My Willys 3A and 3B Community
3A, 3B, DJ Technical Knowledge Base => "Original"-- Technical Questions, Answers, Observations => Topic started by: SteveW on March 28, 2015, 03:53:58 PM
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I got a bow set from walcks and it is nice. No surprise but with age and repairs my back crosspiece won't fit as it is too long for the bends in the uprights. Could someone get me a couple measurements of the back set from inside to inside about 6" up from tub rail and then across in line with the spacer rods from the back to the middle bows. Also same measurements at the center bows across inside to inside of the tubing. Within 1/8" should be enough to know what I need to do.Thanks!
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I have had no luck in any searches but am going to put my measurements here and probable cause/fix to it. The back set with a measurement taken 4" up from tub rail is 57" and the measurement up at the rod support line is 55 1/2". The middle bow measurement at 4" is 55 1/4" and up at support line is 56 3/8" I put a magnetic level indicator on the tub side, wheel housing to establish a set point and then measured the degrees from vertical at the measurement heights and allowing for the tubes to be either in side or outside of vertical it is pretty clear the back 90's are over bent in. To the eye it's difficult to see because everything is got somewhat of a curve to it and the middle bows are kicked in to hit the pockets. I will open up the bends until they will allow for the 1 1/2 approx shortage I now have. At least it will be a reference for someone else down the road
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My measurements are ....55 1/4 at the top bow socket at the top of the tub, 56 1/2 give or take a little at the fore-aft support rod on the rear bow.....about the same at the front bow where the fore-aft rods connect
I also have a Walck's repro top frame and a Beachwood enclosure....
These things are not perfectly square...they have a bit of a covered wagon look from the rear...
What I did was to assemble the rear bow with the cross piece, insert one side partially into the socket, then just flexed the assembly until the other side fit into the socket...I think I used a little wax to help the tube slide into the socket....
It sounds as though one of your sockets may not be set vertical...
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Thanks for measurements. I can't believe any part of my tub could be off?
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/tub_resto_pic_11.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/P10002261.JPG)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/P1000224.JPG)
Look at those clean lines, it's just like it came off the assembly floor ;)
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I took my emt bender today and opened up the 90's as they were overbent. I also put a little more bow in the crosspiece as it was flatter than the middle crosspiece. It now fits together and I won't mess with it any more. One thing 1955 if you could is tell me what the height is from top of tailgate to bottom over back crosspiece in the middle.
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I wasn't able to get over to the jeep today...maybe tomorrow....
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Thanks, no problem. I started fitting my door frames and it looks like you can't take the doors off with the top on? The frames were flattened for shipping so when I put the offsets back in maybe I will see it differently but right now it looks like you can't.
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I put mine on with the top in place.....Haven't tried to take them off yet but it should be possible...the door needs to be open half way or so for things to clear....
If you are putting a top on your tub must look a little different now than it did in those previous pictures!
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I took my emt bender today and opened up the 90's as they were overbent. I also put a little more bow in the crosspiece as it was flatter than the middle crosspiece. It now fits together and I won't mess with it any more. One thing 1955 if you could is tell me what the height is from top of tailgate to bottom over back crosspiece in the middle.
Finally....31" from the center bottom of the cross-piece to the top of the tailgate.....
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Thanks, I am a little higher than that but am going to leave it alone until I have top. I did figure out the door issue. The frames were some kind of bent crazy and I was trying to put the passenger frame on the drivers side. I have it set now and it will go on and off with the top installed.
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Keep this going for me as there is another topic on frames also in another forum. It appears that the latches have to be removed for the canvas to be sewn in around the frames and they are riveted. So they have to get taken out right?
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Finally got all the pieces installed and the passenger door frame on. Some things probably are not same as when it left factory but will wait to get the top before I touch anything.
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/frame_door_fitting_3a_001.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/frame_door_fitting_3a_002.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/frame_door_fitting_3a_003.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/frame_door_fitting_3a_004.jpg)
(http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/500/medium/frame_door_fitting_3a_005.jpg)
Will be painting frame black but at least it's progress
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They look great Steve. Nice work.
Tim
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They look great Steve.� Nice work.
I agree!! . . . lots of photos missing between March and June. ;D . . Is that really the same Jeep? :) Amazing progress!
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Questions for anyone with an original style top. I've got a new Beachwood half cab canvas top that I'm trying to fit to my jeep. I'm making the bow set for this. Looking at SteveW's pictures the top of the door frame is below the rod that runs from the windshield to the main bow. Looking at Nate's write up on installing a top, his door frames are higher than the rod. Which is correct. On the rod from the windshield frame, how much is the offset where it connects to the windshield? My first go at the main hoop, I think I have it to high by about 1/2" based on everything I could find but the rear panel is about 1" above the wheelhouse. Is there normally a gap there? That's all for now. Thanks.