My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: bretto on November 07, 2012, 08:59:16 PM
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So I have a known front tranny seal leak. In an attempt to remedy this I dropped the tranny and tcase last weekend and found that the lube was getting by the felt seal and seeping down the tube then in to the bell housing then out. This was a brand new seal that came in a Crown kit. So in my thinking, I thought I bet if it was slightly thicker, it might make it seal up a little better. I made another donut out of some thinner felt I had and added behind the other felt seal. It was a bit snugger on the output shaft when the bearing retainer was bolted back on. Fast forward to it still leaks about the same amount. I get about a 3-4" puddle after a drive. :(
So, I am now wanting to have another go at this but hope to go in more prepared. I have read up a bit and found some have used a sealed bearing in place of the open type and thought about going that route.
Anyone have any tips or suggestions?
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Have you checked the vent on the top of the tranny to see if it is open? I assume the tranny is not over filled so the vent is the only reason I can think of that would cause that.
If you can find a front bearing that is sealed on ONE SIDE ONLY you can use it along with the felt seal.
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Carl,
I'm not sure what vent you are talking about, do you mean the vent on the tcase? That one is clear and no, the cases are filled to where they should be to the bottoms of the fill plugs.
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Yes, I was referring to the vent on top of the tranny and I think it's on the shift tower. If that is ok I guess your only solution is a sealed front bearing. Have you done a search for a bearing with seals? If you find one be sure to remove one of the seals so oil can get into the bearing but still sealed on the outside.
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Yes,
some bearing part #s are
SKF 6208 2RSNRJEM
MRC 208 SZZG
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I'm not sure the SKF 6208 has a snap ring groove. The one you select will need a snap ring groove on the outer race in the right location.
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From the forums I have read, the SKF---6208-2RSNRJ/EM, is what others have used. If that cant be found the MRC 208-SZZG is an equivalent. Both of which aren't too easy to track down.
I have also come across a brand called Nachi bearings and have found that their 6208-2NSENR is a fit also. I have never heard of Nachi but a bit of searching shows their bearings have been used in various applications. They are a Japanese bearing, I wont buy any bearings from China. Anyone have any info or first hand experience of their bearings?
With searching this info, I find it interesting that the bearing unit used in these boxes is metric.
40mm X 80mm X 18mm (1.5748in X 3.1496in X 0.7086in) I measured that against a bearing I have on hand that was replaced on the rebuild and its right at that.
As soon as I obtain a bearing and get time, I will get this done and do a flup with pics.
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Ok, got a genuine SKF bearing on the way. Located one fleabay $30 to my door, not bad.
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The SKF bearings are made in several Countries including China and Hong Kong so it will be a toss up where your bearing will be from.
The next important things is a SKF 6208 comes with and without a snap ring groove and you NEED a groove.
The SKF 6208 2RSJEM is a double seal without a snap ring groove.
The SKF 6208 2RSNRJEM is a double seal WITH a snap ring groove.
If you do not specify the correct number with the correct suffix letters you may not get the bearing you need. When ordering a bearing you can;t just order using the basic numbers, you have to use all the numbers and letters to designate the style bearing you want.
It has to have a snap ring groove to use in the T90 tranny. You could leave both seals in the bearing but I suggest you remove the seal that would be on the inside of the tranny.
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Ya I got the right one coming. I did my research :)
SKF 6208 2RSNRJEM
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Good job, just wanted to be sure you had the right numbers. Sometimes it's hard to get the right bearing because different makers use different designations.
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I can't recall from the last time I had the tranny stripped down as to what was involved in pulling out the main front drive gear shaft. Does the main rear shaft have to be backed out the rear in order for the front shaft to go out the front? I'll be able to figure it out as I go but I would rather get mentally prepared to all that's involved. From what I read on Rick Stivers's rebuild guide, his steps show it being pulled out before the front can be removed. I'm just wondering if that is only because he is showing a full tear down. I'm hoping I can just pull out the front somehow without doing the latter which means separating the tcase from the tranny. Basically a full tear down. I'm thinking that the oil slinger is going hang me up. I think I remember in order to get the main shaft out the front, that slinger had to be moved, and in order to remove it, the cluster gear had to be dropped, which means a full stripping of the box basically. I'm expecting the worst but hope someone tells me otherwise.
Thanks
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Well, I think I might be getting too good at dropping the gear boxes. �Took me all but an hour to pull everything and drop them down. �With support from above and below it is a very controlled move. �And I was able to remove �the bearing from the front end with a little persuasion. �Now I have to wait for the bearing to come.
(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb356/1brale/M38%20restore/IMG_0915.jpg)
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WOW, that's interesting. I didn't think you would be able to get the bearing off the input shaft that easy. You normally have to pull the counter shaft and drop the counter shaft out of the way to pull the input shaft. That means you have to remove the transfer case.
Since you were able to get the bearing off the input shaft that's good and it sure saved a lot of extra work. Did you remove the seal off the inside of the new bearing?
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Bretto,
As I have followed this thread I have ached for you. I have had reason to pull my transmission too many times already (each one has been posted here, as well). It's not fun. But when I saw your photo above (with the strap support from your garage ceiling) the photo revealed the large floor section that is removable in the M38 (as with the other military Jeeps), I quit aching for you so much. How nice it would be to have that big section of the floor out of the way when you need to R & R the transmission. That's almost as nice as having the tub out of the way. I have said a couple of times before, here on the CJ-3A page, that if I had to do it over again I would seek out an M38 to rebuild. The big hole in the floor is just one reason. Another is the spare tire mounted on the back where it belongs. Another is the fully restored Jeep has the desirable OD paint which is much more forgivable than is my glossy yellow.
I hope your sealed bearing does the job. I don't know any way that it couldn't. Good luck!!
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The replacement bearing is still in transit but yes, I plan on pulling the internal side seal of the bearing. Having never worked on another T90, I have no experience to compare how my bearing's fitment is to another but it seems like it came off fairly easily. After removing the smaller snap ring, I pulled out the shaft and bearing barely enough that the larger snap ring was off the case housing and put some pieces of a older snap ring behind it as spacer then tapped the end of input shaft. It didn't take too much effort at all to get it off. My only concern is, at one point I think the shaft may have come out it to far and dropped one of the roller bearings out. It still rotates smoothly after I temporarily put the front bearing back in to hold it all together till the replacement comes.. I'll have to pull the shift tower and take a look to see if there is is enough movement to allow that to happen and then fish the bottom of the case. Then I need to come up with a way to plug the drain back hole in the front of the case. Some suggest to tap a thead and plug it, another was to just silicone it over, which I don't think is a good idea. I am thinking a binder post and screw with some loc-tite and sealant.. That is if there is enough clearance inside the case that nothing will rotate into it.
Regarding the floor Calvin, as I was doing the removal, I had wondered how Carl and you had removed your unit. When I started, I thought I could probably just send the strap around the assemble thru the hole that the tranny cover panel provides. Then I thought, no it's just all around easier to remove the whole floor panel and it's there to remove. It really helps with access to the upper bell housing bolts and the realignment when you go to put the assembly back in.
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I don't think the shaft can come out far enough to drop any of the needle bearings. Installing the bearing may present a problem but if you carefully tap the bearing around the inner race it should go on. The last part to get it on far enough to put the snap ring on the input shaft will be the hardest and may require you having someone pull the input shaft out as you tap the bearing on.
Just don't get in a hurry.
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Ya, no hurries. I took a look at it this morning and yes, the shaft cant come out far enough release any needle bearings and it looks like there will be enough room for a binder post to seal the drain hole.
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Well, I think I might be getting too good at dropping the gear boxes. �
Brett, you dont want to get TOO good at it!! ;)
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I received my bearing in the mail 2 days ago. �It looks to be a NOS SKF bearing, made in the USA, yeah.
I was trying to figure out the best way to plug the return drain hole. I ditched the binder post and screw idea in favor of tapping and plugging it. �Using what I had available to me(no NPT tap), I ran a standard 3/8-16 nc tap about 2/3rd the way in the hole. �This way, the plug runs out of threads and can't go any further to make its way into the box. �I think if you were to run a standard tap all the way through, some threadlock would keep it in place just fine but the way I did it is a guarantee. �I plan on putting some threadlock on to keep it in place and then seal over it as well as you would the heads of the bolts for the oil collector. �For the plug, to save a trip to the store to buy a real plug and since I like to make my own stuff, I made it from a bolt and cut the slot with a hacksaw. �Kind of a backwood approach but it will work just fine.
(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb356/1brale/M38%20restore/IMG_0944.jpg)
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Well done friend. The only thing that bothers me is with the drain hole plugged if the bearing seal leaks it will be trapped in the front bearing retainer housing. The bearing seal will hold grease in and dirt out but I'm not sure it will hold tranny oil in. Perhaps a small hole in the plug would allow any oil to return to the tranny.
So far my tranny front felt seal hasn't lleaked but that's with only about 4500 miles on it's rebuild.
I hope your fix works for you.
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Time will tell. Just going off other people's lead in doing this and they all plug the hole. I figure it should slow the flow if anything and stop the puddles I have been getting.
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After 3 days of test driving it, 0 leaks (well this leak, I have a few other minor ones). �At this time before, It would of leaked by now. �Hopefully it will hold up. �Sad thing is, I have the whole thing ripped apart again but for other issues. �I'm sure Carl and Calvin might like to read.
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/topic26423_post232457.html#232457
(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb356/1brale/M38%20restore/IMG_0946-25662.jpg)
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I'm sure Carl and Calvin might like to read.
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/topic26423_post232457.html#232457
Brett, I read every word. �Looks like you're on top of the problem. �You posted the above at 9 this morning. �I tried to call you at 10. I guess you were already on your way to Grandma's house for turkey dinner. About the only thing I could add to what you have already figured out and to what Carl has said about the location of NOS parts is that I got all my NOS gears, shafts, etc., from Army Jeep Parts, Inc in PA. 215-269-5014 www.armyjeepparts.com �That is also where I got the shims in different thicknesses for setting the proper end play of the output shaft. �The spacers go just forward of the rear bearing spacer against the output shaft (main shaft). �The person who overhauls transmissions at Army Jeep Parts is George. �He was very helpful and answered a lot of questions I had about my transmission overhaul. I have a modified rear bearing needed to set up the end play for the output shaft when using the shims if you'd like to borrow it. �
Here are a couple of pics that may interest you. �Upon investigation I found that the repro plates were worn prematurely by the repro synchro sleeve that had been poorly machined leaving a very rough surface to slide against. The repro synchro springs (left) were heavier and stronger than the NOS (right) which put more outward pressure on the plates.
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Jeeptrannyprob001.jpg)
The plates on the right have just 1000 miles on them since being installed at overhaul. �The plates on the left are the old ones that came out of the high-mileage tranny when I overhauled it. �It was at this point that I decided I would only reinstall NOS parts at that time. �That's when I contacted Army Jeep Parts as recommended by another CJ-3A member. �And that's when I learned that quality parts at any cost are better than the readily available repro parts, whether they come from a source like Novak or NOS.
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Jeeptrannyprob008.jpg)
Good luck on you FINAL reassembly of your transmission.
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Calvin,
Sorry to miss your call. �
I am surprised to see pictures of the plates that look pretty much like mine. �Or maybe I should be saying not surprised. �I have no history of the transmission but I didnt replace my sleeve or hub, just the plates and spring and they got chewed up. �As I say in the other page, I placed in my old plates and springs in the hub and sleeve assembly and it moves smooth as can be.
I plan on placing my order with AJP today for parts.
I appreciate the offer on the setup bearing but mine comes off without too much difficulty if I need to make any adjustments. �Do you know the spec on what the end play is supposed to be?
Thanks �
(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb356/1brale/M38%20restore/IMG_0946-256613.jpg)
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Hi bretto, I have been following your post on CJ2 as you know. I think it would be wise to replace the sliding collar or possibly the entire synchro assembly. All the foreign made tranny parts have issues and I consider them to be scrap.
I think the end play or clearance between the input shaft and output shaft is .015". I think I set mine at .010" but anything less than that may cause problems. You need to have them close so after some wear it won't start jumping out of second gear while decelerating, especially going downhill.
You may want to use Calvin's test bearing because it comes off easy to change the shims if needed. If you have to pull the output shaft out to change the shims the needle bearings may fall out of the input shaft. Being able to easily slide the bearing off to change shims is real handy. Plus, you have to clamp the bearing against the rear of the case to check the end play with a dial indicator so the shaft has to slide in the bearing.
Depending on the class of bearing all ball bearings have some movement between the outer and inner race. The bearings we use are a low class loose fit and with the bearing not sliding easily on the shaft you may only measure the slop in the races and balls, not the end play. Also, when your measuring the end play you have to have the front bearing retainer bolted on to keep the input shaft from moving.
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According to George and Army Jeep Parts, the end play is supposed to be .012 to .016. �Often you get close to that without any shims. �Sometimes a tranny overhauled with all new parts will still jump out of 2nd gear on deceleration because unknowingly the end play was too great--probably more than .030. �I learned this more than 40 years ago when I had my first CJ-5. �It was only 6 years old with less than 40,000 miles and it jumped out of 2nd on deceleration. �At that time, the local Jeep dealer sold .030 inch stainless steel shims that were horseshoe shaped with at break-off tab for installation. �Once slid into place at the aft end of the output shaft, the open ends of the horseshoe would be tapped closer together to keep it in place and the installation tab broken off. �Before I found the CJ-3A page I was asking about it on the 2A page. �A couple of old-times remembered them. �Carl Walck has never heard of them. �
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Thanks guys.
Through my searching, I have been told that finding NOS blocking rings are probably as rare as finding a good roll of flight line. Though I found that the guys at Novak and AJP stand by the products that they sell and say they are quality replacements. I have however stumbled across a US made, NORS 640391 synchro unit delivered to my porch for less than if I were to just only buy the rings, plates and springs alone.
I will have to look at my old rear bearing so see how it measures up and maybe hone it out to a slip fit. In the past when doing axle set ups, I know how nice it is to have setup bearings. If I come to find I need your bearing Calvin, I will let you know.
I actually did come across an article with pics, that someone had found split shim on their output shaft. Don't ask to remember where that was but if I happen to come across it again, I'll share.
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Bretto,
It's fun to follow your progress. You work so fast and find so much interesting stuff it's truly entertaining and gratifying--such stuff as the NORS synchro unit and the article about the split shim.
It doesn't take much to hone out the old rear bearing to a slip fit.
Interesting about the article where someone found the split shim on the output shaft. There's got to be some still out there. I wasn't the only one to install it. Sure was a great way to fix a common problem. Don't know why they stopped making them. I wish I would have purchased a hundred of them when they were available.
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I got to thinking about the setting of the clearance of the 2 shafts or 'endplay'. My thinking when someone says endplay, they are talking about a tolerance that allows a set floating movement. Right? In this case, it's setting a solid spacing. Or am I way off?
Also, in my thinking ::), you shoul be able to check and set this spacing with a bare (no, 2nd gear, synchro unit, & 1/rev gear) main output shaft. Might be easier this way to let you see what all that is going on and nothing to interfere the movement of the shaft into the input, if any. And I could do it while waiting for parts to arrive. I can't imagine there will be much or any adjustment at all to make. If you start moving the shaft in too much, you can start to mess with the mesh of 2nd gear to the counter cluster shaft. But if it takes too much, you probly better start replacing parts.
I have honed out my old bearing so it ready for use in the set up. Any tips on holding the bearing and adapter to the housing other then mating the tranny to the transfer case?
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Yes, it's a solid spacing. The two shafts are trapped by the bearings and the spacing is fixed as to how much you set in it.
I think you will need to have the second gear and synchro assy you will use mounted on the shaft to set the clearance. It's been two years since I built my tranny but I think the clearance is related to the input shaft, synchro assy and second gear. Difference in machine tolerances could cause issues.
I used toe clamps from my milling machine to hold the bearing against the case. A bolt, and a flat bar with holes drilled in them will do the job. What you want is for the shaft to be able to slide in the bearing so you can measure the end play with a dial indicator on the end of the output shaft. Pull hard on the shaft to be sure it comes all the way back and push hard forward to be sure your measuring the full clearance.
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I found the parts in the mailbox today. Now to find the time.
There is a little bit is machining burrs I need file down but they look great. And the spacing on the cones of the input shaft and 2nd gear looks almost to be 3/32" I didn't take a real measurement, just put em up to them to take a quick glance and there is significance difference compared to the old ones.
(http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb356/1brale/M38%20restore/IMG_0946-1.jpg)
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Well, those are NOS for sure. It's a good idea to clean everything up and make sure the collar slides on the hub. Mine had some tight spots that I dressed off with a fine file and some mold dressing stones. I bought a pair of NOS blocking rings from Peter DeBella last spring just in case.
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Any tips on holding the bearing and adapter to the housing other then mating the tranny to the transfer case?
I messed with a couple of C clamps and got pretty good satisfaction in holding the rear bearing in place while getting a feeler gauge down in between the aft end of the output shaft and the rear bearing spacer. �Then I found that it was just about as effective to have someone firmly push on the honed out set up rear bearing while taking the end play measurement. �The real test comes when you bolt the TC to the tranny with gasket and any sealant/permatex in place.
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FYI
If someone in the future runs across this posting, and looking for rings. �The part# on these are 243-14F. �This may be a manufactures part #, I dont know. �The manual shows the rings part # to be 640397. �I did some searching an found that there a few NOS rings out there now for sale. �If you go looking specifically for rings for Jeep, Willys, etc or the 640397 part # , you mostly end up with results�that look to be overseas repo stuff.
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Calvin, I got your VM last night. Our team won the basketball game by the way. :)
I appreciate again you sending those shims and I will return what I don't use, maybe all.
I got to digging at this a little more. What we are really going after here as an end result is getting the spacing of the gears, hub, and rings in tolerance.
I came across a Willys sevice bulletin from July 21, 1947 concerning transmission jumping out of 2nd. It has some info that is related to this job.
This is just the tail end of it.
5. Check fit of second speed, gear to shaft. If loose, new bushing, Part
No. 640400 or second, speed gear, Part No. 640396, should be installed.
There should, be .003 to .014 end play between rear face of gear and
shoulder on shaft when gear is pressed, toward front of transmission,
so that clutch hub is against snap ring.
6. The clutch sleeve must engage second speed gear to a depth of 1/8"
beyond the chamfered edge of teeth. If less, new spacer, Part No.
643621, or a .030 shim should be installed betweem spacer and shoulder
on shaft for CJ2A, CJ3A, end 4WD. On the 2WD the .030 should be
installed between the rear bearing and shoulder of shaft.
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I believe you still have to clamp the rear bearing against the back of the tranny case to measure that clearance and have the output shaft pulled all the way to the rear if the bearing slides on the shaft. If the bearing is pressed on the shaft then clamp the bearing in the case and measure the gap as described in the service bulletin.
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Ok, I took some measurements.
I am getting .020-.022 movement with the rear gear and nut off.
I put the gear and nut on and I figure this lets me measure the play in the bearing itself and I get �about .008-.009 movement.
So with that, does that mean that my overall spacing would be in the .012-.013 ball park? �Once the gear is bolts on, the only movement you get is the bearing slop.
I also measure .012 clearance between the rear of 2nd and the shoulder of the shaft so that looks good.
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If you put the gear and nut on and clamp the bearing to the rear face of the case you shouldn't have any movement in the shaft to speak of. The ball bearing may have a few thousandths movement in the balls and races but that's all. Maybe that is what your measuring and getting .008-.009".
After reading the part of the service bulletin you posted I am starting to understand why you want the .012" to .016" end play in the rear output shaft. Since Willys mentions that second gear should be at least 1/8" into the shift collar that's the reason Jeep Parts tells us to measure the end play and limit it to .012" to .016". When you do that you will have second gear into the shift collar as far as it will go and still have some clearance between the input and output shafts.
I think you should leave the nut and gear off and set the end play as Jeep Parts describes.
When I rebuilt my tranny I put the original spacer between the shaft shoulder and bearing and measured the end play. I think it was about .040" or a little less. I then made a new spacer the right thickness to get the end play I wanted. That way I didn't have to use shims, which I would have had to make anyway.� �
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Ok, I took some measurements.
I am getting .020-.022 movement with the rear gear and nut off.
I put the gear and nut on and I figure this lets me measure the play in the bearing itself and I get �about .008-.009 movement.
So with that, does that mean that my overall spacing would be in the .012-.013 ball park? �Once the gear is bolts on, the only movement you get is the bearing slop.
I also measure .012 clearance between the rear of 2nd and the shoulder of the shaft so that looks good.
Yes, the .008 was the bearing slop or movement in the bearing itself. This is the older honed out one used as a slip fit. I also put on the new one to compare and it measured in at .005.
Anyway, I thought I should measure that movement to see where it was in comparison the movement of the shaft itself.
Now I'm wondering do you take that bearing movement out of the equation or is its part of the overall end measurement? Reason I ask this because if its part of the sum of the space, there is a difference of .003 between the old and new bearing.
With the older bearing with no nut or gear on the end of the shaft, I get .020-.022 of movement in the shaft. Now logic would tell me, the newer bearing, if it was a slip fit, it would measure in at .017-.019. Then adjust from there.
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Reason I ask this because if its part of the sum of the space, there is a difference of .003 between the old and new bearing. With the older bearing with no nut or gear on the end of the shaft, I get .020-.022 of movement in the shaft. � Now logic would tell me, the newer bearing, if it was a slip fit, it would measure in at .017-.019. �Then adjust from there.
I believe I'm following your procedure, and if I am, I agree...adjust from there. �You're looking for .012 - .016. �I sent you shims of .003, .010, and thicker. �The .003 would take you down to .014 - .016 theoretically. �I would take it. �Final torquing of the TC to the tranny may give a slightly different, but most accurate reading.
George at Army Jeep Parts had me do my final check at the rear end of the splines on the output shaft (main shaft) between the end of the splines and the case (or whatever the splines end up fitting against--its been a long time) with the output shaft being loaded to the front in order to provide a gap at the rear.
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Calvin, after reading your post I began to think, so I went to the barn and got my old shaft and bearing. I measured the movement in the bearing races and found the bearing to have .012" end play. I suspect a new bearing may have at least .005" .006" because these are low class bearings and would not be good enough to use in a lathe or mill spindle. Those applications require a tighter fit.
Your reasoning sounds good to me too. Now that I have measured my old bearing I feel better about the clearance that I left in my rebuild. I have been concerned I may have set it to tight but now I think it's just fine. A plus is, as time goes by wear enters the equation and the clearance increases.
I'm understanding this more now and I think if you measure the play in the bearing your using to set the clearance and the play in the new bearing and enter that into the equation you will end up with a good fit.
However, if you had the bearing clamped to the rear of the case tight, then putting the transfer case on the back should not change anything. One thing I did was to measure the protrusion of the rear bearing out of the rear of the tranny case and then measured the recess in the transfer case. I found what thickness gasket I needed to put between the cases so the bearing would clamp up tight and still seal the two cases. The rebuild gasket kit I bought had three different thickness gaskets to use. If you use to thick a gasket you will end up will excess end play. If you use to thin a gasket you can end up with a leak or a broken ear on the tranny which mine had when I tore it down.
Aren't these Jeeps fun to work on and get right. �;D :-/ �
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The guy I bought the synchro unit from has listed some more. He must have a bunch. It would be nice to be able to buy another to have on hand.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-56-57-58-Ford-Transmission-Sychronizer-Gear-T86-T90-/220775742951?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3367427de7&vxp=mtr
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Today I spent some time searching for how many vehicles the T90 was used in and didn't have much luck. I never have been good at picking the right combination of words to do a good search. Does anyone know all the applications of the T90 tranny?
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Carl,
�The eBay ad says it's for Ford cars 55 through 58, 6 or 8 cyl. �That kind of surprises me. �Like you, I'd like to know how widely the T-90 tranny was used.
Brett,
�Thanks for sharing the info with us. �Man, am I tempted to just purchase those NOS parts to have around. �I hope that I never need to replace the ones I'm now running, and don't expect to so I hesitate. �If I ever do need them I'm going to be real sad if I don't buy them now while they are available. �I'm going to have to dust of my crystal ball and take a look into it.
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I rebuilt my tranny a few months ago with parts of unconfirmed origin. You guys have driven me right into a panicked frenzy about cheap repro parts ever since. I just bought a set of these ebay synchros to have on the shelf.
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I ended up getting it set up at .012. I had to used a .003 and a .010 shim that you sent. Thanks again for them.
I've got it it all mounted back up to the Jeep, just got to bolt up a few other items pour some lube in and try it out.
I am sure getting good at making gaskets :-/.
It had never shifted so smooth between 2nd-3rd as it does now. I think from the get go the other junk shift plates started to get gouged and worn right after I put them in.
I may get to where I could drive it today sometime.
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My trigger finger is vibrating trying to convince me to buy that assembly, but my mind keeps saying, Carl, do you really need them.
I am thinking the T90 was used in a whole lot of vehicles but finding a list is a real problem. I may contact Borg Warner to see if they can provide a list.
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EUREKA!
I drove it around this morning and it shifts like butter. Much better than before.
:) :) :) :) :)
I have got to practice my double clutching. Having the floor still out makes foot placement a little tough in that regard.
I also, hopefully, fixed a leaking rear output seal of transfer case.
Brett
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Many do not understand how important it is to double clutch shifting from first to second and second to third is. That simple task can decrease the wear and tear on the synchro rings. I have found it's best to blip the throttle with the clutch out on the first to second change and to not blip the throttle on the second to third change.
Double clutching to go from second to low is a good thing to learn if you do a lot of trail riding. I practice that as much as possible even on the street coming up to a stop sign or traffic light. After a while it is easy to do.
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My trigger finger is vibrating trying to convince me to buy that assembly, but my mind keeps saying, Carl, do you really need it?
I was suffering with the same syndrome. �But, I ended up ordering one of the NOS Synchro assemblies. �As Bretto said, You can get the whole assembly, NOS Made In USA, for about the same price as you can buy just the NOS blocker (synchro) rings, when you can find them. �To me, that synchro assembly with the blocker rings are the most vulnerable part of the T-90 tranny operating correctly and smoothly. �And the synchro rings are most subject to wear. �So, my purchase is just an insurance policy. �Like other insurance policies, I hope I never have to use it, but if I do, it will be nice to have it.
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60 years from now your 3A parts box will have a brand new assy on hand that no one will be able to supply. Sorry to provide you the temptation :)
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Bretto - You should be getting a commission on this guy's sales....you've sold at least two sets so far.