My Willys 3A and 3B Community

3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: ZekeD on October 22, 2013, 12:57:19 PM

Title: Engine lift point
Post by: ZekeD on October 22, 2013, 12:57:19 PM: Folks,

I am lucky enough to have an overhead trolly with two chain falls, and I want to pull the engine out of my '49 3A. Where is the best place to attach the lift points? Will the head studs hold it if I use two and a piece of chain? I bought a lifting plate, but the bolt patterns do not match. :-/

Thanks
Zeke
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: Quebec Jeep on October 22, 2013, 02:14:39 PM: See pictures at the end of this thread:

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/pulling-engine-and-transmission_topic21376.html

Hope it help
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: 1955CJ-5 on October 22, 2013, 03:17:25 PM: I used two head studs....
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: F Bill on October 22, 2013, 04:52:54 PM: You can also use an endless strap loop around the entire engine and pan. (IE a lifting sling) ...I happened upon a dumpster of non osha approved ones at a Cat dealer one day and also keep picking them up at yard sales. No loosening head studs to attach the lifting brackets, no bent oil filter brackets, no broken bolts that way. Depending on how long the sling is you can either do one wrap in the middle of the engine or one at each end.
ï¿½ ï¿½ï¿½ ï¿½Those of you guys who have the WWII bumper ropes, here's something you can use it for. Or, make up a nylon sling the same way you made your hemp rope for the bumper. There are lots of tutorials on the web about how to do the loop ends in a rope, and even I could figure it out.
Of course, don't try to use a sling made out of baling twine or butcher string, or one that is full of cut strands.
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: athawk11 on October 22, 2013, 06:34:49 PM: I did one Bill's way...

(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/20130822006_zps6e7092b7.jpg)

Another way...

(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/enginepull_zps3779a88f.jpg)

Here I used a total of four head bolts.ï¿½ I mounted pieces of L-angle to the head, then those to the perferated angles where I could pick my way of pulling the engine.ï¿½ In this case, more straps.
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: ZekeD on October 24, 2013, 12:26:35 PM: Thanks for the advice, I went and used the strap method. Good idea to make one of them adjustable so that you can change the angle of the motor as you move it!

Thanks again
Zeke
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: Jesse on October 24, 2013, 09:24:56 PM: Oh, you guys used a lift? I guess that would have been easier on my back.

-Jesse
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: ZekeD on October 26, 2013, 11:10:03 AM: Yeah, but not as Manly... ;D
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: p3ferris on October 26, 2013, 08:11:14 PM: Quote
Oh, you guys used a lift? I guess that would have been easier on my back.

-Jesse

Yea we are not ones to get on top of it and pull the engine out by hand then swing it over our shoulder and walk into the shop then placeing it on the work bench ;D
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: ZekeD on October 27, 2013, 02:25:05 AM: The mill
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: PaulS on October 28, 2013, 10:02:27 AM: I wonder if my head studs were replaced with ones that were too short when the engine was last rebuilt. There is about one thread above the top of the nut--there is no way I can use them for lifting--with a lifting plate in place, the nut would be less than half engaged on the stud.

I ended up using slings instead. (If I tear this engine down--no decision made on that yet--I'll be putting slightly longer studs in.)

-Paul
Title: Re: Engine lift point
Post by: SteveW on November 03, 2013, 08:54:40 PM: Be careful on getting correct studs as some will be the right length but the portion that threads into the block will be too long and they will thread in so far the top part will barely clear the block. Over all length is only 1 part to consider. Different forum but it was just discussed so still fresh in my mind. It looks like Walck's has the right ones

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=226463

http://walcks4wd.com/cylinder-head-stud-l-head-4-cy.html