My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: 1955CJ-5 on May 29, 2013, 07:31:35 PM
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I know, big surprise..And why didn't I see it before? Because it was February when I took it off and I was working outside...
But, moving on....
Walcks sells a new replacement Made in America. Anyone have any experience with the Walck's replacement? It comes with a heat riser too....
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I had to buy a new manifold as well. I don't remember if I bought it from Walck's or not, but it fit's� and looks good.� I'd be surprised if there is more than one manufacturer.
Steve
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I bought and installed one from Walck's about 600 or 700 miles ago. So far, so good.
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I call Walcks today....I better double check the replacement intake manifold first....
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It's a big crack. For a smaller one I would try to weld it.
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Well, now I have a cracked intake manifold, a cracked Supersonic head, and a cracked exhaust manifold...all I need is a cracked block :D
It is a big crack....and it looks as though it's been there a very long time.
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I know lots of folks weld/ / braze cast iron heads , manifolds etc. But if you are serious about fixing a cast iron part you really should look at this� �http://www.locknstitch.com/.
There are several places that do it this way
Best of Luck
Steve
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Thanks Steve,
I read most of their info...i think i'll send them a picture of the cracked Supersonic head and see what they say...I have a pic with the magnaflux magnets showing the crack..
I did get another quote from Midwest Cylinder head...$350..so it isn't cheap!
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Here is a link from the Old Willys� forum showing an engine block repair.
http://www.oldwillysforum.com/forum/showthread.php?2400-47-Engine-rebuild/page5
Steve
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Now isn't that interesting......I wonder how a seal is created? And I wonder if it would work inside the combustion chamber? Could one of those studs eventually work itself loose and create havoc?
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From what I�ve been told this kind of repair has been around for decades. It was originally used in industrial applications and then migrated to the automotive field, specifically older out of production type parts.
I have seen heads and blocks that have been repaired this way and I know they are pressure tested afterwards.� As a matter of fact I�ve been advised that a 134 block should be pressure tested as a routine check at overhaul.� Something about not being able to see (using magnuflux) where they are likely to crack.
Steve
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Nothing yet from the Locknstitch folks...I'm interested to see what they have to say...
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Now isn't that interesting......I wonder how a seal is created? And I wonder if it would work inside the combustion chamber? Could one of those studs eventually work itself loose and create havoc?
The studs are somewhat tapered like a pipe plug, and each additional stud is partly drilled into the past one. Loctite is used to seal them, and in some cases they get ground off level with the surface and peened to look like they are all part of the casting. There really is no way for them to loosen up as each stud locks the one next to it.
In the link from the old willys forum they also show the crack locks that cross the crack in a specially drilled set of holes. Those are engineering masterpieces. If you ever get the chance to get an info packet from Locknstitch and read it you will be amazed at teh stuff they can fix that way.