My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: jeeprisk on August 22, 2021, 02:24:06 PM
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Hello,
Well it seems I've striped one of the bolt holes on the knuckle for the king pin cap.
The rest of the bolts I successfully have at 35 ft lbs, but this one hole keeps "popping" when pressure is applied.
Can I attempt to re-tap it or am I buying a new one?
j
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First, those should have studs with nuts and washers, not bolts. You can helicoil the hole to repair the threads back to standard.
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I see bolts in my Parts Manual. However, those as well as other bolts have studs in place and work very well. I think either will work. I seem to recall some bolts being replaced with hex cap bolts from the inside so that they protrude like studs but have a shoulder on the inside to help.
See squidtones post @ 9:54:
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=1206.msg10331#msg10331
more discussion:
https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=3952.msg33639#msg33639
If you just re-tap the hole, you'd have to step up to the next bigger size bolt. This "could" have fitment issues where the bolt goes into the knuckle. Not looking at one, I couldn't be sure. You'd also have to drill out the king pin cap for that larger bolt as well.
I've used a helicoil to fix a stripped bolt that's in between the transfer case and transmission. It sealed up nicely and holds the torque. I think that would work just fine.
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Okay will try the helicoil, first then get new knuckle if no go.
Thanks
j
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If you use bolts, make sure they do not protrude below the knuckle housing or you will damage the kingpin bearings in the axle housings. I like to use studs and trim them to the exact length so that there is no interference between the knuckle housing, the king pin bearing and the axle housing, then I use medium strength LocTite to secure them into the knuckle housing. But, those bearing cones are not too expensive, so you can damage a few sets before you figure it out!
Rus, you are thinking about the button-head bolts that can be inserted from inside the knuckle housing to hold the spindle on, but even these require spot-facing around the inside of the bolt holes inside the knuckle housing to get enough clearance for the knuckle housing to turn far enough on the king pins.
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Correct! My inclusion was just to reference swapping out bolts for studs - and how it's been done for more than one application.
I think there may be several advantages if an owner wanted to go with studs, following your description of ensuring NO interference with other components.