My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: calvinhunt on October 13, 2012, 11:56:02 PM
-
During the restoration of my Jeep nearly 5 years ago, I followed the instructions found on the 3A Page to lightly oil my speedometer at the oiling port on the back side. �It probably needed to be oiled regularly there after but was not. �Last week while driving down the highway I noticed the needle swinging erratically between 30 and 50 and making a bit of noise. �I suspected the cable was bad but wasn't sure. �To be safe I stopped and removed the cable from the transfercase end to protect whatever it was that was causing the trouble. �Today I got back to it. �I found the the speedometer was stiff to turn. �I removed it. �I oiled the oil port again and let it sit for a while. �It didn't get any easier to turn. �I oiled it again and waited. �Still didn't get any easier. �Ten years ago I had a similar problem with the speedometer of a 57 Chev pickup I was restoring. �I disassembled the speedometer, cleaned it, and lubricated it and it has worked fine ever since. �Remembering that I opened up the crimped bezel and removed the internals from the housing. �I cleaned and lubricated it. �That made the difference. �It now turns freely and smoothly. �The 57 Chev speedometer did not mount from the front of an instrument panel and have to fit smoothly against it. �Of course, this one does. �Has anyone had success in re-crimping the face bezel (without breaking the glass lens) so that it will fit smoothly and evenly against the dash? �I'll get back to in in a few days and will do my best but if someone has already been there and done that, there is no substitute for experience and I'd appreciate your help before I give it a try. �Thanks.
-
Calvin, don't worry about how to crimp the bezel, read the PM I sent.
-
Here's an idea, although its not the speedo, it's the same concept.
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=6838&highlight=bezel
http://www.willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules.php?set_albumName=album185&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
-
From what I have seen on the many speedometer restoration threads over on the G 503 board, proper crimping starts with proper removal of the bezel. We don't have the luxury of the old time speedo shop with stacks of new glass and bezels ready to install, so we have to remove the old one with the least amount of damage. Turning a piece of pipe or round stock to an inside diameter that just barely fits over the bezel will give you a tool to set the speedo case in as you gently pry the back side of the bezel off. Use a sharpened paint can opener or similar to hook into the crimped edge, and work around the speedo moving it a little at a time. Keep downward pressure on the speedo case towards your turned tool so it doesn't pop out. The pipe will hold the outer part of the bezel that you see when it is in the dash in its original shape so you don't need to reform that part of it when you are reassembling.
After several trips around the backside with your paint can tool, you should be able to pull the speedo off the bezel. The idea is to slowly work it away from the speedo case without stretching it, or putting any large creases in it that will be impossible to remove later.
Reinstallation is also done with the bezel inserted into your pipe. Again, a little at a time, bend the crimp area back using a hard plastic or wood tool, shaped to fit in the finished groove. You actually are shrinking the metal as you go, and just a little downward motion at a time is the best way to do it, instead of flattening it on one area and then moving on. The tool shown in the link is a great way to do that, altho I would prefer one made of aluminum or nylon.
Carl, do you have a way to lubricate the speedometer without taking it apart?
-
Yes, but Calvin doesn't so he took it apart. There are some places that can't be reached by external means and I am sure there was no choice than to take it apart. The important thing when crimping the bezel is to be gentle to avoid breaking the lens. Calvin is an air frame mechanic and I'm sure he was extremely careful taking it apart and will be putting it together. I'll make him a crimping tool for the bezel. It will all work out ok.
-
When I first started this thread a while back my concern was getting the speedometer back together with a nice re-crimp on the bezel without breaking the glass lens. Some good responses of encouragement and hot links to other sites were helpful. �One of Carl's responses contained the following:
I'll make him a crimping tool for the bezel.
That made me feel better. �I waited for Carl's fixture to arrive and then began the reassembly. �Here a a few pics of the procedure.
Speedo bezel and Carl's machined plate.
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc001.jpg)
Bezel in machined plate.
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc004.jpg)
Lens with original cork gasket still attached go down next with the gasket between the bezel and the glass. I added a small amount of RTV (white) between the gasket and the glass lens to aid with the seal. �
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc005.jpg)
Inner bezel ready to go down next (some of the RTV oozing out--cleaned up easily ofter curing).
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc006.jpg)
With the speedometer in place the beveled clamps are ready to be tightened to start the re-crimping process. �
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc017.jpg)
After the beveled clamps were tightened the non-beveled clamps replaced the beveled ones for the final crimping action. �It worked well, however, the speedo face bezel fit just tight enough in the base plate to prevent the rotation of the speedometer. �The intent was to rotate the speedometer about 15 degrees and repeat the crimping process until the crimping was complete all the way around. �
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc019.jpg)
Using the machined base plate as a weighted holding fixture I gently worked my way around the bezel with a 1/4 inch drift punch till the process was finished. �
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc020.jpg)
I was pleased how well the bezel re-crimped.
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc022.jpg)
It is good to have my original speedometer back together after cleaning and re-lubrication without breaking the glass lens, with much credit for that going to Carl's tooling fixture. �A test drive revealed that it now performs smoother than it ever has since I've owned the Jeep. �
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/Speedometer/AsplundBeateMisc040.jpg)
Carl and I have discussed the problems encountered and he has plans to machine a ring to replace the beveled and non-beveled clamps. �The inner radius of the ring will be beveled on one side and not on the other. �That will allow the beveled edge to start the re-crimping process all at once. �Then by turning the ring over the non-beveled edge can finish the job, again, all at once. �He plans to make the fixture available to anyone who needs it and is willing to pay shipping costs. �Thanks Carl.
-
I used a screwdriver to pry all of my bezels off, cleaned the glass, and then recrimped them with pliers taped up on one side. Works fine I suppose. Bezels were then hand painted after they were put back together.