My Willys 3A and 3B Community
TECH FAQ SECTIONS => EVERYTHING ELSE, General tips => Topic started by: 1955CJ-5 on July 30, 2014, 11:27:06 PM
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I have found a couple of tools that I use frequently enough that I just wouldn't want to be without them now...
How about you?
This set is used to make gaskets, punch holes in canvas and in anti-squeak welting....I got them at Harbor Freight......so you know the price was right!
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;)
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This thread is for tools...
There is a different thread for lubrication ;D
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Sand filled dead blow hammer. I literally put away every other hammer and haven't used them since I got one.
Also one of those old time right angle adjustable wrenches that cars used to have included. They fit spots and they seem to clamp down pretty well.
-Jesse
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This thread is for tools...
There is a different thread for lubrication ;D
I though that it was fuel...
For tools, I'll say vise grip.
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$10 seal puller, angle grinder, small shop press. Not sure how I made it through one rebuiild without these three items. I certainly wouldn't attempt another one without them.
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Yeah...wish I had a shop press....no room for it.....
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Oh my goodness yes you need a press. Mine is mounted on the workbench and I press everything if it needs it or not ;D
-Jesse
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I picked up a small stud finder a while back at Tractor supply. It's the kind that uses a couple of those real strong rare earth magnets and you slide it over the wall until it sticks to a nail or screw. It is really a screw finder and if the guy who screwed the sheetrock up was off, you might be off too with your nail or screw..
It does a fantastic job aligning and holding sheet metal parts flush with each other before tacking them in . Works great to hold the tarp on the truck I'm working on when I cover it up for the night.
I picked it up from the bargain bin for $2.99 and I need to go back and buy about 4 more.
The 4-5 inch angle grinder suggestion is very true...I'd have ten of them if I could afford it, one with a grinding disc, a couple with flap discs for finish work, a thin cutoff wheel mounted in one, and one with a knotted heavy duty cup wire wheel. For occasional use the Harbor Fright ones sometimes hold up pretty good for the money but a Dewalt or Milwaukee or similar quality tool will have more umph and run a long, long time. Don't mess around with the smaller arbored ones, get one with the larger coarse thread that most of the discs and wheels fit..
Any time I see vice grips of any kind made by Irwin or a quality manufacturer at a yard sale I grab them. Very useful for sheet metal work, specially if you luck onto a set of the c clamp ones.
A large chunk of railroad track or I beam to use as an anvil, a similar sized piece of heavy angle, and a bunch of cheap cast C clamps from Harbor Fright make a decent poor man's bending brake and sheet metal forming tool. A Magnabend would be nice to have but at $2000 I stick with my angle iron.
Gotta have a small try square or the rafter layout one that is a triangle for measuring and laying out patches.. A Sharpie is indispensable for rough layout, and a scratch awl for final scribing of the edges of the patch. Measuring tapes are also mandatory, I keep one in my pickup and one in the shop and one on the dresser and one in the kitchen and one on my sign machine, etc....
Can you tell I have been in sheet metal up to my elbows lately? Too bad it is a 66 Ford F 100 instead of my poor neglected jeeps. :D
My buddies welder and plasma cutter are nice too... As is his floor jack , high stands and engine crane.. What I do miss is a nice heavy workbench with a good sized vice.
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I FORGOT...My name is Bill and I am a tool addict.... ;D
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a blacksmith forge [coal or gas] a lot of hammer ,and some of the BFH kind. welder, plasma, mig welder , and a lot of vises ,and a lot of angle grinders . big anvils also.
hell let just say I have a lot of tools.
dennis 8-) 8-)
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Dennis is not kidding!! I've seen his shop....... :)
When he says a lot of hammers....they are like counting grains of sand in a desert.... 8-)
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This is my disposable transmission oil drain funnel....works pretty good and you don't need to take the skid plate off or bathe it in oil..
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A large chunk of railroad track
Anyone have a clue on how to obtain some of this? I have always thought it would be nice to have a small length of it but I haven't any idea where to look to buy.
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A large chunk of railroad track
Anyone have a clue on how to obtain some of this?� I have always thought it would be nice to have a small length of it but I haven't any idea where to look to buy.
The last time I was looking for some, I stopped by the maintence shed of the railyard and just asked someone. They were more than happy to give me a 16" piece that was laying around. I slipped him a $20 bill and we both left happy....(I'm pretty sure he worked there...) Of course, this was 8-10 years ago and scrap price had increased quite a bit since then also.
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[size=12]A good quality Dwell/Tach and a good quality Vacuum Gauge top my list. You don't know which hammer to use or if it is time for Ryan's tool (always keep them cold) to be employed...[/size][/b]
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A press is high on the list. Also a bunch of assorted pullers, from a cheap seal puller to an expensive slide hammer puller. A couple different sets of seal installers have found multiple uses beyond installing seals, too.
And then there are the tools designed for one specific task and can't really be used for anything else, but that one task is *a lot* easier with them. C-clip pliers are an example from the Jeep last weekend. A non-Jeep example is a basin wrench--used for tightening the bolts that hold a faucet down, from underneath the sink.
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A recent discovery...� at least for me, is a wobble head socket extension.� They really help me get into some awkward places on a Willys.
And vise grips....Like FBill, I can't own enough of them.
Tim
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When I changed engines for a living, those wobble extensions were in constant use.. But even better than that, I had wobble sockets, with a universal built right in the socket.. Full set of 3/8 impacts for may small air wrench, and a few sizes of 1/2 drive for bellhousing bolts. .Those got me to some pretty hard to get bolts. And when the bolts are rusted off, a set of rounded bolt remover sockets works wonders...(Think exhaust manifold bolts...) And I still cannot live without some really long extensions...24 inch and 3 foot ones. Good strong thick ones for breaking tight bolts you can't get close to. Lots of times those bolts you swear the engineers were out to get the mechanics with are easy to get to if you got a bit farther back on them.
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Wobble sockets are great...and wobble extensions...
I have one wobble socket, but one day I'll get a 9/16 for those manifold nuts....or maybe a whole set
The 1/4 drive universal ball joint is handy...
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Two of the best tools I have access too are at work. We have a large shop press and a steam pressure washer. The steam washer is GREAT! it blows 60 year old grease of to bare steel faster than anything else out there.
I recently bought one of those cheap parts washers from TSC. I use it quite frequently as well.
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A useful tool for removing or freeing stubborn cylinders heads is 20 feet of 3/8" soft rope or twine. Remove all cylinder head bolts, remove all spark plugs, find the cylinder that is at the bottom of its stroke. Feed in the rope thru the spark plug hole, one you can get no more rope in the cylinder either bump the starter or turn over the engine by hand. The rope will be compressed in the cylinder by the up swing of the piston and will push the cylinder head free and up. Make sure you remove any manifolds and accesories that are connected to the head first.
This way there is no need to try to pry the head up with a pry bar etc! and the rope won't damage or scratch anything.
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I will swear by the wobble extensions and sockets. Depending on the brand they are expensive, but worth their weight in gold in the long run.
I would say my most useful tool would be what my dad always refers to as a "blue tipped wrench". An Oxygen/Acetylene torch, in my mind, is a must have in any shop/garage. Although it's not as precise as a plasma cutter in metal cutting, it's cheaper and a hundred times more versatile. Stuck nut/bolt?? Heat it up and yank it off... Still won't budge?? Cut it off and start over. I have yet to encounter a stuck fastener or part that would not break loose with the right amount of heat.
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I don't know why I didn't try this before.....I have used flashlights and or one of those tube type drop lights that are always blinding you because they refuse to shine in the right direction....
I used this today to remove the rear drive shaft and wonder of wonders the light was always pointed at whatever I was looking at....
So if you go spelunking under the Willys try one of these..
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Funny that you should post this. I bought a similar light last week for a completely different purpose but have pretty much been wearing it is the garage ever since. Handy little thing to have.
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A useful tool for removing or freeing stubborn cylinders heads is 20 feet of 3/8" soft rope or twine. Remove all cylinder head bolts, remove all spark plugs, find the cylinder that is at the bottom of its stroke. Feed in the rope thru the spark plug hole, one you can get no more rope in the cylinder either bump the starter or turn over the engine by hand. The rope will be compressed in the cylinder by the up swing of the piston and will push the cylinder head free and up. Make sure you remove any manifolds and accesories that are connected to the head first.
This way there is no need to try to pry the head up with a pry bar etc! and the rope won't damage or scratch anything.
[size=14]GENIUS![/size][/b]
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If you need both hands to do something else while looking for tdc an adapter from an old vacuum gauge, a piece of plastic hose, and a loud whistle works every time.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w428/cbnichols/SAM_0099.jpg) (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/cbnichols/media/SAM_0099.jpg.html)
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Very cool! I like this idea along with the rope idea to free up a stuck head. Ingenuity like this is worth more than a $50 tool!
If you need both hands to do something else while looking for tdc an adapter from an old vacuum gauge, a piece of plastic hose, and a loud whistle works every time.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w428/cbnichols/SAM_0099.jpg) (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/cbnichols/media/SAM_0099.jpg.html)
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Headlamps - Oh Yeah.
I converted to headlamps years ago and now have SEVERAL.
I have a mottley collection of them that use AA or AAA cells. They are scattered around the house and in some tool boxes.
I also have, in each car, one that uses lithium cells so it can ride in the car for 3 years and it will still light up when I need it. This is the current version of it:
http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Survival-Technologies-Headlamp-Black/dp/B00CMWFLOE/ref=dp_ob_title_sports
Head lamps rock.
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And how did we exist without tie-wraps and Velcro? I haven't a jeep use for Velcro yet but tie wraps.....they are perfect on the steering seals that don't fit and the rattly top frame....
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Good idea on the drag link covers. All of mine are just floating around.
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And how did we exist without tie-wraps
Tell me about it! I have zip ties on my tailgate chains to keep them from rattling on the gravel roads...
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No workbench or Shop fridge should be without a set of these little beauties!! No more chipped teeth opening those Angry Orchards and Coronas. The "motto" inscribed on the lower "Tool" says it all..
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I know I have one of those bottle openers somewhere, but I'm still looking...I may have to go to the antique store and pick one up ;D
If you are planning any brake work, like replacing shoes...save yourself some grief and get a pair of these brake spring pliers...
The pointed end goes against the shoe lining, and the hook pulls the spring nicely into position...I think I paid $8 for this pair...worth every penny!
And the electric rattle gun is perfect for zipping long bolts in and out. It won't loosen the really tight ones, or tighten them a whole lot, but it sure saves the wrist and elbows...
I used to use a screw gun but it would try to twist your wrist around backwards once in awhile...
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I know I have one of those bottle openers somewhere, but I'm still looking...I may have to go to the antique store and pick one up ;D
If you are planning any brake work, like replacing shoes...save yourself some grief and get a pair of these brake spring pliers...
The pointed end goes against the shoe lining, and the hook pulls the spring nicely into position...I think I paid $8 for this pair...worth every penny!
And the electric rattle gun is perfect for zipping long bolts in and out. It won't loosen the really tight ones, or tighten them a whole lot, but it sure saves the wrist and elbows...
I used to use a screw gun but it would try to twist your wrist around backwards once in awhile...
I see you're in southwest ID, how far are ya from the Twin Falls area?? Rick
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Looks like the brake pedal is in the clutch pedal postion.
(http://www.cj3apage.com/3Ayabbfiles26/Attachments/P1070954.JPG)
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Looks like the brake pedal is in the clutch pedal postion.
(http://www.cj3apage.com/3Ayabbfiles26/Attachments/P1070954.JPG)
Thanks Bob, I thought someone might notice that!
It's been that way as long as I can remember but someday I'll crawl under there and change them....
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Hi Rick,
I'm in Boise....
I looked at your map location to see if you were close by and it showed you way up in the mountains somewhere East of Redfish Lake...!
Edit: Hey! I just looked at my profile and my map puts me East of Redfish Lake too!!
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Looks like the brake pedal is in the clutch pedal postion.
(http://www.cj3apage.com/3Ayabbfiles26/Attachments/P1070954.JPG)
Order has been restored.....and the tool at the bottom is a ratcheting end wrench from Sears...it works fine but doesn't get used that often...
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Many of us rebuild our Carter WO carburetors. I have avoided removing the aluminum rivets/plugs because I don�t have the special tools to pull and reset them. The tool... T-109-42 or -43
On my last rebuild, I really wanted to get into these passages to make sure they are spotless, so I got creative.
This is a very small pry bar I found at Home Depot. I sharpened the back side with my bench grinder. This works well to pull the old rivets.
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/710dd47f38f5cafd60ed75984323ee0c_zpsdf6e7898.jpg)
After cleaning, I needed to re-seat the new rivets. I took a scrap 3/8� steel rod, cut it to around 3�, then drilled a dimple in the end with a 3/16� drill bit. It was trial and error when determining how deep to drill. See the result below. This worked well, and looked identical to the originally installed rivets.
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/7a59a19422b078921266ede518a08e61_zps756d8120.jpg)
Again, a decent option should you not have the actual Carter tool T 190-42 or -43
Tim
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Great stuff here
[smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif]
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In trying to fit my windshield frame in place I discovered that with the installation of the new cowl seal the latching brackets were too low. No amount of force with a screwdriver would budge them. Great.
I thought I was going to have to weld a nut onto each screw head so I could use a ratchet, or worse, drill them out.
Instead, I discovered this today - Impact screwdriver. I never even knew they existed until this afternoon but picked one up at Harbor Freight for $7.99
It was still an epic battle but several good whacks with a BFH and all the screws were out. No welding, no drilling.
Another amazing HF purchase. How do you even make the thing for $7.99? Or ship it here from China for $7.99? Let alone both and still turn a profit?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150225_181715_zpsuqteo91g.jpg)
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An impact driver can be a very handy thing to have, as you've discovered.
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Ahh yes. A cool tool.
I have a short story. I was having trouble early on with the removal of several screws. You all know these screws�the screws that hold the head lamp buckets to the grill. The two lower screws are always rusty, and nearly impossible to remove.
I mentioned this to my sister. Now, my sister is one of those folks that thinks she knows everything about everything, but is often proven a fool after opening her trap.
So, when she told me she has a tool that would help, I was quite skeptical. First off, she has no tools to speak of. Secondly, because of previously stated facts, I�m thinking she�s been smoking some Colorado dope. [smiley=s8656.gif]
She goes to the trunk of her car, brings out this very tool, shows me how to use it, and low and behold, it worked like a charm.
So, I guess my sister knows a little something, about something, after all.
Don't get me wrong. I love my sister, but sometimes she makes me want to drive a stake through my skull. :D
Tim
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So, I guess my sister knows a little something, about something, after all.
Geez Tim, might be worth sending her home with one of those ol' Carter's that been giving you fits.
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So, I guess my sister knows a little something, about something, after all.
Geez Tim, might be worth sending her home with one of those ol' Carter's that been giving you fits.
;D ;D
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I just rebuilt the rear spring pack on the Model A, and I used this between the leaves when I put it back together.
I haven't driven it yet but the graphite makes it slick to the touch...and it'll dry almost immediately...
So if you ever rebuild your spring packs....
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Now here is another fun tool...I borrowed this one from a neighbor.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908
I think I'd buy one that had picture taking capabilities...
The pic is of the inside of my radiator on the model A..though it looks a little like the Titanic....but you can see that several tubes are blocked.....
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Now here is another fun tool...I borrowed this one from a neighbor.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908
I think I'd buy one that had picture taking capabilities...
The pic is of the inside of my radiator on the model A..though it looks a little like the Titanic....but you can see that several tubes are blocked.....
That is a pretty handy tool!! little bit of surgery on the Jeep. Well found and thanks for sharing
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Thank you, just what I need
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Thanks Randy, my wife has a similar device she uses in her veterinary practice, don't think she'll let me shove it into the radiator tho..
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Now you can get a little camera on a cord that plugs into your computer or smartphone....I have a cheap one (less than $15) and it works OK. I'm sure there are better versions available.
Here is an example..
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Waterproof-HD-2M-7mm-Endoscope-Lens-Mini-USB-Inspection-Camera-with-6-LED-Lights-Borescope-for-Android-Smartphone-PC-Lapt-op/924102324?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=9869&adid=22222222227083850308&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=196367365898&wl4=pla-314984353131&wl5=9029602&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=115780161&wl11=online&wl12=924102324&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpaO_xvjm4wIVA56fCh0FGQ_XEAQYASABEgIcm_D_BwE
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(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/CAM01042.jpg)
Hub puller. Found on e-bay for $25. This is one of the old OTC tools, not the cheap China knockoffs!
I'll also include the HF scissor lift that the jeep is sitting on, money well spent.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/CAM01129.jpg)
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Wouldn't a lift be nice!
Anyone use or recommend, pro or con, a transmission jack or maybe a transmission cradle that fits your floor jack?
Randy
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I purchased this version from Harbor Freight. I don't use it much, but having it around has been quite helpful.
https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lbs-low-lift-transmission-jack-60234.html?_br_psugg_q=transmission+jack
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On transmission jacks, what I've read on the 2A Forum is fabricated adapters for the T90 so you can bolt it on and have it secure when pulling or installing - since the gear boxes are off-centered and unbalanced.
One member made an adapter and shared the drawings with me. Heavy on fabrication. Another guy just used a spare transmission mount and only had to use spacers to attach to the jack:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/transmission-jack-adapter_topic47617.html?KW=transmission+adapter+jack
Imbedded in the thread is a link to buy just the plate so you can have the adapter for your jack.
I think if I ever need to have a jack I'll use the transmission plate. Just seems simpler.
FWIW, all state you need to have the jeep up on jacks to give clearance for the jack/drivetrain to clear under the frame rail.
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Thanks for the suggestions.
Wish I had the space to store a dedicated tranny jack.
The plate idea is good.
My jack has a rubber surfaced pad that is held on with bolts. I could probably remove the rubber, add a wooden base and then add supports as needed.
I would think the tranny/tc will be a little unstable perched on top of a jack.
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I would think the tranny/tc will be a little unstable perched on top of a jack.
I have the transmission jack adapter for my 2-1/4 ton HF jack. I have pulled and re-installed complete transfercase/transmission combos out of my Nissan (looks like the Saturn V rocket as it is massively long). Never had an issue with it wanting to tip over while it was properly secured to the jack.
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This vacuum bleeder sure made life easy...
I just finished replacing all the steel brake lines on the CJ-5 and of course needed to bleed the brakes.
This thing made it a snap.......and it makes my wife happy that she no longer needs to push the brake pedal repeatedly...:)
I used 40-50 lbs of air pressure, and first sealed the threads on the wheel cylinder bleeders with a little Permatex thread sealant, as the vacuum can pull air through the threads.
Just one glitch easily remedied.. The bleeder comes with an I/M style air fitting, and it is locktighted into the bleeder....so I got a coupler and put a T style fitting in it and now have an adapter for my system.
Randy
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Hi Randy,
I recently purchased a similar version (I think it's 4-Uncles) to flush my daily driver. I did add Teflon tape to the bleeders, but I was still sucking in air. I didn't reduce my compressor pressure. (set at 150-160lbs)
I'll cut the pressure and give this thing another try.
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I went entirely the opposite direction.. LOL
I use the Motive pressure bleeder. It pumps up similar to a bug sprayer with a hand pump integrated into the lid. When I first got it, I'd have to use the flat m/c plate secured with a chain around the m/c and tighten it up with thumb screws to get a seal.
Recently, I upgraded to their threaded cap but had to cut my own seals to fit around the threaded portion. I like this method as the pressure unit can hold a lot of brake fluid and you don't have to top off the m/c during the process. Then it's easy to walk around and, in order, bleed each wheel. I also used this on my '95 XJ as they had a cap adapter for that as well.
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I looked at a similar pressure bleeder, and almost went that way, but I wasn't sure of the cap size, both jeeps are different, and I also have an MG which would use yet a different size.
I use both silicone and regular Dot 3 in different vehicles so that also made it a little more complicated.
Tim I hope you get yours to work. Mine drew air initially, but the thread sealant and low pressure worked. I just open the bleeder 1/4 turn or so.
I also use the thread sealant around the pipe threads on the drain and fill plugs in the transmission, diffs and transfer case. So far it has stopped that tiny bit of lube that manages to get by....
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This is a treasure for me. I seldom do anything in my shop that I don't use it at least once.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/2808/medium/P10308581.JPG)
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I like it!
What was it originally used for?...Looks like there is a plaque on the side....
Was it part of a larger machine?
More Pictures!
Randy
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https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=1074.0
Had to find where I put it
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Interesting tool.
Never seen one in person.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT8WrIoAL_8