My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: Austin on October 14, 2015, 05:30:08 PM
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Hello again,
I am picking my new engine up tomorrow. I don't think I have been more excited about anything my entire life. Anyways, I was wondering what others are using in their 3A's as far as engine oil and fuel treatments. I plan on using some type of 30 weight oil and ethanol free gas. Someone told be me I should be using a lead additive.
Thanks in advance!
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I use a zddp oil additive in the crankcase and lead substitute along with a little mystery oil in my fuel, always real gas. If you had hardened valve seats put in you won't need lead replacement. The zinc addition is mandatory imo due to flat tappets but there are those that run nothing extra.
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I don't know about the lead additive...I've used it in the past but don't any longer.
But, you will need zinc additive in the oil or an engine oil that contains zinc. ZDDP is the additive. Shell Rotella contains zinc as it is meant for diesel engines, but seems to be fine in all engines.
Zinc interferes somehow with the function of the catalytic converters on modern gasoline engines, so regular motor oil has very little, where diesel oil has enough I'm told.
Old flat tappet engines use the zinc as a coating to reduce wear.
Follow the advice of your engine rebuilder. There are oils specially formulated for the break-in period.
I used Joe Gibbs break-in oil, and am using the high zinc conventional oil now...but it was expensive so when this case is gone I'm switching to Rotella....
And for what it's worth I think Sea Foam gas additive has had a very positive effect on both jeeps and the Model A Ford....
And as mentioned above Marvel Mystery Oil seems to be beneficial for any engine...the Model A guys swear by it..!
Randy
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Ask the rebuilder if he has a pre-oiler you can use for the first start-up, unless he has already started it.
A pre-oiler allows you to pressurize the oil system before that first critical start so oil pressure is there even before you crank the engine....
Make sure the oil pump is primed either way...talk to the machinst about it....
It'll be a thrill to hear that engine run!!
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Austin Picking my engine up this morning as well, I'm with you very excited!!
Great questions and answers thanks guys
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Picture is a little dark, but here she is. Just got to button up a few things tomorrow, drop her in my 3a, run it around town for about 150 next week to break in, and its 3 hours off to Farmville VA for my college's homecoming football game next week. It doesn't matter how early you start your project, it always seems to come down to the last possible second of the last minute before your deadline ;)
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It looks good! A new engine is always exciting....double check that firing order before you start it..remember the rotor turns counter-clockwise....
Let us know how it goes....
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Austin and Kirkski, just a note on something I wish I had done at this point. If the serial number was machined off the water pump boss during the engine rebuild now is the time to stamp it back on. HF has a stamp kit for about $25. Too much in the way to stamp it after installation.
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BMIC thanks for the reminder!