My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: scoutpilot on November 29, 2014, 07:26:18 AM
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OK Ya'll.
With the early onset of wintry conditions many of you have determined that now is the time for repair, renewal and restoration. When it comes to your carburetor don't ignore the fact that it needs to be cleaned and adjusted properly. If you think it is getting close to rebuild time do yourself a favor. Check the Throttle Shaft and the ports it passes through for wear. Optimum size is .3125" for both. After measuring note that a combined wear of .009 is reason to replace/bush both.
Before you try to separate them be aware that often the screws holding the plate, or butterfly to the shaft are split at the tips to lock them in. These tips will have to be removed by either filing them down or cutting them off. CAUTION! Do not strike the shaft itself or you could bend it. As well, prior to applying the torque to unscrew them do the following. Apply your favorite penetrant to each and let sit for a few minutes. Apply the correctly sized blade screwdriver to the slot and with a small hammer give each a couple of firm taps. This will break the corrosion often holding them. This will avoid breaking the head of the screw off. Not everybody has the correct drill bit and drill to safely remove the broken piece. Not following these instruction could see you cursing a blue streak because not only did you break the screw, but now you can't remove the shaft easily without scoring the port.
Before you decide to send the carb off or rebuild it yourself, please take the time to check this so you know what to expect.
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Hi Scoutpilot,
Is the shaft indeed brass?
I ask because I have a WO carb which sat for a few decades outside and the shaft was frozen solid to the cast iron. The throttle blade was bent; I think someone in the past tried to force the throttle open and perhaps pressed on the throttle blade. (the rest of the carb is in pretty good condition)
Anyway, I freed it all up by heating up the cast iron and I finally got the shaft to move. It does seem like it's at least a very hard alloy brass. But still, I slightly bent it.
The cast iron looks actually darn good; in your opinion, is there any reason a carb like this could not be brought back to a usable state, assuming bushing it is necessary? (I may make a new shaft like carlsjeep guy did...I saw his fix [new shaft] on a home machinist site)
Thanks for any comments...
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[size=12]The shaft is Nickel/Brass. The throttle plate is nickel plate steel. I don't know where you are but the climate has a lot to do with the corrosion levels. I would need to see it, inspect it and mic it to be sure. The standard bushing for it is 3/8" OD - 5/16""ID. As long as the ports are bore and readable to a smooth, solid 3/8", it should be alright, provided none of the passages have rusted shut. Making your own shaft will take some patience. I know this because I, too, make my own. I haven't seen Carl's video so I can't comment on it. Suffice to say I use a four part jig to insure a perfect cut. I wish you luck[/size][/b]
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[size=12]Hey Ya'll. I've got a new way to help you with your carb, fuel pump and filter issues. Along with a few other issues you may have questions about. Just click the link in my signature to find me. Thanks.[/size][/b]
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Hey Scout, love the new service! Very cool and as always, full of info!
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Thanks for stopping by Mark. Now that I have a free hand to do what I want, I've got a lot of work to do. I want to instill an atmosphere like the old-fashioned auto parts store where you could bring your coffee and pull up a stool at the counter. No big rush, you were there to casually converse with the crew behind the counter and learn something new. Maybe you remember what you came for as you are walking out the door. All are welcome to visit. Membership is free and optional. Rules? right now, only one. Check the flamethrower at the door.