My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: Paddy on November 26, 2010, 10:39:10 PM
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I ordered two new rear shocks and 4 washers from Walck's for the rear of my '49 3A as they weren't present when I bought her. Here's my problem how do you get the washer compressed tight enough against the rubber bushing in order to be able to drop the cotter pins in their respective holes? It's as if the washer is about twice as thick as it should be. And is the washer necessary?
Thanks.
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When I installed new shocks on my Jeep I ended up using all new cadmium plated, tempered steel alloy aircraft washers. They are the same surface area and strength but thinner and lighter for aircraft use. However, in helping other Jeep owners with shock installation I ground just a little from each rubber bushing face in order to obtain the desired dimension. I used a table top disk sander. A more readily available bench grinder will do nearly as well if you are careful. The washer IS necessary to keep the cotter pin from cutting into the rubber bushing. The washer evenly distributes the compression load against the cotter pin.
Other members will probably respond with different solutions.
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There is/was a special tool for compressing the bushing to install the cotter pin. I made up something by using a C-clamp and cutting slots in a short length of pipe. The pipe goes over the washer with the slots lined up on the cotter pin hole. Compress the bushing by tightening the clamp and then stick the cotter pin in through the slots. It's not ideal but it works.
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I did the same thing,using a C-clamp, but used a short length of .75" wide steel channel in lieu of the slotted pipe. Now I get to do it again, because the contterpins I used were aluminum, not steel. I think I will try the slotted pipe trick this time. Jim
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Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a shot.
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I took a pair of vice grips and set them so they were shut but loose on either side of the shaft that holds the shock absorber, and had my dad push the vice grips inwards twords the frame while I pushed the cotter pin in the hole.
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Here's what the factory tool looks like:
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/S53000121.JPG)
Here's a homemade rig using a pipe nipple slotted out and a C-clamp:
(http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/ab191/rocketeer_2010/Jeep/shock_tool.jpg)
Larry
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Larry, Your homemade tool looks like it would work better than the smaller factor tool. Your homemade appears to allow more room to work.
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Doug, it's not my tool but a photo from my archive of over 10,000 photos, although I do use something similar. �People who have used the factory version have never had good things to say about it. �:) �I've never used one but have always been wary of the short hook on the end. Looks too easy to twist the tool and have it pop off and bust your knuckle.
Larry
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Thats why I liked my method, it wasn't MY knuckles that would have gotten busted ;)
The C clamp does look like a pretty easy thing to make, I would use it if I ever take the shocks off.
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Rocketeer,
I get it. The photo does the trick, beautifully simple. I'll give it a shot.