My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: Comanche_County on December 02, 2011, 05:05:13 PM
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Just wondering what you guys have done for broken stud removal. I've got two on engines and a bunch more on the frame and other parts.
Pictured is a broken stud on my 50', the 51' has the same issue. �Given the age of these engines, I figure the exhaust studs are rusted fast in the block. � I don't think an extractor will do the job and I don't want to drill into the block if I don't have to. �Not sure if a heli-coil would be strong enough either. �If my little Lincoln 125 is up to it, I'll try this technique when it stops raining. �http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Asb4RWMvig
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6442545513_066ded6c44_z.jpg)
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Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. If the stud is badly rusted in the block most times it has to be drilled out and if the threads can't be cleaned up it has to be drilled out for a heli coil. A heli coil is strong enough to hold the manifold and they are strong enough to hold a head bolt stud also.
If you drill it out be sure to get centered in the bolt when you drill it.
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�http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Asb4RWMvig
Cool idea.
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I guess if the weld won't stick I'll remove the fender and start drilling.
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That MIG welding technique works well. If you have to start drilling - patience is the key. Go SLOW. Begin with a sharp 1/8" drill bit and center it the best you can. Go SLOW. Don't drill too deep. Go SLOW. Then gradually move up to larger bits. Go SLOW. Left hand drill bits work good because the bolt may just screw its self out while you are drilling. If you decide to try an "Easy Out" don't use a lot of force on it. A broken Easy Out (or drill bit) is not easy to get out. When you get up to a 5/16" drill bit, the bolt is gone with only the threads remaining in the block. A very small chisel can be used to dislodge the threads from the block. I use a center punch with end ground at a sharp angle instead of a point. A tap can be used to help break the threads loose but be careful and Go SLOW.
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Yeah good advice fellas.
When I first looked at this Jeep, being freshly bitten by the Willys bug, first thing I asked was if it ran. The PO hollered out for his pops. Then an old country fella in his late 70s with one eye and three fingers came out to greet me, poured a little gas in the carb, said some magical words, waved his three fingers over the engine, got in and hit the stomp button once and it fired right up and purred like a new born kitten full of warm milk. I bought it. Get it home, won't run....fiddle over the right magic words to say, then finally it runs, backfires a cloud of smoke through the carb like Vesuvius, then settles down and idles good, 30 seconds later it blows the exhaust pipe right off the manifold flange. I brake both lower manifold bolts, then to fix that I figure I've gotta pull the manifold and here I am. Trying to figure why I didn't inherit the one-eyed three fingered magical backwoods powers that should be running through me, the old guy said he knew my now deceased "Papa" and that we were surely related somewhere down the line. Guess I didn't get the "make any engine run" gene.
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Bob's advice is excellent.
I'm a great proponent of reverse twist drills. If you buy good ones and use them carefully and SLOWLY as Bob says, you probably won't ever need an EasyOut.
In my 40 years of removing broken studs, the reverse twist drill has never failed me.
Buy good ones - Grainger, Northern Tool, whoever is your favorite supplier.
The ones from Harbor Freight can barely drill hard wood, like old oak. Don't bother trying them on metal.
You must start with a �center punch so you are drilling in the center. Duh.
Start small and work your way up.
Be sure you're drilling STRAIGHT and SQUARE or you'll hose up the threads.
If you do, HeliCoils are your lifesaver. I've also used them for over 40 years and they are the best. Especially for saving threaded holes in aluminum. As Bob said, they're good for manifolds, heads, whatever.
Good luck.
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All good advice, I had a broken one as well, we heated the just the bolt to soften it, it would get cherry red and the block did not as it dissipated the heat well. Once the bolt was hot we drilled with the reverse bits and slowly we got it all out, helicoiled it an its good to go!!
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I tried the welding trick, didn't work. I welded 6 different nuts on it and all of them broke off....then it rained for the last couple of days. I'll get the drill out tomorrow.
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Good luck with the drill. Be patient and take your time. A little extra time spent now will save a lot of time by not having to go to the next step. Please reread and head Bob W's reply above. Again, Good Luck!!
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CC,
This is going to be a work of precision, you might think about getting a set of centering punches in order to find the exact center of the bolt when you center punch it. Another tool I would get is a pilot Point drill bit, that way you can keep the bit in the center of the bolt. Here's alink to the Grainger page. Your plumbers torch may not have enough juice to get the bolt hot, you may want to get a few more BTUs cause those babies are hard. Let us knowhow it works out.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?op=search&N=13682&in_dim_search=1
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They are right about the plumbers torch but MAPP gas gets things a lot hotter with that torch
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Ok this is going to sound weird, but soak the rusted threads in coca cola (no kidding). I've heard quite a few stories from folks who swear by this technique...worth a try...
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Forgot to update this but I finally got it repaired drilling the remnants out a week or two ago. �It took a while for me to get the courage to drill it. �But it really wasn't a problem. �I did start just a little to high but downward pressure and a sharp drill bit, I got it re-centered. �I started with small bits and worked my way up in size until I could see the tips of the female threads of the block, but I could not dig out the remaining male threads of the stud. �I tried to get a tap in but no joy, so I just installed a heli-coil. �I guess I drilled too far though because when I punched through what I thought was the back of the stud I got into the water jacket?
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7066/6977883257_ac15478214_z.jpg) �
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7190/6831755870_c60800000a_z.jpg)
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Yes, it looks like you drilled through the water jacket. Having a heli-coil makes it tougher but coat the threads of the new stud with plumbers pipe dope and hope for the best.
Larry
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I got her running today! � ;D �Here's a video: �http://www.flickr.com/photos/37014918@N07/7012542317/. I guess I ought to make a youtube account, but for now its on my flikr.
Then I took her for a spin, there's no brakes mind you,,,,anyway, the last test drive made it about 220 yards till it died and decided not to start again, this time I only made it about 100 yards, same darn thing. �Seems like it will idle fine till it was warmed up and driven, then it doesn't want to run. �Obviously my "Willys Chi" is running low. �I couldn't get the darn thing to idle for the life of me. �I tried both of my WOs, same thing. �I could start it by completely choking the carburetor with my palm and it would settle down to idle, then die as soon as I let air in. �I need to read up on the WOs and give them a proper going through, one had gas soaking through the carb gaskets a bit, the other has very loose linkage. �In fact its just plain sloppy but the engine ran better with it. �That's the carb that is idling nicely in the video. �
Also, just curious if you guys have seen this before. �Its a master cylinder fill tube with slip on cap. �I don't really like it at all.
(http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6091/7012545225_9c2d2d5c08_z.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6866434360_032ea79b42_z.jpg)