My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: ZekeD on March 20, 2013, 10:34:34 PM
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I have reached a fatefull (sic) decision. I am going to remove the tub!
How heavy is it? Is it a b$&@$)? To do? What do I watch out for?
TIA
Z.
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I'm going to try the same thing soon. I've been told that a bare tub weighs in the neighborhood of 210lbs.
I've been thinking of fastening some 2x4's together, and putting one set under the front frame mounts and the other under the rear/bed frame mounts, and lifting either with an engine hoist or just a little at a time by hand, resting the 2x4's on saw horses or something until the frame can be rolled out.............
Can't wait to see what others have done!
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My experience was kind of scary. It invloved a couple of planks in the rafters of the shop, a come-along and two ratchet straps. Keep in mind that the tub has to move back or the frame move foreward as you lift in order to clear steering column.
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What aboutthe steering column???? Does it have to come out? What do you have to remember to put it back in?
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It all depends on how much you leave attached to it. I remember reading somewhere recently a figure of 275 lbs. but I don't know if that included any other goodies. Heavy layers of paint, undercoating, 1/4 inch plate steel patches, layers of mulch and leaves, road tar in the wheelwells, and stray cats and dogs all add to the weight. If your floor is a flintstone special it might be a little lighter. I had a jeep where the whole rear floor and wheelwells were made of scrap plate steel, I dismantled that one inplace as it was too heavy to pull. I have a tub by my shop now, I can move it around by myself by walking it back and forth, with two people it is easier, three is just right. It has been rhinolined and that is heavy stuff.
So far as tricks.....get your steering wheel and column out of the way, you can take the steering column out once the wheel is off as long as you have the fender off anyway...Take the top off the tranny with the shifter cane, and stuff it full of rags. Your 4WD shifters probably won't come off easily but if you can get that pivot bolt out it will make life easier, otherwise it will be your only obstacle left... Pedals, gas tank, wiring, fuel line and exhaust connectors and hangers if attached all add to the fun. Soak all your fasteners with Kroil or PB Blaster or whatever juice you use a day or two ahead...
You asked about the column, while I was typing.. You do NOT have to remove it but......it is a lot easier to do it that way. If you have a well trained crew and not a bunch of slambang happy crazies, they can carefully thread teh column out thru the tub hole as you lift it up..You will have to have the steering wheel and any turn signal stuff off..
Are you pulling it to repair or replace with new or ?? IF to repair it may be worth putting some temporary bracing in it.
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I have a 2 ton travel lift in my shop but I have no idea where to fasten the chains to the tub, if and when I can get it loose from the frame. Gonna be fun.
Z.
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Damn, Bill wouldnt it be easier to cut all of it off with a torch and re-weld it laterr?
Z.
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F Bill, I plan to repair and use as a farm jeep. No trailer Queen, just fun for an old man.
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Damn, Bill wouldnt it be easier to cut all of it off with a torch and re-weld it laterr?
Z.
Sometimes fast and easy now makes it hard work �and expensive later.....Other times you just need to know what to cut and what to save. �Speaking of which don't toss anything until you finish the job... SOme of the ugliest looking stuff might turn out to be really important...
If you have a functional original temperature gage, you will have to remove it from the head before pulling the tub.. Lots of PB, lots of care....really easy to snap it off. If you do, there was a recent post about repairing the gages....Speedo cable as well has to be pulled, oil pressure line has a connection.
Junkyard removal of parts and pieces, cutting wires, torching bolts, etc..has its place. If you do no harm to things you want to save. Be really careful with a cutting torch, as it is pretty easy to torch the good metal too. Not that I have ever done such a thing, at least today... �:-[
And I forgot, if you have a PTO pull off the linkage before pulling the tub.
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This is how I did it. �I didn't remove the steering column, but it is easier if you do. �I threaded the needle in reverse. �Up a little...back a little...and so on. �
After removing the tub, I used rope and rafters in my garage to manipulate, turn, flip the tub as needed.
If you have a couple friends, some beer and pizza handy, you will easily have the tub off in moments.
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/Tubmanipulation.jpg)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/RachelEngineremoval2_zpsda20369c.jpg)
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OK! but your helper is a lot prettier than any of mine!
Thanks for the help. It is reassuring that it CAN be done by mere mortals..
Except for F Bill..... we all know that he is a C3 God
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F Bill: Yes I have a front PTO with winch. Should that be first on the relief list?
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Here's how I pulled the tub, with the steering column still in place. I took the picture while 5 friends didn't work very hard.
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/JeepRebuild016.jpg)
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/JeepRebuild017.jpg)
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My dad and I were able to set the new unpainted tub on my frame just by picking it up and setting it down. We used other means to yank the old one off and put the painted one on. My old tub was heavily bubbafied, so it probably weighed more than my new painted one.
Old tub off.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1953%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0469.jpg)
New tub on.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1953%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/DSC01015.jpg)
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Here's how mine came off. No special equipment needed. I enlisted only the help of my wife (who barely rings up triple digits on a scale) for some added muscle. I left the steering column and shift levers in place but removed everything else. We slid the tub off backwards, stood it on end, and then rolled the chassis out of the way. Re-install was pretty much the same process but with the help of the aforementioned wife plus two other people. Still not bad, but if Athawk lived closer I would have commandeered his Kubota instead.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/SANY7972.jpg)
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OK! but your helper is a lot prettier than any of mine!
Thanks for the help. It is reassuring that it CAN be done by mere mortals..
Except for F Bill..... we all know that he is a C3 God
Um....not a god at all. I might be a decent typist if I wasn't dyslexic.
Anyhow , seems like the guys gave you lots to check out, I gotta go to San Antonio for work and then up to UTAH.. (Yup, I have a run to do!!! yay!) Everyone behave while I am gone... ;D :D
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My buddy John used his China Freight engine hoist.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html
Can't seem to the find pictures. Will post when I do, if ever.
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ZEKED, if you have a 2T shop crane, you have more than what you will need. Most of those are still good for 500 lbs at full boom extension. Use a couple of nylon slings and just pick it up. You will have to work the crane back and forth a bit to clear the steering column unless the crane has casters all around. Or if you have a rolling chassie, you can pick up the tub and just roll the chassie out. If you have a couple of reasonably stout people, you can just pick them up, but getting it to clear the column would definately be a huff.
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Since this post has kinda turned on how some have removed their tubs, I'll contribute.
This is how a lonesome loser does it. Strapped it upwards, rolled out the rust underneath then lowered the tub to the ground. In between all the restoration time, I aquired a coffing hoist and used that to raise and lower the tub back on.
(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb356/1brale/M38%20restore/IMG_0380.jpg)
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I used the front end loader on the tractor, but stillmanaged to bend my steering shaft a bit. Fortunately the local machine shop straightened it on their big lathe. I would remove the steering column for the next one. Much safer and least expensive if something slips or falls. Tub can be handled by 4 guys though. Jamesr
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(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u424/macgraham/JEEP%20REBUILD/P1010083.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u424/macgraham/JEEP%20REBUILD/PB220004.jpg)
This shows an Aframe hoist I built about 30 years ago. With 2 chain hoists I can rotate the tub without it touching the ground. Since I work by myself it has been all the difference.
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Exactly! What do you attach to on the tub?
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If I was lifting it top side up, I rigged a diagonal chain from the windshield mounting bolts to a hole on the opposite rear wheel house. I did the same on the other side and the chain crossed about in the middle. This is not necessarily the balance point but you can move the lifting hook until you find it. You don't need real heavy chain. I thought I had a photo of the tub on the hoist but I can't find it. When you find the balance point wire the hook to the chain so there will be no slipping. Just a safety thing.
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I lifted mine off the frame by myself. Straddled the engine and lifted the front up over the steering column and set it sitting up on the back end. Getting it over the steering column was a little challenging, but managed to do so without damage. I put it on a hand truck and hauled it around to the side of the house.
You can see why I am following the "Too rusty to save?" thread closely!
(http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb336/carneyjb/Tub1.jpg)
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If nothing else, it gives all of us hope!
Thanks