My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your CJ-3A Project => Topic started by: DaveW on July 31, 2018, 08:17:15 PM
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I've wanted a jeep for quite some time and after having a CJ7 last summer for a bit, I decided my next jeep was going to be a flat fender. This summer while casually browsing a few facebook groups this one popped up for sale in Indiana. I short road trip later and I was hauling it home.
While pretty ugly, the frame was in excellent shape, all the major mechanicals were there, it ran and stopped, and the body was pretty intact.
Some details
Serial No - 33287
Engine - 3J33691
Trans - T-90
t-case - Dana 18
Axles - Dana 41 rear / Dana 25 Front
PTO - Ramsey RHC
Winch - unknown
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-2.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-11.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-10.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-12.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-9.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-8.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-5.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-6.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/willys-jeep-cj3a-runs-drives-stops-w-pto-winch-clear-title-cj2a-cj3b-cj5-cj7-3.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/8A4BBCE0-2F92-42E4-8F6E-77D977E3996C.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/124211B4-BB1F-4A0B-ABD3-72D7DEF64A93.jpg)
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After getting it home the first order of business was taking it for spin around the neighborhood to see what major issues it had.
And of course, it left me for dead.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/72266937-C9A8-4492-9384-A4F9478EBF27.jpg)
After it died, I attempted to push start it and jump start it to no avail. I had to use the winch cable on the front to get towed the 3 blocks home.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/24F96710-4DF4-4283-889D-68C3EF568DFA.jpg)
After getting it back home I figured the start issues was related to the starter since the battery seemed to be fully charged. Turned out to be nothing wrong with the starter, just a bad solenoid (insulation was gone causing it to short) and a bad connection at the positive battery terminal.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2828EA8C-A2CB-44F8-A97F-4AD46BF9AB11.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A98B43A5-6016-430B-80F5-E289A8E2E338.jpg)
It was also very apparent after driving it that the transmission needed rebuilt because it kept popping out of second gear. So after sorting the starting issue, I started to disassemble everything to pull out the transmission.
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Looks like we are on the same road, at least it kinda runs!� What is your serial # and engine number? Same starter as mine. The �solenoid� is your foot, just has a lever to engage the gear and a switch for the motor.
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Looks like we are on the same road, at least it kinda runs!� What is your serial # and engine number?� Same starter as mine.� The �solenoid� is your foot, just has a lever to engage the gear and a switch for the motor.
Serial No - 33287
Engine - 3J33691
So it would be later in the '49 production year, but it does have an early frame judging by the radiator mounts on the front cross member which contradicts the information here - http://www.cj3a.info/cj3a/date3a.htm
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/8F484397-86D4-4882-A66A-ECAA7625EDDD.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1C8A26E0-0F1F-4205-83EC-6CF0B1A98D13.jpg)
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Yeah, I think the numbers went up to 37xxx in 49. Looks like you have the original engine, the numbers are pretty close. Looks like a good start on a project.
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Since the transmission needed rebuilt, I got to work getting it torn out. In retrospect I should have done a little more research prior, but I�ll go into that in more detail later.
First up was to drain the fluids. Surprisingly the axles and engine looked fine, but he transmission and transfer case were a different story.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2062E4A8-CBD6-4EA1-93D6-38EDCE7EF3A0.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6EB47203-4DFA-4A83-A1AA-B4535B328D4A.jpg)
Next was pulling the skid plate and driveshafts. There was tons of grime above the skid plate, so lots of scraping was involved to get at the four bolts.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/030E660A-91FB-4F8A-8D74-7A48936B52D0_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/EB06D023-6ABC-4DFD-BBAC-10321B7CDFAC_1.jpg)
At some point in its life the parking brake cable was cut or broke. So I�ll have to piece back together the parking brake system from the lever foward.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/BF62DD74-F9E1-48AF-B18A-CEAF5423ECB0_1.jpg)
The Jeep does have a pto winch, though I can�t identify the winch, it does have a Ramsey Pto, though it appears the rear section was broken at some point and they substituted a piece of angle iron to hold the two sprockets apart.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9991FA54-A311-46B3-92CD-E4FA07D7DDBD.jpg)
The speedometer cable is broken and explains why the speedometer doesn�t work.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2FC4368A-1DDF-42F2-BBB5-7823201CD5A9.jpg)
Hopefully I can find some parts to piece back together the pto into its correct configuration.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/4F900C0D-3030-47C7-895A-B2D864A2D445_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3945DFA8-C716-460F-8DED-66E4E55FA4E4.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0C742840-0FBD-48C4-8060-751EB58433F3_1.jpg)
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To further my previous comment about removing the transfer case, I should have read more about the process as I didn�t realize there was a nut that needed removed from the end of the main shaft in the transmission to pull the transfer case. So after a few hours of wrestling it, the mainshaft of the transmission case out with the transfer case. I will say that it was somewhat heavy to wrestle out myself, but I managed.
Other than being really caked in dirt and grease, the transfer case did seem to work and shift fine. I plan to put new seals, new shifters (Previous owner bubba�d all four shifters), and new bearings in it.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/744E619A-6453-44AB-A9DD-5308FB14EFDC.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/7B5EA278-F215-43B5-8D42-F9A021F83F9A.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C8905A64-6EF7-4385-8EEC-5BB2631EC09E.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5C4443E1-2F9B-4272-A2A3-80B328E8BF02.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/36A8A133-CDC9-4592-8E58-9D0D6930CB71_1.jpg)
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Another cool project to follow. Thanks for showing us.
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After tearing into the transfer case, all the gears looked pretty good.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0C4F0C40-5E88-491F-88F5-3BA74E1079FC_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/ABC51CB4-BC2B-40FE-9903-E03210A86FD2_1.jpg)
Ran all the parts through the parts washer to get it cleaned up prior to re-assembly.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3256DB85-F55E-4178-9DF3-724269196A34_1.jpg)
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It seems at some point in it's life, the PTO housing was broken and they scabbed together a piece of angle iron to hold the two sprockets apart. I'll hopefully be able to track down the parts to make it whole again.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9991FA54-A311-46B3-92CD-E4FA07D7DDBD.jpg)
While waiting for the parts for the transfer case and doing research on how to rebuild the transmission and correct the 2nd gear issue, I am trying to learn more about the PTO winch that's currently on it. I can't seem to find much info or markings on it though.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/4FAA24D4-18BD-4E56-8E35-45295F9EA911_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6D15018D-5720-4797-974D-DFB8228254FE.jpg)
I was also able to track down the correct Carter WO 636S for $35. It currently wears a Solex and electric fuel pump. So down the road, I'll get everything swapped back to the correct carb and glass top fuel pump.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2E56CBA9-BF90-42A8-BCE7-B2E9207EBE92_1.jpg)
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After the debacle with removing the transfer case, I was able to get the transmission tore out, torn apart, and inspected.
I knew I had a second gear issue, luckily Rick's video does an excellent job explaining explaining what are common wear items and how to identify what's wrong and how to fix it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwbhR0aFzIs
After getting everything inspected, I determined that my second gear was shot (loose on the shaft and worn teeth), the front and rear bearings were worn (pitting and play), and the pins on the shift forks were lose and needed replaced. With that said, I followed the recommendations of many and ordered the rebuild kit from Novak. While I waited for the kit to arrive, I start to get all the parts cleaned and ready to re-assemble.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/17BC8560-371B-4DAB-8D13-D6F31EC093C7_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/E91175E1-87FA-4A4D-8809-959367499576.jpg)
The main cluster, while worn, didn't cause much concern from what I've read, so it will be re-used.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3D36BC40-4A83-40B0-AC1F-96488C4F0358_1.jpg)
Second gear though, had a worn bushing and it came in the Novak kit, so it will be replaced.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B33B9027-92AE-4DAF-9684-FB34174E9F1F_1.jpg)
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While waiting on the parts to come in for the transmission and transfer case, I decided to look at the brakes since they didn't seem to be working that well. After closer inspection, the shoes looked newer, but needed adjusted judging by the wear pattern on them.
After a quick adjustment per the manual and bleeding, I felt they should be good.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2896ECAC-6997-48CF-BE58-70677A35B06A_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5F9B6302-0D45-4EC5-9310-76BF2DAC050F_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/FF80DF49-D0C5-4A91-ABE1-7AA734405064_1.jpg)
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The parking brake forward of the transfer case was missing everything. Luckily with the diagrams from Kaiser Willys, I was able to figure out what was missing and ordered, the handle, clips, and cable to get it working again.
At first, I was a little confused about this mystery bracket on the cross member, I thought at first it might have been a remnant of the parking brake system because at first glance the cross member seemed to be missing the second hole for the cable clip.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/94F437CC-13BB-4D2A-AAB1-B03A40A28F87_1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/01E4F070-34B5-4FEF-A60E-96B1354DC120_1.jpg)
After a couple minutes of scraping and wire brushing though, the second hole emerged from being filled with crud for the last 70 years.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9DB7285F-8EDB-4F12-8ED1-4B44B84204D5.jpg)
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Unfortunately I didn't take any assembly pictures, but the transfer case went together pretty smoothly. I installed new shifters (bubba got a hold of the old ones), new seals, new thrust bearings, and new needle bearings on the intermediate shaft. Otherwise everything looked in good shape and was reused.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/E1D89FB9-C117-488F-8DFC-92E33C56F570.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A8A4137F-4C2F-4EE8-BD54-AED6EE7DAD58.jpg)
Since the original bolts were safety wired and I had never done it before, I decided it would be fun to learn and do it.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2646D1F1-04C9-47FF-8BC1-E98E6A023812.jpg)
After talking this picture, I realized the center bolt wasn't done properly, so the wire was re-done.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0D76FA80-2836-4657-A722-3CA3CA3888CB.jpg)
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Here's an example of what someone did to all four shifters (trans, t-case, and PTO).
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/63CD513E-0D86-43C8-B0E0-E2FDCA179364.jpg)
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My rebuild kit came in from Novak. Surprisingly the hardest part was getting all the needle bearings in the main cluster. Thankfully I did have some pieces of bar stock laying around to help with the process.
A couple of notes on the Novak kit.
The Good
- The kit appeared to use mostly USA made parts
- Switches to a sealed style front bearing to cut down on leaks
- Comes with decent (could be better with pictures) instructions
The Bad
- Was missing some parts, though a quick email to Novak had new ones on the way
- The plugs for the top cover popped out on first use, so I ordered NOS ones to replace them
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/E2749720-F106-4ACD-A6D3-2E1D9EC80DB2.jpg)
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Before putting the transmission back in, I did pull off the bell housing and fly wheel to replace the pilot bushing because it was lose and shot.
In my haste to get everything back together, I made the mistake of forgetting to put in the clutch fork and only realized it after I got the transmission in, the transfer case in, and most of the linkage re-connected.
I tried everything I could think of to wiggle it into place without pulled everything back apart. In my efforts, I managed to drop the fork down in the bell housing. Even after fishing around with a magnet for an hour, I couldn't manage to get it back out, so everything how to come back apart. Luckily, after pulling the transfer case, I was able to slide the transmission back a few inches and get the fork out and installed correctly.
After a week long blitz to get it all back together, I finally got it done by about 6pm on Friday. After a few forward and reverses out of the garage, I heard some clunking. Turns out I forgot to fully tighten the rear driveshaft, so it came apart at the pinion. Since I was determined to take it to ice cream that night, I searched the garage floor with a magnet to find all the needle bearings, cleaned them and got it back together in about an hour.
At about 7pm, we drove a few blocks to the local burger stand that's been around since 1948. I was thrilled that almost everyone there came over and started asking lots of questions about the jeep.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B69C6F5E-E4B2-4F67-B499-B567AC7FC947.jpg)
This was the after math on my garage floor.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1343BDF7-878E-415B-8FF3-4B75D0E10D41.jpg)
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Now that it was running, Saturday was a little more putting around town. I drove to the local farmers market in the morning, then to the parts store to pick up a new cap, rotor, and condenser.
I was hoping to make it a few more blocks to the gas station, but I managed to run out of gas at the local Jeep dealership.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B6DD3A36-856A-4655-BB1B-E0C22312BCA9.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1067322C-904B-4433-86A0-3EBDD7EFA475.jpg)
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Sunday offered some new adventures. While driving around town to shake out any more bugs that the Jeep had in store, I learned a few things, the 9" drums still suck and how to drive without brakes. While cruising around town, both front wheel cylinders failed.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B8E18424-68F5-4FFD-9234-C68D08AF6E2E.jpg)
Thankfully I was able to very gingerly limp it home on back streets.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/AF499437-9DA8-4E0B-891B-FE99480EF9E2.jpg)
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LOL been there. Yeah fighting with my front wheel cylinders this afternoon. They were rusted and frozen solid. I was going to trash them, but since I HATE it when I can�t fix something I did manage to get them apart, cleaned up and honed bb smooth, ready for new seals. Only took about 5 hours[ch128540]
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I will offer a cautionary tale to Stony and Dave.� I tried to hone and rebuild my wheel cylinders.� The honing went quite well.� Purchased the rebuild kits from NAPA.� Within a few months I lost the first rebuilt wheel cylinder.� Replaced it with a new one.� Within a year, I lost the second rebuilt cylinder.� Replaced the remaining 3 with new cylinders.� I can't say whether rebuilt cylinders will fail or not.� Mine failed.� And it ruined the paint on my wheels.� In 7 years, I haven't lost any of the replacement cylinders.
Edit: I wish I had a cool old ice cream stand in my area. Looks like you had a lot of fun.
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I will offer a cautionary tale to Stony and Dave.� I tried to hone and rebuild my wheel cylinders.� The honing went quite well.� Purchased the rebuild kits from NAPA.� Within a few months I lost the first rebuilt wheel cylinder.� Replaced it with a new one.� Within a year, I lost the second rebuilt cylinder.� Replaced the remaining 3 with new cylinders.� I can't say whether rebuilt cylinders will fail or not.� Mine failed.� And it ruined the paint on my wheels.� In 7 years, I haven't lost any of the replacement cylinders.
Edit:� I wish I had a cool old ice cream stand in my area.� Looks like you had a lot of fun.
Thanks for the heads up. Since the brakes went out, it pains me to put money into the anemic 9", so I'm thinking it might be time to just update them and be done with it.
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It's great to see your ol' Jeep tooling around town. I wish I could have enjoyed mine this way (loads of patina) but it was too far gone to be safe.
Enjoy it and the attention from folks who've never seen an old flatfender!
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I will offer a cautionary tale to Stony and Dave.� I tried to hone and rebuild my wheel cylinders.� The honing went quite well.� Purchased the rebuild kits from NAPA.� Within a few months I lost the first rebuilt wheel cylinder.� Replaced it with a new one.� Within a year, I lost the second rebuilt cylinder.�
Thanks I will keep that in mind, still think I�ll try rebuilding them. The master cylinder however is aluminum aftermarket, so that is going to need to be replaced.
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After some diliberation on what to do about the brakes, I decided to swap to Geo Tracker/ Suzuki Sidekick brakes using brackets from Brennan Metcalf.
The reason I chose this route from other options came down to price and not having to modify the existing axles or knuckles. I had lots of questions for Brennan and the conversion, some of which he was able to answer and some he wasn't. My engineering brain wanted a certain level of detail and knowing what I'm getting myself into with the swap, but it looks like there will be some ambiguity with the soft lines and how the connect to the calipers and hard lines as well as what style of wheels actually work with the conversion.
These are the style of 15" wheel I have on the Jeep currently that appear to have come off a later 70s CJ. There is some conflicting information out there, some say they will work, other say they won't. For my sake, I hope they do, because I don't want to have to buy a whole other set of wheels and tires.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C32F86A8-0B3A-4B8D-89AA-8DBA6E971391.jpg)
Some details on the swap and the parts used.
Calipers, rotors, and pads come from and early to mid 90s 2 door (four door uses different parts) Geo Tracker or Suzuki Side Kick.
The soft brake lines I've heard can come from a variety of sources, but it seems that front soft lines off of a early to mid 90s Chevy S10 work the best. I wanted to keep the brake system as stock as possible and use as much as I could of what was there.
The brackets and spacers come from Brennan Metcalf.
In total, I have about $450 into the swap which is peanuts compared to some of the other kits that are out there.
While I waited for the parts and brackets to come in, I got busy stripping down the wheel ends to accept the conversion.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/7F0EE63D-19ED-4580-8CCD-9CA552453C00.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/8D56745E-0E57-4439-84D6-C2E2AF7859D5.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/E5D0F7DB-4A35-405F-A46B-31FB24095E31.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/D2C95A07-5224-4F08-A2B9-0793C3E87904.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3D237E37-804D-4AC4-8691-4931BF5B5A20.jpg)
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In the mean time, I have a few smaller projects to take care of.
First is removing this bypass line.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/31E987C4-0B2D-4A9F-905B-2B228A8A6BCB.jpg)
The other quick hitter was getting a working temp gauge installed.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/EFC43D98-BB3E-403B-9C44-A73D8CFB0F3F.jpg)
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As I progress through the disk brake install, I'll try to give some feedback and reasoning to parts and methods I used.
Parts list:
Brackets and spacers - from Brennan Metcalf
Calipers - BECK/ARNLEY 0770705S / 0770706S (you'll need rights and lefts)
rotors - DURAGO BR3222
pads - CENTRIC 30104180
studs - RAYBESTOS 0528B
hoses - CENTRIC 15066055
Caliper bolts - M12-1.25x30mm and washers (I might swap these out for flange bolts later on)
Calipers, rotors, pads are off a 1995 Suzuki Sidekick 2 door (four door uses different parts)
Hoses are off a 1995 Chevy S10 Front 2wd
studs - no idea, just search the PN
There are a few options out there for studs, the reason I chose the ones I did because they have a shorter knurled section than the factory studs (factory studs have to go through the hub AND the drum).
Likewise for the brake hoses. There are a few options and lengths out there, some people even seem to opt for having customer hoses made. I prefer to use off the shelf parts for ease of replacement. The banjo end of the hose will bolt directly to the caliper (the calipers I bought came with a 10mm banjo bolt, copper washers, brackets, and clips to retain the pads). I did use the same S10 brake hose on all four corners.
The bracket installation is pretty straight forward. I clocked mine as show for ease of routing the brake hoses, but more on that later. The spindle bolts between the bracket and the knuckle. The bolts in my knuckle were long enough to get more than a few turns of engagement. If you're don't get at least three threads of engagement, get longer bolts.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/BE6AF613-0F21-46FF-A1F4-B8EFB4C0AB78.jpg)
The rear brackets mount much the same way. I also chose to clock mine toward the rear because the hard brake lines on my rear axle were on the back side of the axle. With these, you need to position the shims, bearing retainer, then the bracket, then outer oil seal last. If you don't do it in this order, you will have alignment issues.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1B9D8F05-80B2-481D-BF84-72F4A626646E.jpg)
I didn't take any pictures of pressing the studs out of the drums and rotors. The fronts were fairly easy with a hydraulic press. The rears were a different story because of bring crimped/swaged. I ended up mounting the rears in my milling machine to cut the heads off the studs and pounding them out with a sledge hammer. Word to the wise, wear ear muffs as it gets loud banging on them.
This is how the bracket and spacer get oriented. The caliper mount bracket goes outboard of all that. It's important to note that when installing and orienting the calipers, that the bleeder needs to be the highest point on the caliper, otherwise it will be darn near impossible to bleed.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C6C4B95E-933E-43B4-83F2-82F9F6BBD224.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3F3689FB-4982-44F2-9CEB-FA458DC097B1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/DCAA6659-BBC9-4D9E-8716-679FE2CA09EA.jpg)
With the brake hose installed, you can visualize how I intended to connect my hard lines. I'll make a little bracket that attaches to the axle between the u-bolts so it's out of the way. Really the only modification that needs to be made to the re-used portion of the existing brake system is right here at the hard line on the rear axle. The hard line needs to be shortened and re-flared. That's it.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/68324546-FA2C-4363-BC28-FE2B466C81A2.jpg)
The fronts go together in a similar manner.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/8CB2DF62-2763-41F6-B47C-4B79A0EC7353.jpg)
This shot highlights why I chose to use the S10 lines. It has plenty of length to use the existing bracket AND will mate to the factory hard line.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/696E6901-1E77-4F1B-98AD-D693203E31F1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/266A69B7-E88D-440A-8217-D3B22CE7B33D.jpg)
I did opt to order new lug nuts since I was replacing all the studs and mine were a horrible mix of right and left hand thread and different size hex's. One quick note on installing new studs. There are other stud recommendations out there, but the ones I referenced above seem to be the best because they have a shorter knurl on them. If you don't opt to use new studs with the shorter knurl, you will have to drill out the back side of the rotor line Gunslinger had to do in his thread - http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Ayabb26/YaBB.pl?num=1523122427/2
(http://www.cj3apage.com/3Ayabbfiles26/Attachments/DSC_0090.JPG)
The final step was putting it all together.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A54FBC74-159F-418B-86A6-D89F20A33899.jpg)
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Turns out I hit the 5500 character limit on that last post, so part 2.....
The one other point of confusion with this whole upgrade was what wheels would actually fit. If you remember back to the 15" later CJ wheels I had, there was mixed messages over what would fit and what wouldn't. Well it turns out they didn't fit. They didn't clear the calipers and hit right where the inner sections mates with the outer.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/4811F551-490F-4311-923E-396DEBD661BC.jpg)
I managed to find a set of wheels local to me. Unfortunately I didn't inspect them close enough before getting home because I soon learned that out of four wheels, I had three different styles, but it ended up being a mixed blessing because I can now share what wheels do and don't work.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2618BC19-2765-448B-A7E3-94743793CAC2.jpg)
These are early style 16" Kelsey Hayes wheels. Please note the flat lug nut flange area. These wheels WILL WORK.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/56624A71-2F67-472F-B055-FF73DEDE8AA8.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/DD3ADFDA-49CA-438E-8B90-0FECB1969AC6.jpg)
These are later style 16" Kelsey Hayes wheels. Please note the flat lug nut flange area and the step in the spoke. These wheels WILL WORK.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0E8C0F4B-FE84-4717-9AE3-7F998C37F600.jpg)
The third style I had was a 16" MotorWheel. Note the bumps in the lug nut area and the lug nut flange is distinctly different. These wheels WILL NOT WORK.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/F2CE4572-4339-46DE-85D8-9F20DC18B1E1.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1077FF41-C15F-4763-BFBA-B90A62C1D8DC.jpg)
So now came the challenge of finding a complete set of 5 wheels AND having to buy new tires.
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While searching for some wheels, I did a bit more work on the brake system and ordered some new hoses and tees.
When they arrived I didn't think the tee was quite right because of the flare within the top port of the tee. After a call to Ron Fitzpatrick, I was assured that they were correct and a copper washer was used to seal the connection.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/626324FF-D655-410B-BBE6-C0121E13E772.jpg)
In my opinion this should be a flared connection on the tee to match the flared connection on the hose.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/21A4DE67-8907-4559-8AEF-234AF06141F0.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C93B5C4C-69A2-4C08-9D41-2284173F3A82.jpg)
Similar to what is on the sides.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/E62D456F-AB29-4979-B2B3-1EFF9FD5E714.jpg)
End of the hose that goes to the hardline at the frame.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/DB9B9789-34E8-44D7-9A25-649A242940DB.jpg)
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Took receipt of a few winch parts. An original roller fairlead, a pto case to configure mine correctly and a Ramsey 246R. A 200R would have been more correct, but I got a fair deal on this, though it needs minor repairs. I have a machine shop, so the repairs are easy enough.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/85BEB450-D284-4BF3-A711-B3A182F4EF37.jpg)
Part of the PTO case to change my pto into a PT1-J. The plug is stuck in there and will need drilled out.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/48AF1B6F-4926-4721-B5D6-1985BE81C282.jpg)
Other repairs needed to the case. I think with a copper backing plate and some 4043 filler rod, I can get it repaired with a TIG welder.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9BF50EBC-5CF7-4126-93D3-8758C93DDE66.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/4BA32AC7-07F5-4C82-B6EC-618804F223B3.jpg)
Fairlead.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0CBF153F-CA0B-478B-8588-4F9FD052B77F.jpg)
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New brake lines came for the front and rear axle. They took some minor adjustment to fit, but overall seem pretty great.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/4D30DE3F-9748-4219-9925-455D23F5B600.jpg)
I was also able to find a intact shift cane for the T-90, but I did have to thread the end of it. I also found a cream colored shift knob with the correct pattern on top. I think I'm going to paint the jeep maroon eventually, so the cream will be a nice accent.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/ED7B8884-C7B1-4F46-98B5-5C4ACEC427EA.jpg)
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I had a little time to start the repairs on the pto case. The first thing was to remove the plug. I drilled out the existing plug and had the correct size NPT tap to chase the threads.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B4C37908-1478-4E3B-87BC-05CD3A2C573B.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/88B361E1-C23F-486B-81CE-EFAE883AA462.jpg)
Kept stepping up the size.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3E5BBCDA-4B24-4E1D-AF23-F59A7BC366BF.jpg)
Then used a cold chisel to hammer and fold it in on itself.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/FC2AE6BC-0195-46E4-895D-33FCF3B61EE0.jpg)
Finally came out.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/65146185-D246-4A37-BBA3-00479C986B2E.jpg)
Also pressed out all the old bearings and seals.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/526EAF92-1C49-46BD-98C9-E1E201A7BB6B.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/98D4BD2E-8A9A-4892-991F-9FF7275167C2.jpg)
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The new hard lines on the rear axle caused me to adjust my approach to mounting the calipers. I initally had them clocked to the rear because that's where the existing brake lines were. The replacements put the lines on the front of the axles, so I rotated the mounting brackets toward the front and swapped the calipers side to side (to keep the bleeder pointing up). I'll need to cut and flare the rear lines to connect to the hoses.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6F374F6A-CFFD-4DC6-BDF5-82CECE22019F.jpg)
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When the jeep was still driving, I had a few episodes of death wobble. Upon further inspection, there was lots of slop in the bell crank and drag link.
The bell crank was easily remedied with a rebuild kit, but the drag link surprisingly was more of a challenge. I ordered a rebuild kit for it, but noticed that a handful of the parts were dimensionally different. I only noticed after trying to reassemble it with all the new parts and couldn't get the caps to tighten enough to put the cotter pins in. After taking it all back apart, I noticed that all the parts differences and decided to reassemble it using the old parts and new springs (old ones were broken) and dust covers. It all seemed to go together and greatly tighten up the steering.
It might still need to have the steering box rebuild, but these two things have solved 90% of the play in the steering.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6DA6F829-AD70-4AFB-845F-CD80ACF47187.jpg)
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I found someone down in Illinois that had a set of wheels along with a handful of other things I was looking for. He also had a DP-1, dual output pto, but it was in unknown condition and sort of spun.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1531E3E5-E5C1-4DE9-802F-745B178433BA.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/68CF704D-A098-4602-9175-807A9C8BC93F.jpg)
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After an hour or two, I got the new PTO apart and could tell why. It looked like the bottom of the case sat for some time with water in it. The chain, bearings, and sprocket were trash. I think I'll be able to source new bearings and seals, but might have to make a new shaft.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/46B72BFD-EDE8-4986-9B21-8E82EFBC0E3C.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/606B21DF-8E10-49BD-B24C-4DEA31FEA609.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A9BBBBE2-5E4E-4EC9-980D-F6D3D4EFD309.jpg)
Put a litte Evap-a-rust on the bearing to help get it out of the case.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6D0A2BBE-8BE5-43DC-9E81-7E948FA32B4C.jpg)
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I got a pretty good deal from Summit Racing on some 6.50x16 STA Super Traxion tires with free shipping, and $110 in rebates. I considered going with NDT's but thought these looked better and likely road better.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/512E2A81-4216-4FA9-B703-64D1A1CDFEF4.jpg)
Got wheels blasted and powder coated locally.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C6A28145-17D5-4F08-9CB8-BCEDC1CADD96.jpg)
They didn't come out the greatest, but they were way better than what I started with, they were cheap to have done, and they would do until I found a better set of wheels.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2AB8AD0B-149E-4079-8522-F35EB0FA11AC.jpg)
Local tire shop was able to get them mounted with tubes and flaps. I chose to use flaps because the rims were a bit rough on the inside and I didn't want them to rub through the tubes.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/D5183775-E8BB-4789-B651-5A314ED4D524.jpg)
They look pretty good mounted up. Now I just have to finish up my punch list to get this heap back on the road.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/8C5DF6DD-4FEC-4F06-A009-B660D5F5996E.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/784FBBD4-4FDF-4BD1-99EC-51BD6ED6E5A1.jpg)
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Awesome progress, Dave! Those drag links do seem to be a bit of a mystery. I also used a combination of the new and old parts to build mine so that they were "just right". I also had the death wobble and tightening up the linkage as you did solved the issues. I did take it a step further and installed a stabilizer in the mix and haven't regretted it for a minute. By absorbing the road shocks to the whole steering contraption, I think it will lessen the wear on it. Going on ten years now and not a bit of unusual play in the steering.
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Man, you are "cookin with gas"!
Same trouble with the drag link...used a combo of new and old parts as well...
I went round and round between NDCC's and Traxion's...finally got the NDCC's....I like the look of both....:)
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Yeah the bearings and seals should be standard stuff, bet you can match the sprocket with ag parts. If the shaft is pitted or grooved under the seals, a Speedi Sleeve could fix that. Looks like it is coming along fine. Those tires are the ones that I am planning to get. They look great!
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Yeah the bearings and seals should be standard stuff, bet you can match the sprocket with ag parts. If the shaft is pitted or grooved under the seals, a Speedi Sleeve could fix that. Looks like it is coming along fine. Those tires are the ones that I am planning to get. They look great!
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Awesome progress, Dave!� Those drag links do seem to be a bit of a mystery.� I also used a combination of the new and old parts to build mine so that they were "just right".� I also had the death wobble and tightening up the linkage as you did solved the issues.� I did take it a step further and installed a stabilizer in the mix and haven't regretted it for a minute.� By absorbing the road shocks to the whole steering contraption, I think it will lessen the wear on it.� Going on ten years now and not a bit of unusual play in the steering.
Thanks! I�m very fortunate to have a generous amount of free time to tinker in the garage.
It�s good to know hat others have issues with the drag link kits. I did save all the old parts , so I might have to tinker with it some more after getting a few miles on it. I do know that before fixing that and he bell crank there was a good quarter turn of the steering wheel in the system, so it was a handful to keep going in a straight line. Now I�m down to maybe 1/16 of a turn in play, so hopefully I can get that adjusted out with the steering box, though it does seem like the steering get very tight as you move away from it being centered. I can live with that for now.
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Yeah the bearings and seals should be standard stuff, bet you can match the sprocket with ag parts.� If the shaft is pitted or grooved under the seals, a Speedi Sleeve could fix that.� Looks like it is coming along fine.� Those tires are the ones that I am planning to get.� They look great!
I have all the bearings on the bench, just have to take some time to measure them and search for replacements. I do need to read up on chain sizing and styles. That�s one thing that�s foreign to me, but I�m sure I can come up with something that will work. Judging by the three or four master links in the chain, it has been broke a handful of times.
As for the shaft, I�m fortunate enough to have a modest machine shop at my house, so I�ll likely make a new shaft from 4140 or comparable bar stock.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0D5A3760-21B4-4F71-9DD2-8DA0F7126522.jpg)
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If steering is tight off-center, it sounds like you may be a good candidate for a Tightsteer. Kind of pricey but they work pretty well and may help this condition.
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Finally got the jeep back together tonight with the new wheels and tires. Buttoned up a few loose ends and took it for a spin. I must say that the disk brake conversion was definitely worth all the trial and error. The stopping distance is drastically shorter, no pulling to the left, and a definite amount of confidence knowing your actually going to be able to stop.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A090B10C-2E15-4669-BEF4-D2890A9F3B35.jpg)
I did however noticed a spike in the temp gauge. Luckily I caught it as soon as it happened. I parked it for a bit to let it cool off then took a short trip to the store to top of the anti-freeze which was low.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/27E0F70F-EB6B-4610-9C29-4563E9176167.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/75ED9943-4BE0-4830-ABA6-94AAC67B83D6.jpg)
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The Jeep looks knarly. I love it.
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The Jeep looks knarly. I love it.
I agree! 8-)
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Chain is pretty easy, standard pitches and link lengths, master links and half links to give you the correct length.� Just take a sample over to your nearest Tractor Supply ( or ag equipment dealer, New Holland, John Deere etc) and match it up.� She�s looking great.� I don�t see any need for paint LOL!
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I've been having intermitent charging issues. When I drove it last night I noticed that even when on the throttle, I was only getting ~12.3v at the battery, but it did seem to run and drive fine and didn't have problems re-starting.
Usually the battery will go dead overnight, but surprisingly it was fine this morning so I decided to take it to work. Mid-morning a co-worker (fellow jeep guy) wanted to go for a ride, again it started no problem. But a few hours later, when I went to leave for lunch it was dead. No juice at the battery what so ever. Not even enough to run the electric fuel pump. So I got one of my co-workers to give me a push start to get it going and drove it the couple blocks back to my house.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9B186BC2-CD6B-47DC-9C36-7870E810C9B8.jpg)
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I think my electrical problem is two fold. First, I don�t think my alternator is charging. With it running again today, it maxes out at slightly over 12v
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/F6D9A76A-70A8-4AF7-A570-BE2F08331410.jpg)
The second thing is even with the key off, there is still something drawing current from the battery. Possibly even the key switch is bad. The battery drops in voltage relatively quicker
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9A69CF15-1EDA-4318-8207-4A21E95869CF.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B1BAC29F-FB8C-4905-9E75-B0AE1EDB0995.jpg)
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You need to find out where and how much your battery drain is. Put your voltmeter on amps function, 10 amps if you have it. Remove the negative battery cable and then the positive. Put the meter in series with the battery positive and the battery cable Red on the pos battery terminal black on the cable. Reattach the negative cable. See how much you are drawing. Then you can go through the wiring, and disconnect wires to see where the short is. Once you find the wire or group of wires that is giving you the problem you can further isolate the problem using the same method. From what you say you may have a problem in a wiring harness or connection where you have a corroded wire shorting to ground. Since you do not have smoke it is not a direct short.
p.s. ALWAYS remove the NEGATIVE cable before reattaching or removing the positive cable.
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It was an eventful weekend.
Friday night we went for a cruise through the park to see the lake.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/32DACC37-3C49-4C2C-8712-568BC185F00F.jpg)
Saturday since it started no problem, I decided to cruise over to the local car show. I wasn�t sure it would restart, so I packed jumper cables just in case. Quite a few people stopped by to take a look at it. Lots of story�s from guys about how they used to bomb around their family farm growing up in an old Jeep. As luck would have it, my battery drain issue popped up. Thankfully a few guys gave me a push and it fired right up with a bump start.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5B00F866-D7E8-4474-8534-ACDACAE9E102.jpg)
With the constant having to worried about the battery dying, I decided to order a simple Dorman universal ignition switch. I got new ring terminals crimped and heat shrunk on the wires and the switch installed this morning and it seemed to solve the problem. Initially I installed the alternator wire on the ignition terminal on the switch. Turns out after it started, that will keep the ignition wire hot even if you turn the key off by back feeding through the alternator. After taking a second look, I moved the alternator wire over to the accessory terminal and it worked correctly and would now kill the ignition in the key off position. After getting it all wired up, I was now getting +13v at idle at the battery. So a combination of half broken ring terminals and a faulty switch seemed to have been my problem. I took a short run around town to get some coffee and cruise around and it restart every time without issue. I�ll have to let it sit until tomorrow and see if it starts and the battery drain issue is fully resolved.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1313B669-0D07-48AB-8CE8-92825F531A25.jpg)
Another thing I noticed was that after the Jeep gets warm, the oil pressure is pretty low. I have no idea what the history of the engine is or if it�s been rebuilt, but judging by the oil pressure (20-40 when cold vs 3-20) when warm while using 20W-50, it might be approaching time for a rebuild.
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I�ve spent the past few days bombing around town and driving the Jeep as much as possible primarily because this thing is So damn much fun to drive and secondly to see what other reliably issues might be hiding. I did notice the steering is still a little loose and is much harder to turn left than right, but does seem to be loosening up. I�ll have to take a closer look at the guts of the steering box next time I have the fender off.
I filled it with gas on Sunday and didn�t think I�d be anywhere near going through a full tank of gas, but I was quite wrong. Managed to run out of gas last night (gas gauge doesn�t work) thankfully I was able to limp it a few blocks closer to the gas station and even more thankful that a buddy gave me a gas can over the weekend when I stopped in to help him with some welding.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/035C907C-766F-46AD-A77A-883B6DE6BB43.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/D3ECD4C9-3D1B-4562-B245-CD77A6E9B71E.jpg)
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They have GREEN nozzles for gasoline where you live??
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They have GREEN nozzles for gasoline where you live??
It was a BP station. I think maybe just the premium (ethanol free) nozzles are green, though I could be wrong.
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They have GREEN nozzles for gasoline where you live??
It was a BP station. I think maybe just the premium (ethanol free) nozzles are green, though I could be wrong.
I was in Ecuador a long time ago and we had rented a Trooper for the week. Time came to fill it up and I made two critical mistakes: 1) Their diesel pumps are not clearly marked, and 2) the pumps are not 'self serve'. A guy rambles out of the station booth in a ski mask and carrying an AK57 across his chest. Scared the crap out of me! I'm sure he had the last laugh though knowing that I had just put diesel in a gas Trooper. The Trooper died about 2 blocks away and we hoofed it for the rest of the trip.
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I do think after driving the last few days, my alternator has crapped out. Through the rpm range, it tops out at 12.5v at the battery. With the lights on, it drops to 11.5v. I ordered a rebuild kit off ebay that should be here early next week.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/s-l1600.jpg)
I had a few extra minutes this afternoon and got my jerry can mounted to my tailgate.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/FF69AFDE-56F1-46A9-ABD7-37DAF4A1A8D0.jpg)
My new undertaking is going to be rejuvenating the fuel system. Currently it has a Solex carb and an electronic fuel pump. I'd like to:
[list bull-blackball]- Rebuild and install an original Carter WO
Add a Carter fuel filter
Install a glass top fuel pump
New fuel lines[/list]
I did pick up a correct Carter WO 636S which would be correct for the '49 model year. I snagged it a few weeks ago for $35. My plan was to fully rebuild and adjust it. As you can see it was pretty cruddy when I got it.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2E56CBA9-BF90-42A8-BCE7-B2E9207EBE92.jpg)
After a few minutes with the soda blaster this evening, it cleaned up pretty well and I don't think I'm going to freshen it up cosmetically because it doesn't look half bad.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/DF0F7C91-45CE-49FF-BCD3-6B32B88C2B5D.jpg)
To add to the new fuel pump and carb, I wanted to find some sort of fuel filter to avoid lots of trash making it to the carb. After some searching, I thought this old style of Carter with the ceramic filter was kind of neat. I found one on ebay that listed and appears to be un-used aside from a little shelf wear and paid about $40 for it. When I went to take it apart, the gasket crumbled, so I'll have to order some gasket material to make a new one.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3E8B6FF2-A82D-4BB7-8E4E-DA1CD182F490.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/308F8F5F-8080-464E-8B3A-C032DF41DF51.jpg)
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The Jeep heap seems to be running into some more issues this week. Last weekend I run a can of seafoam through the carb and periodically when warm it seems to die. I haven�t torn into it much, but I speculate it�s something in the fuel system (about to get completely overhauled), the coil, of the condenser. When it dies, it usually fires back up with a little more cranking than usual and dies above idle.
Thankfully it died a block from the office on my way back from lunch
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/57F81924-06ED-4CDB-83DD-CB4810A7426E.jpg)
Aside from that, the cloudy speedometer has been bothering me, so I cleaned the glass this weekend.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/30851A35-5D46-420F-81F6-9A2C00CA4212.jpg)
It was pretty easy to uncrimp the bezel and get it taken apart.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1FC38CB7-7539-4FBC-8A7A-0D2DCA4B788A.jpg)
As you can see, the glass was pretty dirty. I tried to carefully clean the dial, but it didn�t seem to make much difference.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5634F127-DADD-49BD-98A1-3D40F20E27C6.jpg)
My running issue seems very sporadic, so I drove it around a bit more yesterday and it didn�t want to idle too well. Thankfully the last few brackets and springs needed to swap the Carter back in should arrrive this week.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5D8E32F0-3698-4CBF-A5D2-6A9F264AF369.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B712C3D9-37E8-4457-8C0F-BE22A5F6B75E.jpg)
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Dave, when you did the brakes, did you use the stock master cylinder?
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Dave, when you did the brakes, did you use the stock master cylinder?
Yessir. Everything is stock from the pedal to ends of the hardlines on the axles.
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It's been a while since I posted an update. Been pretty busy with some other projects, but I do have a few updates.
Managed to get everything switched over to the Carter WO that I rebuild. It took a trip or two to the hardware store to find all the proper length screws for the idle stop and clamp for the hand throttle.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/68FB13E7-4BD2-4FB6-891F-C55F641A8E46.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5FFB4B43-9557-43EF-B6C1-5CBC3663411B.jpg)
After getting it install, there were a few teething issues getting it adjusted via the vacuum method. I was getting a very sporadic flicker to the vacuum gauge (seems I need to replace the valve guides), so I wasn't able to get a super accurate timing setting.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5143A87E-0D9E-4C3B-A956-4F5C4C16CD4C.jpg)
Picture from cruising around on Labor day weekend. Someone saw the picture on one of the Facebook groups I'm a member of and made this awesome sketch of my Jeep.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/AF7B7C71-D3D4-43E5-AD80-F9C04FA1B190.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/F0EB0D9A-87DA-40C1-A093-8CA5138F9CFE.jpg)
I also found a bug shield to match the patina of the rest of the jeep.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5558CB04-DBBE-457B-9051-6FD269764107.jpg)
I also ordered the rest of the bearings, seals, and chain for the DP-1 PTO, so I'll be soon to rebuild it once the last output seal for the companion flange gets here.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/138C0CC9-1E6A-4D8D-A777-9FA9CCBD99D9.jpg)
After driving the last few times, I noticed the temperature would climb. Turned out to be low on antifreeze again, well this time after I topped it off, the next morning there was a huge puddle on the garage floor, so I figured it was time to rebuild the water pump. My housing didn't take too kindly to pressing out the shaft. I'll have to be on the look out for a replacement housing with the same casting number and date markings for originality sake.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/79FD384D-A3E0-4470-BA8D-60EE5FDCCB0E.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C97300E7-3F3D-4781-8CF8-67374CE41165.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/18610096-43F7-490E-B4AF-0C88108C99AD.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6F3BC357-DF95-4E58-9F81-9F31349B9354.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/17FB9191-5407-49A4-AB7A-F1ECA1996729.jpg)
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Hey! That water pump looks just like mine when I got through with it ;)
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Hey!� That water pump looks just like mine when I got through with it ;)�
I'll be a bit more careful on the next one.
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Yesterday I tore into the mess that was the Ramsey DP-1 PTO that I picked up for $75. I thought it was worth the gamble to try to save.
As you can see, when I got it, it was pretty rough and didn't want to come apart too easily.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/46B72BFD-EDE8-4986-9B21-8E82EFBC0E3C_1.jpg)
The reason that it was so hard to get apart was the bottom shaft being frozen in the bearings and the bearings being stuck in the case.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/FBBA25CB-8797-4ED3-82EA-FBA8DC6C5799_1.jpg)
As you can see, the chain has seen better days. I counted four master links holding the pieces together.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/13773638-66CA-41DA-827F-8E3E078F03BD.jpg)
The poppet balls and springs for the shift forks were toast.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9EFD77A5-61A9-4A77-8373-1D92E9FE7E9F.jpg)
All the seals were toast.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C0AF16BA-F78B-49D1-96C9-77392209853F.jpg)
Some of the bearings did turn, but had tons of slop in them.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/78593CC3-9DED-4395-92D6-FE9E655F7D96_1.jpg)
I got everything cleaned up and inspected to determine what needed replaced. All the main components seemed serviceable aside from some minor pitting on the bottom sprocket.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/138C0CC9-1E6A-4D8D-A777-9FA9CCBD99D9.jpg)
I ordered new seals, bearings, and #51 chain.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5134A825-0202-4B81-954F-09944720C207.jpg)
Here you can see the front output shaft. I cleaned up the surface of the shaft in the lathe to minimize the groove worn into it from the oil seal. I got a few different seals, so I'll have to find the right wiper combination to get it sealed up.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C8545CA1-0A06-4E45-98B1-7CC619DC2EDE.jpg)
The top end went together fairly easily with the input shaft, bearings, shift forks, and output shaft.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1C3031E4-C1DC-423B-A690-1B93EFB769F9.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6AF73B92-2D68-47D9-BA53-E2A9501896CD.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2D10D77C-8A19-4E18-804A-5A9C4A644959_1.jpg)
I did order 3' of #51 chain to have a little extra. I ended up shortening it by nine links to get the right fit. I still might trim one more link out of it and use a half link instead of a master link. Currently there's a little bit of play in the chain and I'm worried it might be too much and eat up the inside of the case.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/BF9962A1-E528-4708-A93E-F49B94B9293B.jpg)
Now I just need to find the right companion flange to get the rear output situated. I'm guessing that it's common with the other rear output only type PTO's.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/FDF20E98-8565-4E06-A1C8-89C5CC271410.jpg)
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Pictures do not come in on my computer. Good you can save this winch.
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I see the photos here. Nice work.
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Roberto drew your jeep.. man that's awesome!
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Roberto drew your jeep.. man that's awesome!
I thought it was pretty cool myself.
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Well I�m at a bit of a dilemma. I was doing some thinking over the weekend and am not sure whether I want to use my single stick or twin stick pto.
I don�t have plans to really ever mount anything to the rear of the Jeep, so it�s almost pointless to use the twin stick. So I think I might have to rebuild my single stick and possible trade off the twin stick for an overdrive.
My Jeep only gets driven around town, so I�m thinking the overdrive would be way more beneficial than the twin stick. Haven�t made up my mind yet, just thinking out loud for now.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/73946674-820A-44B1-89FC-FF12D6DDE013_1.jpg)
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I'd keep the twin stick just for the coolness factor and I'd add the OD too. That's be six shifters, defiantly anti-theft.
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While I wait on a replacement water pump to arrive. I decided to get my existing PTO tore out this evening.
After tearing it apart, it looks like I'm actually not missing too many pieces. My plan is to get a seal, bearing, and shifter kit from Herm, get the lower sprocket from the local tractor supply place, and machine a new lower shaft. I don't think it'll be too hard and it'll give me something to do this winter.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/3404CDFC-2ADB-4FBD-95CA-1F54FC52D9E6.jpg)
Someone on the 2a page just happened to post a picture of theirs tore apart the other day, so I sent them a message to hopefully get a few measurements off the lower output shaft and figure out how to get or make the rest of the parts circled.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/PTO%20Parts.jpg)
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Work progressed some more today on getting the old winch setup yanked out to make room for my Ramsey 245R winch and DP-1 PTO. With some minor cutting with a cutoff wheel the winch came out. Surprisingly all the set screws on the driveshaft joints came out without issue.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/F543CE49-BE79-45DD-A970-8545579766CA.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9F55F331-698A-48A1-96E2-386CF7DBCC2C.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/168D5F01-98F3-4A0F-A445-F1060BA7AEC7.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/458B9397-DD53-4CF1-B43E-0CFA18AE0EDE.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/CF583AFE-4C4E-4B8A-B83D-CDE92FD032D8.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C9FEBF7A-E401-420E-A721-C03DBDFC4584.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C52FCBC8-8531-4444-9332-DD3B426FCF5A.jpg)
It does look like I'll have some minor repair work to do to get the front of the frame cleaned up once I cut the C channel bumper off when I go back to the original style.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B479988B-A944-4722-89CA-D8F07E33F96B.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/C6AD39F8-1B3A-432E-AD67-695F771CEE00.jpg)
Here's the whole setup once removed (ignore the clean aluminum PTO case, that wasn't part of the setup).
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/D9DE393D-1A0B-46ED-A1D7-C64C332643E2.jpg)
It's kind of interesting that a previous owner cobbled together this PTO setup. Seems like they must have broke the case on the PTO at some point and replaced it with this. It did work and function as intended.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/DDF52E69-ECB6-4AD2-BBE0-7C1B875CA551.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/8148A853-8456-451D-85D3-EF47362F3426.jpg)
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Carved out a little free time to give another go at rebuilding a water pump.
This one came apart much easier.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B88938EB-F795-4B2B-A8D0-8FC116E8692A.jpg)
You'll notice that there was a bit of build up on the inside of this one.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/9AD17F47-F2BD-4911-8FFB-AFFBBCB5C49D.jpg)
It did chip out pretty easily.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/00924D02-CAE0-4577-83BF-3E5AC3BB8E79.jpg)
After a good soda blasting, it went back together without issue. I'm not overly sure I got the impeller pressed on correctly. The pump does spin freely, but there is a little resistance, so it's possible I got it on a little too tight.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/29128C99-5576-4F0A-A389-540DE93E996F.jpg
)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/EEB9EB45-734A-49B8-AD5C-5EE23CBEEA41.jpg)
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I'd keep the twin stick just for the coolness factor and I'd add the OD too. That's be six shifters, defiantly anti-theft.
Great minds think alike!!
Over on the CJ2a forum, I posted a WTB ad for an overdrive. After a little back and forth with the seller. I was able to snag this 6 spline, 26 tooth unit for $500!! After disassembly, it looks to be in fantastic shape. I did order some new gaskets and misc snap rings and small parts to get it back into service. The only thing left is to order a shifter ring and rubber flap from Herm.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/71C012D4-9B7C-43F8-B7CD-CA75804BCCDF.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0F2087CB-EB48-4E90-AAC9-BFA2EB9C21DA.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/492AC3DC-772A-469C-94A3-75C843A348F6.jpg)
Tear down was pretty straight forward. All the bearings and gears look to be in great shape. Just need to scrape out all the RTV and give everything a good cleaning.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/8CEE251B-BF3D-4CF5-9604-CD776B2F0728.jpg)
A decent amount of RTV came off the seal surfaces.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/98267ADA-7237-4F95-88D4-36829FF81D26.jpg)
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I had off work the week of thanksgiving, so I wrestled around in my driveway to get the Overdrive installed and took it for a birthday jeep cruise. It was a tad chilly, but definitely worth it.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/0B158322-E747-48B0-8758-5C211F877C44_1.jpg)
It was kind of fun with the overdrive and splitting gears. It was a nice happy medium between the normal 2nd and 3rd gear.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/93869330-DA23-4351-946E-5B5A558D4933.jpg)
During my cruise, I noticed I was a little low on oil pressure, so I swung by the store to get some 20W-50 to top it off. Much to my surprising, the oil looked a little milky at the fill.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/4F741243-C5D2-40E8-91CB-75DD1545D983.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/214654E3-6D5D-47B2-A0C6-254EBE7CF4C7.jpg)
After driving around a little more, it seemed that the milky fill tube was just from condensation and went away after driving around a bit more.
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The weather is pretty chilly in the winters here in Wisconsin, so over the holidays, I was looking for some more parts and managed to snag two rear pto setups.
One was kind of greasy and came with a shortened shaft, which was fine because I intended to shorten it more to use with my overdrive setup.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1E4E6850-E973-46A5-946F-CC0861700C5C.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A4BC6A29-2968-4F51-AAEB-5723215CC3F3.jpg)
The other was a bit rougher looking and came with a full-length shaft.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/46EF27C6-AB53-4400-9287-0DB7BAC88357.jpg)
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I had some free time to work on the Rear pto gear box a little.
The outside looked okay. It seemed that someone sprayed a coat of red primer over the whole thing.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/D30C3A99-8F61-479F-A705-354AA87CACBB.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/1FDDDF6A-CA39-43F9-909E-AEDFD36E37BF.jpg)
Turns out the guts looked a little rougher than I had hoped.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A134E0DD-36A1-484A-A263-8ECDC987971A.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2F717121-A155-4C89-B3EC-E322A1DB8F11.jpg)
The bearings an races were definitely shot
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6B0BEB2F-6766-45D2-9C0C-CE0793565184.jpg)
Thankfully all the cast pieces cleaned up pretty nicely with the soda blaster
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/F949E858-241F-4FA5-9538-135D1325C5E3.jpg)
Here's all the bearings, races, seals, and gaskets I intend to replace.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/7CD77879-AEC1-4CA9-B5B9-576A36C5B5F9.jpg)
All the new stuff.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/69F9A557-69BB-492D-BEBE-DB57D3E2B1A5.jpg)
Soaking the guts and hardware in Evaporust
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/47548767-8D57-4C4F-A880-1954D8368B2D.jpg)
Everything actually cleaned up and came out pretty nicely.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/2473E68B-4F72-45F4-9470-DAEA726FC685.jpg)
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I sold my set of seats that came in the jeep so I needed to get my correct 3a ones installed.
I live close to Lake Winnebago in Wisconsin, so it's a pretty big deal to go out on the lake in the winters for ice fishing. On February 9th is the opening day of Sturgeon spearing (spearing a huge 6' long fish with a trident) on the lake, so I wanted to have the new seats done by then so I can go romp around the lake in the jeep.
The set of seat frames that I got a while back needed a bit of repair work to the driver's side legs. Seems they have nearly rusted away over the years.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/42532C68-FB2D-4498-9BD2-9197B1A2EDF9.jpg)
There are the remnants of the legs that were left that I cut off.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/6DBF2405-4FF0-4AB4-A5CC-6B30035764D6.jpg)
I made some new legs using 1" 16ga tubing. It was pretty simple to flatten the tubing in a smooth jawed vice, then bend them over.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/B65C1885-6B6B-41E5-8A65-47E76E1F0D11.jpg)
I first tacked them together, then test fit them in the jeep to make sure that the legs were clocked correctly. I did end up adjusting the right leg a little for a better fit, but I was pretty close.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/A1D4E3B8-DFD7-4FEF-A9D5-80C8028E7399.jpg)
Ground the welds smooth and they look at good as new.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/91C3ACCB-2BF0-4109-96CC-402466B0B869.jpg)
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The next project was to upgrade the sealed beam headlights. They aren't overly bright as most of you are aware.
I found a post a while back about these Euro style lenses from Hella that use an H4 bulb that plug right into the factory harness.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/5FEEAAC3-D861-42AB-9193-D37D52B2D884.jpg)
The lights are noticeably brighter. I haven't taken a measurement, but I'm going to see what kind of voltage is actually getting to the headlights. I think I can get even more output if I wire in a relay setup.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/DF36A614-4470-40CB-A2B2-BD49723B4E86.jpg)
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One week to go until Sturgeon spearing, so I've got to get moving on these seats. I ordered covers and springs from Walcks. Then picked up the rest of the supplies (foam, batting, and muslin) from the local craft store. I'll post some more pictures of the upholstery process when I get to it.
Tonight I was spraying some self-etching primer on the frames after about two hours of wire brushing and using a scotchbrite pad to prep the surface.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/F66C56A5-72DD-487D-9D31-61ECA0877890.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/1949%20Cj3a/601CC229-6824-4D78-8452-E0B3B6AD8D1F.jpg)
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Nice stuff. I've got overdrive/PTO envy!
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Nice stuff. I've got overdrive/PTO envy!
Thanks!
I'll have to do a little work to shorten the driveshaft, but it'll be fun once it's all together.
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Little more work this morning on the seat frames. After I got a solid base of the self-etching primer, I sprayed some high build primer on them in hopes of filling in some of the pits. After this coat, I'll send them and spray another to even it all out.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/Photo%20Feb%2002%209%2018%2014%20AM.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/Photo%20Feb%2002%209%2018%2038%20AM.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/Photo%20Feb%2002%209%2018%2050%20AM.jpg)
Since it has been a few months since I've taken the jeep out for a spin, I couldn't resist today since it's up to 35 degrees (it was -25 Wednesday and Thursday). I tossed a bag of rock salt on top of the gas tank to sit on and took it for a spin around the block.
Before going, I did manage to get my new horn wired up. It was pretty simple since the wire was still in the column. I just had to run a hot from the ammeter to the horn, then another short wire to the column wire to ground it.
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/Photo%20Feb%2002%2012%2004%2056%20PM.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/Photo%20Feb%2002%2012%2005%2014%20PM.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/Photo%20Feb%2002%2012%2005%2002%20PM.jpg)
(https://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/unclemoak/Photo%20Feb%2002%2012%2005%2008%20PM.jpg)