My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: garage gnome on March 05, 2012, 07:18:54 AM
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Hey Guys, I wanted to post up my restoration of my '53 3A to inspire those who are still working on theirs and like Calvin said, to reminisce. Lets see if we can do a a complete frame off restoration in a week! �:o
A little background on my Jeep. My dad brought it home in 2001 when I was 8. The guy we got it from also threw in this neat little minibike from the 40s called a doodle bug. The interesting thing about my Jeep is it was bought by a huge chemical company, Monsanto Chemical Co in Springfield MA. The weird thing about that is my two grandfathers worked there during the time the jeep was there and both could have driven it. �[smiley=huh.gif] So, it does have some family history behind it.
Enough talk, lets get to work! This is what it first looked like when I started the restoration in 2007. It was pretty rough, but is was all there and in good driving condition.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0403.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0404.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0405.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0406.jpg)
And the tear down http://cj-3a.com/forum/Smilies/evil.gif
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0423.jpg)
We cheated and used the excavator to take the body off. �[smiley=laugh.gif]
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0425.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0477.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0478.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0500.jpg)
And down to bare frame! The frame was in pretty good shape. The only rot was the rear bumper, all the body mounts and the crossmember where the rear shock mounts are.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0501.jpg)
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Nice going! Love to see a CJ3a get revived. Pix are always great to see.
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Nice photo's of the Jeep but were is the photo of the mini bike :(. Did you fix it and ride it? I got my son a mini bike in 1976 and almost wore it out riding it everyday after school. Now he rides Harley's and has a Harley chopper. In fact he has two Harley's and his wife has one.
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Cool, I will be following this one. What is the complete serial number of this CJ-3A?
Thanks,
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Cool, I will be following this one. What is the complete serial number of this CJ-3A?
Thanks,
Bob, my 3A's VIN is 453-GB1-13268.
It is a '48 doodlebug sold by western flyer. It has a very rare briggs and stratton model NP kickstart engine (now my antique engine side is taking over �::)). It runs great and starts on the first or second kick. Its all original too. �:)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/randoms/P5030747.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/randoms/P5030746.jpg)
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Bob, my 3A's VIN is 453-GB1-13268.
Thanks! One more question and I will leave you alone for a while �:)
Is the front passenger seat's left rear leg shaped like an L or is it trapezoid shaped?
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(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0403.jpg)
Oooh, a snow plow mount? �Even though I live in TX, and would never use it, I still want one (you never know, hehe). �Sold mine when I left CO, wish I still had it. �Snow plows are kinda like chainsaws, guns, tractors, Jeeps, proper fishing gear, a boat, etc,,,they fit in the "what everyman should own at some time or another" category.
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Bob, my 3A's VIN is 453-GB1-13268.
Thanks! One more question and I will leave you alone for a while �:)
Is the front passenger seat's left rear leg shaped like an L or is it trapezoid shaped?
It is an L shaped leg. I don't care how many questions you ask, ask away! �:)
Yeah, the plow it had was a 4 way. I still have all the stuff, along with two more 2 ways. ::) I don't think I would put it on any jeep though. They really take a beating from it.
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Thanks again! I will probably have more questions when you post more photos :)
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GG- nice project! The Doodlebug is great too.
Is that backseat original?
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That is a neat scooter and I like it the way it is. I have a plow for my Jeep but I don't think I'll be putting it on because. like you said, it beats the Jeep real hard.
I think I will modify it for my tractor or sell it.
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GG- nice project! The Doodlebug is great too.
Is that backseat original?
The back seat is an original one, for a 2A or early 3A. Not original to my jeep though. I've had several offers from the 2A guys to buy it. It now resides in my '49 3A. ;)
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My dad and I had built a rotisserie for the frame so I could spend countless hours sandblasting it. Sorry, I don't have any pictures of that. I wasn't too good at documenting stuff in my younger years. ;D It was also helpful when we put the axles on too.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/100_2967.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/100_2963.jpg)
And of course, the rebuilt Lhead. We had some Pontiac blue leftover from when my dad rebuilt his GTO engine. I like it. I also would like to know, is that fuel filter off the carb original? It is a Carter product, I was thinking it was.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0097.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0096.jpg)
Oh, and I scored these two free junks. My dad was talking to some guy and well, one thing led to another. �[smiley=laugh.gif]
The 3B was all original and complete. Just the body was completely shot and the rear frame was rotted out. That donated many parts. The CJ5 was heavily bubbafied. Only thing I used from that was the 10" WORKING brakes. I'm so glad I did that upgrade.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/HPIM0013.jpg)
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At this point in the restoration, we had the rolling chassis complete. I was getting pretty excited when I could actually drive it around!
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0124.jpg)
and the running chassis.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0143.jpg)
The first time we started it up, it ran great for like 5 seconds and then for no reason, it shut off. Turned out the oil pump locked up. >:( The teeth broke off the oil pump gear. Everything else about the engine was perfectly fine. This was a new melling pump. guys on the CJ2A page have had similar problems too. Some even broke the cam gear.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/HPIM0153.jpg)
I found a set of cutlas hubs in a junkyard. Picked those up for $30 with the axle attached. :)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0115.jpg)
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That oil pump problem is becoming epidemic. More and more guys are having that kind of experience to the point where I would advise anyone to give the existing pump a good goings over and keep it rather than install one of those problematic replacements. In this day and age there's just no excuse for the number of failures we're seeing. You may need to drop the pan and see if any of the bearings spun, starting with the rear main and working forward.
Larry
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We took care of it. No bearings spun. It had good oil pressure (40) when it was running. At least it shut off right away when the pump locked up. There is no excuse why a modern pump would do that. I rebuild the original one and its been fine since.
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At this point in the restoration, we had the rolling chassis complete. I was getting pretty excited when I could actually drive it around!
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0124.jpg)
and the running chassis.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/HPIM0143.jpg)
We are looking at one of God's greatest creations, that frame is a thing of beauty...I have "straight frame jealousy" right now.
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What is the engine serial number?
Thanks!
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Gunslingers reply with some great info has been moved to [link=http://cj-3a.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1331229615]This Thread[/link]
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What is the engine serial number?
Thanks!
Its 3J14208. I think there is another number after the 8 (the last few digits are hard to read). It is stamped really light compared to my '49 3A.
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We are looking at one of God's greatest creations, that frame is a thing of beauty...I have "straight frame jealousy" right now.
Haha, thanks. It is pretty pitted in the back though. I'm glad it wasn't hacked up or anything.
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Its 3J14208. I think there is another number after the 8 (the last few digits are hard to read). It is stamped really light compared to my '49 3A.
Thanks again �:)
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Bob, does the number I gave you match up with any 53s? I mean, do any others have the same amount of digits? I was looking through the database here, and that number would fit in with up to 51. I'm pretty sure the engine is original to the jeep
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Judging by the characteristics of block there must be another digit, as you mentioned. 3J14208x is a bit higher than what I would expect to see in a 1953 CJ-3A although anything is possible. What is the casting number on the passenger side of the block and the numbers and letter on the drivers side near the rear?
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The casting number is: 641087-W-13-D-P5 CU CR
on the drivers side it has:
13T
10 15 D
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Hey, GG,
Looking forward to the next installment....bring it!!
Your work really looks terrific. How old are you again?
Tim
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Hey Gnome, do you have any shots of the brake set up, I've got some 10 inch hardware and I'm trying to figure out how the heck to hook it all up.
thanks, nice build bTw.
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Nate,
I'd say your engine is original. The serial number is a bit higher than the normal skew (this stuff happens all the time with Willys) but the casting numbers are a good fit. There should be another digit at the end of the serial number.
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Thanks Bob! I thought it was original, but I wasn't 100% sure because it had looked like someone replaced the engine. All the bolts for the bell housing were not originals.
Tim, I turned 19 In January. I started restoring this when I was 14 during the summer between 8h grade and 9th. I finished it when I was a�Junior when I just got my license.
Sorry gunslinger, I don't have any shots of the 10" guts. I can take one tomorrow for you. Do yours have a self adjusting mechanism?
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Since the chassis was done, it was time for body work, oh joy. �::)
Since my tub was so bad and wasn't worth the time in repairing it, I bought a reproduction body kit, which was still no better (you will see later on why). I didn't use the windshield frame because it was really crappy compared to my original, which was in real nice shape.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/100_4864.jpg)
We started by building the jeep, so all the holes and fitment would be there after paint and it would hopefully go together smoothly.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/100_4911.jpg)
I probably drove it around for a month like this! This pic made it into the 2010 Early CJ5 calendar. At one point, we had everything on it like lights. My advice would be if you do buy a repro tub, build the entire jeep first then paint.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1952%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/100_4981.jpg)
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This is why a repro body sucks. I'm sure the original isn't much better either. I had to use a a lot of bondo to make it straight and look nice.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5310.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5308.jpg)
All that hard work sure payed off! The primer coat looked real nice. :)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5322.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5321.jpg)
And it looked even better in color! I used base coat - clear coat. The color is standard red from a 90's GM pickup.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5372.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5379.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5381.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5380-1.jpg)
My dad starting the paint/showing me how to do it.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5355.jpg)
And me taking off with it.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5359.jpg)
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This is why a repro body sucks. I'm sure the original isn't much better either. I had to use a a lot of bondo to make it straight and look nice.
My repro tub looked just like that before primer. �Had I known how much body work would have been required on the repro I would have considered more seriously trying to salvage my original. �
The worst problem I had with the repro tub was the misalignment of the hole over the transmission. �It and the firewall seemed to be about an inch and a half to far rearward. �I'm glad I bolted the tub to the rolling chassis before paint so that the cutting, welding, and grinding could all be completed prior to paint. Did you have any such problems?
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/JeepRebuildIII016.jpg)
Worked out okay with a lot of effort. �Had to shorten the tranny cover panel to fit the new opening.
(http://i389.photobucket.com/albums/oo336/calvinhunt/JeepRebuildIII003-1.jpg)
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Yes, I had that same problem too. I notched the opening so I could go in low range and I also had to notch it for the OD shifter too. My original body was so bad, I couldn't even save the tranny tunnel!
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Sorry guys, I had no time to post up some more of the build.
Fast forwarding through the assembly of the body, she came together really nicely.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/DSC01018.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/DSC01122.jpg)
My dad buffing it.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/DSC01124.jpg)
We finished it on Easter Sunday by putting the windshield glass in and we took if for a drive over to my Grandparents!
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5492.jpg)
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Neat pics, even neater LIFT you got there.. Nothin like top of the line ROTARY lifts!! I miss the lifts I used to use every day......but someday I'll get a shop built with high enough ceilings to have another..
So....how did buffing out the tub go with all those body lines, lettering, ribs, etc??? I helped Alan Boyd buff out Lefty once, it was a royal pain to do and there were spots I couldn't get to with the big buffer...And that Luzon red needs polishing quite often.
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Haha Bill, that what my Dad's business does, we install Rotary lifts and can pretty much equip a shop with exhaust systems and lubrication equipment. If you want a good used one, we have plenty, the next time you're up here, let me know. ;)
The buffing went pretty good. There is still a little compound in the seams like the center of the hood. I scraped most of it out though.
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garage gnome,
In this recent pics of your restoration you have a great one of your hood. It looks perfect. Is it a reproduction hood as well? I had a lot of grief with my MD Juan hood. I had to use bondo, and that the last place I wanted to use it.
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I did use a little on the hood and fenders, just to hide the nasty looking spot welds. Other than that, nothing. I guess I got lucky with a decent repro hood. My original one had major oil canning and it would have looked really stupid.
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GG
Tell me about those tires, they look nasty cool!! Fit the Jeep nicely.
Todd
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They are 7.00x15s made by Star-Richmond Tire Co. They also have double purpose on the side. Sad thing is, I'll have to replace them this year. They are getting pretty low on tread. �:(
I'd also like to share some modifications I did, that I didn't post up. Besides the Harrison heater mods in this thread (http://cj-3a.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1330868740), these are some subtle things I did.
I made this little bracket that bolts to the tranny. It is for a reverse light switch. Its been on there for 3 years now and has been working great.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5287.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5286.jpg)
I also found this really neat glass ball reflector.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5480.jpg)
And to put turn signals on, I made 8 aluminum spacers, 4 per side, to push the stock parking light lens out further for a dual filament bulb.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5455.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5457.jpg)
The turn signal switch I used, it came off an early 3B. Looks more correct than the ones from the parts vendors.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5507.jpg)
I got a brass fire extinguisher and a really rare 3 barrel tire pump. Neither work, just for looks.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_7248.jpg)
And my favorite mod was the jerry can holder. It bolts to the draw bar and has a pin to remove it so the tailgate can be opened.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5772.jpg)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5774.jpg)
And of course, the original type soft top!
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_6404.jpg)
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I was in the shower and realized a forgot some things!
I added an OD to the mix. Instead of using the rubber boot, I used another T84 leather shifter boot. Some trimming and it looks factory.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_6037.jpg)
A power outlet and stainless grab bar
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_7218.jpg)
Dual MC conversion (and stainless break line kit, which I had done early on). You'll see the reason why I decided to change out. ;)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_7069.jpg)
Replaced the cheap plastic seat belts with chrome lift latch ones.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_7032.jpg)
The way I mounted my tub. I used some hockey pucks and valve springs. Why? Well, the springs allot the frame to flex more independently from the tub. Yes, they do work great! I did this on my trail rig. I used to have problems with body weld breaking and now I don't.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/DSC01068.jpg)
And you're probably asking, why the heck are there no hood blocks!?!?! Simple answer, I don't need them. The top is a pain to take off, and I have this little handy device. It a hood prop rod that was on a junk 2A hood. I made a little doohicker that bolts on the grille for it to go in and locks it there so the wind can't take it.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/100_5470.jpg)
And how my engine compartment is today. I made a stainless battery bracket and converted it to a delco 10si alternator. Incase anyone is wondering, the alternator is compatible with the stock wiring harness. No modifications have to be made.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/3807cd99.jpg)
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Were did you get the 90� brake fitting. I need them for my cj3a
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Herm the overdrive guy sells them. I just ordered the bracket and banjo bolts from him. Bubba had put a dual MC in a junker I have and it turned out the MC was the correct one for this swap.