My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: athawk11 on February 20, 2013, 06:05:33 PM
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I sheared off a bolt at the exhaust pipe to manifold position. I was able to drill it out and re-tap it.
40 years from now when the next owner is trying to replace the exhaust, am I doing him a favor by using Grade 8 bolts and nuts???
Tim
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Rust is rust. It will still stick. Best thing is stainless or brass.
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Yeah, I figured that. But with a stronger bolt, will he have a better chance of it staying in one piece till he gets it free?
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Just took apart my 10 year old Ford, with plated steel nuts on hardened studs. Had to heat things up with the torch to get it apart after 370,000 miles. I rethreaded and installed new nuts, had the bolts been new as well instead of slightly worn originals I might have used some never seez. �The new nuts were a loose fit so I didn't do it.
Pretty much anything used in that application will eventually rust up and seize up. If it is a nut and bolt it is no big deal to break or torch it off, but a stud is a different matter. Use brass nuts like Nate said on the stud if you can..I would prefer a stud with a brass nut over a bolt threaded in tight, as chances are that bolt WILL break upon removal like yours.
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Actually I was pretty fortunate with my 2A , every bolt, I mean every bolt that I took out, came out without any problem. It had not been touched since 53.
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40 years from now when the next owner is trying to replace the exhaust, am I doing him a favor by using Grade 8 bolts and nuts???
Tim[/quote]
Are you worried you might know him?
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Very good Guns.... Your a bit sharper today.
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Are you worried you might know him?
Very funny Gun!!
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D