My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Modifications"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Incites => Topic started by: Brian M on October 26, 2017, 12:09:26 PM
-
Hi, I thought people might be interested to see this, from what I hear it is quite rare. I haven�t got to run it yet but hopefully soon.
-
WHERE IN TH HECK DID YOU FIND THAT???
Very cool, what's the lettering spell out?
-
It�s a Brian Chuchua head, Chuchua is what the lettering says. I got it 20 years ago from a guy I worked with, I thought it was cool so I bought it for $100. Recently I found out it is a high compression head so I dug it out and fixed it up and decided to put it on while I�m fixing a bunch of other stuff. Should go well with my Clifford cam and header, the 32/26 Weber and distributor recurve.
-
That is just tooo coool! Vintage speed parts rock!
-
There is no sufficiently superlative term to describe the coolness of this head!
You Yankees have all the fun toys.
-
It is pretty cool, I have it all running now and it seems to work well. It runs very well down the freeway, had the needle off the end today getting in front of a semi. It�s hard to say if it�s just the head though, I did a few other things that probably helped too.
-
More, more.
Tell us more.
And pictures.
Also, I assume that head was sand cast. So where is the pattern????
Someone could make more if he had the pattern.
-
I don�t really have much info, Vic Hickey originally designed them and then Brian Chuchua continued on with them, as for a pattern or mold I�m sure they are long gone, this head was probably built 50-60 years ago. I�m thinking about starting a build thread about the work I�ve done and things that will be coming, maybe some people would be interested.
-
I am totslly interested. In fact, Ive been meaning to drive the west coast highway soon with my partner. Maybe we could stop by for a visit?
-
That could be fun, let me know if you make it down this way.
-
I�ve driven the Jeep 1,000 miles now. Had a problem about 400 miles in, burnt a valve. I thought it was running lean so I installed a wideband sensor to tell for sure and for the most part I really wasn�t. I actually think the spark plugs were too long, I was running 1/2� reach plugs but with the higher lift cam I actually had 2 spark plugs barely touching the valves and I think it was causing the problem, I pulled it back apart and fixed the valve and also went back the 3/8 plugs and so far no problem. I�ve been messing with the jetting quite a bit but needed more air correction jets for the Weber so I�m currently waiting on those. I will say the Jeep is a goer though, at least for an old Jeep flathead.
-
Well, you can usually rely on me for a dumb question. :-? What are the symptoms of a burned valve? What problems were you having?
Also, which Weber carb. do you have and will it bolt right up to the stock Willys intake manifold? Is it an option to the WO or the Solex for us?
Thanks!
-
I "second that emotion" as they used to say. Tell us more. Many of us want to keep the old engine but want more power. At least 20 or so HP..
-
Well, you can usually rely on me for a dumb question. :-?� What are the symptoms of a burned valve?� What problems were you having?
Also, which Weber carb. do you have and will it bolt right up to the stock Willys intake manifold?� Is it an option to the WO or the Solex for us?
Thanks!
The burnt valve started out as a small miss that I couldn�t get to adjust out with the idle mix screw, eventually it got worse until you could feel the Jeep actually moving up and down. At that point I started pulling plug wires while it ran and found out #1 cylinder wasn�t doing much work, the exhaust valve was leaking.
I run a 32/36 Weber. You can buy a kit that is for the Jeep that has an adapter to fit the stock manifold but I thought it was pretty cheesy so I built a new manifold.
-
I "second that emotion" as they used to say. Tell us more. Many of us want to keep the old engine but want more power. At least 20 or so HP..
I�m not sure you can get 20hp even with what I�ve done, I saw a guy dyno his Jeep with and without another head like mine and he went from 40-47, that�s probably the biggest gain you will get.
-
Well I finally got the Weber tuned I think. I started out trying to use the feel method and that didn�t work out that well so I bought an AEM wideband O2 sensor and then I could see what was really going on. I was having a lot of trouble with a hesitation off idle without having to rich of a main jet and ended up changing the F50 emulsion tube to an F6 and that cured it, I want to try an F3 because my gauge still goes a little lean right off idle sometimes but they aren�t available right now.
My original jetting on the primary started out at:
50 idle jet
155 main
160 air correction
F50 emulsion
I�m currently running:
47 idle jet
160 main jet
190 air jet
F6 emulsion
The secondary is:
50 idle jet
165 main
195 air jet
F50 emulsion
When I started out the gauge always read rich (10s and 12s) and I was getting 13.5 mpg, my last tank I got 17.5 mpg and I might get a little more because I went up a size on the air jet close to the end of the last tank of fuel. The air jet actually seems to make quite a difference on mileage. Now the Jeep idles at 12.5-12.7AFR, and when I�m cruising down the freeway it says 14-15 depending on load, unless I�m come to a hill or anything that requires more throttle then it goes back to 12.5.
I�ve driven the Jeep about 1000 miles since I had the valve problem and now the only trouble I have is it trying to get a little warm on the freeway when it gets close to 80 degrees, so I have a new 4 core radiator on its way.
-
I would get a bit hot in the warm temps too. Not terrible but approx. 110 degrees plus the ambient temp. So if it was 90 degrees out, I might hit 200 on a slight up slope. Hotter than I would like when I know there are guys that never get above 180. Anyway, tried different things - thermostat, water wetter, pump is good, radiator is good. We still have hot weather to come, but I think I have solved the issue by putting a different fan blade on. I had a worn out flexi-fan, and put on a new Derale Flex fan and I am running cooler. Haven't tried the OE fan, but I think I'm where I need to be now.
-
The more compression you make, the more heat you make. Try some water wetter. It's a coolant. I ran it in a High performance 300 six cylinder I used to race. It lowered the temperature 25 degrees.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Red-Line-Oil/816/80204/10002/-1
-
I finally got a new radiator in, what a mess though, do not buy one from prime cooling on eBay. The first one came damaged because their packaging isn�t that great, so they sent me another. Again it came in damaged, this time worse. I contacted them and they wanted to refund me all but $30 and I keep the radiators. I told them I didn�t want to pay for broken radiators I can�t use and just wanted a good one. They said they told ups to be careful with it and wouldn�t send another one, they did refund all my money though. I wasn�t going to let them go to waste so I got the side off and fixed the damaged tube, then had to build new brackets because the ones it has are nowhere near right. It�s all in now and seemed to work fine now.
-
Are you running cooler? Did the rad solve your issue?
-
Yep, I ran it on an 87 degree day and it had no trouble, even ran through town some and it had no trouble staying at 180 with the fan off.
-
And they say old Jeeps can only go 45.
-
Brian I am also going to be running a Weber DGV progressive two barrel. I am curious about one thing though. Why did you chose to run your carb 90 degrees to the way it should be run? I know it makes for a harder adapter or in your case DIY manifold. But you now have effectively one runner much longer then the other which will cause an imbalance.
I went a very different route I have modified a factory made Aluminum manifold to fit the 134L And have the Barrels oriented so that they are across the runners with a nice big Plenum.
I am also going to be creating a Tri Y style header where 1 and 4 are joined then 2 and 3 are joined and via a secondary pipes the two sets are joined exiting the jeep via a 2.25" pipe. This will increase the bottom to mid range Torque as compared to a Clifford 4 into 1 style header which really only helps on the top end. Like 3500 rpm and up.
(http://i.imgur.com/yWhukq9.jpg) (https://imgur.com/yWhukq9)
I still have the mounting flanges to shape and some final polishing. The Phenolic spacer as well as the aluminum with the barrel sized holes also helps increase bottom end torque. And the Phenolic helps keep the carb cool. I also opted to put the PCV and the vacuum port for my gauge in the center to make sure that both sides were even.
I am running a Stock head that has been shaved .035" with the Deck cut .007" and a FelPro composite gasket that results in a 7.2-1 compression ratio with my .060" over bore.
Your jetting numbers will make a nice starting point for me. I'll be doing it old school based on plug color. Though I might go the O2 Wide band route.
-
Cool custom work. How does that carburetor work for you? I was unaware a kit from Weber was available. I run a soled right now and can�t decide how happy I am with it.
-
Bryce my engine is not complete yet so how it runs I do not know. Nothing I am using is factory unless it has been extensively modified. The carb mounting plates I made myself the manifold is actually made for a British sports car. I have to stretch it to get it to fit the 134L.
In a couple weeks I should be into fabbing up my Tri Y design header. I need to get the Engine set into the frame first.
The engine mods I have made are all things I proved on my Wifes 200 L6 powered Mustang. Exactly how well they will work on the 134L is yet to be seen. But I am shooting for about 85HP.
-
Which sports car does that manifold fit, I like what you are doing. I am considering using two kehein constant velocity carbs from a Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 on my project.
-
MG 1500cc engine. You have to stretch the manifold and add a bunch of material on the flanges to be then reshaped to fit. Once you stretch the manifold unless you do it by cutting and adding to each runner. You will have to make a new cab mounting plate as I did since I stretched it in the middle. You will need someone who can do some serious deep TIG welding to make it work correctly. I used a local guy who specializes in welding and one off fabrication stuff. I did all the fab he did the welding.