did, i ran napa mineral oil in when i did the the t-case the first time.
thanks for any thoughts
brian
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Hi, that's a new one but I think it's a faulty guage. The cable should turn regardless of the type of oil in the case. The fact that the needle doesn't return to zero when stopped suggests to me that it's the guage with an intermittent fault.
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thanks.
after watching the walcks 4wd video, it a pears you can oil the speedo gauge, i'm going to try that
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https://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jt1MM
https://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jte6y
got the gauge out, going to the store later for some 3 in 1 oil, and repaint the arms as well. i'll post a up date when i get in back in.
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I tore apart a faulty gauge recently and found it to be really gunky inside. The return spring was bent and gummy, and had similar behavior to yours. If you feel comfortable enough opening yours up, you can take a look. I went ahead and found a direct replacement for mine. (the odometer wasn't working either, and the socket at the back was bored out)
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My intermittent speedo was due to a dirty drive housing binding the "flexible" cable. Cleaned it out, and oiled with a light oil, and it then worked fine. Be careful, the needle and those numbers on the odometer are very fragile, and oil and/or touching them might damage the decal or "break the needle shaft". Don't ask me how I know. :-(
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thanks, i undid the two scews that hold the gauge in to the housing, and used electrical contact cleaner ( there was some old lube/ grease on the gears) and a soft tooth brush to clean up the gears.
i got some 3 in 1 oil from the store. (the walack's video suggest sewing machine oil. i wouldn't have a clue as were they would sell that locally.) there is a weighted drum in the back of the dial that attaches to the speedo needle. now oiled it returns to 0 very smoothy . i'm going to paint the needle and reinstall. and let you know how it goes.
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i cleaned old grease, and ? of the speedo gears and lubed it with 3 in 1 oil. test drove the needle sits just over 10mph. never went above that. i pulled the t case end of the cable off, and test ran with a drill. worked well returned to 0 every time. re drove it same out come. now sitting at a just a tad over 10mph. erff just my luck
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Bad worm gear in the t-case?
following....uh...more. HAHA Lemme know when you find a good source. You and I might be in the same jeep ;)
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Try loosening the cable nut on the back of the speedo just a bit. Say 1/2 to 1turn. If the cable is too long it can put pressure on the gear and on the mechanism inside the head which can cause this condition. Loosening the nut can resolve it.
BW
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Bad worm gear in the t-case?
following....uh...more. HAHA Lemme know when you find a good source. You and I might be in the same jeep ;)
It looked fine when I did it, but the case was cracked , when I had it out for other work a used case swapped over. But reused my guts …… So I d think the guy who did it would have saw that an made it right .
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Try loosening the cable nut on the back of the speedo just a bit. Say 1/2 to 1turn. If the cable is too long it can put pressure on the gear and on the mechanism inside the head which can cause this condition. Loosening the nut can resolve it.
BW
Thanks I will try that, the mileage tenths still click off. If loosening the cable doesn’t work I may pull the cable out of the fire wall an have my pass hold the speedo when i drive. Or find I spare speedo an try it, then I d know it it’s the cable or the Speedo .
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at the mason Dixon show i had some help with the speedo, it would appear to be that the worm gear in the t-case may be bad ? so i will pull that over winter and check it over. thanks for the help , i'll update when get it apart
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Just stop and THINK about that. The job of the two gears in the transfer case is to turn the cable. The job of the speedo head is to tell you how fast it is turning. When the jeep stops, the two gears stop, the qcable stops, and the speedo head should tell you “zero”. There is no way that a bad speedo gear could cause the head needle to remain at 10mph when the jeep is stopped. A bad gear can make the speedo jump or bounce or quiver, or not work at all, but not if the gears are not moving.
The speedo returned to zero out of the vehicle or with the cable disconnected. Did you try loosening the cable?
BW
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Hiya, I still suspect a faulty guage. Is there any chance that you could swap it out for a known good one just to be sure?
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Have you looked to see if something like the needle is touching the face of the gauge is limiting the movement? Those needle indicators are very "fragile". Please don't ask me how I know.
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Lots of good input here. Frustrating that logging out to read is still an issue. I once owned a Subaru that had a stuck speedometer. It needed cleaning but then I had to re-calibrate it. Thankfully, it was simply mechanical without any electronics. I used oil, as you did, but only to free it up. I seem to recall using a light grease as some friction seems to help with a smooth movement.
The good news is you can test each component separately. Everything noted so far, I would have tried.
i cleaned old grease, and ? of the speedo gears and lubed it with 3 in 1 oil. test drove the needle sits just over 10mph. never went above that. i pulled the t case end of the cable off, and test ran with a drill. worked well returned to 0 every time. re drove it same out come. now sitting at a just a tad over 10mph. erff just my luck
First, in my limited experience, I've noticed a shoulder or crimped-on washer around the cable itself. I put that at the top. To me, that sets the depth the cable will be at inside the speedometer. The bottom end just has to engage the gear's hole/slot. If reversed, I believe the cable could slide too far down to not fully engage the gauge. Or the opposite compensation: Cut that cable longer to fully engage even if upside down and then I can imagine binding.
Both ends of the cable should be square. If rounded off on either end, it may slip inside one end or the other. The cable needs to be lubricated. The housing can wear and if enough wear is present, it can interfere with and possibly damage the cable itself. This was the problem with my first cable. I loosened both ends and twisted the housing 180 to put the worn side on the "inside" of the cable's bend on its way down to the transfer case (cable then contacted the opposite undamaged side). Problem solved (short term but eventually got replaced). If the cable ends show signs of being rounded off, perhaps the gear drive or the speedometer socket could also have wear (I imagine a cable trying to turn a stuck speedometer - the weak link has to give).
Back in the day, when I tested and fixed my speedo problem, it never occurred to me to test with a drill. I used my fingers to twist the cable (disconnected from transfer case and pulled out from under the jeep) and observed a small jump in the needle. That told me the gauge was working. You could also do the same thing in reverse: Disconnect from the back of the speedo and while holding that cable housing observe as you allow the jeep to creep forward in gear. Is the cable spinning? Apply a gloved finger pinch to create back pressure. Does it still turn between your fingers?
As you keep troubleshooting, you'll eventually figure out what isn't working - the drive gear (the slot - can't imagine the actual gear could be damaged), the cable or the gauge.
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Rus basically nailed the problem with mine here. I sourced an exact copy gauge that was in brand new condition from ebay (nippon seiki with 0.5 miles on it). It appears to have never been opened. It wasn't until I compared the old and new side by side that it became apparent how bored out the socket was on the old one. I assume it would intermittently 'catch' on the cable and this is what caused wild fluctuations as well as being stuck at some non-zero speed when at a full stop. Also explains why running it directly with a drill worked (because the bit was a different size than the cable end), though, doesn't really explain why running it with a drill on the cable worked. The old gauge had a lot of problems...in any case, the new speedo is working like a charm, is very accurate (compared it to GPS) and I haven't seen a wild bounce yet.
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Just stop and THINK about that. The job of the two gears in the transfer case is to turn the cable. The job of the speedo head is to tell you how fast it is turning. When the jeep stops, the two gears stop, the qcable stops, and the speedo head should tell you “zero”. There is no way that a bad speedo gear could cause the head needle to remain at 10mph when the jeep is stopped. A bad gear can make the speedo jump or bounce or quiver, or not work at all, but not if the gears are not moving.
The speedo returned to zero out of the vehicle or with the cable disconnected. Did you try loosening the cable?
BW
i do hear you, i'm scraping for any ideas.... i have loosen it a half turn at the rear of the speedo. its not turning at all now ( mileage is working ) :( when i unhook the cable at the t-case the needle drops to 0 . when i run the cable with a drill it works just fine. i've done that now 4 or 5 times... thanks for your help. i thought i saw a guy who does old gauge repairs.
https://www.bobsspeedometer.com/ i'm sure he's one of many. i'll give him a ring
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Rus basically nailed the problem with mine here. I sourced an exact copy gauge that was in brand new condition from ebay (nippon seiki with 0.5 miles on it). It appears to have never been opened. It wasn't until I compared the old and new side by side that it became apparent how bored out the socket was on the old one. I assume it would intermittently 'catch' on the cable and this is what caused wild fluctuations as well as being stuck at some non-zero speed when at a full stop. Also explains why running it directly with a drill worked (because the bit was a different size than the cable end), though, doesn't really explain why running it with a drill on the cable worked. The old gauge had a lot of problems...in any case, the new speedo is working like a charm, is very accurate (compared it to GPS) and I haven't seen a wild bounce yet.
my current gauge is from a early cj 5.( the old o.e. gauge was total unreadable.) the early 5 gauge came with a whole dash that i bought, the speedo cable was cut off but still in it. looked very much the same to me ... maybe that/s my issue ???
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Hi Tow Hook, that really is the weirdest thing.
Sorry if I am covering old ground but from what you just wrote could it be an issue with the length of the inner cable.
You suggest that it returns to zero when it is undone at the t-case? So is it worth doing that and attaching the dril again however this time apply a little forward pressure to see if the problem remains and then a little rearward pressure to see if it resolves it.
I wonder if when you screw it into the t-case it forces the cable into the back of the speedo causing the problem?
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To quote myself: “There is no way that a bad speedo gear could cause the head needle to remain at 10mph when the jeep is stopped.”
There may be a way. If there is dirt or a rock or some other debris, or a broken end of a cable from a previous repair in the hole in the driven gear where the cable goes, it could put pressure on the head, through the cable. How far does your cable go into the gear? Does it go in far enough to allow the cable housing seat on the gear adapter without screwing down the nut? Will the upper end of the housing seat against the back of the speedometer easily, without tightening the nut? Now I’m thinking that there may be something in the gear, inside the square hole that receives the cable, or in the square hole in the head, or the cable is too long. Both ends of the housing should seat easily against their respective receivers and the nuts should tighten easily by hand, without pliers or any other tools.
BW
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Hi Tow Hook, that really is the weirdest thing.
Sorry if I am covering old ground but from what you just wrote could it be an issue with the length of the inner cable.
You suggest that it returns to zero when it is undone at the t-case? So is it worth doing that and attaching the dril again however this time apply a little forward pressure to see if the problem remains and then a little rearward pressure to see if it resolves it.
I wonder if when you screw it into the t-case it forces the cable into the back of the speedo causing the problem?
i have not. i have talked to bob's speedos in howell mish, the cable could be jamming up in the speedo. i plan to take a 1/8" off the cable. if not it's top end 400$ to fix the speedo. they do free est :)
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To quote myself: “There is no way that a bad speedo gear could cause the head needle to remain at 10mph when the jeep is stopped.”
There may be a way. If there is dirt or a rock or some other debris, or a broken end of a cable from a previous repair in the hole in the driven gear where the cable goes, it could put pressure on the head, through the cable. How far does your cable go into the gear? Does it go in far enough to allow the cable housing seat on the gear adapter without screwing down the nut? Will the upper end of the housing seat against the back of the speedometer easily, without tightening the nut? Now I’m thinking that there may be something in the gear, inside the square hole that receives the cable, or in the square hole in the head, or the cable is too long. Both ends of the housing should seat easily against their respective receivers and the nuts should tighten easily by hand, without pliers or any other tools.
BW
cable is brand new, and yes it goes together easy should i tighten/ snug up the t case side with a wrench ? i plan to take off a 1/8" and see how it goes. i did loosen up the speedo end by a 1/2 turn. me do the same on the t case side. before i cut. as per the wacks video on the speedo cables they are the right lenght.
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Read again the last sentence in my last post. No tools should be needed. If either end requires pliers or a wrench it may have been cross-threaded and the threads damaged. They’re very difficult or impossible to get straight after that. The M38 and M38A1 had a hex nut on the bottom of the cable so they could be snugged with a wrench, but they were meant to be waterproof. Your cable should only have a knurled nut to be tightened by fingers only.
BW
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Read again the last sentence in my last post. No tools should be needed. If either end requires pliers or a wrench it may have been cross-threaded and the threads damaged. They’re very difficult or impossible to get straight after that. The M38 and M38A1 had a hex nut on the bottom of the cable so they could be snugged with a wrench, but they were meant to be waterproof. Your cable should only have a knurled nut to be tightened by fingers only.
BW
so over the weekend i had some time to look at it.
threads are ok.
test drive 1 speedo it a 1/2 turn loose, loosened up cable on t case end an test drove no change,
test drive 2 loosened up the t-case side more ( hand tite) same/ no change in speedo
test drive 3 removed cable ( speedo reset to 0 ), and took a 1/8" off the end. made t case end in hand tite as i could .test drove speedo didn't move much at all. got stuck at 9 mph i will chaage my tom tom and ck speed vs gps on next test drive
sat night i talked to a fella in my local jeeo club, his cj 5 speedo would get stuck at times, his cable was 1/4" too long
could be my issue ? should i take more off ?
thanks for all the help
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If it was me then yes, in my mind everything is pointing to a cable issue and it can only be the length of the inner (assuming you have the right cable in the first place). I would grind or file a bit off at a time till it works.
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If it was me then yes, in my mind everything is pointing to a cable issue and it can only be the length of the inner (assuming you have the right cable in the first place). I would grind or file a bit off at a time till it works.
yes, if some had a known good cable and could send me the length. that would be great. i'd hate to spend a whole day filing down a cable. i'll probley take another 1/8 " off later an see how it goes.
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With one end connected and it’s nut finger tight, and the nut on the other end slid back out of the way, will the cable housing slide easily up to its mating surface, where the nut would normally hold it? If it doesn’t and you have push it up tight, as if there is spring tension in the cable, the inner cable is too long. Everything should fit together with no effort and no tools.
BW
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With one end connected and it’s nut finger tight, and the nut on the other end slid back out of the way, will the cable housing slide easily up to its mating surface, where the nut would normally hold it? If it doesn’t and you have push it up tight, as if there is spring tension in the cable, the inner cable is too long. Everything should fit together with no effort and no tools.
BW
let me check it over today. i don't recall any tension. i'll put the cable in the t case lose, an go up the street an tighten it a tad each time and see what that gets me. it should work till there is tension on it.
thanks again
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i took it for a drive with the speedo t case nut about a turn on to the threads, and the speedo goes up and down, a tad slow, but it works
so i just trim the cable down till the nut is on hand tite ?
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Yes, if it was mine I would trim the cable. Everything points to it being too long.
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With the inner cable (shaft is the correct term) seated on both ends and one end housing nut finger tight, slide the loose end of the housing toward its seat until you feel resistance. The distance between the housing end and its seat is the amount you want to cut off, adding just a 1/16” or so to your cut. A tiny bit short is better than a tiny bit long.
BW
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With the inner cable (shaft is the correct term) seated on both ends and one end housing nut finger tight, slide the loose end of the housing toward its seat until you feel resistance. The distance between the housing end and its seat is the amount you want to cut off, adding just a 1/16” or so to your cut. A tiny bit short is better than a tiny bit long.
BW
ok, i'll start to trim. till both ends are seated.
thanks
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it took a few trys but we are good, i got out my old tom tom and did a gps on the speed. it's really close to what the speedo says.
thanks every one
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Happy days, glad it's sorted
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Well done!
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Well done!
thanks, now to rebuild the steering gear box. an get the slop out of the steering wheel. i'll be ready for the open road
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I did a write up on steering box rebuild here:
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5218.0
And I'm available any time for questions.
Hope it helps!
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I did a write up on steering box rebuild here:
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5218.0
And I'm available any time for questions.
Hope it helps!
thanks, the play i have is in the pit man arm bushings. with the hood open, when i look down over the top of the steering box, an move the wheel. i can see the sector shaft/ pit man arm move as i turn the wheel left an right. i also have a good bit of dead space in the wheel. my plan is to put new bushings in and a steer tite set up. thx for you help
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To get at those bushings, you'll need to tear down the entire box. I'd also advise looking for NOS bushings on Ebay or find someone with a lathe (there's a gentleman named Sal Walter that makes bushings for the upper steering column, he may be able to help here?). The re-pops are no good and the small inner bushing slid in and out of the housing(it should require pressing). You may also need a 7/8" reamer for these same bushings (if your NOS is indeed and not take-off)
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If the bushing are worn, the shaft probably is too. It’s a waste of time and money to do it halfway. I’ve never had any problems with Carl Walck’s bushings and they will need to be reamed, which is good. Tite-Steer is not a cure for worn steering parts, even the mfg. says so. IMO, it’s a waste of $80
BW
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Agreed! Don't half way it!
Got my bushings from DeBella so that might be why. Agree about tight steer too. I bought one, but with the box properly rebuilt, don't need it.
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To get at those bushings, you'll need to tear down the entire box. I'd also advise looking for NOS bushings on Ebay or find someone with a lathe (there's a gentleman named Sal Walter that makes bushings for the upper steering column, he may be able to help here?). The re-pops are no good and the small inner bushing slid in and out of the housing(it should require pressing). You may also need a 7/8" reamer for these same bushings (if your NOS is indeed and not take-off)
thanks, i got rid of my org box :'(. in favor of a herm's ford ranger rev rotation box. it wasn't a great idea. so i got a early 5 box.( cheap an very local to me ) an got a new sector sharft to put in it. (not a nos part) the shaft seemed tite when i put it in.
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If the bushing are worn, the shaft probably is too. It’s a waste of time and money to do it halfway. I’ve never had any problems with Carl Walck’s bushings and they will need to be reamed, which is good. Tite-Steer is not a cure for worn steering parts, even the mfg. says so. IMO, it’s a waste of $80
BW
i used a made in china shaft,the box was missing the shaft when i got it used... would the nos bushing still work? when you say reamed... to fix the box or the shaft ?
thanks
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Agreed! Don't half way it!
Got my bushings from DeBella so that might be why. Agree about tight steer too. I bought one, but with the box properly rebuilt, don't need it.
thanks
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when you say reamed... to fix the box or the shaft ?
When the sector shaft bushings go in, they'll compress slightly (and may even be made at a slightly smaller ID?). They need to be a perfect 0.875" after they're inserted (to accept the sector shaft, which I recall is about a 1/1000th smaller). Hence the hand reamer. This affords a tight fit, with a small enough space for oil to encompass the shaft. This is only if you're putting new bushings in. If there are old ones there, they *might* be ok? but that's not something I'll be able to answer.
When you're done rebuilding, use very viscous oil, not a grease. Metalshaper sells 1000W stuff at about $30 a quart (you'll use about a third of that). I bought some. Couldn't be happier with it.
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Made in China shaft - - don’t tell me, let me guess - Omix-ADA? Kaiser-Willys? Perhaps you would do well to read up on the Omix-ADA shafts that were BREAKING in use. Learn how to identify the bad shafts and avoid them. The problem has supposedly been corrected.
After installation in the box, the bushings (should) need to be reamed to the correct inside diameter to match the shaft with the proper amount of clearance for lube. If yours is “tight” but you can push it in and out and turn it by hand, it’s probably alright. DON’T hone it with a brake cylinder hone. The hone will leave abrasive particles embedded in the bushings which will cause premature wear on the shaft and the bushings. All jeeps from 1941 to 1971 except M38, M38A1, and V-6 CJ5’s use the same shaft and bushings.
BW
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when you say reamed... to fix the box or the shaft ?
When the sector shaft bushings go in, they'll compress slightly (and may even be made at a slightly smaller ID?). They need to be a perfect 0.875" after they're inserted (to accept the sector shaft, which I recall is about a 1/1000th smaller). Hence the hand reamer. This affords a tight fit, with a small enough space for oil to encompass the shaft. This is only if you're putting new bushings in. If there are old ones there, they *might* be ok? but that's not something I'll be able to answer.
When you're done rebuilding, use very viscous oil, not a grease. Metalshaper sells 1000W stuff at about $30 a quart (you'll use about a third of that). I bought some. Couldn't be happier with it.
thanks, i'm looking on e bay for a7/8" reamer any tips ? at grainger they are close to 200$
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Made in China shaft - - don’t tell me, let me guess - Omix-ADA? Kaiser-Willys? Perhaps you would do well to read up on the Omix-ADA shafts that were BREAKING in use. Learn how to identify the bad shafts and avoid them. The problem has supposedly been corrected.
After installation in the box, the bushings (should) need to be reamed to the correct inside diameter to match the shaft with the proper amount of clearance for lube. If yours is “tight” but you can push it in and out and turn it by hand, it’s probably alright. DON’T hone it with a brake cylinder hone. The hone will leave abrasive particles embedded in the bushings which will cause premature wear on the shaft and the bushings. All jeeps from 1941 to 1971 except M38, M38A1, and V-6 CJ5’s use the same shaft and bushings.
BW
um ya it's a kaiser willys :( what is the difference between kaiser willys and walcks ? it's all made in china ? right...? i'm guessing mid west willys would have a good used one ? either way i'll have a ream the new bushings.... any thoughts on the best place to get them? i though k/w was a good place..... maybe not ?
thanks for the early 5 tip. i just read the some 5's take a 15/16" shaft :o
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I can't find the listing now but I got mine on Amazon. And I believe the company that sold it was Sonoran Tool Supply or something. "7/8" Hand reamer spiral flute" you can save some cost with a High Speed Steel one, as opposed to carbide. You probably won't be doing this often enough to necessitate a the latter.
Get spiral flute because the straight ones end up hitching a little bit. I'm cooking burgers at this exact moment but I'll run inside and see if I can find more info for you in a little bit.
UPDATE: I picked up one very similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008SBPSWS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_68CRVTW6JMZ37JX4ZWG3
Regarding the dangerous sector shafts...
Here's a link I got when I looked into building my box. It describes what to look for.
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=2116.msg17975#msg17975
and here's the full thread with way more goodies
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=5152.msg39671#msg39671
and the recall pdf
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/uploads/2300/Steering_Sector_Shaft_Recall.pdf
(whew!)
The bad ones have a weld running along the edge of the shaft here instead of being cast/pressed (both?)
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wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one
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wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one
Yeah, seems like they "corrected the problem". However, it's important to be able to identify the bad parts as someone might part out a jeep they don't know much about. If one was put in by a previous owner, then bad shafts make their way back out on the market.
Always willing to help someone out when I can. Speaking of....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291645257603?epid=15024469219&hash=item43e7697783:g:1RAAAOSwGI9btg6L
Just sayin' ;) This is where I got mine, so I can attest to getting what was advertised.
I dont' see any NOS sector shaft's available anymore, unfortunately. Make sure you get the 7/8ths one tho. M-38's and M-38A1's are larger diameter (and I think the truck ones are also not interchangeable)
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wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one
Yeah, seems like they "corrected the problem". However, it's important to be able to identify the bad parts as someone might part out a jeep they don't know much about. If one was put in by a previous owner, then bad shafts make their way back out on the market.
Always willing to help someone out when I can. Speaking of....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291645257603?epid=15024469219&hash=item43e7697783:g:1RAAAOSwGI9btg6L
Just sayin' ;) This is where I got mine, so I can attest to getting what was advertised.
I dont' see any NOS sector shaft's available anymore, unfortunately. Make sure you get the 7/8ths one tho. M-38's and M-38A1's are larger diameter (and I think the truck ones are also not interchangeable)
i got my shaft around a year or 2 ago. i did print the recall info when i take the box apart i will ck it over. thanks i didn't see any nos shafts avl either :(
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See the picture posted by JON above, with the circled area. If you find a weld bead around that center button or anywhere on that face, it is one of the “bad” shafts. All others, as in the one shown, are”supposed” to be ok. That just means that none have broken yet.
I believe that the originals were forged as one piece and machined, with the “buttons or teeth” being the only added parts.
BW
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See the picture posted by JON above, with the circled area. If you find a weld bead around that center button or anywhere on that face, it is one of the “bad” shafts. All others, as in the one shown, are”supposed” to be ok. That just means that none have broken yet.
I believe that the originals were forged as one piece and machined, with the “buttons or teeth” being the only added parts.
BW
thanks for the info. i read my copy of a orginal service manual. in section O :" steering " it didn't talk about the steering box bushings, or a reamer ... when did the reamer come in to play to make the .001 tolerance? it just said if bushings are bad, replace them.....
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“Back in the day”, as you younkers are fond of saying, reaming of new bushings was the way it was done. A shaft would almost never fit and run in an un-reamed new bushing. Bushings were made and supplied undersized so that they could be reamed for perfect fit and perfect clearance. I have seen some lately that seem to fit without reaming, but it worries me. What if the shaft is actually only contacting the bushings on some high spots? Soon the clearance will be excessive and you can’t make it smaller. I like to know that the bushings are in there perfectly straight, perfectly aligned, and perfectly sized. But if they seem to fit without reaming, what are you going to do?
BW
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“Back in the day”, as you younkers are fond of saying, reaming of new bushings was the way it was done. A shaft would almost never fit and run in an un-reamed new bushing. Bushings were made and supplied undersized so that they could be reamed for perfect fit and perfect clearance. I have seen some lately that seem to fit without reaming, but it worries me. What if the shaft is actually only contacting the bushings on some high spots? Soon the clearance will be excessive and you can’t make it smaller. I like to know that the bushings are in there perfectly straight, perfectly aligned, and perfectly sized. But if they seem to fit without reaming, what are you going to do?
BW
thx, normally the service manual covers all of that.
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I pulled the box apart today , both bushings are under sized .99 vs the originals that 1.0” The inner bushing slides rite through, I got them at k.w. On Monday I will call them, an see what happens. Omix Ada makes them as well , found a nos on eBay . Add uses the Same part number as the crown bushing, is it really nos then ?
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after 2 sets of bushings from k.w. i got one good rear bushing. i just purchased a inner bushing n.o.s. from quarter ton military guy to finish the job. a 4 hour job will take 2 weeks :(