My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Project Page for all other Jeeps => Topic started by: Ryan_M on September 29, 2013, 06:49:39 PM
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It was beautiful here today so I popped the rear seat out of my 3A and headed out on a grocery shopping mission. On whim decided I'd take a slight detour to check on an M38 sitting out in the weeds a few miles from me. It's one I posted some pics of here awhile back - some of you may remember. It, of course, was still sitting there so I stopped to talk with the owner, who turns out to be a 90 year old WWII/Normandy/Paratrooper vet. I had previously met his wife but never the old fella himself. We ended up loading him, clad in bathrobe and slippers, into my Jeep for a quick ride around town. I'm pretty sure I had as much fun, if not more, than he did. Anyways, long story short, the M38 found its way onto the back of a flatbed and is now sitting in my garage. I never did get any groceries.
Below are a bunch of "Day 1" photos. I'm not sure what my intentions are at this point. I think I'd just like to fix the minimum so I can safely drive it (brakes, steering, etc) and then reassess. I'm pretty sure the motor is not original. The motor does turn by hand but there is no battery so I couldn't try to start it. The engine fluids are all full and look good. There is a new distributor cap and rotor (a good indication of recent work? or a bad sign that something much worse is wrong with it?) and it was last registered and driven in 2006. Aside from flushing the fuel system, adding fresh gas, and a new battery - is there anything else I should be too concerned with before I at least try to start it?�
The body and frame do have a fair amount of rust but I believe both are still pretty solid overall. I have yet to really climb underneath it though. The tires are newer and in good shape. The Willys hardtop still has the data tag on in and is complete with no broken glass. I'm hoping to at least spend some time cleaning it up this week and just get more familiar with it.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20130929_150241_zpsc63dec22.jpg)
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Oh Wow!� You have more luck driving that jeep of your's around, what with people putting free parts in the bed and all...
It's very cool that you gave the old fellow a ride.....he'll be talking about it for weeks...!
I see all the fording stuff is gone along with the 24 volt system..most take that stuff off anyway.
Put some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and see if that doesn't free things up in a few days...and the clutch might be stuck also....
Keep the pictures coming...it's close enough to a 3a that I'm sure it will be allowed...!
And it looks like it has what I'm told is an Arctic top...with the straight windshield mounts....
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Nice find. I like finding them with hardtops installed. It usually means the transmission wont be full of water!
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Wow! Very nice.
I vote to change your avatar name for M.Lucky.
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I've got a feeling that WW2 Vet cherished that jeep as much as any of us cherish ours. After meeting Ryan I'm sure he knew it was in good hands and about to see a better day. Lucky find but a bit of a responsibility goes with it.
Looking forward to this project....
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I spent some time last night scraping layers of grime off Jeep. Now that I get a better look at it I realize the tub is much worse than I thought. There are numerous patch panels and lots of cracking bondo....and rust pretty much everywhere else. I think the wheel wells and tool box have been replaced at some point too....I think the guy even signed his work. Anyone ever hear of someone named "Bubba"? Although a little disheartening, I have no money into the Jeep (aside from the $20 I tipped the AAA guy for planting it right in my garage) so I'm still ahead.
The motor turns over strong but does not fire as there is no spark. I think the coil is bad and I picked up a replacement this morning (there goes another $19!). Once I get it running I will undoubtedly discover loads of other problems. If I do attempt to fix the tub - and it won't be anytime soon - I think it may be a good excuse to finally learn how to weld. I'd like to strip the whole thing down to the frame tonight and tear through it but from a financial standpoint I need to reign in my enthusiasm a bit on this project.
I'm still just psyched to have this thing and will be even happier if I can at least get it to a point where I can drive around the yard.
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OOOH, SNAP!!! You dog!! I remember drooling over this the first time you spotted it. Now you have a summer driver and a winter driver! It's Karma...You're one of those good guys. Good things happen to good folks! Congratulations.
He gave it to you? Man!
The engine head is WWII or VEC 2A. The radiator might be also. Have you found a serial # yet? What is the block casting #? What's the delivery date?
I'm jealous, but extremely happy for you.
Tim
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Tim - If it would subdue those jealous feelings at all I'll gladly let you come up and work your magic on the rotted tub. It's an ATHAWK special if ever there was one.
And since you asked:
SN : 62101
DoD: 4/52
Data plate on rear wheel well: missing
Engine # on water pump boss: MC84560
Number on head: 639660C
Block casting number: 641087-L-W12A N1-CR-N2 (some characters are tough to read. "C" may be a "G" etc).
Not sure how a WWII head found its way onto an M38 motor but who knows. As we are all aware almost anything is possible with these old beasts.
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Nice fine and when you see the WWII Vet again, thank him for me. You got something special in that meeting that make this a one-of-a-kind Jeep. ;)
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I hope nobody objects to me posting the M38 progress here. I think it's close enough to a 3A to almost count and this page will always be my home base for all things Willys. If anyone gets too cranky the thread can be moved to the "Other Projects" category.
Tonight I installed the new coil and replaced the points. The existing points looked fairly decent but I had another brand new set on the work bench so I threw them in. I took the top off the Solex and cleaned it up as best I could.
I ran a new fuel line from the fuel pump to a plastic jerry can and ran fuel through the pump and into a water bottle to flush out what was sitting in there. After a little fiddling around I managed to get the old girl to start. Surprisingly, it quickly settled into a nice idle and sounds good when revved. Aftermarket oil pressure gauge reads nearly 60 psi. Temp gauge is broken so I'll need to do something about that.
Of course, I had to attempt a test drive - in the dark with no lights except for instrument panel lighting so I could continually confirm that my temp gauge was still broken.
I made it through reverse, first and second gear but did not attempt third. The brake pedal was stuck hard and when I mashed on it (in a half panic after almost shifting to third and then remembering I had no brakes and that the edge of the lake was fast approaching) it finally gave but never released. The brakes noticeably engaged and stayed there. I limped it back to the garage knowing that I'll need to attack the brakes before doing much else. Regardless, I am thrilled I got it running tonight.
Here's a link to the first start video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJchrOEkiIQ&feature=youtu.be
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Awesome!� We have a runner!
I would be highly disappointed if you moved this thread to a different web site.� An M-38 is just the younger sibling to our 3A's.� It's family.� You don't kick family to the curb ;)
Speaking of kicking to the curb...Did your wife lose her parking space in the garage? ;D
Thanks for the numbers.� That is a real nice find.� Even more so now that it's running.
Tim
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Speaking of kicking to the curb...Did your wife lose her parking space in the garage? ;D
I wish I had filmed her initial reaction when she came home from work that night and saw the M38 in "her" parking spot...it would have made for much more entertaining video than a lousy Go Devil coming to life for the first time in years. Let's just say we're still working out the wintertime parking logistics...
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Pretty neat to find a Jeep that's been sitting in a field for God knows how long and get it running just two days later. Nice job!
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Bet you felt as good as I did after my Supersonic came to life. Thanks for the starter. I just haven't driven mine. I got a nice 5.5 acre field and no lakes. LOL
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I agree with Tim.
The M-38 is a sibling - it's family.
Don't even think of taking it away from here.
Though I suppose you should at least let the military boys know you've got it. They'll have lots of info and advice for you.
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Pretty neat to find a Jeep that's been sitting in a field for God knows how long and get it running just two days later.� Nice job!
I love that feeling.� It really amazes me that there are as many of them that actually do start up after sitting for YEARS. The cj2a under my screen name was that way.
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By the way, Ryan, where is your oil filter? ;)
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Work continues - Almost every nut is rusted in place and a lot of them strip. As such an epic battle ensues in removing each one - makes for slow going.
I am wire wheeling and rattling canning the underside in a relatively segmented and haphazard fashion. Certainly not the "correct" way to go about it but a short-term exercise in denial about how bad of shape the tub is really in - "ooh, new paint....pretty!"
I would remove the tub and at least wire wheel and paint the frame if I wasn't afraid the tub would completely fall apart in the process.
All new brake components arrived today so I have some shiny new metal to play with for a while.
Gas tank is likely beyond salvation. Note the visible edge of the moisture absorbing sack which is now hard as a brick:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN0972_zps26211548.jpg)
And a couple others:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1023_zpsd36cc9b3.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1022_zps4b0c345d.jpg)
But most importantly, I have engineered a way to keep 2 Jeeps AND wifey's car all comfortably in the garage. This feat is critical to my own winter survival.� The countless childhood hours of Nintendo Tetris have paid off....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131013_114254_zps8e71147a.jpg)
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Well it looks 100% better already. Just a little cleaning and tidying things up goes a long way....
A radiator shop might be able to cook that tank for you, if it's not full of holes....
You guy's are making me want another project and I'm not finished with the one I have!
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The tank is plastered with fiberglass all over the outside, which I'm guessing means it leaks. I just bought another one of FleBay over the weekend for pretty cheap. It too needs work but probably not as much as my current one. I'll wait until it arrives and then decide which one to go with.
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Your garage arrangement looks familiar...
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20black/20130223003-1_zps07476bcf.jpg)
The little black Willys is now out in back.� Whitey, or parts that make up Whitey, are now inside.� One of the wonderful things about the Willys is the small amount of room required to have one...or two...or three. ;)
Glad to see the transformation is on!
Tim
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Tim - Is that a Particulate Matter Containment System I see rolled up to the ceiling above the Kubota?
I have a similar system (random tarps and bungee cords vs your plastic sheeting and 2x4's) that I install around the M38 when grinding or painting. The Willys Laboratory....
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That's my make shift paint booth.� It's partially broken down right now.� I had to buy a cover for ODie.� Particulate matter is a concern.� This fear has forced me to do the majority of dirty work out on the driveway.
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/paintbooth1.jpg) (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/athawk11/media/paintbooth1.jpg.html)
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Congratulations on getting all three in the garage. I must admit, I had my doubts. This winter, my garage will have two vehicles, a Gold Wing, and a Kubota. Not a lot of room I can tell you...
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All new brake components are now installed and working - everything from the MC, wheel cylinders, pads, eccentrics, brake lines, and pedal shaft. Pretty much everything except the drums and 3 out of 4 backing plates. The new found ability to stop means I can now DRIVE IT!
I took the first few rips around the neighborhood Sunday and then some more tonight. It's registered and "legal" but I might have a tough time explaining the red gas can on the bumper. I have a used tank undergoing surgery right now that will hopefully be back to me and installed this weekend.
It runs and drives surprisingly well but there are a few things that need immediate attention:
[list bull-blackball]- Steering wheel has much less slop than anticipated but I have already survived a death wobble to something is amiss. From the looks of the tie rod ends it's not surprising.
[list bull-blackball]- Temp gauge is still not working so I'm probably running at 240 degrees and completely oblivious
[list bull-blackball]- I replaced three shocks but the remaining one was so rotted I broke the top mount and the shock has rusted and fused to the bottom mount. It is currently held in place with a piece of old wire
[list bull-blackball]- Air cleaner is still non existent. Good thing bug season is over or they'd be funneling right into the ill-tuned Solex. I have a line on one posted for sale here. Hopefully it shows up.
[list bull-blackball]- I found a small spring on the floor that I'm pretty certain puked out of the distributor. I'll see if I can find its proper place when I attempt to neaten up the timing.
So far I have still resisted the urge to pull the tub. I've been wire-wheeling chunks of rust away by the pound and replacing it with an equal amount of rattle can paint. I'm already a huge fan of the removable panel the M38's have for easy access to the tranny. Not sure why they never made 2A's and 3A's like that. I've already had it off a couple times and all that stuff you dread doing to a 3A for lack of access is now sitting right in plain view, begging you to rip it apart and rebuild it too.�
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131026_145428_zps6d5b5ee6.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131026_145447_zpsceaec337.jpg)
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Excellent!� I love the personalized plate!
I really like the way it looks.....continue to resist the urge to pull the tub......
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Ryan, Looking good... Now that you have had first hand experience with a "Tight Steer" do you think that alone will solve the wobble problem or do you need to replace the king pins?
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I will probably need to replace the kingpins and every other wear item between the steering wheel and the front tires. The TightSteer is good but not a cure-all.
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Nice work. I do know about the brake stuff as I have put on all new brake lines and waiting on Master cylinder. New brake cylinders on already. It goes but it must surely stop as well.
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I have seen a tight steer. How do you like them?
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Good job getting the old girl driveable. I really like the top.
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I have seen a tight steer.� How do you like them?
I put one on my 3A to try and remove a small amount of play on a completely rebuilt steering system - it barely made a difference. I took it off and installed it on a friend's super sloppy 2A. It reduced play from roughly 1/3 turn of the wheel to just about 1/4. A remarkable difference but no substitute for properly repairing the steering components.
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Thanks. Nice to know. Am rebuilding the steering pm mine and wondered of I needed to get one.
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Thanks.� Nice to know.� Am rebuilding the steering pm mine and wondered of I needed to get one.
In most situations I think I'd rather spend the 80 bucks on actual steering components. Other people rave about them so it's likely that I am out numbered with that opinion.
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Regarding the TightSteer...I will quietly agree with Ryan.
With my steering components being new and fresh, I feel very little difference with the TightSteer installed.
That said, as the components wear I anticipate the TightSteer will keep things more crisp, so I left it on.
Tim
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Tim -
Your assessment is better stated than mine. My 3A components are too new for TightSteer to make a difference and the 2A I installed one on was way too far gone.
TightSteer is probably well suited to buy a few thousand more miles between complete steering overhauls on rigs with limited amounts of wear. Thanks for translating the true intent of my drivel once again....
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You don�t drivel !!� Your posts are some of the most enjoyable and interesting to read.� I was simply reiterating your original experience. :)
Tim
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From a mechanical standpoint, the TightSteer eliminates the need to manual adjust the steering gear. It is not meant to remove play due to worn steering linkage components.
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While a lot of people tend to militarize their civilian jeeps, it seems I am headed in the other direction. So much of the original hardware is missing from this M38 - and while it's a shame not to replace it all, this thing is such a beater that I can't justify throwing the big bucks for original gear when it is possible the frame could break in half at any minute.
The Solex carb has been discarded as it - even with a new fuel regulator - would do nothing but dump tremendous amounts of fuel into the intake manifold. Sooty plugs, horrible burning fuel smell, off it came. I ordered a rebuilt Carter 636 from scoutpilot. It hasn't even arrived yet but in seeing it in the test video he sent me I decided it looks too pretty for the M38 and will go on my 3A instead.
Today, I transplanted the existing Carter from my 3A to the M38. I've done remarkably well not scavenging parts from the 3A, tempting as it is, but I have recently decided if I need a nice new part it should go to the 3A and the hand-me-downs will go to the M38. Now, with the purchase of one part it's like I upgrade 2(!) jeeps. That's like half-price parts, right???
I have also decided it's helpful having two jeeps with the same parts so I can swap them out to help troubleshoot specific problems before blindly buying new parts. I have determined the M38's distributor is in fact junk and I stole the one from my 3A. The 3A, in turn, will get a nice new one.
Fuel tank has been cleaned, repaired, and treated with some sort of magical liner. All new fuel lines installed.
Crusty air cleaner as purchased from Tom here on the 3A page has been installed and is working great. I didn't even bother to paint it as it looks better "as-is".
Rotted muffler was cut off and replaced. It is currently mounted with wire coat hangers but I will improve that arrangement, maybe.
New plugs, wires, dist cap, condenser, and it really runs good now. Temp gauge is working and reads right were it should. I changed the oil again with less than an hour of run time and it was as black as oil gets - pretty gross. I'm hoping the upgrade in carburetors and just flushing the oil a couple times will clean up the engine a little bit.
Next up will have to be the steering. This rig is scary to drive as any hint of a bump sends it into the throes of a death wobble.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131027_112830_zps1feb7e0e.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131102_113141_zpsb2a8c143.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131109_182227_zpsc55b5b20.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131027_121129_zpse2b439de.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131109_182247_zps92f5a8a9.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131109_182235_zps6b85dfdd.jpg)
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I think it looks great....huge improvements to two jeeps with minimal investment...that sounds like a perfect plan...
Is the bubble wrap there as protection against flailing tools?
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Is the bubble wrap there as protection against flailing tools?
Good call, lol. That new gas tank sure looks better than that crappy one it had originally.
I wonder if the new carb will make give the 3A any more power than what it had.
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Is the bubble wrap there as protection against flailing tools?
Good call, lol.� That new gas tank sure looks better than that crappy one it had originally.�
I wonder if the new carb will make give the 3A any more power than what it had.�
Uh, that's a better call than either of you know. I was working WAAAY past my safe frustration threshold the other day while battling to free up that %$^*!!$@# stuck distributor. Utterly pi$$ed, I thrashed a wrench against what I intended to be the already dented up grill. Of course, I missed, and blew out one of the headlights. Real smooth. The broken headlight did nothing to improve my mood. I went outside to rake leaves instead.
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Those things make a nice "pop" when they shatter, don't they?
One flew out of my hand in the driveway to it's complete destruction..took half an hour to clean it up...
Leaves are very therapeutic...
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Where is the other leg of your drivers seat?
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Where is the other leg of your drivers seat?
The right front M38 seat leg is on the side because of the removable floor. Just can't see it in that photo.
Go up about 6 posts and there is a good photo of the seat from the other side.
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Ryan,
Regarding the flying tools and frustrating moments...I did laugh a little, but not at your expense.� I'm just happy that� others also reach an anger level that is high enough to cause a tool to become a projectile.� ;)
Sounds like you have a good 'parts upgrade plan'.� I have used the same approach on a couple things.� I picked up a new rear view mirror assembly from Walcks.� It was to be for Whitey, but is too nice.� It will end up on ODie.
Any feature films of the new addition yet?
Tim
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Today I took the M38 out for its first real drive beyond the confines of the neighborhood and the first time without the red gas can strapped to the bumper. It is always a little nerve-wracking on these initial drives beyond easy walking distance to the house. I prefer to attempt such voyages only when the wife is home and available to come retreive me from the roadside should trouble arise. She had no idea she was on call but I made sure her phone ringer was on full volume and strategically placed right next to her still sleeping head before I left the house. My on-board tool kit consisted of a couple wrenches and a AAA card. Luckily I didn't use any of it.
Steering is still a wreck but the "new" carb and distributor are just what the doctor ordered. The speedometer is pretty whacky but a handy-dandy speedometer phone app shows that I logged 28.7 miles with a top speed of 44mph. It ran great the whole time. I received a few "thumbs up" and I was photographed at least twice that I'm aware of. Doesn't seem to matter if you're driving a museum quality piece or a total wreck like this one, people just love these old jeeps. I was likely on the receivng end of a few other hand gestures too as I chuffed lazily along in Sunday shopping mall traffic but I really didn't care. Good thing the rearview mirror is long gone and the side mirrors bounce too much to make out that level of detail behind me.
It's a damp 35 degrees here today but I was surprisingly comfortable in the cab, even without a heater. Enough engine heat radiates back towards the interior that with a jacket on I was able to drive with the window open.
This Jeep was last registered in 2005 and I'm pretty sure had been sitting in the spot where I found since that year. So today would be the first time in around 8 years, possibly longer, that it has really been driven for any considerable distance. It's amazing how resilient these little vehicles really are.
Nothing spectacular here but this is a video of part of the drive with a quick walk-around at the end:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MO6TTBGjFGo
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Sounds great!
I love the way the video distorts the windshield....it's like you are in another dimension..!
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Looks like it runs great.
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Sounds great!
I love the way the video distorts the windshield....it's like you are in another dimension..!
The youtube "Video Stabilization Feature" sometimes works miracles on shaky videos and other times makes them appear as though they are being viewed as reflected by a funhouse mirror. I have removed the stabilization and updated the link in the my previous post above.
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I watched it again..the distortion is gone.
I'm amazed at how good it sounds...
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The Willys Garage is in full swing this winter. The M38 has been the recipient of a near-complete steering upgrade. I pulled and inspected the front axles and all is good. King pin bearings and races have been replaced. Old tie rod ends, bell crank innards, and drag link components were unceremoniously gutted and new stuff installed. The only thing I haven't done is open up the steering box. I'm hoping the death wobble problems have been chased away by the rest of the new parts but since the roads are now heavily encrusted with salt I'll need to wait until spring for another good test drive. If I still have issues I'll go in after the steering box.
Today, I pulled the TC, tranny, and bellhousing. The transmission jumps out of second gear so I know it needs help and I have some good NOS parts on the shelf for it. I'll inspect the TC and replace the seals but hopefully that's all that will need. I have a new clutch ready to go in too - might as well since I'm now staring right at it. The transmission crossmember was so rusted I needed to cut it off the frame with my angle grinder - what a mess. I'm definitely questioning my decision to pick away at these repairs vs. a full frame-off rebuild. If the frame-off hadn't been shot down by the Budget Committee it would be a no-brainer. Since I'm heavy on time and light on money, this method will have to suffice for now. It is a little discouraging putting this much work into a vehicle with a highly questionable frame and completely crumbling body. A rotbox with a rebuilt transmission and new brakes is still a rotbox.
Here's some pics of today's adventures:
Motor supported by blocks, transmission precariously balanced on the wrong kind of jack. I was unable to remove the skidplate which didn't make bottom access any easier.
(http://
http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131221_132
919_zpscbb6e082.jpg)
Thank you again to whoever designed and implemented the M38 removable floor!!
(http://
http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131221_141
303_zpsbf8c7363.jpg)
Hello Mr. Clutch
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131221_172611_zpsc6db3aaf.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131221_170511_zpsdecc1fac.jpg)
The spoils of war-
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20131221_172539_zpsd8a56e3f.jpg)
I quickly wired brushed the heavy crud off. OD paint on everything which is a slightly encouraging indication that all these components may be the original ones....or they could be replacements from a Bubba overhaul years ago. Not sure if there is any real way to tell. At any rate, I've got enough mini-projects now to last for quite awhile.
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I've got enough mini-projects now to last for quite awhile
I'll say....
For what it's worth I was able to pry out the old steering box seal and replace it with new, without taking the box apart....
But that may be down the road a bit!!
And I've been putting off tearing into the CJ-5 which needs knuckles rebuilt and a T/C rebuild.....
You inspire me....
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The removable floor system in the M38 was a brilliant design upgrade.� I remember following Bretto while he was tracking down a leaky front tranny bearing.� He was popping the tranny in and out as if he were removing a tire. ;)
I am close to this same stage.� Like you, I am hopeful that a full tear down will not be necessary.
It's always fun to watch others battle a similar challenge.
Keep us all in the loop.
Tim�
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He was popping the tranny in and out as if he were removing a tire. ;)
No kidding, not something that I really like doing but at least I know it's a fairly quick job.
Ryan one thing I did was add support from the top as well. If you have the means to hang a strap from overhead and wrap it around the transmission/tcase and have it stabilize and aid the jack in raising and lowering. Great video by the way!
Brett
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Ryan one thing I did was add support from the top as well.� If you have the means to hang a strap from overhead and wrap it around the transmission/tcase and have it stabilize and aid the jack in raising and lowering.�
I remember one of your pics with you doing this. Good idea. I was thinking a step ladder on either side of the Jeep supporting a beam running right through the cab. From there I could run a strap from the beam down around the tranny. I ended up being able to do it without but it wasn't pretty. Having to cut the crossmember out really added that unwanted element of hassle.
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A little bit of progress to report today. I found a shop to resurface the flywheel "while you wait and hang-out and watch" which is always a bonus.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1268_zps6a64abb8.jpg)
New clutch installed, bolts torqued to the tender 12-14lbs.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1270_zpsb4cad0e6.jpg)
Transmission now looks like this. Gotta step back before you move forward....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1272_zpse623292a.jpg)
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Today's adventure - endlessly wire wheeling and cleaning greasy parts.
Transmission housing dated 3-27-52.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1293_zpsa89dd7cb.jpg)
Here's how the rest of the tranny looks now. Most of the big expensive parts can be re-used which is great. The pile in the upper right on the concrete will be replaced. I like organizing the nuts and bolts on empty boxes with diagrams. No matter how simple an arrangement I never seem to remember how they go if I don't do this...and even then I still sometimes screw it up...
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1313_zps8f453d9f.jpg)
Shift Tower almost ready for primer and paint.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1297_zps73f1e9af.jpg)
Nice to do something that doesn't involve grease for awhile:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1311_zpsdba9d4a0.jpg)
Round 1 of exterior TC clean-up. This'll be opened up and inspected later
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1316_zpsb3874b7f.jpg)
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Wow...you are rollin!
I like the bolt organizer....
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Looking good Ryan
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Today started with a little home cooking. Frozen Main Drive Gear quickly topped with boiling hot Input Shaft Bearing all glazed with a generous coating of "Assemblee Goo".
Jeep Parts, it's what's for dinner.....er, breakfast
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1320_zpsa3b21b22.jpg)
Cluster gear needle bearings in their new home. By the time you are done with this step you can count 22 needle bearings out of a random pile by eye, Rain Man style.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1321_zps6c2ff94a.jpg)
Countershaft going in, Rick Stiver's rebuild guide "Tool A" coming out
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1325_zps982a8581.jpg)
Cluster gear and main gear installed.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1327_zpsbfc01273.jpg)
That's all I can do for now. I'm at a standstill awaiting an NOS second gear to appear in the mailbox. I decided the original one was toast and not worth re-using. I'm hoping to see it in the next day or two and then get this transmission buttoned back up. A greasy transfer case anxiously awaits me.
-
That transmission was born a mere two months prior to me.� :-(�
I'm thinking you're putting a lot more into this drivetrain refurb than you did with the 3A. mainly because you now know a lot more about it?�
I like the reassembly diagrams, something I should always do but don't take the time.� You even make note of which bolts/nuts you could have mixed up.� :-)
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I'm thinking you're putting a lot more into this drivetrain refurb than you did with the 3A. mainly because you now know a lot more about it?�
So far it's pretty much the same as what I did for the 3A. I plan to get a little more daring with the transfer case here though.
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Someday, I hope to have the confidence to tear into an old T90. You are so nonchalant about it. "Just another day at the office!" ;)
Thanks for showing us. I hope you'll give up the good 'tips and tricks' as you move along.
Tim
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As previously mentioned the tranny rebuild is on hold awaiting a new 2nd gear to arrive. I was inspecting all the parts again yesterday and realized the reverse idler shaft is pretty well roasted. Not sure how I missed that the first time around but one of those now has to be ordered. It's moments like these I really wish Walck's had a franchise here in town.
So, in spite of really not being exited about having both the transmission and transfer case ripped apart simultaneously, what's a guy to do? Might as well work up a list of required TC parts so I can at least qualify for free shipping. Only one way to do that....
The obligatory disgusting e-brake pic:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1328_zps09a569f5.jpg)
Anyone else's projects always look like the disassembly was achieved with the sole use of C-4 or is it just me? What a mess.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1370_zps3990b292.jpg)
Cleaned up a little bit and at least organized into a manageable pile
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1372_zpsca231b45.jpg)
I can spend the weekend cleaning and painting so I'll be ready to go (I hope) by the time the new parts arrive.
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I'm still finding pieces from when mine blew up... :D
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Havent been on here for a while...just found out about this rebuild...I love the looks and smells of these old Jeeps...thanks Ryan for posting...I will be following along for sure...
MikeC
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Havent been on here for a while...just found out about this rebuild...I love the looks and smells of these old Jeeps...thanks Ryan for posting...I will be following along for sure...
MikeC
Lots of good stuff on this site Mike, glad to see you checking in. It does not get as much traffic as the 2A page but there's still a tremendous amount of valuable info to be found here and a fun, friendly group of guys Don't be a stranger!
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New reverse idler shaft and 2nd gear arrived so that means it's back to work on the T-90.
After the initial transmission disassembly it was tough for me to determine what parts were good and what was junk. It's not always obvious if you don't have new stuff to compare too, and even then it can be a challenge. Here's the new second gear on the left and the old one on the right. The wear is most apparent on the two notches on the front face of the gear and the teeth of the blocking rings.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1432_zpsb998820f.jpg)
The old one was really chewed up:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1429_zpsce27a51d.jpg)
New one has nice crisp front edges:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1428_zpsba6b43e1.jpg)
NOS synchros, clutch sleeve and clutch hub that I have been saving (thanks for the ebay tip when these were for sale last year Carlsjeep)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1433_zpsfcf2e167.jpg)
And it all looks better inside the case.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1442_zps3b98f2a2.jpg)
Shift tower on the operating table. The M38 towers are a little different than the 3A towers. Note the threads for the screw-on cap.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1454_zps9b64e5a3.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1453_zps25cde398.jpg)
And somehow, it all ended up back together. It'll be even more shocking if it actually retains gear oil and works properly. I have left the shift tower unsealed and only finger tight for now. I'll button it up for good after it's back in the Jeep. (Bonus points to Tim if he can identify the brand of door in the background)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1455_zps6c97889d.jpg)
Next up, transfer case! Case is painted, innards are mostly clean, and bag of new bearings, seals, and small parts is waiting patiently on a garage shelf. I hope to start that reassembly adventure tomorrow.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1383_zpsa3dbfd9d.jpg)
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I am really enjoying watching this build.
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I am really enjoying watching this build.
Bill - Why do I have a feeling your main source of enjoyment with this build is the likely prospect of witnessing it crack in half and explode whilst navigating some god-forsaken NH goat path?
;D ;D ;D
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You're not going to take that shiny gray 3A? ;D
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You're not going to take that shiny gray 3A?� ;D
Only if I can't get this rattletrap M38 back together in time. You were asking about project motivation in another thread. I guess mine is to NOT to have to thrash the 3A in NH again this year. That thought alone keeps me working double duty on the M38!
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You're not going to take that shiny gray 3A?� ;D
Only if I can't get this rattletrap M38 back together in time. You were asking about project motivation in another thread. I guess mine is to NOT to have to thrash the 3A in NH again this year. That thought alone keeps me working double duty on the M38!
Be careful or you may end up with a shiny M-38!!
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I managed to log some serious and reasonably uninterrupted garage hours this weekend which is always a welcome occurrence.
Transfer case assembly time!
Walck's bearings and small parts kit.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1464_zpsfacca1bd.jpg)
New Output Shaft Gear next to the old one.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1475_zpsc0b4462a.jpg)
Old one is pretty chewed up...at least I think it is. Remember, I still have no idea what I'm doing with this stuff most times.....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1476_zpsc818e04a.jpg)
I should have done a better job of this before cleaning and painting but I had to touch up a few cruddy threads.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1469_zps69e5ee8b.jpg)
New wire (Rebar tying wire) for securing the nice clean shift fork nuts.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1472_zps8169a1cc.jpg)
Output shaft sliding into place
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1491_zpsa608c714.jpg)
This was probably the most-not-fun part of the rebuild. I had to remove the rear bearing cap 6 or 7 times changing shims out to get the right end-play. (http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1500_zps1e7ca760.jpg)
Set the end play close and then a quick coat of copper gasket spray on all the shims
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1502_zps3112f29a.jpg)
Bearing cap installed for the final time. End play right where it should be.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1512_zpsc6025178.jpg)
Really coming together now. Rick's guide suggests marking front and rear of the case, as silly as it may seem. When your mind works as simply as mine does a single letter on a blue piece of tape can be a huge help.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1513_zps927dbfe8.jpg)
Handbrake innards spiffed up and re-installed. I just cleaned up the old Bendix brand shoes and reused them. I wouldn't reuse a wheel shoe but I think I can get away with it here.�
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1521_zps6b9b9bc6.jpg)
The ol' Rustoleum paint really took a beating from the assembly and occasional spurts of brake cleaner. Once I get the tranny mated up to it I'll probably blast everything with another couple coats.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1523_zpsfc5c37af.jpg)
I've found that taking pics after every single step comes in very handy if you are not extremely familiar with what you are doing. There was more than one occasion when I questioned a much earlier step and by going back through all of my pictures I could determine exactly what it was that I had done. Especially helpful if you end up with a leftover washer or something. I tore the tranny apart once during that overhaul just to verify that the right parts were there - they were. If I had pics, I wouldn't have had to do that.
Glad to have this step out of the way, although I won't be completely relieved until it's back in the Jeep and successfully tested.
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I am really enjoying watching this build.
Bill - Why do I have a feeling your main source of enjoyment with this build is the likely prospect of witnessing it crack in half and explode whilst navigating some god-forsaken NH goat path?
;D ;D ;D
We all have to have our hobbies ;D
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The marking of the front and rear is a good idea and I Remember doing it. The transfer case is worked on upside down so that is where you can get fouled up.
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Transmission, transfer case, bellhousing have been reunited and set atop a new crossmember. Rubber mounts are also new as are the throwout bearing, bearing carrier, and spring.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1555_zps9489eae0.jpg)
I'm not sure what this completed assembly weighs but it is all I can do to pick it up and carry it across the garage. I don't have a transmission jack nor am I too excited to buy one. Since I have the luxury of an M38 removable floor I could have rigged up some type of overhead crane but I didn't feel like I had the right equipment for that today either.
What I do have is a fair amount of scrap wood. I decided to build a crib system. Prying up one side, slipping in a piece of wood, and then repeating on the other side, I slowly but steadily raised the whole unit to the exact level of the motor and slid it forward into place. The entire ordeal probably took a couple hours so it certainly wasn't real efficient but not too terrible either. I consider the fact that it worked at all a success. With that said, if I have to do this again anytime soon I'll pick-up a heavy duty come-a-long and try the overhead method.
I used a prybar under the skid plate to get the first couple blocks inserted.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1560_zps63707456.jpg)
After that I was able to use a 2x4 as a lever.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1563_zps9e85f70c.jpg)
Eventually it was high enough that I could use the floor jack under the ends of the crossmember to raise it up for the last couple crib blocks.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1568_zps8f13433d.jpg)
Once the crossmember ends were high enough to bolt loosely to the frame I removed all the cribbing. I had been supporting the engine with cinder blocks and was able to remove those too. Tightening a little here and a little there along with some persuasive leveling with the use of the floor jack under the engine skid plate I finally pulled it all tight.
Here's everything back in place. I'm leaving the inspection cover off for now until the clutch pedal and all the linkage is back in place.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/DSCN1571_zps0549e4e9.jpg)
Motor mounts are shot so time permitting tomorrow that's the next mini-project. It's easy to work up there since the radiator is still out for repair. Once that's done it'll be onto the driveshafts and u-joints.
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Great progress. You can use one of those inexpensive motorcycle stands for a jack stand.
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Looking good. Cant wait to see it running!
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Sometimes you just need to think like an early Egyptian pyramid builder and move those heavy things an inch at a time...
Looks great....new tires?
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Nicely done! In many ways, I've found that us 'back yard mechanics' are forced to be more creative than a real mechanic :).
Tim
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I'd like to say the cribbing idea was born out of my own stroke of brilliance but I remember someone else mentioning it on one of the other forums. I only "furthered the field research".
And 1955CJ-5 the tires were on this wreck when I got it but I doubt they had 50 miles on them. There was virtually no wear and all were still covered with those nubby new tire things, most of which have since worn off with the couple hundred miles I've driven.
I started the day with a quick motor mount swap. I said I wasn't going to splurge on too many upgrades for this project so I may have pulled the trigger early in replacing these guys. Probably could have gone another half-century or so...or maybe not:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1576_zps90e6b367.jpg)
With the motor mounted and after some more fiddling with the reinstalled trans/TC, Project Driveshaft was the main mission of the day. Like everything else on this rotbox, they were pretty disgusting:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1591_zpsd22e7d35.jpg)
But I got them cleaned up:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1592_zpsff0fe787.jpg)
While installing new Spicer u-joints I managed to screw one up and actually had to cut the thing in half with the grinder.� I must have flipped one of the needle bearings down causing the end cap to wedge badly in the driveshaft ear while trying to hammer it home. Numerous thundering blows with my trusty BFH and then a few more with a B'rFH proved futile.
Nothing like taking a shiny new component off the shelf and within 30 minutes of it being out of the box you're unceremoniously butchering though it in a shower of grinder sparks.
So for now the rear driveshaft is installed on the Jeep but the front one will have to wait until another u-joint can be had.
I got a good look at the starter too. I would have gotten a better look at it on the ground at the Dairy Queen parking lot this summer had I not dealt with it here. It was held in place only by a single decrepit bolt through the bell housing. All traces of the rear bracket were gone. Probably rotted off sometime during the Carter administration. I have some questions about this starter but that's a topic for a different thread.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1593_zpsc7e926ac.jpg)
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I have never seen those boots for the clutch cable....is that a standard Jeep part??...my 1947 CJ2A has a rather large hole but no boot...I like that it appears to hold the cable taught thus holding the ball on the clutch lever...
Just wondering out loud thats all...
MikeC
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I have never seen those boots for the clutch cable....is that a standard Jeep part??...my 1947 CJ2A has a rather large hole but no boot...I like that it appears to hold the cable taught thus holding the ball on the clutch lever...
Just wondering out loud thats all...
MikeC
That clutch cable boot is a remnant of the original M38 fording hardware. Since this thing was built to drive while submerged, it has some stuff not seen on other flatfenders, including that boot. I think the cable itself is the same as 2A's and 3A's but the hole for it in the bell housing is smaller (IIRC).
You may have also noticed the TC vent has some plumbing attached to it. I believe it was originally plumbed to a "T" fitting on the bellhousing and from there either to the fuel pump or air cleaner allowing it to vent above the high-water mark if need be.
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Your Jeep has the later of the two different M-38 fording ventilation systems. The clutch cable is slightly different than a CJ cable in that it should have extra ferrules to help seal the boot. The transfer case vent tube should go to the tee fitting on the waterproof bellhousing. From there a line continued forward to a check valve and then to a fitting on the center of the fuel pump. When fording the engine PCV system was defeated so crankcase pressure would build to a few PSI. This pressure was also supplied to the bellhousing, transfer case and transmission through the plumbing to help keep water out.
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Your Jeep has the later of the two different M-38 fording ventilation systems. The clutch cable is slightly different than a CJ cable in that it should have extra ferrules to help seal the boot. The transfer case vent tube should go to the tee fitting on the waterproof bellhousing. From there a line continued forward to a check valve and then to a fitting on the center of the fuel pump. When fording the engine PCV system was defeated so crankcase pressure would build to a few PSI. This pressure was also supplied to the bellhousing, transfer case and transmission through the plumbing to help keep water out.
Thanks for the explanation Bob. Given the condition (or complete lack) of the fording components on this junker I'll probably try and refrain from any aquatic adventures.
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the tires were on this wreck
on this junker
I see it's really growing on you..... ;D
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the tires were on this wreck
on this junker
I see it's really growing on you..... ;D
I do like it - very much. I would like it a lot more, however, if it wasn't a complete piece of crap.
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;D :D :)
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You know, my neighbors used to ask how the jeep was coming along...
And I'd tell them that I accidentally left it in the driveway on Thursday..
Thursday is trash day.......
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The recently mutilated radiator is back from the shop and back in the Willys - held snugly in place with its new support rod this time.
(http://
http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20140125_185245_zps6deaf76a.jpg)
I also removed the hardware store plumbing elbow and replaced it with a functioning PCV valve that I scavenged from a buddy's spare parts bin. The heat riser is seized in place but I have no desire to go chasing after that until some other more compelling reason drives me to pull the manifolds off. I get nervous just looking at those rusted manifold studs.
Initial test drive with the rebuilt trans and TC passed with flying colors. Shifts are crisp and tight which is a huge relief - with a little luck they stay that way. Hopefully I'll get some more laps around the yard in tomorrow. It's dark and snowing hard tonight.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20140125_182634_zpsa476879e.jpg)
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Nice!
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Very nice.
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I installed a new set of Crown leaf springs on the M38 this week. I had a heck of a time getting them installed (does that surprise anyone by now?) as the M38 leaf spring pivot bolts are different than the 3A.
A 3A has the 9/16" greaseable bolt. M38's have simply a 7/16" bolt - no grease fitting. I've found that leaf springs are commonly advertised to fit both the 3A and M38 - but since they are different that can't be possible, assuming all M38's are the same as my '52.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/bolt_zpsf575d0be.jpg)
The end wraps on the Crown springs are different sizes where on the original springs they are the same size. The smaller end wrap on the Crown spring makes it impossible to use a bushing combination that will work.
As much as I hate drilling new holes, I ended up drilling the 9/16" holes in the spring hangers to accomodate these new springs and the greaseable pivot bolts.
A test ride tonight shows remarkable improvement over the bumps but the "Jeep lean" is still as bad as it ever was although it leans from a slightly taller stance now.
Since this thing is such a heap I didn't prep or paint anything. I'll blast with Rustoleum green later on and call it good
Heap or not, this M38 now runs better, rides better, shifts better, sounds better, and leaves much smaller puddles on the floor than my shiny 3A. Go figure.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20140509_175404_zps1d701dc3.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20140513_194725_zps0c0fbaa6.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38/20140513_194657_zps6e0691d4.jpg)
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Heap or not, this M38 now runs better, rides better, shifts better, sounds better, and leaves much smaller puddles on the floor than my shiny 3A. Go figure.
Maybe the green machine is trying to tell you something.� Maybe it's saying, " I'm a mechanically sound Wonder Willys...and I deserve to look as good as old Gray sitting there in the President's parking spot!"
"Restore me.� RESTORE ME!!!� You won't be sorry." ;)
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"Restore me.� RESTORE ME!!!� You won't be sorry."
Could those be the words of a financial sponsor? I'm only a suitcase of cash away from a full rebuild. I'll even paint a hawk on the hood if you'd like to finance the project ;D
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Whoa there Ryan! Those were the words of your Wonders Willys. I'm just the interpreter. ;)
Tim
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[movedhere] Your Stock�3A Project [move by] Quebec Jeep.
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I was going to start a new thread but I figured it would be better suited to continue this one. So, here's one for you:
A '52 M38 "project" showed up on Craiglist. I would have been okay with it if it wasn't 20 minutes from my house and, from what I could see in the pictures, had a very good looking tub. My '52 M38 is mechancially solid (after repairing/replacing pretty much everything) but the tub is completely shot and the frame only looks decent because the tub sitting on it looks that bad.
So the calls were made and the viewing scheduled. The seller was curious (presumably to gauge my seriousness) if I was bringing a trailer with me. I told him that I did not own a trailer but would be able to borrow one if we could strike a deal. I don't like cashing in a trailer-borrowing chip for what could amount to not needing it. Most likely thinking I was out to do nothing but waste his time, we firmed up a time and said good bye.
This morning I met the seller and assessed the inventory of his project. It was indeed an M38 - just spread out across two levels of a garage and some of the front lawn. Boxes were pawed through, ladders were climbed, and a tub was carefully inspected under the glow of a dim flashlight.
After trading a few jeep stories and some good-natured *, we failed to come to terms. I was stuck at my price and he at his. I was only really interested in the body parts and frame and had to stick to my price with that in mind. He was intent on selling the whole package (motor, trans, TC, etc) and held at his price accordingly. We shook hands and I drove away.
Less than a mile up the road I saw a sign for a yard sale and, as is nearly an instinctive response, I pulled in. Nothing cures the blues of a failed Jeep purchase like rummaging through a good yard sale. Fast forward 20 minutes and I was pulling out of the yard sale towing a very nice TANDEM AXLE CAR TRAILER (!!). I've been kicking tires on trailers since I dragged home my 3A three years ago on a rented U-Haul trailer. I've seen every one that's come and gone on Craigslist and stopped to inspect a dozen or so along the road over the years. I could just never pull the trigger on a purchase. I low-balled this one at the yard sale and they were glad to take the cash. Not a wasted trip after all!
I had barely made it two miles from the yard sale when my phone rang - you guessed it - the M38 guy, and we had a deal.
I swung around and headed back - now with a trailer in tow that I had owned for roughly 5 minutes. We loaded the rolling frame, tub, fenders, windshield, and a few other odds and ends and off I went. My wallet was much lighter and the rear end of my truck much heavier.
So I present to you 1952 M38 SN#56849. My current M38 is SN# 62101. That's two '52's with a serial number difference of "5252".
The frame is light years better than my current frame. It was POR-15'd at some point so it's held up well outside.
The tub was blasted years ago and stored inside. Surface rust has started to settle back in but should cleaned up nicely. The floor panels and hat channels have been replaced but it looks like a quality job. A small section near the tool indents has also been replaced but that looks pretty good too.� There are a couple tender spots on the wheel wells and around the tool box that will need some attention but I think I can handle that.
The goal is to migrate all of the fresh running gear from my other M38 onto this frame and use this tub. There is a less-than-honorable feeling when making plans to sacrifice two workable M38's to make one but I just don't have the time, money, or garage space needed to bring both of them back.�
I'm also not going for high-end restoration. I still want something I can bring to the NH trail run and not stress out if it gets dirty but I do like the idea of being able to round corners without the genuine concern of the tub falling off.
I hope I haven't lost too many of you with my long-winded rambling. Here's some pics, which is all we really want to see anyways:
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(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134608_zpsc1211e58.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134621_zps7883cbb7.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134550_zps03097d43.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134509_zpsf288a530.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134503_zps49f5cced.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134451_zps1148fba0.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134445_zps3772e924.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134429_zps2fa0ac64.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134424_zpse2a789be.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134416_zpsbdcc5c0a.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134402_zps66cfa107.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_134347_zpse088e4bd.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_143041_zps1dd305a9.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_140931_zpsb37f666f.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_175755_zps049448d5.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_175804_zpsf9ec2364.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141026_175819_zps57df9066.jpg)
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Nice tub. Nice trailer. Good score!!!
:)
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Wow! What a day :)
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A truck, a trailer, a pocket full of cash.....
Enter, one jeep for sale....
This could not have turned out any other way.....
Welcome.....ToTheTwilightZone....
Ryan you have the darnedest luck!
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Ryan you have the darnedest luck!
You can say that again.� Willys Karma is a wonderful trait. :D
Nice Score.� Very Nice.� I swear I've seen that Willys before...Maybe on EWillys? The tires are hard to miss.
Tim
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I was going to start a new thread but I figured it would be better suited to continue this one.
Makes complete sense to continue this thread as you're going to merely "improve" the existing Willys with parts from the "new" one.
But
Then again, it looks like you'll actually be improving the "new" one with parts from the "old" one.
Either way, we're happy for you and astounded at your good fortune.
How can you top this story? A new trailer and a new Willys within a few miles and a few minutes from each other.
Wow.
I hope I haven't lost too many of you with my long-winded rambling.
No way.
You KNOW we all love stories like this.
Congratulations.
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I swear I've seen that Willys before...Maybe on EWillys?� The tires are hard to miss.
I'm not sure if this made it to eWillys or not. Astoundingly, I don't get on that site much which is probably a good thing. The PO has owned it for "several" years and the guy he bought it from had planned to turn it into a mud buggy. Good thing he ran out of money after buying those tires that there was nothing left over for cutting tools. The frame and tub are unmolested.
Makes complete sense to continue this thread as you're going to merely "improve" the existing Willys with parts from the "new" one.
But
Then again, it looks like you'll actually be improving the "new" one with parts from the "old" one.
Which leads me to a dilemma - If the frame and body are from one Jeep and everything else is from another, which set of data plates should be displayed? As a tribute to each I'd like to find a way to install them both.
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[size=12]Ryan,
Installing both sets of tags may present an issue of "Dual Personality" that the local constabulary may have questions about. Know what I mean? IMHO, use the tags for the frame only. No sense confusing the uninitiated.[/size][/b]
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Installing both sets of tags may present an issue of "Dual Personality" that the local constabulary may have questions about. Know what I mean? IMHO, use the tags for the frame only. No sense confusing the uninitiated.
Good point. In that case, I think I will actually keep the tags for the M38 which is now running. Reason being is it is already registered. I'll be able to swap all the gadgets onto the new frame and drop the new tub on without disrupting anything at the DMV. Maine is, mercifully, a "no title" state which makes these projects immensely easier but no sense creating any additional work. I'll simply renew the current registration when it comes time just as if nothing had happened. Based on previous experience in registering vehicles brought back from the dead, the DMV is surprisingly casual about it here. My '42 MB-T Trailer is officially registered as a "1990 Home made" trailer after the DMV agent got frustrated trying to locate the actual year, make, and model. The 3A and the M38 were similar stories. Neither showed up in the computer so we had to improvise. I highly doubt anyone will question a different (but identical) frame.
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This will be fun to watch.
Question. Did you also get the engine etc. with your set price?
Tim
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Question.� Did you also get the engine etc. with your set price?
I was hoping nobody would ask that. I did not get the engine or other drivetrain parts...and have slept poorly the past two nights because of it. Remember that "less-than-honorable" feeling I mentioned? Well that's what happens when you take half a Jeep and leave the rest.
It's all there and available but I just can't bring myself to drag it all home. I got the parts I needed for a price I could live with and left him everything else.
If it was truly complete I would have been more excited to take the whole thing....but it isn't. The condition of the motor is unknown - same with the trans and TC. Only one of the rims is correct and none have tires, the gauges and radiator are missing, the seats are shot as is all of the wiring. The brake and fuel systems are presumably toast and one wheel is locked up altogether. As much as there is to be had I still see a huge money pit in rounding out what needs to be done.
The engine I have in the "old" M38 runs great (knocking on wood right now...) and I rebuilt/replaced the trans, TC, fuel lines, wheel bearings, radiator, brake lines, cylinders, shoes, etc etc with all new components less than a year ago - Several thousand dollars worth of repairs.
So to spend the extra cash and take up space that I don't have is something I chose not to do. I have two complete T90/D18s in the garage that I trip over every day right now as it is. I have yet to be able to even give them to a good home.
Combining what I got here with the M38 I already own will still undoubtedly cost about three times what I am anticipating but it'll be a lot more palatable than another complete overhaul. Plus, it would still leave me in search of a decent tub and frame for the original M38 anyways.
So yeah, all that stuff is there and perhaps at some point we'll come to terms that I simply can't resist. Or, I'll just get sick of not being able to sleep and go after it all. I do have a large trailer at my full-time disposal now afterall....
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OK....so I got sick of not sleeping. I dragged the rest of it home today:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141108_122209_zps74549271.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141108_122219_zpsba7840c0.jpg)
I'm probably still only forging ahead with the "make one from two" plan but at least my spare parts bin will be well stocked.
The motor turns by hand and there are remnants of liquid oil on the dipstick. I did fish an acorn out of the water pump already though. No idea of condition beyond that. I've never own a Carter YS so if nothing else I'm happy to have one of those. I'm still pretty clueless on 24V stuff or anything else that differs from a 3A. I have a lot to learn here...but first I think I will go take a nap....
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[size=12]The siren call...cannot be ignored.[/size][/b]
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Rest up, you will need it..!
I'm sure you did the right thing... ;)
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I knew this would happen. ;D. Good choice!!
Tim
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Decided to dive into the "new" frame clean up effort last night. First, the running M38 pushing its soon-to-be new frame into the garage. Admittedly, it is now bittersweet driving the "old" M38 knowing it will soon be reduced to a pile of random parts on the garage floor. Yes, it will rise from the ashes, but still....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141114_175732_zpse3d6dfee.jpg)
It's amazing how much quicker it gets each time I dismantle a jeep (or some part of one). I'm hoping I can say the same when it comes time for re-assembly.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141114_203553_zps30d51a11.jpg)
Bare frame back out in the driveway. I can carry it myself now. Spent about 6 hours and just as many wire wheels getting it cleaned up. Lots of interesting colors to be seen as the layers are ground away.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141115_085001_zps682c83df.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141115_103522_zpsccba1f5d.jpg)
I'm torn here about throwing down the money for sandblasting and really doing this right or trying to keep to a smaller budget but with less impressive results. Since I don't want to spend the cash and I want to be driving this thing by spring, you will see the art of cutting corners as this thread continues.
I re-read Garage Gnome's "Building a Forest Service Jeep" this morning. I've seen that rig in person and really like it. It's well done but still has a "down and dirty" feel to it. That is the route I shall take.
Frame washed and degreased and back in the garage.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141115_150943_zps0dad33a6.jpg)
I finally bit the bullet and lugged home a Lincoln 140 mig welder. I'm going to try and fire it up tonight for a few small repairs to the rear bumper. An idiot with a welder. Stand back....
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That frame looks to be in very nice condition. Try not to blow a hole through it with the welder. :-)
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Looking good...and bare.
The 140 Lincoln is a nice unit. I have used its little brother...a 125 Lincoln for all my Willys repairs. You'll be a pro in no time.
Tim
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You'll be welding up yard art before you know it..!
Remember that a length of copper pipe flattened on one end works great for backing holes and wide gaps when you weld....it will help keep the burn-through to a minimum....
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Remember that a length of copper pipe flattened on one end works great for backing holes and wide gaps when you weld....it will help keep the burn-through to a minimum....
That's good to know. I used my grinder to widen a small crack in the rear bumper and then spent the next 15 minutes chasing burn holes around trying to fill it. I finally managed to get it but perhaps that copper trick would have minimized some clowning around.
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Remember that a length of copper pipe flattened on one end works great for backing holes and wide gaps when you weld....it will help keep the burn-through to a minimum....
That's good to know. I used my grinder to widen a small crack in the rear bumper and then spent the next 15 minutes chasing burn holes around trying to fill it. I finally managed to get it but perhaps that copper trick would have minimized some clowning around.
The thing about welding on an old jeep is that you are never faced with the same circumstance twice.......one time it's thin rusty metal, then its nice new metal then it's who knows what......
If you were making the same half dozen welds over and over all day you would get good at it pretty fast..!
My friend used to be a welder for Bestop...his job was to weld a bracket together....he said after a while he would just set it up and close his eyes and weld it...no need for a hood!
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The copper is really successful method and get a couple of different sizes and lengths. Flatten out and bend it to fit.
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Frame cleaned and minor repairs made. I straightened a few of the significant dents in the bumpers and welded a couple cracks. The small dents and bent safety chain eyelets were left alone....they add character.
POR-15 time!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141116_125812_zps06267c85.jpg)
I used Chassis Saver on my 3A and people either seem to love or hate POR so I wanted to try it myself. I did not prep the frame with the recommended POR cleaner so if it falls off next week I still can't necessarily blame it on the product. I brushed it on this time instead of spraying it like I did on the 3A. Brushing sure is a lot cleaner but it's tougher (if not impossible) to get all the little cracks and crevices.
After a quick shot of el-cheapo primer (let the howling begin!) over the tacky POR, I let it sit for a few days. It took me nearly that long to hang all this freakin' plastic.
The paintery:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141118_174728_zps6b425564.jpg)
And the painter:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141118_175935_zps94e60126.jpg)
And the paint:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141118_190831_zpsa90f1aae.jpg)
This color was derived from a paint shop scan of an NOS M-38 grille. It looks way off but I think I like it anyways. I'll be able to compare it better once the frame dries.
Meanwhile, the desecration of the other M38 continues. This is the first time I've seen her topless. She was a little shy at first but quickly overcame her inhibitions.� ;D
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141116_133457_zpsc951efa2.jpg)
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You look a little crazed in the paint mask photo....
Are you sure that Stephen King doesn't live next door?
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Nice work
Another "down and dirty" build . . I will be keeping a eye on the thread for ideas. :)
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After a couple very frustrating days destroying sheet metal with my new welder I needed to tinker with some other part of the project.
Here's the engine, trans, and TC as plucked as a single unit. With an M38 you were originally able to pull the radiator as part of this ensemble but mine is missing the clips that secure the radiator to the motor so it came out separately. Note the benefit of the removable shift lever that allows this extraction without having to remove the entire shift tower.
I was a little apprehensive hanging the whole shooting match by a single 60yr old lift hook but it didn't seem to mind a bit.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141123_123634_zpsec72b16b.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141123_144344_zpsdb2b7207.jpg)
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The disassembly of M38 #1 is officially complete. The bare frame is now actually sitting on top of the old tub outside in the snow. Here's a parting shot of the tub headed out the door.�
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141124_190758_zps34bb67c2.jpg)
When I envisioned this project the initial plan was to simply drop the drive shafts, unbolt the springs from the old frame, and roll the wheels, axles, and springs as a unit over to the new frame and bolt everything back up. Simple stuff....I estimated the time required to roughly that of consuming a cup of coffee.
I didn't take long before the curse of "well, you are already THIS far...." took hold.
Might as well go through all the axles and harvest the best parts from each one
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141127_173639_zps0bf5555b.jpg)
Both axles from M38 #2 contained more water than gear oil. Yuck. The rear axle from M38 #1 has proven itself over the summer as a good axle but upon close inspection I noticed a couple things. One of the ring gear bolts was completely gone (and nowhere to be found inside the housing) and the lock-strap was twisted and hanging freely. Many of the other carrier bolts were loose enough I could turn them by hand. Not good. I tightened them all and secured them with the lock-strap tabs.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141127_173816_zpsff022a60.jpg)
Next, I pulled the axles and found the tubes full of dirt. Gritty chunky dirt. Only one way to really clean those tubes - gotta remove the differential.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141127_200641_zps0afbfbba.jpg)
With the diff out I found that the bearings looked good but the races had a couple bad spots. At the very least I'll replace the races although I know I should get new bearings while I'm at it. The pinion seal was junk too so I have a good shopping list prepared for Black Friday...
I found these critters tonight while consolidating axles. They are little spring loaded check valves for the bearing grease to escape from but by design they do not let water in. M38 #1 had them but they were so rusted they were unidentifiable. M38 #2 had a nice working set that were migrated over.
3A's just have a small open hole in that spot where grease can get out but anything else can seep in. Neat little gadgets.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141127_173626_zps285d0c91.jpg)
I'm pushing the spring loaded plunger up here with pliers
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141127_173458_zps4f484687.jpg)
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Those little vents are interesting. It's notable to me how many differences there are between the 3A and M38. It's a relatively small example of how flexible the military can be in their spec'ing process when cost is no object. Back then they must have had some clever engineers on board to come up with that vent idea, along with the removeable tranny cover, removeable shift lever, etc. Or perhaps Willys made the suggestions...who knows. Stuff to ponder.
Are you planning on migrating the hardtop to the new tub, or will this one also be topless?
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Are you planning on migrating the hardtop to the new tub, or will this one also be topless
The plan is to leave it topless....but nothing else ever seems to go as planned so anything is possible.
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Those little vents are interesting.� It's notable to me how many differences there are between the 3A and M38.� It's a relatively small example of how flexible the military can be in their spec'ing process when cost is no object.� Back then they must have had some clever engineers on board to come up with that vent idea, along with the removeable tranny cover, removeable shift lever, etc.� Or perhaps Willys made the suggestions...who knows.� Stuff to ponder.
When the M-38 was being designed the military had a long list of desired features after studying the shortcomings of the WWII jeeps. There was a constant back and forth between the Army and Willys trying to get all the features at a reasonable price. Some features did not make it into production because the cost was too great and many other features were eliminated during production because of the cost.
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Well Ryan, no one can accuse you of standing around and wondering what to do next....
I like your "can do" attitude!
Randy
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Ryan, sorry I'm late to follow this thread and was wondering what's with the vertical windshield frame? I'm guessing it doesn't fold and it looks to be about 90 degrees. Been looking for an explanation but didn't see it - hope I'm not dredging up a topic that has been brought up a bunch already.
Thanks.
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what's with the vertical windshield frame?
The vertical windshield frame is part of the Arctic Top, or "CAB CLOSURE - HARD TOP". If you flip back to the first post in this thread you'll see pics of the top installed. Even with the top removed, the windshield does not fold down.
Not sure why they couldn't agree on a top that utilized the original windshield. They obviously weren't thinking ahead to the one-man hobbyist who would like to be able to take the top on and off by himself without spending an entire afternoon doing so.
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I spent the entire day yesterday and much of this morning grinding and cleaning parts. Disgustingly dirty work. Differentials are buttoned back up and now it's paint day. I just replaced the king pin bearings and knuckle seals last year so I opted not to take them off again. A little bit lazy on my part but it really didn't seem worth the effort. Most of the brake backing plates on M38 #2 were better than the ones on M38 #1 so I am swapping them out.
Every other Jeep project I've done has pretty much consisted of rattle can paint jobs which are easy as you can do as small of a job as you want. Now that I'm using "real" paint I'm trying to prep as much as I can all at once. The air sprayer sure is nice to use but it's a pain to clean up and I don't want to do it any more than I have to.
The wife was a little annoyed when she found these parts hanging in the living room coat closet right after I washed them this morning. She was even more annoyed when she realized the "parts hangers" are former clothes hangers that I robbed from her closet.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141130_140053_zpscec420ab.jpg)
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Impressive work, and great progress. You are a man on a mission. You're also making me feel like a slacker. :-[
Tim
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You are a man on a mission.
Sort of. I really need to get the axles back under the frame so I have something that vaguely resembles a "vehicle" to look at instead of an overwhelming pile of dirty parts. I see how people can easily lose steam and abandon a project when at this critical point.
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You'd better have a set of hi falutin' wooden hangers under the tree for SWMBO or it's in the doghouse for you and the jeep.
Seeing that pic of everything hanging makes me think it would be cool to have a Christmas tree decorated in nothing but jeep parts fresh from the paint room.
I love seeing the progress, with I could do the same but I'll have to wait a bit more before I can really jump into a restoration of my own jeep. Fro now I'm helping a friend rebuild 2 mid 50's Ford stepsides....so I'll be in practice by the time I am done!
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Seeing that pic of everything hanging makes me think it would be cool to have a Christmas tree decorated in nothing but jeep parts fresh from the paint room
Ryan has us all thinking out of the box, I have been obsessed lately with the idea of installing a dish washer in the garage. Come on, how many of you are encouraging the wife to go Christmas shopping so you can get the parts done.
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Ryan has us all thinking out of the box, I have been obsessed lately with the idea of installing a dish washer in the garage. Come on, how many of you are encouraging the wife to go Christmas shopping so you can get the parts done.
"You have to work a double again tonight? Damn, honey, I never get to see you anymore..." ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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installing a dish washer in the garage.
Careful. Before you know it there will be a hotplate and a cot out there.....
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I have a vehicle again! Or at least something that I no longer have to drag around the garage but can actually roll.
I had to enlarge the front spring hanger bracket holes to accommodate the newer repop spring pivot bolts but after I went through hell and back on this last time I knew what I had to do. Quick and painless this time around.
I scratched the new paint in several places wrestling the axles into place as I knew would be inevitable. I'm also alarmed at the 4 or 5 spots I can still see primer through the paint (in addition to the spring u-bolts which I pretty much gave up on after I realized touch-ups were going to be in order anyways).
The paint shop guy was pretty adamant that the type of paint I am using is "1 coat only!!....Work your area and move on!" so that's what I tried to do. It's tougher than it looks trying to cover everything evenly in one shot as opposed to 3 or 4 light coats. I think once I get to a certain point with this chassis I'll go around and hit the weak spots with a quick blast of fresh paint. Don't tell my paint guy.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141204_214546_zpsf1d03df9.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141204_214556_zpsf7c6bb30.jpg)
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It's really hard to cover anything with just one coat. Having said that, it looks great. Love the color. "Best in Show", Owl's Head, 2015. ;)
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I think I agree with Jeff. If any of us were professional auto painters, we may be able to pull off a 'one coat' application, but there are so many nooks and crannies on these frames.
Ya think you hit it all, then you drag it out into the sunshine and start cursing yourself.
None the less, it looks great from here! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Tim
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Drivetrain painted and installed today.
Prior to paint, I did pull the motor and bellhousing apart to inspect the clutch and pilot bushing - all good. I also corrected an earlier mistake of using 3/8-16 bolts to connect the tranny to the bellhousing - BAD BAD! I did this with my 3A and after 6k miles they almost fell out on their own. They seem like they fit but they really do not. Replaced with correct 7/16-14 bolts.
This was a 75% paint prep effort at best. It looks better in the pics than it really is. A quick degreasing and then scrubbing with lacquer thinner and I let the primer fly. I removed some of the engine accessories but left the manifolds intact and painted right over the seepage around the oil pan. The fuel pump is a non-working "place holder" only. I'm forcing myself to keep this thing a camping buggy. It shall blast through woods trails without hesitation!!
Blue block anyone?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141214_081437_zpsde99472d.jpg)
Primed. Well, most of it anyways.....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141214_121304_zps6ec41e26.jpg)
And this is terrifying....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141214_171018_zpsb9752337.jpg)
Settled in without incident.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141214_185836_zps9b17414b.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141214_185847_zpsb50b0994.jpg)
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Based solely on the engine hanger, I'm guessing you went with the running 12v engine and not the "unknown 24 v" engine......ya?
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I decided the non-running engine could turn out to be a significant project in its own right so I have pushed it aside for now and am proceeding with the known good motor. I'll come back to it at some point.
I'm still not completely certain which direction the wiring will go but most likely it'll be a basic 12v setup.
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Dont make it to pretty I still plan on seeing it in NH.
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Also the 24 volt system is not hard to deal with at all. The nice thing is you can crank the engine all day and not run out of battery.
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Brake and steering components all installed. I need to align the front end and bleed and adjust the brakes but at least everything is bolted on. I'm not sure if I'm more excited to see the Jeep coming together or watching my garage floor expand as the debris field of random parts is systematically collected up and bolted back on the vehicle.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141217_191829_zps96daf605.jpg)
Here's another design improvement on an M38 that is worth noting - threaded shock mounts!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141217_190412_zpsfe6c60ac.jpg)
No special tool needed to compress those pesky lower rear mounts. I installed all four shocks without swearing once! Well, almost. I swore when I couldn't find one of the locknuts and realized I will have to pick up another one at the hardware store tomorrow. Even so, this is a much better design than the 3A cotter pin variety.
And yes, I have re-installed muddy, poorly painted shocks without so much as wiping them down. They were new last year but you'd never know it. I'm hoping the mud draws attention away from some of the exposed primer on the leaf springs.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141217_190728_zps782386a0.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141217_190721_zps23da63ca.jpg)
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I need to align the front end
Nice progress!!! I don't know how you guys manage to get so much done in just a few days.
Keep in mind that the toe will change considerably when the weight of the body is added.
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debris field of random parts is systematically collected up and bolted back on the vehicle.
It's amazing how much less room an assembled jeep needs...
You are "cooking with gas" now..!
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debris field of random parts is systematically collected up and bolted back on the vehicle.
It's amazing how much less room an assembled jeep needs...
You are "cooking with gas" now..!
Ins't that the truth.� While in the shop, I'm not the most organized fellow. Anyone have a tool in your hand...set it down somewhere...2 minutes later you need this tool...then spend the next 30 minutes looking for said tool? :D
Tim
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set it down somewhere...2 minutes later you need this tool...then spend the next 30 minutes looking for said tool?
Now that is my favorite trick....tools, wallet,cell phone, you name it. I get lots of exercise crawling out from under the jeep to go get the tool I just left somewhere when I went to get some other thing that I needed.....
I'm glad I'm not alone....
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I'm glad I'm not alone....
I do it all the time...as recently as this morning in my office. It's even better when you start the search having a conversation with yourself along the lines of:
"Ok..I haven't moved 6 feet from the spot I am in now since I last saw it...."
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The rule I have is when you don't find it in your hand, it's time to stop, clean up and put away all tools back where they belong, and start over. It's faster than looking for the tool that is under some trash or box. John
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eep in mind that the toe will change considerably when the weight of the body is added.
Thanks for the clarification on that Bob. I kept going back and forth in my head trying to decide if add'l weight would affect the toe in. I'll leave it alone for now and make the final adjustment once everything is together...(or I'll completely forget about it and you can point me back to this post when I fly into a ditch after losing a battle with a horrible alignment during the initial test drive). ;D
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I have really been struggling with weld repairs. I'm pretty sure I have a Willys prototype where they tried to reduce weight by building a tub out of tin foil instead of heavy steel. The metal in the wheel houses that I've been working on blows to dust if I get within 10 feet of it with the welding gun. This is my first welding project so my skills leave a lot to be desired too.
I needed a change of scenery today so I unceremoniously removed the rotted tool box.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_145917_zps640fdead.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_113317_zpsa3db2b71.jpg)
This looks pretty rough
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_113513_zpsa716a948.jpg)
So let's get rid of it
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_121341_zps62ef27f9.jpg)
My first ever fabbed repair panel. I'm beaming with pride....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_121400_zps18b269ec.jpg)
Could be better but could also be a lot worse
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_121416_zps61713d79.jpg)
Much better luck down here. No blown holes!!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_123843_zps60e29650.jpg)
Well, pretty horrid but I'll take it for a first effort. I learned a lot here and this spot will not be that visible anyways. I'll continue to pick away at neatening it up.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141225_143819_zps0ee87ff0.jpg)
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Looks good to me...I think you are getting it....
Are you trying to run beads of weld or are you doing spots here and there and eventually filling in the gaps...stitch welding I think it's called....the point is to prevent excessive heat build up and warping/distortion of the metal parts....
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I've been doing little spots and then filling in the gaps. If I think it's getting too hot I'll jump around to different sections or give it a rest entirely until things cool down. That goes for me and the metal ;D
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Yeah-you gotta stay cool 8-)
And make sure those edges are clean before you start...no paint or ink on the old metal, and wipe the new with denatured alcohol or something as new metal has oil on it....
Good work, the patch looks great....Kinda fun don't you think?
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Kinda fun don't you think?
I've found there's an extremely fine line between:
"This is FUN....!"
and
"THIS IS GOING TO THE *&#$^#$^$ SCRAP YARD TOMORROW...!!!!!!"
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Randy stated the most important item, the metal needs to be CLEAN. Also remember you can't weld rust - no matter how hard you try.
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Nice work Ryan.
I'm beginning to think your early welding challenges were a result of metal degradation, and not your skill.
Tim
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I'm beginning to think your early welding challenges were a result of metal degradation, and not your skill.�
My skills definitely leave a lot to be desired but of all places for me to start welding on a tub the wheelhouses were probably the worst choice. The metal is just so tender there. Even if I can patch them up now I will have ongoing concerns that new holes may appear in a short amount of time. The metal may literally be paper thin in places, if not worse.
Welding attempts in other areas have shown that there is hope for my skills yet. That patch shown above was passable and I have made a few other miscellaneous repairs that came out well.�
It sure is handy having a welder. I discovered a break in the alternator bracket this week which would have previously meant constructing a whole new bracket. Instead, a couple "zapp zapp zapp's" and it's good as new with less than 5 minutes work.
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a couple "zapp zapp zapp's" and it's good as new with less than 5 minutes work.
You will wonder how you got by without it.....
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It's been a productive long weekend in the garage.
Radiator, fan, front bumper, front and rear lift shackles, and clutch cross shaft installed. Alternator and distributor painted and secured. I filled up all the fluids and not too many of them leaked back out. I said a prayer to the Jeep Gods and slipped the clutch cable into place without sending the clutch fork rattling into the bottom of the bell housing. That immediately turns a 2-minute task into an extremely awkward afternoon of cruising the neighborhood in search of a 5-yr old with small hands who, "for $5 and some candy", will "help me with something in the garage". I'm thankful I didn't have to go there.
The exhaust has been set in place but not properly secured yet. I was the lucky recipient of a holiday prize that may require complete rerouting of said exhaust so I'm leaving it alone for now. More on that next week.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141228_110052_zpsc35db282.jpg)
Freshly painted bumper with one original shackle bracket and one new replacement. Note: A single shackle does not make a good tow point when lodged in a 4' high snowbank. It will break.
My late grandfather's vintage Craftsman oil can (on the battery tray) saw some action yesterday. It's old and useful and I like it.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141228_105956_zps7b858d63.jpg)
I've deemed the wheel houses unfit for further repair and have ordered replacements. This is the first foray into panel replacement. I think it went all right but I'm naturally superior at destruction anyways. The real test will be to see if I can get the new ones in.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20141228_105859_zps67b03e09.jpg)
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" I'm naturally superior at destruction anyways. The real test will be to see if I can get the new ones in."
Classic line there Ryan
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The top of the wheel house is a great choice for replacement.� Pretty straight forward, and very visual.�
I always look at the condition of the wheel house while surfing eWillys.� In my mind, the condition of this surface tells me a lot about how the Willys was treated overall.� I know that's a reach, but in my twisted perception of the Willys world, it works. :-/
Tim
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Your floors look pretty sound, are they? That would be a big plus. And I see you have all the knick-knacks on the body. That stuff adds up if you have to replace or add them down the road.
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The floors are sound. Both driver and passenger floor have already been replaced by the PO and he did a good job with them. The rear floor is surprisingly solid aside from some rust where it overhangs the riser. I am going to replace some or all of that riser so I'll deal with it then.
And yes, all knick-knackery seems to be accounted for except for the axe handle bracket which I have already purchased.
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Been delayed waiting on parts. The Walck's floor riser arrived today so it was back to business. The riser looks really good but it is designed for a 2A or 3A so I'll have to poke a new hole in it to accommodate the M38's differently routed fuel line. Hopefully that's the only real difference. For the price it seemed better to buy this entire riser than to try and patch and repair the existing one. (Wait, couldn't that logic be used to simply buy a shiny restored Willys someone else just sold you for $0.50 on their dollar instead of rebuilding these stupid things??).
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150102_195042_zpssz5ukz7w.jpg)
I also cut a rotted section of the transmission tunnel and will need to fab a replacement patch.
The floor is a little crispy where the passenger side attaches to the riser. I will come up with a patch here too but it will probably not blend in well. I don't care. I'm not replacing that whole floor....
Old riser removed and section of surgically extracted trans tunnel sitting on the rear floor.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150102_200203_zpskzjczy5x.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150102_200211_zpsdsni0wii.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150102_195014_zpsmzpiq7uu.jpg)
I think I may drag the old stripped frame back inside and mount the tub to it to make sure I get the riser installed in the correct location and to help keep the whole tub squared up.
My MD Juan replacement tool box arrived today too. What a trainwreck that thing is. I need to digest what I'm even looking at before I post any more about it. Yikes.
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The floor patch came out much better than expected. You'll still be able to tell that it's an obvious repair but I didn't burn through or have to cut out any of the ridges. I'll neaten it up some more once the floor riser is installed.
Clamped
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150103_192322_zpsde97eb77.jpg)
Tacked
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150103_192918_zpsefb6e782.jpg)
Done
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150103_204913_zpsc96345cc.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150103_182219_zps493e9919.jpg)
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Aaaahhhh!! I was scrolling through your photos...got to the bottom....screamed out loud [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif].
Your progress is great. Once you got a welder, I had a feeling this tub would come apart. You just couldn't help yourself...could you?
Tim
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Once you got a welder, I had a feeling this tub would come apart. You just couldn't help yourself...could you?
I still would have preferred this go as I originally thought it would - "patch a couple small holes, paint, and install...." but I suppose I should have known better.
The right wheel house is still there as I want to install the floor riser and left wheel house before removing anything else.
How much can you take apart before you really have to worry about losing the "squareness" of the tub? My spare frame is frozen solid to the ground outside and with just me here I can't really mount the tub on my rolling chassis without making a complete mess of it. I'm probably running a huge risk by not checking alignment with the frame for each piece but I'm hoping if I do them one or two at a time I can keep everything aligned as it was. Any thoughts?
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I think at this point you really should put the tub on the frame to be sure everything gets welded square.
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I think at this point you really should put the tub on the frame to be sure everything gets welded square.
GOOD CALL Bob. I mounted the tub on my stripped frame (after breaking it out of the frozen ground with my plow truck. It tore free with such force that it flew up and punched a hole through the vinyl siding on my garage. The true "cost" of Willys rehab stretches much further than Walck's receipts some days.....).
After persuading the rusty mounting brackets to measure the same dimensions as the ones on the good frame I squared the tub up and tacked in place the floor riser. Without setting this tub on the frame it is 100% guaranteed I would have been way out of alignment. It took me the better part of two hours to get it "just right". What a colossal mess it would have been if I just eyeballed it as originally planned. Here it is on the stripped frame.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150104_115923_zps729929ff.jpg)
Even after sleeping on it for a night I decided there was too much at stake to cut any corners here and devised a way to get the tub onto the "real" frame. I didn't think the engine hoist would have the reach but it was remarkably easy. I scratched the paint on the frame while sliding the tub around but in this case I really don't care. I can see why it would be advantageuous to do your body work first, though, if you were going for a high quality restoration.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150105_185330_zps9ec358bd.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150105_191528_zpsd0918bce.jpg)
I didn't spend much more time on it tonight but everything seems to line up here compared to the other frame, which is obviously a relief. I will secure it with a few bolts before continuing any work on the wheelhouses.
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Good choice Ryan. I know it's a pain to set the tub, but you've already found out how critical it is.
Off topic...Tell me about the grey tank in the background.
Tim
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Off topic...Tell me about the grey tank in the background.
That's the heating oil for the boiler. It's a huge PITA to have it there. Generally an oil tank like that would be located in the basement but I do not have a basement so there it sits...hoarding valuable space that could be used for Jeep parts. I have been tempted many times to convert to a propane system as propane tanks can sit outside.
Taped to that tank is a pic of a perfectly restored M38. It's my inspiration any time I start getting too particular about any one thing on this project. I look at it and think, "If my M38 turns out that nice I won't want to drive it in the mud....let's keep this thing rough enough so you'll use it, ok?".
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Thanks. I thought that might be a heating oil tank, but wasn't sure. Colorado is heated with natural gas or propane. Geographical differences I guess.
Tim
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Colorado is heated with natural gas or propane. Geographical differences I guess.
Maine is just starting to get on the nat gas bandwagon where the rest of the country has been for years. Right now it's pretty limited to just the cities. Houses out in the boonies like mine will probably not see natural gas in my lifetime.
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Hey Ryan,
I got your PM but I also noticed that your project has an alternator painted black - that does not look bad at all!
Best regards from the fracking state of Texas
George
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My Carter YS returned today from Dr. Scoutpilot's intensive care unit.�
Here's what I shipped him:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/YSbefore_zps835a309f.jpg)
Here's what came back. Isn't she a pretty?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/output_zpsdwbcj22s.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150108_181021_zpsci3asi7a.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150108_181013_zpsstrvcpjp.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150108_181007_zpsz1ie2gya.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150108_181028_zpsu62l9spz.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150108_181039_zpschnfo5bp.jpg)
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It's only once you start welding body panels do you seriously determine the number of vice grips in your possession. Never before have mine all been assembled in one place at one time. Turns out I have 13. I was surprised at that number. I would have guessed half that many. Regardless, I'll likely be purchasing some more.
The floor riser and transmission hump panel are in....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150110_153329_zpsjlcvhvou.jpg)
...so the CRAPCO toolbox was the order of the day.�
I'm pretty sure this lid is just a flattened Pepsi can painted black.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150102_215053_zpseznfgnr6.jpg)
So off it comes...
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150110_134151_zpsquexxjty.jpg)
...and is replaced with the lid from the original M38 tool box.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150110_145203_zps2x2jpupw.jpg)
MD Juan must also assume that everyone has an extra latch loop so they don't bother putting one on their tool box either. No problem, I had one of those too.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150110_145207_zpspnek4rxc.jpg)
Aside from this I had to snip, grind, and bend quite a few edges and oddly positioned bracing channels that were seemingly installed for no other reason than to get in the way.
I'm waiting until the wheel houses to arrive before I actually attach the tool box to the tub but I think it's in pretty good shape now. Oh yeah, better save this rain gutter because the tool box doesn't have one of those either.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150110_145152_zps76rf0unt.jpg)
I guess I should be appreciative that MD Juan is making these toolboxes as apparently they are the only ones doing it. If someone else out there wants to dive into the Willys tool box manufacturing arena you won't have to work that hard to decimate a monopoly.
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Nice work....With MDJ being the only manufacturer you just have to deal with it....unfortunately..
Now what would you do without that welder?
Question: I've been researching M-38's....there is one for sale nearby..
Do either of your body tubs have that welded on reinforcement strap around the rear corner, roughly from the� tailgate loop to about halfway through the top of the rear corner?
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Do either of your body tubs have that welded on reinforcement strap around the rear corner, roughly from the tailgate loop to about halfway through the top of the rear corner?
Are you talking about this? I figured it was the work of Bubba but maybe not?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150110_170221_zps3907d345.jpg)
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Do either of your body tubs have that welded on reinforcement strap around the rear corner, roughly from the� tailgate loop to about halfway through the top of the rear corner?
Are you talking about this? I figured it was the work of Bubba but maybe not?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952 M38 SN 56849/20150110_170221_zps3907d345.jpg)
It apparently was added as a result of a service bulletin or something...and sometimes they came that way from the factory. It was supposed to add strength for the hard top or arctic top..
It should be roughly 3 5/8" by 8".....and Bubba still may have had a hand in it....
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Very interesting. When I first noticed them I checked out a couple other M38 tubs online and they didn't have those patches. The welds look a little sloppy too so I figured for sure they were Bubba. I like your explanation much better.
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While researching the M38, I noticed that reinforcing plate on the majority of them. Like you guys, I initially figured Bubba had paid a visit. Eventually, I figured Bubba couldn't have visited that many...could he? ;D
I'm sorry to see your tool box battle. I think Rommel is trying to improve these parts, but I've never heard anyone praise the MDJ toolbox.
Aside from this, the resurrection of your M38 is coming together nicely.
Tim
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It's funny because when I first got this tub I actually priced out what it would cost (financially and mentally) to remove those patches and replace the panels beneath them. I decided in this case it wasn't worth the effort. I'm glad I left them alone!
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That carburetor is a real work of art.
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Yep some of those reinforcement panels are pretty rough looking. But since they were field installed and stick welded on, what do you expect. They didn't care so much back then the way things looked over their functionality.
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My m38 had a hard top on it while in the military. Since it was a USAF jeep it never got the plats welded in.
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I tip my hat to you guys who have resurrected these truly destroyed tubs. This light duty overhaul I'm doing on mine is tedious enough. Finally, wheel houses and tool box are IN.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_191530_zpsf1d1328b.jpg)
The wheelhouses fit up pretty well but that tool box is bonafide a train wreck. I hammered it into shape but it will still need a little more wrestling once I get the tub off again and can get better access to the underside.
I have two driver's seats. Both have issues but the one on the right is the better of the pair. With that said, you can see that Bubba welded a new leg (a bent piece of hardware store pipe) onto it at some point. Apparently Bubba doesn't own a tape measure and left it about an inch too long. A longer leg means the seat doesn't match up anywhere close to where the seat bracket on the wheel house should be. No good.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_182445_zpsc48284b8.jpg)
After carefully measuring I cut the legs off both and transferred the good leg over to the good seat.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_183035_zpsc1785e6b.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_183051_zps2be01343.jpg)
Tacked in place
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_183836_zps5ae4131d.jpg)
Next I fit the seat into the tub and lined up the bracket. I held the bracket in place with a couple magnets on the back side of the wheel house. I pulled the seat out and could now mark and then weld the bracket in place. Magnets holding it here:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_184951_zps68ad4d9f.jpg)
Knowing the seat sits as it should I finished welding the leg. Came out pretty well.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_190420_zps616f1312.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_191504_zps7ee804d8.jpg)
I picked up all the other body parts yesterday too. The have been blasted and primed. The paint shop guys added green to the epoxy primer as they figured it would be easier to top coat with green paint. The fenders will need a little TLC due to a couple weak spots but the other piece are rock solid.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150117_090049_zpsc85f2d7a.jpg)
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There's that squirrel gun again....
Tub looks nice and solid.....I'll bet it was fun to sit in it for the first time since the rebuild started......did you hold the steering wheel in place? ;D
Ain't it great to have a big pile of fresh parts just waiting for assembly?
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did you hold the steering wheel in place?
No....but I was tempted.....
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I'm still waffling badly on just how I will wire the M38 but I've at least committed to a 12V conversion. It had a key start CJ5 starter when I got it but I thought it would be cool to revert back to floor start and keep the stock look.
I just happen to have a pile of 24V M38 starters. The last early style one I sold went for about $300. The last late-style one I sold went for less than $7. I know this is sacrilege to some but I figured a $7 late-style starter was expendable under these circumstances.
I took one to my trusty old-school starter shop guy where he completely gutted and rebuilt it. Can you tell which one is 24V and which one is 12V?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN
%2056849/20150113_181030_zps2a470677.jpg)
The one with the white grease on the spring is the rebuilt 12V. You can see he had to mill and shorten the case to make everything fit. That means the stock starter bracket won't work anymore so I'll have to fab a new one but that's pretty simple stuff. With a little luck this thing will look and work flawlessly now with a 12V system.
After a quick rattle can blast.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN
%2056849/20150117_204102_zpsc7fbe604.jpg)
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Cool idea, I like it.
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Looking great Ryan I cant wait to see it finished!
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How do you deal with the 24v gauges when you change to 12v?
And the bulbs etc etc....?
And I don't blame you...just the buying two batteries will break the bank...
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How do you deal with the 24v gauges when you change to 12v?
You put them in a box with the rest of the 24V gear and store them away. If one of these years I don't drag a Jeep home in the fall maybe a proper conversion back to 24V can be my "winter project".
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Nice work. My tub has the plates on the back also. Mine also looked bubbaish but I found them to be original so they stayed.
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M38s are fun.
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Yes m38's are the best
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/New%20Hampshire%2008092014/20140809_121721_zpse812150f.jpg)
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Nice looking rigs guys.
And Bill, that pic of yours may be the last known image of my Arctic Top in pristine condition....
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You guys sick of looking at pics of this tub yet?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150119_145319_zps7b22a917.jpg)
Well, it's almost done. I've spent the past three days crawling all over this thing trying to button up any loose ends.�
Bracketry, trinketry, and wheelhouse footman loopery - check.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150119_145307_zps40d064d8.jpg)
Driver's seat nut - check. Thanks NATE!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150119_085257_zps242d4ca3.jpg)
All holes filled and ground. Tender hat channel section cut out and replaced. Rear mount tab cut and reinforced.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150119_085318_zpsb3c3e5f3.jpg)
I'm pretty much ready for whatever's next. What is next anyways? The plan is to use a rust converter, then apply small doses of body filler where needed, then epoxy primer, then paint. Is that the right order?
Before I pulled the tub I fit up the primed parts just to ensure they all still like each other. There's no reason they shouldn't but having never seen them together I figured better safe than sorry. All good. The fenders will need some TLC but everything else is ready to go.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150118_103428_zps79b9aba0.jpg)
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Wow, you're on a mission. It looks great. I wish I could find an old time starter/generator shop around here.
Did the correct wheel house tops fit well?
Tim
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Nice job Ryan, your welding ability has come along pretty quick!
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Welding is improving. And yes, new correct wheelhouses fit well enough. I'm a little suspicious of the passenger side one but I made it work.
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You guy's are making me want an M-38...and a new project!
Ryan,
Do either of your engines have the rebuild tag on them, like this one? Is that the rebuild date, 2-61, or some other cryptic code?
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Ryan you certainly work fast. I am hoping to maybe repaint my m38 this year. I am kind of on the fence about that, I dont want it to look to nice I cant use it off road but it also deserves to have a good paint job.
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Do either of your engines have the rebuild tag on them, like this one?
Neither of my two M38 motors have a tag. Is the guy advertising it as a "freshly rebuilt motor"? ;D
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Fender repair time!
I tried filling these tender spots but they were just too far gone. All I did was chase holes around. I know better than to waste too much time doing that now!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150120_183237_zpsec54d8d0.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150120_183313_zpsad4b4ba1.jpg)
So I cut out the cancer and made a patch.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150120_194507_zps7e04c9ea.jpg)
And set it in place. Those little clamps are great. Was it Randy that turned me on to those?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150120_195914_zps0f9275a0.jpg)
Then stitch 'er up.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150120_201949_zps4dc0e36e.jpg)
Then grind it smooth.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150120_203346_zps584dd894.jpg)
I should have made the patch just a hair longer and then cut it flush with the existing fender as it comes up a bit short. I still need to add another backing patch on the inside so I can compensate there and then touch it up.
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Oh, I see you have some of those welding spacer-clamp things...
Wish I had some when I was doing mine....
That welding comes in handy, don't it?
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Is the guy advertising it as a "freshly rebuilt motor"?
No, but it "ran when parked" :D (ten years ago)
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Ryan,
Your welds look terrific. I don't know that I would worry about that lower edge. It's pretty much hidden by the step anyway.
Tim
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Glad the nut plate worked for you Ryan!
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This is where stuff really gets dicey. Since I feel the tub is too tender for yet another rounding of sand blasting I hit it with some Permatex rust converter. A friend has overhauled several vehicles and raves about the stuff. Online reviews are a little less favorable. We'll find out soon enough.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150124_135650_zpslekyfg2g.jpg)
I started filling in all my welding blemishes with Bondo and paste. I didn't get very far before I decided I really didn't like it. I ground most of it off and proceeded with the tub "as-is". The blemishes and imperfections will be on display for all to see. I figure if the paint is going to fall off I"m OK seeing bare metal but not chunks of Bondo. This is a thrasher Jeep. I want it highly functional but still rough around the edges.
This is before I chased the fresh bondo away with my trusty flapper wheel:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150126_184209_zpsgnhflmyj.jpg)
Then I got distracted to go deal with way more snow than I hoped to see today
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150127_143206_zpsqchhohpl.jpg)
Now for the first round of primer. I ran dry so I'll have to pick up some more tomorrow. If I paint a vehicle "for real" next time I will be sending it out. Trying to pull this off in my cramped garage with my extreme lack of patience is just never going to produce a quality result. Again, I'm OK with that for this project.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150127_190523_zpsdhrgzu8a.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150127_190540_zpsju96pt8r.jpg)
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They look pretty good when you get them all one color, kinda like all the parts belong together...
I was going to try lead instead of filler...glad I didn't now. I did use some All-Metal filler which is really hard to work with but looks like metal if scratched...
If you paint it flat OD the imperfections won't show all that much..it'll just look authentic...
The tool box looks fine in there....nothing like a little "persuading" to get them to fit!
We haven't seen that much snow here in the last 5 years put together....
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Very nice Ryan! I like that you are not trying to make it look perfect.
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So I have a question....
The fuel line on the M-38 feeds from the top of the tank...is that right?
How is it routed from there? Just to get it out of the tub...
I'm guessing that hole in the floor is for the tank drain?
That local M-38 is still available for 6K....but it has a 2a/3a tank...I'm just wondering how many holes he had to cut to make that 2a/3a tank work....
Ya know, that M-38 of yours is going to look great....
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The M38 fuel line does connect to the top of the tank. There is a pick-up/filter that is located inside the tank. From there the line goes down around the back side of the fuel tank and out through a small hole in the floor riser (thanks for reminding me as I need to drill this hole this now...I've been putting it off and now that it's time to do it I had forgotten...).
Once through the floor riser it bends around and runs pretty much the same as a 3A. There are a couple extra brackets and clips required to keep all this junk in place. Here are a few pics from the maintenance manual that may make some sense of my rambling.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/M38%20Fuel%20filter_zpsfbayta0i.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/M38%20fuel%20tank_zpshbclkzeb.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/M38%20Fuel%20and%20air_zpszrgfjpfq.jpg)
You can see there are fittings for the vent lines too if you want to go crazy and rig all that stuff up. I am not including any of that on mine. I'll just need to make sure I find a bridge before trying to cross any rivers� ;)
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You shouldn't have told me your plans. I'm going to deduct 10 points now at the show for no tank vent. ;) How's the snow by the way? John
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You shouldn't have told me your plans. I'm going to deduct 10 points now at the show for no tank vent.� ;) How's the snow by the way? John
I won't have any points left by the time you get to the fording system anyways - I'm not worried.
And the snow, well it sucks. Come and get it. You can have all you want for free :)
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find a bridge before trying to cross any rivers
If you are so deep in the river that you need the vents I'd guess the party would be just about over anyway...
Thanks for the diagrams. I had no idea it was so complex....I have been told that if you hope to fully restore a M-38 plan on about twice the cost of a CJ....
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.I have been told that if you hope to fully restore a M-38 plan on about twice the cost of a CJ....
I guess it all depends on what's there and what isn't. The 24V parts and the fording trinkets are the bigger money items. Aside from that I don't see too much of a difference in cost but as we all know a lot of little things can really add up. Air cleaner, tool brackets, YS carb, lifting shackles, etc will set you back if you have to go buy them all. That's why I'm keeping mine 12V with a lot of 3A stuff....I'll save a bunch of money and nobody but us forum geeks will be able to tell the difference anyways :D
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nobody but us forum geeks will be able to tell the difference anyways� :D
I'll tell it to everyone! [smiley=evil.gif]
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I administered a heavy coating of paint to the tub tonight. Throwing the paint store guy's advice completely to the wind I covered everything with multiple coats instead of the prescribed "single coat". On the final pass to use up the last of the paint I got about half way across and realized I was blowing water out of the gun. Not good.
My M38 now sports approximately the same finish as a desert lizard. On the fence about whether to try and repair or just forge ahead.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150129_194503_zpsw4g2fajt.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150129_194449_zpss13sjsrl.jpg)
And a close-up of the lizard skin in a particularly bad area. Upon inspection of my compressor's year old $7 moisture trap I noticed for the first time the words "REPLACE WEEKLY". Yup, should have done that.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150129_192544_zpspewddare.jpg)
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Once completely dry, it may not look as rough as it does right now.�
If you can't bare to sport this, probably realistic paint job, let it dry completely, sand the roughs with some 200 grit paper, then shoot one more finish coat.� Would likely come out great.
Edit...And could you please put some air in that compressor tire? It's driving me crazy. ;)
Tim
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Desert Lizard, in Maine? And of course there are "fence" lizards also....but generally native to a dryer climate....
But now I see you have one in captivity....
Do what Tim advises.....it'll be fine.....
Of course you probably don't remember "Rat Patrol" how could you, not having been born....
Desert lizards for sure though....
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I'll give you $500 cash and 2 new air dryers from Harbor Freight... I'll pick it up this weekend and not only will you not have to look at it anymore your wife can put her car back in the garage! (after 3 feet of snow Tuesday has she even found her car yet)
You will have an extra $500 and finally a weekend with nothing to do and she will have a dinner date and her garage space/paint booth back... That's a win, win, win for you!
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I'll give you $500 cash and 2 new air dryers from Harbor Freight...
Haha there are moments when I'd give you the whole thing for free. Not today though.
And Harbor Freight - I just moments ago got news that one has opened a short distance from your house. Your life will never be the same again.
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This morning's breakfast: One large slice of AWESOMENESS for the M38.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150131_114638_zpsrw67jpol.jpg)
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Oh Yeah!
You'll be cruzin....
Whats for lunch?
I'm having jeep knuckles with pudding...
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Whats for lunch?
Wiring spaghetti and exhaust tip. ;D
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I would love in overdirve for my m38. However with the pto winch is gets a little more difficult.
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Bill, as you know, I have an OD and PTO in Ted.
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Yes but I have the original ramsey 50 winch in my jeep and dont want to have to modify anything to make it work.
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The tub is installed and reassembly continues.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150208_153243_zpsga7f8bwq.jpg)
For all you flatlanders out there here's what happens in the Great White North when you realize you are missing a firewall plate on your "new" tub and think there may still be one on your "old" tub - You excavate a path into the woods and scavenge it.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150208_083930_zpsm1i3w7wd.jpg)
Carb with choke, hand throttle linkage, and crossover tube/intake plumbing rigged up. I bought an NOS ratcheting hand throttle last year (mostly because they are just plain cool) and was disappointed when I found the cable to be about an inch too short to use with a Carter WO. It hooks up nicely to the Carter YS.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150208_153301_zps5frhzaqh.jpg)
The removable gauge panel alleviates the need to show off your contortionist skills when it comes time to wire everything up. I did not have to slither under the dash once.
I am using a new 3A harness from Walcks. Incidentally, it is the exact same harness that Kaiser Willys sells. Even the handwritten sections of the instructions are the same.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150208_105710_zpsztnxk8c8.jpg)
Dirty fuel tank and unwashed unpainted seats plopped right back in place. Everything fits as it should. This is a thrasher Jeep and looks the part but I'm not sure I'll be able to live with that Oil Pressure gauge. I draw the line at orange gauge needles on a Willys.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150208_153216_zps5zvr2jzd.jpg)
I was able to reclaim this neat little apparatus from my pile of random M38 parts. It's a fuel shut off valve.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150207_173517_zpspajsmnss.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150207_173523_zpsjoovwsio.jpg)
If this was a proper M38 I'd run a line from the plugged "T" fitting to a dash mounted priming pump. I do not have any of the priming stuff so it'll stay plugged. Here it is installed next to the two tone steering box ;D
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150207_175201_zpsna4grgsl.jpg)
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The gas shut off is a fairly hard to find item.
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So, Ryan, what are you gonna do next week after you have this M-38 up and running?
Besides plowing snow....
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So, Ryan, what are you gonna do next week after you have this M-38 up and running?
LOL I wish. It'll be more than a week I'm afraid. All the body parts you don't see installed still need to be painted (did I mention I hate painting????).
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Its coming along Ryan!
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You really are clipping right along. Sure wish Willys would have offered the removable gauge cluster on all 3As. I envy you.
Tim
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Paint huffing den is open for business again. Tim, the compressor tires are still flat. They won't hold air for more than 30 seconds. I've been meaning to buy replacement wheels for a couple years now it has just never once crossed my mind when I'm actually in a store that sells them. Is that a sign of paint fume induced brain activity degradation?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150210_102149_zps8ncze3sj.jpg)
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[size=12]"Tim, the compressor tires are still flat." [/size]
That's okay Ryan.� I'm just funnin ya anyway.� Every once in a while I like to pretend I have OCD. ;D� If you saw my workshop, you would surely know I'm not afflicted with this particular disorder.
The color...tell me about it.� It's darker than mine.� I really, really like it.�
Tim
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The color...tell me about it. It's darker than mine. I really, really like it.
I took my NOS M38 radiator guard to the paint shop. We cleaned up a small area then they used their analyzer gadget to read the color and mixed up a matching paint. It looks much darker when wet and gradually lightens as it dries. I'm still not convinced it's an exact color match to the NOS grille but it's close. I've only been able to compare them in my poorly lit garage. I'll need to take some fully cured parts outside and compare in the sunlight.
The biggest drawback is the shop could not supply any rattle cans of the stuff. Any time I want to paint anything I need to go through all the motions of mixing everything and using the compressor....which means dragging it around the garage on those square wheels ;D
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awesome! I love it! I'm jealous! congrats, though. is it just the angle that the picture was taken, or do the front fenders on your white one have more of a radius to them? the M38 looks more squared off like my cj-3a, but the ones on your white one look like they have more of a slope to them.
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Do either of your body tubs have that welded on reinforcement strap around the rear corner, roughly from the� tailgate loop to about halfway through the top of the rear corner?
Are you talking about this? I figured it was the work of Bubba but maybe not?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952 M38 SN 56849/20150110_170221_zps3907d345.jpg)
I found this in the Arctic Top manual. Still not sure if this reinforcement plate was installed solely for Arctic Top usage or if for general overall strength improvement but it was neat to see it documented - crappy welds and all.
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Shakedown run time! It took three tries but I finally made it out of the garage. First attempt was stymied by a small fire (Signal Stat power wire shorted on the ammeter bracket - wire has now been moved to ignition switch...) and the second attempt resulted in watching oil pour out from under the dash (kinked and broken oil pressure gauge line). The third time was the charm.
I only drove maybe a mile but all felt good. There's no reason it shouldn't feel good as I know all the components were fine before I took everything apart....but you never quite know what'll happen when you shift into gear for the first time. Good thing the heavy and recent salt applications kept me off the main roads or I may have just kept on driving.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150215_125458_zpshdp6qu5q.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150215_125511_zpsnannf2en.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150215_125200_zpsghfzgvhz.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150215_125208_zpssj7xjp8k.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150215_125214_zpsyzogpmyk.jpg)
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Sweet looking Jeep!
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Very Nice!
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Looking good Ryan!
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So, Ryan, what are you gonna do next week after you have this M-38 up and running?
Besides plowing snow....
Well maybe I should go into the fortune telling business or something....
But I see there are a few more holes to fill....
And the snow has already been plowed..
It looks great of course....
All you need now is a 48 star flag and a machine gun....and maybe a little less snow :D
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I believe you put that out faster than Willy's Overland did in 49...
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Haha lots to do so it's far from finished. But at about 90 days from when it drove into the garage on one frame and drove out on another I'll take it. Still roughly 80 days longer than anticpated when I embarked on this foolish project though ;D
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Looks like it should be good and ready by July 18!!
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looks great!
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I'm Lovin It! :)
90 days may be a new record of some sort. :) I thought G-Gnome put Ted together fast.
Tim
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I thought G-Gnome put Ted together fast.
I am a huge Ted fan and he was the inspiration to slam this wreck together (take that as a compliment, Nate).
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Haha glad Ted inspired you Ryan! Unfortunately, he is retired from 4 wheeling. Except from NH though. ;) He started that, so he has to keep going!
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Still not sure if this reinforcement plate was installed solely for Arctic Top usage or if for general overall strength improvement
I think the plates were a general improvement. Notice that the plates are not part of the Arctic Top kit. MWO ORD G740-W6 instructs that all M-38s should get the reinforcements installed. There is no Willys part number for the plates so it's unlikely that the factory ever installed the plates on M-38s.
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I think the plates were a general improvement. Notice that the plates are not part of the Arctic Top kit. MWO ORD G740-W6 instructs that all M-38s should get the reinforcements installed. There is no Willys part number for the plates so it's unlikely that the factory ever installed the plates on M-38s.
Valuable insight as always. Thanks Bob. The M38 carried a considerable amount of luggage back there as compared to previous models with tailgates (2A/3A). It must have been more than that tub could handle under strenuous conditions.
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A little more progress.
Jerry can holder and spare tire bracket installed. Bubba tail lights carried over from "old" M38 and installed here. I am keeping my modified brake light switch too.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150219_204457_zpsru3otr4t.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150217_191012_zpshayiojn4.jpg)
Horn is now functional, hood blocks, windshield strap, and both headlight brackets are in place. I am awaiting the windshield seal but I couldn't resist setting the frame in place just to see what it looks like.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150219_204422_zpsus0mtmcf.jpg)
And I realized today the real reason I bought a welder was not to fix the tub and similar mundane tasks. It was so I could buy this:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150219_161916_zps8pizwj9o.jpg)
And turn this:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150219_161922_zpsbesphzhs.jpg)
Into this:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150219_170108_zps2ayoa4fx.jpg)
So I can have this:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150219_204343_zpsoohornjv.jpg)
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Simply awesome!
Tim
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You are planning to make up a few extra on those I hope... That is a great idea!
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You are planning to make up a few extra on those I hope... That is a great idea!
Hardly my original idea but the only ones I could find online were $45. I went to the military surplus store and bought the dummy grenade there for $12. I widened the hole in the bottom with a step bit, welded two nuts together then ground the flat edges of the nuts round, inserted into the grenade, and welded 'er up.
Nothing like driving across town to a mil surp store in the middle of a snowstorm and walking up to the counter and telling the cashier:
"I'd like one dummy grenade please".
"Pineapple or basball style?"
"Pineapple."
She grabs one from the rack of 100 or so behind the counter, hands it to me.
"Thanks"
"Is that all you came in for?"
"That's all. Why, is it abnormal to drive across town in a blizzard to buy one inert grenade?"
"Yes."
You know you are a weirdo when you are standing in a crazy gun store with the sounds of rented machine guns blasting away in the background and the pink haired pierced up employee is looking at you like you are the oddball.
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Just curious.... Did you drive across town in a blizzard, in an open cab M38 with your steel WW2 helmet on, asking for a grenade?
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Just curious....� Did you drive across town in a blizzard, in an open cab M38 with your steel WW2 helmet on, asking for a grenade?
No, but I certainly would have. The cold and snow doesn't scare me but the road salt does.....
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New battery time! With such a momentous occasion I decided it was time to retire the bungee cord and twine from their duties as a makeshift hold-down bracket.
I made this instead:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150220_203010_zpsn141oj26.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150223_170355_zpsbby4pefx.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150221_171500_zpsi4oceoyc.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150223_171542_zpsewtgpoae.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150223_173451_zpsf3hokn5p.jpg)
When I bought the battery I didn't pay close enough attention to how close the positive terminal is to the edge. Once the cable is installed it's dangerously close to making contact with the bracket. As a precautionary measure I coated the entire bracket in "Plasti-Dip" (very cool stuff btw) and then cut a small insulator pad to go around the positive terminal. I'll probably end up cutting a piece of inner tube to use as an insulator pad so it blends in a little better but I didn't have anything else handy tonight.
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Very nice...
Aren't you glad you kept the welder?
Many many years ago we were driving gently down a dirt road when the battery blew up...this was in the CJ-5......the bracket had loosened enough that it shorted against the positive pole, overheated the battery, and KaBlamo!
I still use the metal brackets, but I make sure they are tight... ;)
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Looks good Ryan! Just round off the corners to you won't be slicing yourself every time you have to clean the distributor cap or points. ;)
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A little more progress this week:
Windshield installed. Grill welting installed and hood squared up. 4 reflectors added. Spare tire mounted and installed. Jerry can strapped down, albeit incorrectly (How is it supposed to go anyways??). Crudely upholstered (by PO) back seat loosely set in place (really cool how it folds up....).
It's 5�F. Might as well go for a ride before work.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150226_070159_zps5ueea5nc.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150226_070146_zpsldr2qcc3.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150226_070240_zpsdohcevbt.jpg)
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Looks great, I really like the color. And nothing like a clear new windshield to spruce things up, too!
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You did a fantastic job! What a contrast from page one of this thread to now....
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very impressive!
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Nicely done, love it
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Since I'm going to try and register this M38 as a regular passenger vehicle (as opposed to an "Antique") it'll need to pass a state inspection. I don't need to bring the vehicle to today's standards but if it was stock equipment when the vehicle was new it needs to be there. No seat belts? No problem...an M38 never had them. No wiper? Problem. I need to have one of those.
I've driven a topless flat fender a considerable distance in a rain storm. I can tell you that a wiper makes little difference. I spent more time wiping the inside of the windshield with my sleeve than the wiper did working on the outside of it. Oddly, the rest of me stayed surprisingly dry so long as I kept moving.
Anyways, a wiper will be all but useless to me except to pass the inspection. I really miss the days when as long as you left a 30-pack on the garage counter you where leaving with a valid inspection sticker. The condition of the vehicle was irrelevant. I don't have one of those guys anymore.
So today's task was rigging up a wiper. I tried using a spare Trico SF 616 vacuum I had laying around but couldn't get it to work - nor do I want to spend the money to repair or replace it.
Next up was one of those generic "universal" electric wiper motors. They are complete crap but for now it is operable. Here's how it went.
I wired a 10A fuse to the "ACC" terminal of the key switch. I used a bullet connector here so I can easily disconnect in the event I have to remove the windshield.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_105603_zps8ftm9bxu.jpg)
I snaked some rubber hose through the firewall and fished the positive wire through it and then through the hole in the side of the tub. Next, feed the positive wire through a length of steel brake line tubing. If you wait until after you bend the line it will be much more difficult (if not impossible) to feed your wire through it.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_110729_zpst0o2dcvy.jpg)
Next, bend the steel line to the proper shape. I used an original bent vacuum line to help get me started on the overall shape and then just jammed it into place. A new roll of masking tape makes a good tool for bending the line in nice even arcs. It can be removed for paint once it's all bent to shape. As you can see I still need to paint some of the hardware here too.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_131334_zps0lybmru5.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_131927_zps5ypxtihr.jpg)
I filed the sharp edges off the end of the steel line and slid a length of heat shrink over the end of the wire and into the tube for added protection against any chaffing. I got a little carried away grinding ground points around where the motor contacts the windshield frame. I'll touch that up with paint later.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_123856_zps4vm1z7pt.jpg)
Then I slid a piece of rubber hose over the end, added a connector and attached the wire to the motor.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_131919_zpso4rf3kn2.jpg)
So now inside and out the electric wire is concealed by a set-up similar to what you would see with any vacuum wiper.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_131328_zps5wocrd79.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150308_131944_zps5q7gclcx.jpg)
I have no hope that this wiper motor will even survive a rainstorm but as long as I can keep it dry until inspection time it should do the trick. I'm going to leave the passenger side alone. Worst case I'll install a hand wiper over there. At least I'd know that one will always work.
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Very clever way to give it "the look". I love it.
Tim
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I can't take credit for the idea as it's been done several times before (including Nate, I think). I just hadn't found any pics of it online.
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Very tidy job.� Why are you not registering it as an antique?� Insurance? Tell you what: If you can get that stickered after the way it was before it'll be quite an accomplishment.
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Why are you not registering it as an antique?�
I like to drive to work which often means parking on the street in downtown Bangor. It's an area heavily patrolled by the parking enforcement crew who dutifully issue tickets if you are in a 1-hour spot for a second more than 59 minutes. I routinely get tickets which is not a big deal but all the ticket guys know my vehicles.
Driving to work is a direct violation of the "Antique" registration affidavit they make you sign when you register. Hard to tell if it would ever be enforced but I don't like worrying about it. If I can get the M38 inspected then it's a non-issue.
I'd register the 3A as a regular passenger vehicle but then I couldn't legally display my snazzy 1952 plates - those really befuddle the ticket guys because they aren't in the system� ;D...but then they could easily have my Jeep towed and impounded for improper use....
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I can't take credit for the idea as it's been done several times before (including Nate, I think). I just hadn't found any pics of it online.
I didn't use steel tubing. I ran the wires in the cotton loom using the stock clamps. Looks great Ryan!
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/willyscjmj/1953%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/100_7034.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/willyscjmj/media/1953%20Willys%20CJ3A%20Jeep%20Restoration/100_7034.jpg.html)
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Nate - What do you have for wiper motor(s)? Seems there's only that one generic style available. Did you come up with anything more elaborate?
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Same ones as you have. They work ok for the very occasional time I get caught in the rain with Red. I have them on the Jalopy too, and they leave a lot to be desired in the snow and ice. They are a step up from the vacuum ones that Ted has.
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the M38 looks great!
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Ryan, You wouldn't want to make me a copy of that triangle piece of metal on the left side of your windshield frame would you?
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Ryan, You wouldn't want to make me a copy of that triangle piece of metal on the left side of your windshield frame would you?
What is that thing anyways??
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Rifle holder mounting bracket.
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I gave the M38 a fabricated identity today. It's passable but further reinforces the fact that I should not be allowed to touch paint.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150313_183110_zpsbqpxvvva.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150313_183242_zpssybxd5qr.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150313_195213_zpszemu3ezr.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150313_201825_zpszwspfm0u.jpg)
The hood came out really well. It was pretty much all downhill after this though.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150314_112503_zpsaihbdpjj.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150314_203417_zpsbmkdntui.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150313_203820_zpszbndfvl0.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150314_203427_zps3mu2c1nr.jpg)
This one is a complete mess. Looks like someone slopped fuel all over the place moments after the paint was applied.....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150314_203407_zpspbqibzwx.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150314_203441_zpsn4nze3xc.jpg)
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[quote
This one is a complete mess. Looks like someone slopped fuel all over the place moments after the paint was applied.....
[/quote]
Well, you said it was going to be a "beater Jeep", didn't you?
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Well, you said it was going to be a "beater Jeep", didn't you?
Yes. I may actually aim for a rock large enough to scrape that off.
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Just slop some gas on it and then try to wipe it off.....maybe give it a minute to soak in....then it will look very authentic.....
The jeep looks good......a few "decorations" always enhance the look....
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Great job! That has to be some kind of speed restoration record! I agree that its a fine line on trying to restore one that you wont shed a tear if it gets scratched up :)
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hey, if it were perfect, you'd probably worry about it all the time. I think it looks just fine.
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Pressed the M38 into a "real" work project today. A broken tree limb that has been precariously hanging over my road was finally put out of its misery today.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20150322_121622_zpsw30iwqle.jpg)
And then a little ride around the yard. Cabin Fever has taken a serious hold. I need to get out on the road!!
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXLUSI5gf7o&feature=youtu.be[/media]
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Time for a GoPro I'd say
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Time for a GoPro I'd say
or at least a suicide knob....
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that was kind of the way I felt the last time I drove one. it's a real workout on the arms.
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I received a set of pioneer tools from a popular vendor. The shovel fit great but the axe....not so much. Not sure where the problem lies. Could be the axe, the axe head bracket, or the tub itself. All three of those things have sufficient reason to be suspect.
(http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album445/1_G.jpg)
(http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album445/2_G.sized.jpg)
Since Bubba has already lent a hand several times here on this project I was too concerned about letting him take a crack at solving this problem.
I cut and then welded a bolt to each leg of the bracket to extend it out a bit. It isn't the prettiest but with a couple dabs of paint nobody will notice.
(http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album445/3_G.jpg)
(http://willysmjeeps.com/v2/modules/gallery/albums/album445/4_G.jpg)
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Ry Guy,
In anticipation of fitment issues, the reproduction ax bracket is sold with extra long legs. Once the ax is in, you slice off the extra length.
As you know, my indents are not factory, so I was facing the same issue. I was happy to have the long bracket legs. I look like I'm in a little more than you, but not by much...
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/AX%20handle%20fitment_zpsrhag2wcm.jpg)
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Interesting. My bracket is also a repop but for once a "correct" reproduction is not what I needed. I gladly would have used one with longer legs!
I was a little discouraged to actually have to mail order the axe and shovel too. I scoured hardware stores, antique shops, and various estate and yard sales all winter and could not find ones of the appropriate size. Walck's to the rescue yet again....
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Certainly is more fun bringing them home on a trailer than watching them get hauled away on one. The M38 on its way to its next chapter in life. It will be missed.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20151129_091713_zpsefgiltjg.jpg)
A final family photo
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1952%20M38%20SN%2056849/20151129_073457_zpswbycfxmm.jpg)
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Impressive site
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OOOH, SNAP!!!� You dog!!� I remember drooling over this the first time you spotted it.� Now you have a summer driver and a winter driver!� It's Karma...You're one of those good guys.� Good things happen to good folks!� Congratulations.
He gave it to you? Man!
The engine head is WWII or VEC 2A. The radiator might be also.� Have you found a serial # yet?� What is the block casting #?� What's the delivery date?
I'm jealous, but extremely happy for you.�
Tim
How did you know that the head was from WWII from the picture? If this is the same Ryan I bought some M38 parts from I have seen this Willys and it is/was beautiful.
Skip
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Without being able to see the casting number, A fairly quick way to tell the difference between a military (or older) head and a 2A, 3A, M38, DJ, etc. is to look for raised ribs between the head bolts. No ribs= military or older. Ribs= newer head.
This is my GPW with no ribs...
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/20121212002.jpg)
This is my 3A with ribs...
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/imagejpg8_zpsb13edb0a.jpg)
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Thanks for the lesson.
Skip
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Nice comparison photos Tim.
And Skip, yes it's me. Didn't realize that was you. Good to see you here. How about some pictures of your M38? I want to see where those parts ended up :)
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I have done a little work but mostly still gathering parts. I have sent the fenders and grill out and had them blasted and primed with red oxide and the tailgate and windshield frame will go out soon. I repaired the tailgate. I also bought a repo M38 tub, I just couldn't find one that I could justify spending the money on and still have to repair. I picked up a couple of 225's one running and one with a automatic transmission. I need the auto because of damage to my back from a helo crash I was in. Anyway I will start a thread latter and keep it updated.
Skip
By the way there seems to be a lot of Mainers on here.
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Anyway I will start a thread latter and keep it updated.
Yes please do. I'd love to see how much of a job it is to fit an M38 repro tub.