My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your CJ-3A Project => Topic started by: cbauer on July 28, 2015, 05:29:20 PM
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In the beginning.... There was a 51 cj3a named Theodore (name based on the Teddy Roosevelt because its a rough riding SOB!)
I have decided to dismantle Theodore after having it for about 3 years and enjoying using it around my place. Also due to the fact that we finished my dads 66 Tuxedo Park cj5 restoration and I have the room now.
Probably a slow restoration but we'll see. I've been collecting parts for a while now and my goal is to turn it into a ag-jeep.
I collected all the pto funning gear front winch (Koenig) and a Ramsey pto with the rear pto gear.
At the final thread in this build :DI will have a picture of me and Theodore mowing my front lawn? :D
I will be mostly working on the weekends due to work and replies and post will be welcomed as we all know we hit the wall at some point and wonder why we took it this far. well full steam ahead and damn the torpedos.
Its been interesting going through the build treads here and on the 2apage.....more to come
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Just for reference the before pic of the cj5 is of my dad and I in front of Theodore and Tux before we started on his resto two years ago. I pulled his jeep out of the back of the shop with Theodore where is sat for 15+- years. The dauntless is a cool motor and that is the fastest stock jeep I have ever been in. sorry, tangent. back to Theodore
I began the disassembly this weekend and the PO did a lot of mods to the jeep.
welded the bumper and frame together with bracing to the front horns. There had been a rather large impact and the horns are bent but the frame is clean and good with some stress cracks in normal places.
one of the mods is the MC, it is a 68 corvette MC mounted on the firewall (very nice engineering) but I am bringing it back to original. I don't like the pedals hanging down from above.
The bad news is the grill and fenders are toast the PO welded the grill and fenders together and welded brackets to the frame inside the to hold the radiator, grill and fenders all together. Pics of the sacrilege tomorrow.
I've scored some cool items one of which is an original NEW 6 piece top with bows, hardware, doors never installed and a great hood for $500. 8-) Thanks Tyler.
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The Tuxedo looks beautiful. Nice work.
Looking forward to the 3A restoration.
Welcome aboard.
Tim
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Nice looking forward to the restoration!
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Here are some pics of the front frame and the rather creative way to fix the front end.. not
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The little springy things are hood anti-vibration dampers or just bubba bumpers eather way they will not be reinstalled
You can see where he mounted the MC on the firewall kinda cool upgrade but not my cup o tea. ordered some parts for the axels since the frame up resto starts with the bones. all new bearings and seals. I had rebuilt the trans/transfer last year but the tcase has a bad wine, must have been a bad new shaft and bearings. No worries bought a whole newly rebuilt t&tcase for 200 from a guy that gave me the trans and a winch (Koenig) and carb rebuilt and misc. part before he moved.
People in Texas love their jeeps and hoard leftover parts.
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vin on the firewall
the Texas title has the motor serial # for on title I thought that was somewhat different.
I cant make it out very well but ill post it this weekend, I think the motor is a rebuild and not original to the jeep. Id like more info on it.
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I think I can beat on and straighten the front horns up after I get the bumper off but ran into a snag with the grinder, blade dissentigrated on me and cut my knuckle to the bone, no worries that's what duct tape is for. Need to pick up more blades (maybe better quality) Nice having harbor freight up here in Sherman/Denison.
Anyone have a preference on who the get a bell crank kit and ross kit from. I have bought parts from CSE, OCONEE, AND QTM. some good and bad but there all mostly omix or crown anyway.
I ordered from ROCKAUTO some shocks and rebuilt kits for the wheel and MC's great price less than 2 bucks each and MC was about 9 bucks.
I will rebuild the wheel cylinders and MC parts from a 2a that is my parts jeep and theodore. could'nt hurt to see if they work or not.
Anyone ever try to do that? and what was the outcome?
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I got both my bell crank and Ross parts from Walcks, great service and everything fit nicely.
My wheel cyl and MC were too rusted
Kirk
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Got to work on the removals this weekend (very hot) in the shop. I only had to grind off two bolts and (wahlah) frame exposed. The resulting repairs needed for the body repair is what is expected.
bed riser
both rear tail light panels
rear cross member (Under the tailgate)
Hat channel
driver and passenger floors
rear passenger quarter panel
I will most likely get replacement panels for the body and weld it back, lots of stress cracks everywhere, I do have a 2a tub for those areas that are useable.
as far as the frame it looks like the frame horns are the only area that needs attention besides the dirt and grease. I'll have the motor and drive train pulled this weekend.
Bubba did his part on this one. the brakes were interesting to see how he engineered the peddles from the master cylinder (hang down from the cowl and not up from the floor).
Here are some pics for the pennut gallery (which I am a member) but its kind of interesting to go back through the thread and see the progress or lack of and how long it takes.
My plan is to get the rolling chassis completed by the next two months. Axels, springs, frame, brakes, ect. I have most of the parts for that unless the surprises are overwhelming.
The body turned out to be more damaged than I expected, so I will cut out the bad and order and replace with good. I am disappointed with the fenders, I thought I might be able to save them but my skills will butcher them. to many bad spots and bubba mods.
Chime in and give me your opinions and guidance as this project moves to the I'm done and whats next phase (down the road).
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If you look at the pics and notice how bubba made the trans hump into accessible panel to the trans/transfer case, he did it with lead buck rivets (wow). I think he had to be an engineer even the access he cut into the top of the cowl for the brakes was very exact. But with that said none of the mods will go back in and Theodore will be mostly original to the parts side. Now I plan to take some liberties with the paint and bolts and getting some of the parts that are painted and have them zinked, I just like the cleanliness of how the parts clean-up the looks.
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Also the mods made by bubba to the fenders and where they attach you can see in one of the pics where he cut off the angle for the bolts. and he added in there a 1.5" angle and bolted that on. That sucks cause now I have to repair that ( very unexpected).
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Your tub is in remarkably good shape.
All 3A owners wish we had tranny hump access panels like yours...or like the M38.
Keep the progress coming.
Tim
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Its not to bad, I looked over my 2a tub and it will have some panels I can use. I basically have 2 1/2 tubs ive collected and it will be good to use them to make one good one instead of discarding. I will need a passenger fender as the one on Theodore is to far gone. I have two 2a sets of fenders maybe I can see if they can contribute to make the original work.
Also I have a 2a grill but I think it is much different than my 3a, which is toast due to how they fixed it to much work again.
I will be up for parts trading on mics. items to complete Theodore if anyone is interested.
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Not much done this past weekend but I did get the trans out and most of the parts labled and put away for the slow days of cleaning and misc. repairs. Lots OF TOTES. But now with parts everywhere I need to get organized in the shop meaning cleaning and getting rid of crap I truly don't need. IF anyone is interested in a 6X6 Hustler amphib let me know that will be the moneys for Theodore's restoration.
I really wanting to get to the frame and get it done with axles restored and brakes, you know the working engineless chassis.
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I know I'm jumping ahead here, but are you planning on painting it the original color? The name Theodore and the color green seem to be a good fit.
Tim
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Tim, I'm going with dark blood red (not maroon) and black wheels. I found that new VW's have a red that's really dark and it suits the color I'm looking for. I'm going to get a bunch of the other misc. parts zink plated to give it some contrast. it should pop pretty good when its done and out in the sun. I do like the Normandy blue but i always wanted a red flatfender.
I did get the engine out today and almost got the axels off but had one of the rear shakles bolts broke off and it is going to be a rather big pita to get it out.
I got all the front bumper and welded mass of steel that was the brush guard and brackets for the radiator off and now i can see how bad the front horns are.
ill get pics tomorrow of them, ill try heat and hammers first but i think i can save them. I will be adding a front pto winch and i want it to be solid for that application.
i could'nt get my wheels off because one of my sons friends borrowed the impact and didnt bring it back, whats up with kids these days? Ill be taking the front axle apart tomorrow and getting it cleened and ready for assimbly.
Do you think its a good idea to take the springs apart, clean and re-install? we had the CJ5 springs sent out and repaired but I dont want to do that unless i find one broken.
I remember the work we put into dads CJ5 and that was two of us and two years. My goal is completed rolling chassie as soon as i can. to keep the parts from pilling up.
But we'll see i did enjoy working on it today.
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Got the wheels off (had to buy another impact wrench) and took the axles off as well. Ill pressure wash the frame and axles this afternoon and start to break the axles down further,
King pins feel like they are toast.
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Cbauer,
Looking forward to seeing your finished work. If your ever in the DFW area look me up!
George/ Tumbleweed
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Thanks George, I grew up in Arlington and moved up to Lake Texoma. I know your area well, and I liked you rebuild. I come down to the metroplex every now and again, but prefer peeps to come and visit here (better Traffic less stress) ;D
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Worked on the axles this weekend and cleaned up some parts. 65 years of grease a dirt will make a shop dirty in a heart beat. Had to take the front axle back apart twice due to the pinion not fitting right but got that done. should have checked it before putting the hubs back on oh well that why you shouldnt get in a hurry and measure twice and cut once as they say. all in all the project is doing good.
I'm still trying to work out how to repair the front horns, i'm going to try using a porta power to straighten the horns and if not maybe you guys might have a used ones that i could get.
Ordered more parts from rock auto and the worked out good.
the wheel cylinders look good thought i could rebuild the old one but they were way too far gone.
I never noticed on my 2A it had 11" front drums! thought about using them but i"m staying with original. might use them for anouther 2A down the road.
I should have the axles done this week and start on the rest of the parts cleaning springs and other misc.
I have duelomatic hubs that I'm polishing up but need to find new o-rings one of them was broken its should look good that way polished base and painted top. With black wheels, chrome rings and polished hub it will make the wheels look really good.
oh I'll get some more pics soon.
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spent 2 hourt and got the front axle ready for paint today and will work on the rear axle tomorrow. Ordered brake lines and hoses from CSE today and will be in friday.I hope to get the axles completed by this weekend and start on the springs and frame. I'm still not sure how to get the horn back in shape but will ask around the best way to bend it back and reshape it.
Cleaned up the duromatics hubs and decided to polish them they look great polished and will be a nice contrast to the wheels. took some pics and will upload them tomorrow.
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Got some pics just a teaser, I know I'm backwards in the order of clean paint and assemble but I'm dyslexic.
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Those really pop. Nice work. [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
Tim
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Finished the axle clean up and coated them with rust encalpsulator 3 day to cure and then paint, had an oh crap moment when i dropped the front axle off the stand and it cracked one of the duromatic hubs but it still functions (i hope) but a little rain and a long road,,,, ill get over it, i guess i cant lift as much as i used too.
On to the springs next the rust removal is just a pain in the *rear end! I like throwing in some small parts as I clean the large one's it makes me think that its getting some progress on Theodore and the parts that get completed are boxed and shelved
Does anyone know how long a Rear pto shaft to the rear pto gear is the one i have is cut in half and needs to be re-shaft.
Also i have a Ramsey PTO wench that is missing the handle side --Ill get the model # and post it maybe iLL get lucky and some one will have a broken one that will work. I
also have two Koenig Kings and both a frames are busted but they are both in great shape gear wise. I guess Herm will have something. I thought about rigging one up and see if i can make or adapt it to be functional.
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Anyone have a 3a grill for a side mount radiator I'll trade you a 2a grill? or give me a price if you have an extra.... also if you have a bad 3a frame with good front bumper horns ill use them.
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Got some work done on axles since the last post, cleaned and painted them still haven't had the berings pressed on the rear axles though, just seemed to not find someone locally with a press or who has the time to do it oh well it will happen. got the drive shafts cleaned and prepped for paint. got frustrated one evening on the frame instead worked on cleaning and painting some misc. parts like the air filter and brackets. I had cleaned and painted the one already from the 2a and its in better shape that the 3a but ill still use the one on the 3a to go back in its not that bad really.
I made a porta power/ram jack to help in the frame streaghting phase it works kinda! but I need to reinforce the plates I'm using because they were bending as I pumped it up to its max, to try and bend back the frame horn. 1/2 steel and 3/4" all-thread and it bent bad enough to have to add more to reinforce the bars.
got to looking at the grill and I think I'm going to disassemble the 3a grill and use the insides on the 2a and wala 3a grill since my 2a grill needs only minor repairs just a little more welding.
Interesting note when I cleaned up the drive shafts I had replaced the u-joints on the rear but not the front. when I cleaned the fronts of (which are in great shape I think they are original u-joints) They have Spicer embossed on the end of the caps. I've not seen that before, I was carful not to screw them up.
I had decided to get the frame sandblasted and I will get it ready for painting. what I wanted to do was get all the steel repairs done then finished but I can have the rear axle on and get all the brake lines run and re-install the trans. which will get me almost a rolling chassis.
what do you guys think on that?
still need some pics will have them soon.
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worked on the grills today drilling out the spot welds on the fan shrouds looks like it will work to use the 2a grill with the 3a fan shroud. head light cans are not as bad as the 2a cans which i already cleaned and painted but black not chocolate brown.
I'm going to the Baylor/Rice game tomorrow so may be back to work on it alittle tomorrow evening. My son graduated from Rice and My Daughter is getting her masters at Baylor. My color combonation for the game will be navy blue rice hat and a gold baylor shirt. (mama dreesses me funny) :D
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QTM has a front right frame horn that would work great, question is the best way to attach the horn to the frame. the one they have for sale (ebay) is cut around the cross member. should it be cut before the grill bracket and rewelded there?
Need help/suggestions on the best way to attach this to the frame ( I will have a PTO winch mounted on the front)
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here is a pic of the shaft with the spicer u-joint Could it be original
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Witch'es brew (electrolysis) works wonders for parts restoration. I usually keep the parts in the bath for 24 hrs to get all the rust off, it also delaminates most of the paint. This makes the clean-up with a wire wheel easy work. I did this to my CJ2A windshield when I had it and it came out rust free! used a kiddy pool for that one and got all the rust off inside and out. Anything is better than just sandblasting all the parts, and it saves a lot of time and money. JMHO
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finished the Hubs ...ME LIKEY
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worked on the 2A grill to transform into a 3A grill
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Here is a question on the Hat Channels on the main channel under the drivers side the body bolt on my tub is installed in the channel pryor to the channel being welded on (no bolt head under the gas tank). This was not the case on the 66 CJ5?
is Classic enterprise hat channel have this Bolt installed?
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I don't believe CE installs the welded nut in their hat channel. I'm not sure any of the hat channel suppliers do. I've had to weld my own in.
Tim
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great looking project. you're one of the lucky ones... your jeep's body is in great shape. usually the toolbox under the passenger seat looks horrible. great job so far. keep up the good work.
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Thanks Corpman! Its one part at a time. Ordered my front frame horn from Matt at QTM nice guy, talked jeep stuff for a while, enjoyed the conversation. He gave me a few pointers I needed.
The tub is going to need the following:
1. both light panels
2. tailgate repair
3. panel below the tailgate
4. right side panel (rusted at the spare tire mount)
5 both wheel house brackets
6. re-weld the trans hump back
7. floor riser repair
8. hat channels
9. floor pan repairs (not a full replacement just misc. areas above the hat channels)
10. misc. holes and dents
The windshield is perfect, and when my dad had his jeep sandblasted we had my windshield done then. I had sprayed rust neutralizer on it until the time for painting.
I took out the fenders to asses the extent of repairs and they are toast. I have great 2A fenders that I will use until I get a good set of 3a fenders.
My hood had some issues not to bad but a lot of work to replace some areas in the front where the PO welded up bad spots and some dents. When I got the Rag top, he through in a great hood which I will use instead.
The grill is soaking in the witches brew for a couple of days to get all the rust off and help with the cleanup.
If I had a big enough tank I would put my whole frame and tub in it and never need any sandblasting :-[.
I'm taking my front hubs off again and going to reline the brakes. although they had plenty of life in them, why buy the pads to fix it and not use them? It's was very easy to do it on the back brake pads so I'll go ahead and do the fronts.
Overall the progress seems slow, but when the frame is complete, the rolling chassis will take no time at all, and all those little nit picking parts will be done and ready for assembly.
I like to jump around cleaning and painting on misc. parts kinda breaks the boredom of working on just one area. Although the frame is key it will get done when its done :-?
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finished the axles, done complete finito! yea.
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removed the hat channel not too bad!
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finished the headlights! :D
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Here's a teaser for you got this Harrison last year and revamped it looks good. it will be great on those cold winter days! Purchased this from a guy in Houston for $40.00 motor runs like a champ 8-)
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OK, I need some help in finding the end for this Ramsey winch.
This is the winch I want to install on Theodore.
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on the hat channel would you just get rid of the bolt and just go through the floorboard? see previous post and pic.
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Well its been awhile, but I have been working on the frame. I had to wire my shop up and then was able to get some welding done on the frame. NICE TO HAVE POWER WHERE THE WELDING IS TAKING PLACE.
I cut off the offending frame horn and welded on the horn I bought from QTM. worked out great don't have to straighten out the left side frame, just need to tweek the frame on the right side alittle.
Got the rear bumper welded and straightened (worked with heat for the first time very good results) much easier than I thought just a little time. Frame is ready for sandblasting.
I did weld up some cracks in the fenders (CJ2a fenders) and other misc. items that needed a little attention.
Its nice having an good working mig with gas using argon mix really nice welds (no fuss no mess)!
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I don't know how I got by without my mig welder......now I'm pretty sure I need a small oxy-acetylene outfit.....
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Here are some pics of my fab work on the frame not to bad for a novice, maybe its the equipment!
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I cut off the end of the 2a bumper and added it to the 3a and it came out real good. welded up some misc. holes and now all it needs is the front left frame horn adjusted about 3/4".
Sandblaster is next on frame, wheels, fenders and grill.
Ohh Yeaaahhh
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Nice work
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No pics to show but i have been working on taking apart and cleaning and painting small parts like the starter, altinator, and lots of the linkages that need cleanong and painting. I'll be getting the frame and wheels with other parts sandblasted soon.
I did order the front turn signals from ebay (india mfg) they are for a CJ3B (bullit Lights). I like the look and at 30.00 shipped cant go wrong. Well maybe will see if they get used, or just get the lenses for the originals.
Thats all for now untill the sandblasting is done. Ill post some pics of the small parts i;ve been working on.
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Its allways cool to find neat ways they maufactured the parts for these little wonders, while cleaning up parts last night the bracket for the brake and clutch crossover was a welded two piece bracket with a bronze nut holder both pieces were welded together with brass, neat part.
On the same note when rebuilding the 66 tuxcedo park we found the brake arm was cast in bronze. not wanting to paint in we chose to polish it and clearcoat it. That is realy cool when you look under the jeep and see a gold brake arm :D
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Here are some pics of misc. items before and afters. If you look at the clutch and brake tube attachment bracket it is bronze and brass welded? cool piece. Also the gas tank strap was painted the original color of the jeep, never saw that before. Notice the staples through the strap to hold the rubber anti-squeak pad (original looks like a serpentine belt).
Here is a question for all you guys, I have three motors and all the oil filter brackets have cracks in them some more than others. that bracket is very well built and I would'nt think that it has a lot of stress on them, have anyone else run into their brackets being cracked?
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finished up a bunch of parts to put up until ready for install. I'm curious about the parts that go into the clutch and brake tube. meaning the spring and solid washers and the little felt seals.
The repair manual is unclear as to the installation sequence?
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Hope this helps
http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwj9n6rMzdTJAhUI7iYKHT5jD2MQjhwIBQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fmidwestjeepwillys.com%2Fcj3a-clutchparts.html&psig=AFQjCNHrsfwiCD8ZK5fbdfcKJj6jwfJWdQ&ust=1449950586765389
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CB,
The tube bracket in your photo appears to be modified. This photo is courtesy of Omix Ada...
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/a4634dde39146264c4e1fe8157e03088_zpssaljbanq.jpg)
The original pad material on the tank strap was a welt material. I chose to do something similar to yours. I figured a rubber material would be less prone to holding moisture. Here is a shot of mine...
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/20151212_102617_zpshszsqql8.jpg) (http://s1195.photobucket.com/user/athawk11/media/20151212_102617_zpshszsqql8.jpg.html)
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thanks guys, after i posted, found the scematic i needed. bought a carter fuel fillter today on ebay for 25 bucks including shipping, looks like its in good shape if not nos.
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Got my carter fuel filter in and it really looks like new old stock looks bead blasted, and the bonus was the front blinker parking lights from India. I had ordered these off ebay $30.00 including shipping. Took a chance and very pleased with the outcome. They are new probably made for Mahindra, Bullet lights for cj3B or truck but they are great mod. Love the look and the quality is not U.S. but very functional.
Over all I like the quality and the price was rock bottom. :D
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The witches brew cleaned up some misc. metal parts to be wheel
brushed and painted.
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I'd like to see the blinker setup, and installation� Thanks
Kirk
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Here are some pics of the recent work on Theodore, small parts work and storage for install, I must say that the witches brew (as I call it ((magical rust removal system)).. works great and minimal work with the bench grinder with the wire wheel on it.
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The bee hive blinkers are about 5/8" wider that the original parking lights, I was trying to stay about the same width as originals, I'll need to sleep on installation of these, I don't like the fact that they are much wider that the originals but they do serve a functional and they look dame cool.
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Started to disassemble some more engine parts to clean, and also took the head off to see what the cylinders look like.
The block and head look good but the #3 cylinder had pitting of a hole in it!
Feed back on what this might be is needed?"
It looks like alien acid blood spilled into the cylinder :-?
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Cylinder or piston ?
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Cylinder or piston ?
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The piston had this in the picture the head and cylinders looked ok
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Witch'es brew (electrolysis) works wonders for parts restoration. I usually keep the parts in the bath for 24 hrs to get all the rust off, it also delaminates most of the paint. This makes the clean-up with a wire wheel easy work. I did this to my CJ2A windshield when I had it and it came out rust free! used a kiddy pool for that one and got all the rust off inside and out. Anything is better than just sandblasting all the parts, and it saves a lot of time and money. JMHO
I know it's been a while since this post... can you elaborate on the witch's brew? thanks,
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Small pit in the piston shouldn't do any harm other than change your compression ratio by 0.00000001%.
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Witches brew is electrolysis,
1. one 55 gallon plastic barrel
2. 1/2" rebar welded in a grid patern
3. one non-electronic battery charger (I use 40 amps)
4. arm & hammer washing (powder) detergent.
5. water to cover all items
Mix the soap into the water make sure it is dissolved.
hang rebar off of side of barrel (I use two on each side of the barrel), suspend the items for rust removal between the rebar (not touching) connect the positive to the rebar and negative to the items for rust removal. turn on charger and let the items brew for a few hours.
The items you are doing will begin to bubble and that is the electrolysis eating away the rust the bars with the positive connected to them will collect the particals from the items being conditioned.
I have used a small baby pool and completely de-rusted my windshield one side at a time.
Caution: the bubbels are hydrogen gas (no smoking) :D
There are great vids on youtube for this, start with a 5 gallon bucket first and work your way up to big tanks
If I had a bigger tank I would put the frame or tub in it and not use a sandblaster at all just wire wheel after use.
work smarter not harder
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no smoking... lol
thanks. Will give it a try.
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Did some welding on the grill shroud, filled the holes in that were left from the spot weld remover bit. I used a copper 1/2" pipe pounded flat as a backing, and really liked the results. I plan on taking the frame and other parts to the blasters next week. and get this build off the (to cold to do anything fence). I did get the exhaust manifold cleaned and painted with the ceramic header paint. :D
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If anyone has a 3a passenger fender that is in good shape? to sell or trade?
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PM me if you have the fender for trade is what I meant to say?
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Here are some pics, I don't know if I like the metallic on the manifold but we'll see if it looks good when the engine is painted. i'm using the gray that is on the intake for the engine.
I like the welds I did on the grill shroud and I will drill 1/4" holes to mount and weld back to the grill. The copper pipe that I used for the backing during welding worked fantastic. I just pounded it flat and clamped it to the shroud and filled it in. EASY BREEZY.
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Well the Eagle has landed and were off to the races! the frame is sealed and in 5 days of cure I will paint and start assembly of the rolling chassis. I have 3 springs to get ready and will have plenty of time for those.
A guy came up to me when I dropped the trailer for sandblasting and said I have some flat fenders, so I ask to see them and he had 1 mb, 2 45's colume shifts, 5 46-48's, 2 48 trucks 2 wagons and god knows what else. goes to show you you never know what is behind the barns in the country. :D
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This is the rust converter I use, which is fantastic got it from my brother-in-law which uses it in the plant he works at.
We used it on the Tux CJ5 and wow. Note: (do not mess the paint up and try to sand it back to metal this material will be very tough to get through)
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Oh yea, and my new best friend (Jeep Horder) sold me the MB steering wheel for 20 bucks. I will use it on Teddy.
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Got some etching primer on the wheels, grill and some misc. parts. gonna shot some paint this weekend and use some filler primmer on the grill. I will paint the frame this weekend also wanted that to cure for a while before the painting. 8-)
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TGIF, the fed ex truck arrived today with some cool goodies! I bought a heater valve on ebay for the Harrison and got my tail lights from Speedster which are the 33-36 Ford Taillights in stainless. great price with shipping for $45.00. This weekend I will paint the frame and wheels clean and paint the rest of the springs, prime and sand the grill. and will try and get the tires mounted back on the rims if they are dry enough,
Maybe I'm getting to ahead of myself :D
I did work on the MB steering wheel filling cracks and such, it will look just like new, I'm also working on the original one doing the same thing but Hey, being a Marine and having a part on my jeep with battle history (that's just cool) 8-)
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pics for those that are vision challenged?
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Work over the weekend cleaned and painted one of the springs, Couldn't resist the urge to attach some parts to the Frame. :D
Mostly stuff that would not be in the way when I get the axles put under the frame.
Also got the Tail lights from speedway (WOW) very nice great quality and price is perfect. I paid 24.95 for the left and 19.99 for the right with 7 bucks shipping. These are all SS housings with glass lenses.
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Nice, I wish my progress was as good. My frame is still at the shop waiting for a few welds before going in for blasting.
Wish I could stretch my days a bit...
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Paint always makes things look much better, even if its just a coat of primer.
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Well, its nice to here some feedback. couldn't tell anyone was on the page anymore?
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Ordered some parts from RockAuto mostly misc. items needed to finish the Rolling Chassis. They had the complete exhaust for 120.00 and additional 5% off on the order. Saved quite a bit.
Still have one of the springs to wire wheel and another to paint.
I absolutely hate this cleaning of the springs (kills my arms) I should have just left them alone and cleaned the outside but they will be completely refurbished when I'm done.
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Today was a good day. :) I'm looking at my new old Koenig wench that arrived (model c100 ) and it's the one I will use for the pto wench. Also I got the shipped parts from rock auto with the complete exhaust nice quality. Omit Ada. Got the rear axel bolted on and started to run brake lines.
The double flare tool from harbor is crap just rent the one from auto zone.
I got the lines bent and ready for the flares.
The bummer on the whole day is I had h shackles for the front springs and was buying new bushings for them, and dame those are expensive!
So now I Need to order two more of the original c shackles and save 30.00 bucks. To bad as the shipping was paid on my order Friday. :-?
Pics tomorrow
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Completed the rear brakes this weekend, could'nt help myself and mockuped the muffler.
I can get the trans in but since its been in the shop for a couple of years I'm going to freshen up the paint on it and the crossmember before I put them in.
I did break down the new old winch and began the cleanup on it.
it is in great shape and I only need to make new gaskets and then put it back together and paint it.
Its coming together and I'm pleased with the progress.
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Nothing like a fresh shiny black frame and brake lines are never fun especially with a lousy flaring tool.
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Thanks for the reply, I really like running the lines, it's really easy for me, due to my past life as an installer in chem plant and hospitals.
I,ll get the trans repainted before the weekend and have it sitting right where it belongs.
Also got an order from walks coming with 4 tubes and my c shakers should be here Friday and I will have a rolling chassis :D
That will free up my space for body work and motor disassembly. Semiper fi, you all, from Texas
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Also, I did get the winch cleaned up and painted the handle assembly. Using appliance epoxy paint from Home Depot.
One of my buds did a roll bar with it and it was really great finish.
I also did my steering wheel with it.
We!ll she how it lasts
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here are some before pics as the winch arrived, I had hell getting the key out of both shafts ended drilling the one out on the input key
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Usually when I work on brake lines it's fixing a rusted out one. Massachusetts winters are brutal on that stuff, way more fun when all new and you can do it from the top without a body in the way.
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Its Great to put new back on new. This thing will be together for another 40 years. Besides making it an Agg Jeep (I want to mow my land with it and pull stumps with a original PTO) I do have two tractors so its just for show mostly but these are the original poboys's tractors.
You can build one for half the cost of a new UTV side by side and still drive to town legally!
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Here are the almost after pics of the new old Koenig winch it has really come together and looks good. I have made new gaskets and bought new bolts and it will really look good sitting on the front of Theodore. Talk about having a hood ornament!
Today I should get my package from Walcks, which means I will be able to finish installing the front axle and I can get the trans installed.
Phase one in my double secret evil plan to complete a 51 cj3a is almost complete! 8-)
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That looks really nice!
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If you feel guilty for having such a nice winch when most of us don't I'd be willing to take it off your hands for free to help ease your pain.
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Thanks, it came out very nice.
Now I must finish phase one still, I got called away yesterday and today to show property and couldn't get the axle done. Bummer.
I did get the trans painted and I'll let it dry a day before installation.
Oh well just another day in paradise :)
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Very nice!!
I could not figure out why you painted some red "ghost stripes" across the parts, :D :o but closer inspection, appears to be something odd about the photo (stripes continue into background)
-or- maybe just me seeing things, after a long day at work. ;D
Again, the winch looks great! (along with your whole project).
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Well, I got a bit ahead of myself on getting the chassis done.
I went ahead and installed the trans that I bought 3 years ago with the adapter for a v8 and just realized I need to disassemble the trans to get the main output shaft off. Now I must disassemble the old one to get the output shaft from it to install into the one I just put on the Jeep.
Well, I will have more experience in the art of trans gression! :D
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Well, we had our Easter this weekend with the kids and not munched happened on theodore. I did get the front axle mounted but not tide in. With the tie Rods attached it's nice to have the steering work and the red boots on the tie rods really stand out.
I broke into the trans while it is mounted in the jeep to get the output shaft changed with the other one that was in it originaly.
Every gear I the trans I bought 4 years ago were new trans case and all.
More to come pics when I get the axle finished
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Is it just me or does it seem that the auto correct is just one big pain in the *rear end.
I use this I pad from xmas and I can't get that stupid thing turned off.
Well my excuse for bad spelling.
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Got some work done on teddy Saturday. I finished the trans swap on the input shaft, still need to put the old trans back together though. Clutch linkage done and brake lines on the front axle completed. Didn't have all the fittings so need four to complete brake system.
I mounted the pto which I can see will have some mods for the exhaust.
Any help with that exhaust will be greatly appreciated.
The tires are one the rims and I have the two back one on the frame this is going to be a great looking jeep.
Interesting side note when I have the wheels and tires mounted in town one of the guys had a 48 cj2a his dad had bought just Dow the road from me.(that makes it about 14 flat fenders in about a five mile radius from my house)! And I keep finding more!
I will need to take off the front hubs and line the brakes
On that one then adjust all four.
It's amazing how much more room in the shop I have now that the chassis is almost done.
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Got some pics of the brake line routes. love making up the lines and its even better on the look.
Let me know what you think.
I mounted the PTO to get the feel of how things will fit together and routing of the exhaust. I can see the standard placement will not work and mods to the routing will need to be made.
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pics of the PTO!
Frame is dusty but will shine like a new penny when I wash it off :D
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Started to mock up the winch mount and there sure in no room for the 7/8" shaft.
Here is what I think:
1. mount winch low where shaft is under the bell crank.
2. shift winch to the drivers side slightly to avoid the tie rods when turning left.
Problems with the winch are the shaft was to long out of the winch, I fixed that by swapping the shafts out from the Koenig king.
also the mount width is 9 inches and the drum barely fits between the grill and the bumper so it is ether mounted high on the frame or low and high will not allow any clearance under the grill and bellcrank.
On the Ramsey the width is 7.5 inches and the drum is thinner and the shaft is 3/4". those would and I'm sure, be much better for fitting and mounting options.
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I love those wheels with the trim rings, what did they come off and what size?
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Those rings came off the cj2a parts jeep they are 16". They really pop on making Theodore have bling in a sutle way.
I really like how they look.
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Not much happening with the project due to the work load but, I have done some misc. work such as adjusting the front brakes and mostly helping dad with the CJ5 dauntless, which has a miss. The pertronics for the v6 is acting up.
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Almost have the winch mounted. I had to make a block 2x2x17.5 inches to mount the front of the Koenig to the bumper. I had stopped by the local scrap yard and they had aluminum pieces that I cut to make to bar I wanted, only cost me 50 cents a pound and I had enough to make a fairlead as well.
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here are the pics on the spacer to the bumper for the Koenig winch, its going to work well I think.
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The winch turned out very nice. Wish I had one.
Hawk
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Its all good,
picked up the correct size bolts to mount with the spacers and drilled the bumper. Man, that was a chore since they have to be just perfectly lined up front and back, which still needs a bit of tweeking to get it to bolt up well. But once the holes were drilled in the bumper all is right with the world. Now I can move on to the disassembly of the motor and work to get an all new driveline and motor that should last another 65 years :D
I will order some body parts that I need and while the motor is having its guts cleaned and refreshed before assembly.
That way I can have some body work and motor work done and competed at the same time.
The double secret evil plan is coming together nicely!
Not to get to ahead of the scope of work though, I'm looking forward to building my first gasoline combustion engine bigger that a 10 hp motor.
i'll got the machine shop to do the grunt work and i'll assemble myself. Yea I think?
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Worked on Teddy this weekend and got the winch installed completely and disassembled the motor.
Mostly why I began the project was due to the motor with low oil pressure and lack of power and other various reasons but mostly the motor.
after breaking down all the parts the reasons of lack of power was very obvious, the crank is grooved (lack of oil pressure) and full of crap that only could be described as the beginnings of the San Andres tar pits! something had gotten into the pistons because the pistons are really scored.
Pistons were .040 over on this rebuilt motor
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Here are the pics of the mounted winch
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here is the clearance on the winch pto shaft less than a 1/4" so it came out good. now I need to figure out how to reduce from 7/8" shaft to the 3/4" shaft and the u-joint
Any input will be needed. thinking a bushing reducer in the u-joint will sufice?
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Worked on teddy some today. Got the tub moved to start removing some parts, tail light panels need to be removed but I'm going to just cut out the bad parts were the rust is behind the mounting brackets. Also the Spare tire bracket needs removed and replaced along with the tail gate panel. There will be lots of small repairs like the floors and some of the mounting holes at the floor riser has stress cracks.
I'll get some spot weld remover bits and start the fun and exciting process of body modifying manipulation.
I'm still searching for a machine shop to start the motor work.
The 66 tuxedo park motor was built by a guy here in town and didn't get the shims right on the heads had to get those redone the labor was rather costly on that.
I don't know if he will be the go to guy for this motor though.
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here are some pics taken as I start the body work.
Can anyone tell me why Willys put this rubber bumper in, It is under the hat channel and by the toe gusset brace thingy
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Can anyone tell me why Willys put this rubber bumper in, It is under the hat channel and by the toe gusset brace thingy
It plugs the hole where previously the strainer bolt was installed.
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Thanks Bob nice to get the feedback.
I spoke to a machine shop today may take some time to get the motor worked on. Here in Texas it go fast season and the hot rod motors take first dibs. At least he was aware of the difference between a Lhead and Fhead were.
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Question to you motor gurus! My motor had bearings on the back and front of the cam shaft! I haven't started my education on the internals of the motor in earnest...I know this motor has been rebuilt and with the Pistons at 40 over thought the cam might be toast?
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That bearing is at the cam bore backing plate
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Did some body work Sunday, I liked the results at the riser for the bed. The rot at the drain hole was below the drain and I cut the repair just above it.
I cut the floor out first, wider than the riser and then cut the riser just a little smaller. that way I could access with the cut off saw and then the welder.
Pics show the results.
I did leave the floor longer to give the body mount hole more stability.
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Picket up a nice tool this weekend and a Metal supply store of all places. Its kinda like a garage sale in side the store. As I was milling around I noticed this tool somewhat out of place.
Cash price out the door was 2 $20.00 bills.
Now I have no excuses to do proper maintanace on the axels!
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Great score. If I saw that I'd buy it just to sit next to the one I already have. I like 'em that much! Did it come with the dog bone too?
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No dog bone but I'm sure when they got it, it was just like I found it. Cool deal though even without the bone.
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Ordered the brackets, hats and rear valence yesterday from Classic and Walcks. If they come in by the weekend I'll have some good progress to show. I've decided to make my own rear tail light panels (I just need the parts just above the brackets due to rust through). how hard could it be???
Found a cool original rust free looks like 100% complete M38 here in Denison. Was showing a vacant house and there it was sitting all by its lonesome in a shed. That same jeep was sitting at the Old Hotel downtown Denison for years under a tarp.
then last year it was gone. Now I know it wase'nt sold but just moved to another property.
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I'm going to schedule showings at every vacant house in the state now.... :D
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Confirmed Fed ex and UPS will be delivering my body parts tomorrow. I feel like welding!
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Cool beans, the big brown truck came Friday with the parts from walcks and classic. I'm very impressed with the quality from both suppliers, especialy the hat channel from walcks! I got the weld together hat channel and set it in and guess what all the wholes did line up, the weld up left and right side hat has the pre-bent section which is just perfect. Cudos the Walcks for this part.
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Well it's been a while since I posted last so I thought I would update some of my work. Got some more work on the body done not much but enough to see that I need to hunker down and get it finished. Bought a extend a bed from a guy in Houston for a good price. It's a Koenig repop and very well made. So now I need to get my rear seat made as well that way I can make the Colorado falls color tour and carry passengers and still have room for the Texas size watermelons :D
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finished the Hubs ...ME LIKEY
keep up the good work... where can you get them lock outs at?
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the Hubs were on it when I acquired the jeep, but I have seen them occasionally doing searches for parts.
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mine are getting very wore and need attention thanks
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Well, I'm back with the jeep and working on the tub. I got the trans hump welded in and the passenger floor pan area that needed replacing. I had worried about how well I could get the hump reformed to accept piece that the PO had cut to make a larger access to the trans. but after some clamps and steel sandwich and dolly work not to mention the heat to help shrink up some and I CAN NOW BE CALLED MASTER OF NOTHING METAL WORKER. the only reason I needed so much work in this area is due to a log on a trail I was driving down decided to bounce up and hit the underside of the pan and make a really large dent where the trans hump and the pan meet. Lucky the trans cover was not on the jeep at the time other wise I would need to find a replacement. Ill get some completed photos today and post them but my work in from the bottom side with the tool box left in place.
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Also a blind squirrel get a nut every now and again! I just acquired a repo konieg exted-a-bed for cheap from a guy in Houston that is an old tractor refubisher and use to own some jeeps. Well I was on the 3B page and there was this add for this bed.
I happen to be in Houston that weekend for Thanksgiving and picked it up. Man I am so pumped about that purchase it is absolutely in prestine condition. I'll use it when we go on the Colorado Falls Color Tour. Also found a mechanic to get the machine work started. YEA
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Got some body work done today, cut out passenger floor and tacked in the replacement floor then I ran out of wire (dame I sure wanted to get all my welding done) but oh well. So I moved on to the tail light panels and fabed up both and since I'm no metal guy I can pat my self on the back they came out very good.
The panels were not hard at all to fab, I cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to my dimension for the panel and then measured and cut the metal. Once I got the metal cut I clamped it to the plywood and used a bfh to bend it over and it works out better than expected. I fit each side separately and clamped them on to see the fit on each side. Came out nice and I save lots of money by doing it this way. I then cut out the wheel well under the brace were there was rust through and fit a new piece there as well.
I'll pick up some wire tomorrow and get this jeep body moving in the direction it needs to go.
I did find a machinists to start the motor the rebuild, he rebuilt the dauntless in my dads CJ5 but I was not sure he wanted to take on this little motor. Seems he wants too.
I fired up the witches brew and derusted the Jerry can and holder. I left it in for 24 hours and that really made a huge difference. Finished with the pressure washer and primed and painted.
I have pics that will be uploaded tomorrow for all your viewing pleasure. It felt really good to get so much done today, it was raining most of the day but the temp was in the high 50's so it was perfectly fine in the shop.
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Looking forward to the photos. I like the rear extensions. Shoot a photo of that too.
Hawk
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Here are my pics of the work yesterday!
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I didn't get pics of the extension but will this evening for you.
I took it apart for storage, very interesting design.
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Those little butt end clamps from Harbor Freight are absolutely essential for this type of work, I was using magnets which would work ok but these little guys align and flush the piece your tacking in. They come in a pack of 8 and was $7.99, can't beat that with a stick!
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Hey Hawk, here are the pics of the extend-O-bed, I did assembled it to weld up some misc. holes but for a reproduction it is like brand-new, it will make a cool add to the Jeep.
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That extension looks unused. Very nice score. Do you think this Willys will be ready this fall?
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The other thing that caught my eye...the "flash rust" on your new steel. We are pretty lucky in Colorado. If the steel is stored indoors, that doesn't happen here.
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It came with the braces and the tail gate hinges but no tailgate. I placed it on my extra tub and the fit was spot on. It has one flaws to the left vertical side (short on some metal) but overall well made.
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That metal is about 5-6 years old and sat in my shop with no doors on it so it would get humid and wet inside. It was the left over sheet metal I used for my dads 66 tux. Everything is getting sandblasted so I'm not worried about it. if I had doors on the shop I wouldn't have bird poo all over dads Jeep either, but that should be solved shortly.
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Hawk, that's my goal is to complete Teddy and make it to the CFCT at the Thirsty Dirt Ranch in 2017! I have been cleaning, fixing and collecting all the parts for the last several years in anticipation of the rebuild, So all that needs to be done is body and engine rebuild.
It is much easier and faster putting together a completely cleaned up and bolt on ready parts in my experience. I should have the body ready for blasting by the end of Jan.- mid Feb.
That gives me all of the summer to finish the motor and assemble Teddy.
When Dad and I were at the FCT the 66 Tux ran very rough, so we changed out the V6 dauntless intake to a two barrel carb and it really like what we did. Also discovered that Dad had the wrong dist. cover which made the timing crappy now the Tux really purrs for an odd fire (very cool sounding motor).
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I'm not going for a perfect original recreation of a 51 CJ3A and I'm not to anal about perfection but body work will be very correct to original just because I like to make it look good so most of my time is to make it as good as I can make it.
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Weird, I posted some pics on a post and they just disappeared!
Oh well here are some pics of the work I did finished up the rear tub work and here are some pics for your viewing pleasure.
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That is weird. I remember seeing those photos before too.
I remember seeing the Tuxedo Park at the Fall Colors last year. Very nice rig.
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Well, it's been awhile life, liberty and the persuit of happiness kinda got in my way plus that enevitable wall we redo'ers of antique keeps. I've been working on some small parts like a $15.00 spartan turn signal rehabbed. Been waiting to get the motor block to the machinist and s.tart that process.
My buddy picked up a nice M38A1 that took away from some of teddys face time so we could get it running and stopping. Brought back my youth since that was what I drove all through high school.
Teddys body is really coming together, I should have it ready for the blaster in about two days of work. Picked up a nice spare net tire 7.00x16. My tires are 750x16 but will still look just fine hanging on the side of the jeep.
I'm still looking for a better hitch mine was bent and it would take some major work to straighten it out plus cost more than buying a use one!
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Once again I have come to post my progress. Well not much has happened but I have picked up a few parts. I bought a supersonic head for the motor rebuild paid $150.00 shipped to Texas from Rhode Island, man I�m happier than a deplorable after election night! Now I�ll have supersonic power and speed[ch129315]. Started cleaning up on the tub and found tons of bondo covering many oh *crap moments from Teddy�s past life. There will be many hammer and dolly nights to get it presentable. Need to weld up the last of the body parts before I turn it over and place t on the frame to align the hat channels and weld them on as well.
I�m looking into diy nickel plating my parts and seems to be doable with little effort and expense. I�ll let the word know how my wizardry and chemistry experiments turn out.
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I did a little DIY home Nickel Plating, I think I need some more practice and work on my spell formula for a good plating, but I think it will be good for the type of parts I'm doing. I may switch to the zink and see how that works for the parts as well.
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The secret to plating is, If you want shiny as chrome, it has to be polished as shiny as chrome before you plate.
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I used a wire wheel on the parts before plating. With the color of my jeep to be red and black it should be a nice contrast to the plating. I�m going for a Mat/brushed finish for the most part.
I will tel you guys that these parts were absoulotly rusted and I put them in muratic acid for just one hour and the rust was gone completely. It is now my new favorite was to clean parts.
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Thanks George, I grew up in Arlington and moved up to Lake Texoma. I know your area well, and I liked you rebuild. I come down to the metroplex every now and again, but prefer peeps to come and visit here (better Traffic less stress) ;D
good to see more North Texas folks.. Im in east texas. use to live in Duncanville. Got family in redoak and ferris.
We need a North Texas jeep meet lol
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I had a dim light bulb turn on in my head and decided to see if the extra motor I had is worth messing with. As it turns out the industrial motor I got with a trade of parts had low hours on it.
Took the head off and it is standard pistons and harden seats for the exhaust valves, not sure on the intakes. The motor before I took possession was siting in a horse barn. Spun freely and the water pump off it.
So one night after putting a parts list together for the other motors complete rebuild, I had read a post on someone trying to get there motor running after siting for 30 years. They were successful in their endever so I asked myself why not try the industrial motor.
The motor had a lot of mud and dirt due to it being on a water pump,lots of rust on the pan and timing cover, but I will use those parts from my 3 a motor.
I began to clean the outside with wire wheels and steel brushes and it really well.
Started to clean the inside of the block and what a mess of rust and scale, I mean a huge amount! I spent 2+ hours with compressed air and a long air gun blowing mountains of debis out of every opening. Unfortunately the motor only had two freeze plugs not four which made the blowing out the cavities difficult.
I have three motors one from my 2a parts jeep and the one from the 3a all of them have timing gears.
I plan to clean this industrial motor paint it on the stand, check the crank and rod bearings, lap the valves and close it up.
Once closed up I�ll flush the motor with vinegar and water then mount up all the goodies the make these cool little engine run.
If this motor runs with good compression I�ll install it on my rolling chassis and phase two in my double secret evil plan to build a farm jeep will be complete. So I�m hopeful that this will save some time and a rather large amount of money.
It�s a coin toss but what�s it hurt to clean up one of these motors and find out its a diamond in the ruff.
Let me know what you guys think?
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Dajeepman,
I plan to get the jeep done before the Colorado fall colors tour with mike38 and the rest of the gang of other flat fender maladjusted metal heads (some of the best bunch of guys and gals I�ve had the pleasure to meet) :). You should plan a trip at least once, it was jeep heaven!
There is a place in Munster, tx that 4x4 wheelers go on the red river, lots of trails and mud. They hold the rednecks with paychecks there every year.
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Working on the Lipstick on the Motor, I like a lot of contrast in the parts that attach to them. Metallic Gray engine color and gloss black for the other hardware.
I have a line on a blast cabinet which would save tons of time getting rusty parts cleaned. I have used various types of wire wheels and my witches brew to get the parts prepped for paint.
This blast cabinet will be a game changer!
Here are some pics of this weekends work.
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Why are you painting an engine that need cylinder work? Those cylinders are not ready to run, they're rusty.
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Actually, there�s no rust in the cylinders, that�s just the crap that i was blowing out of the block, plus I have a heavy coat of oil on it. I�ll wash it all of with some diesel after I finish checking the journals and the valve job.
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I've been working on the industrial motor putting it all back together. My first GoDevil L 134 build or as some say repair since its not a full rebuild!
It is such a simple motor with so may resources to make the motor come back to life.
I'm not doing a full machinest work with all new parts motor because this industrial motor was within spec on the rods and crank journels. I did brake it down all the way to clean it well and it just seemed much easyer to work on.
The work mainly consisted of replacing the valve guides, valves, cam bearing, all the studs except for the head studs. Also honed the cylinders, laped the valves, and polished the crank myself
I had to stop the assymbly because the rope seal and i did not see eye to eye in the installation, even after many tutorials from youtube, and all the other sites that we have, so I ordered Ron Fitzpatric crank seal for my own ease of installation.
I picked up the valves and valve guides from RockAuto (federal mogul) (I did not use any amix ada parts) with some other misc. parts needed, the cam bearing from Napa, and all the other parts and bolts resourced from local venders.
I removed the guides with hardend alltread worked perfectly, and made my own guide instalation tool from one of the old valves and a 1-1/8" pin from the transmission left over from that rebuild. I cut one of the valve guides to make the 1" and 1-5/16" depth guage and just slid them over the valve for the install worked pretty slick.
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As some can see, I installed the front mounting plate before the cam was installed, that is because I did not pull the cam gear off when it was disassembled. I had seen a F 134 rebuild that did the same thing so no harm no foul. I have also polished the crank with #400 wet/dry sandpaper using the shoelace method and polished the journals after with metal polish. before I install the crank after I get the crank seal, Ill give it another round of metal polish just before I clean and install it.
I'll take a pic of the North Texas engineered Valve guide installation tool it was easy to make from used parts.
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It's cleaning up pretty nice. Thanks for showing your progress.
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I'm about to meet up with cj2ajim from Baton Rouge to buy the 7.50x16 NDT's he had for sale on the 2apage. I may order 3 more of that type the a set of 5 or just one as a spare and one left over. I do plan on building a 2a for my Daughter. When she gets out of law school in four years that should give me enough time for that build. She was wanting an old truck but after driving the 66 CJ5 with the v6 dauntless and the trip for the next Falls Colors tour might get her into the jeepin. :D
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Well, I�ve been waiting to start back on the assimlbly of the motor but my rear seal has not made the jump from shelf stock to nessisary component in a motor... Dam, isure do wish I could believe that my skills were good enough the install the rope seal.
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The rubber rear seals have been the subject of much discussion. Many have had poor results.
When I rebuilt my engine, we decided to use a rope seal, and accept a couple drops of oil here and there.
At the time I called Midwest Military and he did not even sell the rubber seal....
Here is one discussion from the 2a forum. I'm sure google can find many more..
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/rear-main-seal-help_topic38251.html
And from the 3a forum
http://www.cj3apage.com/cgi-bin/3Ayabb26/YaBB.pl?num=1300476538
But, they are several years old. Maybe the seals have improved?
Even more here...
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/why-did-i-try-removing-the-rear-main-seal_topic39699.html
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I did try to install the rope seal had a socket that fit the radius fairly well not perfect and just didn�t get into the grove like I thought it should and began to flatten out before making a good seat.
I got my valves adjusted and installed the manifold studs, polished on the crank a little more so not to hold me up when I get the package from Ron F.
Also went through other parts that have been sitting completed for quite a while now to catalog where They are. It�s neat to go through parts that you rehabbed long ago.
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Did some engine work (not much) went ahead and adjusted the valves and put the exhaust studs in. put the valve cover on and wanted to see how the manifolds were going to look. Also got a pic of my DIY valve guide installation mechanical device, as you can see it comprises of a transfer case shaft and a old valve that was cut off then i took a old guide and cut to lenght for the right clearance. easy money!
See for yourself as to my great skills in photagraphy and mechanical profficency come together! :D......
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Cool tool. How did you stick the old valve to the bottom of the intermediate shaft? Looks too clean to be welded.
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On my drill press, I just used a corresponding bit and drilled about 3/4� into it, I was very surprised It had drilled pretty easy. Then cut the the spacers from the old guides then pounded the new guide with the correct length of spacer.
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Ok, The mail came in with the new crank seal and I'm back in business! Ya baby Ya...
So now i need to find the Time!
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Clever.
Did you have any mushrooming on the new guides? Or did they drive in fairly easy?
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No mushroom, I made sure the guide I cut for spacers were flat to the new guide and then pounded away, I�ve got the cam installed and the valves adjusted man what a difference.
It was almost like I knew what I was doing. Got Ron�s seal in but can�t get to for a few days to install the crank and button it up.
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Me so happy yesterday, got a lot done on the motor putting it together and started mounting all the little items that make it go varoom. I realized that I did not have enough new bolts and washers so next day to tractor supply for bulk bolts and washers I went.
Got the Head installed with the old new head gaskets I had. if they don't work ill go with copper one when the time comes.
I also was gathering the parts to mount stuff on with and realized there were some of them that didn't get cleaned up!
So now that I have the nice and very usefull blasting cabinet that work will be easy breezy.
And the big bonus of the year was as I was looking at the mounting of the alternator, I was pondering the thought of making on of the generators I have 12 volt to keep the look of originality! Well under two old transmissions and a lot of misc. unused parts from the 2A parts jeep, there it was a Delco Remy 12 volt Generator :D :o :D Holy @%&$! can this be any more fun to wrench on these things!
I had traded a 2A windshield for some parts jeep and this was in with all the misc. stuff that was with it, and that included the motor that I just put back together.
Remember kids never throw out a part that you think you may use or trade for something that you need. That Generator must have sat under all those parts for 5 years.
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I too like the old style look of the generators. In fact, I think I cry just a little when I see an alternator hooked up to these old engines. That said, I get it. An alternator is a far better charging system...
...for a Toyota Corolla. ;)
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So I took the generator to the alternator guru, and he checked it on his big electronic voltage magnometer and popcorn popper.
The good news was it checked out to be in perfect shape and producing and it top end of output. BUT, the bad was it is only a 20 amps generator which must have been on a gen set or some other industrial setup.
So I ask you in the Flat fender world what would you do! I myself are going to clean it and mount that wimpy output generator and call it a day.
I can have my 6volt gen redone for $130.00 wired up to 12volt and 45 amp if I want. Not a bad price. So my plan would be is to use the wimpy 20 amp then get this thing done and have a back up done when I finish the build for backup!
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With my fine new to me red snap-on blasting cabinet I pulled out my generator mounts for both the 2a and the one one the industrial motor and spent 10 minutes cleaned them up and also blasted the bell housing mounting plate primed and painted.
If any of you guys like hard work and getting greasy dirty using wire wheels,for all that is holy don�t by a blasting cabinet! Talk about beyond nice that is the shiznic.
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I have completed phase 2 in my double secret evil plan to complete Teddy by the 2018 Colorado Falls color tour!
The motor is installed and parts that have been sitting on a shelf (some for 3+ Years now) are are getting moved to the pre op table and getting mounted to the motor.
Now I get to tackle the PTO winch shaft and exhaust mock-up and find the best way to route all of that. Then mount the rear PTO gear and tackle that as well....
But first thing first and get the motor items buttoned up and start the dam thing to make sure that my overly optimistic skill level hasn�t reached the critical mass.
I did have a good day with the jeep installing the motor with no help, took about 30 minutes and no oh *crap moments! Now where did I put the engine stay cable? :o ::)
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Here is some eye candy for the hearing impaired!
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before and afters
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Very nice....the contrasting colors really dress it up..
I keep seeing another jeep in the background of your pictures...???
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Very nice....the contrasting colors really dress it up..
I keep seeing another jeep in the background of your pictures...???
HMMM Mebbe the Tux Pk that we pulled the tow bar off of to get RedWilly outa Tin Cup??
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Yep, that�s the 66 Tux from in my first post on this thread and from Tin Cup/Selector shaft Falls color tour field expedient tow rig. :) :D
That was a epic trip with my dad.
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Going to roll the jeep out into the sunshine this weekend and give him a nice bath, wash alll the dust and grime that has settled in for the past 2 years and get this motor started as soon as I can. 8-)
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So last night I wanted to turn the motor over and check the oil pressure to make sure it was coming up on the guage.
I got my battery and connected the starter and pressed the button and nada! but could tell there was some kind of binding or something not right. I tried to turn the crank and nada! What the Hell!
Teddy is locked up tighter than * hatband! well Q#$*! I cant believe I messed up stabbing the motor in because I was able to turn the flywheel to line up the splines and just guided it in and locked down the bolts, no worries.
So i just looked at the motor and thought well its not the clutch plate, when i was 16 and replaced the clutch in the M38A1 i put it in backwards and would not make that mistake again, so it had to be the flywheel/crank/pilot bushing/transmission?
To make this a short conversation (not) i dropped the Trans/tranfer case which had no binding at all when i pulled it away from the motor and no signs of distress.
What I will tell you is that it was for some reason locked up and would not spin. it had been sitting for however long before i bought it from a guy (newly rebuilt and prestine) 6-7 years ago.
also i keeped fresh oil in it and turned it on ocasion to keep it oiled. So the thing being locked up made no sence as it was fine when it went into the frame.
So as to what it was stuck from no telling, i will tell you that I got the old clutch plate to fit it on and work it back and forth and guess what that dam thing broke free and was a smooth as a prom queens thighs.
I went ahead a took the thans top off to check the condition and it was like it just came off the showroom floor.
So back on the motor and stabbed motor a second time and tried the crank YE HAW we have liftoff! that motor turned over and was spinning like she meant it.
I attached the wires back to the starter and pushed the the starter button and she spun over like it was new! Yaaaaaaa. Oil pressure did not register (dam) what now! ok maybe this old guage didnt work (yes thats it) so i installed the new one on the side of the motor and Houston we have lift off! oil pressure came up to 10 psi just from the starter rpm's and plugs out. OKie Dokie.
All this took place in about an hour and a half. Pull trans out diagnose issue, fix issue, install trans back, Cross fingers after trans (turn crank after every bolt tightened!) and then starter sowed proof of life. Old man dancing a jig again.
Moral of the story? check your transmission that has been sitting for over a year just before you mate the motor and trans together so you dont need to see if you remember how to disassemble the whole contraption :'( :-[ :P >:(
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Here is the front end Friday pics early or late however you roll!
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Yesterday, I got the ups box with the gen bushings and carb kit. Got to work on some engine stuff now. I had to come up with a bushing to mount the gen so it would line up with the pullys so once I got the bushings in and the rear bolt on, I could make up the difference. I took a piece of 1/2" steel rod and cut it to 1 3/4" then I drilled out the middle to 5/16"for the 2 1/2" grade 8 bolt to go thru. I lined up the gen and needed just a little shaved off the bushing. I made and then bolted it all together. The belt didn't come in with the stuff I ordered so ill need to wait on the results of the aligenment !
I made up a temp dash for the gauges ( Oil and Temp ) cut up an old hwy sign for the plate and drilled two holes for the gauges. then mounted it to the bell housing and tested the guages for operation all good there. I'm thinking on putting a key switch for ease of starting and operation in driving the running chassis phase of this build, easy on easy off once the body is ready to mount.
Now i need to work out a seating arrangement and peddle configuration to operate this jeep while sitting down to drive it.
I got some Dot 5 silicone brake fluid to get the brakes up and going and i guess i didnt do a very good job in tightening the lines cause fluid was leaking everywhere. so i went through and tightned all the lines again and i couldnt get to the bleeders (Dam Omix ada products!) those bleeders were of a metric size and i think they are 6.5mm. i had to take off the rear wheel and remove the cylinder to get the bleeder of so i can get new ones that will work better. Ill need to do all four wheels with that mess.
one good deal with that brake mess was that the master cylinder i rebuilt with a kit is working very well. so the brakes should be good to go when i get them bled. I do think that a duel master cylinder is a good idea and im thinking on changing to it for the safety of brakes.
I remember in high school my m38a1 losing brakes and pummping those silly single master as fast as i could to help stop before i ran into the back of a car. I got Lucky!
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Very nice progress!
Going to roll the jeep out into the sunshine this weekend and give him a nice bath,
It is amazing how filthy the nicely restored work gets while working on the rest of it.
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Yep my shop gets quite dirty, I don�t have any roleup doors so dust and all manner of things come on in. I�ll think I�ll get then put up this year!
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All righty then, as I was working in the shop the mail man came cruzin by with my box from Rock Auto with the fan belt in it.
So hell, let�s get this party started! The belt was a perfect fit with my 12 volt gen. As I had been getting fuel lines run and gauges hooked up this past week and making sure oil is pressurizing.
Oh, I also rebuilt a glass bowl fuel pump cause my new old pump wouldn�t do it�s job, I had 3 glass bowls all of which are in various conditions. One made in the U.S. was like new (I have no clue to how I got it) it had a bad diaphragm and one of my off brands had a good diaphragm so I made up a fuel pump from all the used pumps and I have cool glass bowl fuel pump installed and working like a charm.
So once the pump got figured out I pumped gas to the carb and switched the key on and pressed the starter and Teddy started to sputtter and cough and started running!
The motor didn�t want to run but it idled perfect. Hum! Ok carb rebuild was a bust! No that went good? Maybe! Pulled the carb top off checked the adjustments no joy but it did run better with the top part off! Hum! So working the choke looking at it from a different angle I noticed it had the flap upside down or wrong angle it stayed closed not open on the carb. Ok so I changed that most obvious mistake put the carb back and still no acceleration to the running motor.
At this point the motor seemed to be running hotter than it should so I took a break for lunch. Thought about it while eating and ok it needs the be timed. So back up to the shop and I adjusted the new electronic distributor and man did it run like a bat out of Hell!
Remember I have a Supersonic Head on this motor so it should blow the dooors off any competition.
So I have proof of life of a running and fully operational Willy�s Cj3a chassis. Vidio coming soon to a theater near you.
Of course I was watching the oil pressures and temp but it was not good. Way to low for what it should be, I had put the old oil pump back, so I took it off and installed a new oil pump that I got from some parts trading. Got the timing right on the second try and oil pressure up to 20 psi at hot idle, so I am fully 100 percent done with my first L134 motor rehab.
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Splendid.. :D
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Proof of Life.
Had to rebuild a glass bowl fuel pump because the new old pump i had on it gave up on its only job. Glass bowl pumps are really easy to work on.
Disclaimer: No animals except beef cows, wild hogs and fowel of both water and land, were hurt in the making of this video. all references to anyone or anything were made in comidic releif.
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Ok so I cant get the video uploaded for proof, you'll have to trust me! ::)
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Well, I have a minor set back, the motor tics away like a clock and I�m very pleased with the way it�s running, BUT... I have a substantial water leak on three of the header bolts mainly the ones I had to helicoil. And also that stupid crown head gasket has a slight weeping coming out of two interior head bolts.
So I will need to take the intake and exhaust headers off for sure and reseal those studs. I�m thinking of removing the helicoils and using JB weld to insert them and then find some other sealer for the studs? I used permitex 2 on the coils and studs but I must not have given it the proper torx. Live and learn.
What would you guys do here?
Inquiry minds want to know!
I also jacked up the rear end on stands and ran the transmission thru all the dears and I must say it was really smooth. No noise, or vibrations and the clutch was spot on. Bleed the brakes with one pint of silicone brake fluid (I�m a big fan of that now it will not eat you paint).
I�ll mount a seat. And drive Theodore around the property for some brake-in time before the body is done.
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JB weld, while it's good stuff it doesn't like heat.
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Almost ready for the open road, need to get some cornhead grease for the front knuckles and should be good to go. One more time to go thru the check list, lube chart, oil levels, grease, nuts and bolts tightened,
Ladys and Gentelmen, please keep your hands and feet in the vehical at all times vehical is moving :D!, incase of an emergency please refer to the chart below the seat, all objects not tied down will be lost forever! ;D
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I was gonna call "shotgun" BUT......... :D
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It may be around July before it has two seats but if you want to come down to Texas were it was almost 80 degrees today, I�ll forsure let you drive it. I�ll even throw in a stripper fishing trip. The clutch is smooth and the brakes are hard. It�s whisper quite and has that unique Willy�s fan sound that makes it the one and only JEEP.
Come hell or high water, I�ll have it at the Colorado Falls Color Tour!
Tomorrow is
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Ok, mother nature still is not letting me drive the motor around the property! Its been raining on and off again all day, I cant even do stuff on my boat..... >:(
Rain Rain go away, little Johnny wants to play! Damit!!
So I talk to Darrell, which is the guy who is painting the jeep for me, at no cost (helped him install the heads in his 33" sea ray), He owns a Auto body shop in sherman, and i just need to get the parts in primer after the body work of course and that would be part three of my double secret evil plan.
Has anyone heard of the water base auto paint? I'll need some info on that because I was going with a urethane.
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:D :), I�m a happy camper! Drove Teddy around the property and even ran down our main road a ways until I see the gas can running low, wow these motors really suck the gas! S went thru all the gears and reverse as well, checked out high and low gears. I find that I have done well on the pumpkin rebuilds. Couldn�t hear any crazy noises that may indicate that I didn�t read and understand how it all went back together :).
So I will start back on the body this weekend and pound some 67 year old steel back into shape!
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Ordered the Tailgate repair section (A) type from Gary in Oregon today. the tailgate was not too rusty but it was crushed in next to the hinge and the crease was to dramatic the get out. So just as well to get one and help out a fellow jeeper making their own parts.
Started back on my tub work and grind, grind and grind!
I need to get more gas to weld so grinding and dolly work are whats in order this week.
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Ordered the Tailgate repair section (A) type from Gary in Oregon today. the tailgate was not too rusty but it was crushed in next to the hinge and the crease was to dramatic the get out. So just as well to get one and help out a fellow jeeper making their own parts.
Started back on my tub work and grind, grind and grind!
I need to get more gas to weld so grinding and dolly work are whats in order this week.
I used one of his repair sections also...turned out nice...
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Hello all you old iron loving Jeepers!, I have been working on the tub and deciding how to attack the body, fenders tailgate and windshield. there is much to do to this one which had way to much bondo filler but its doable to my liking.
I pulled the fenders out which are 2A's in like new condition but have stress cracking that I welded up the grill is ready as you can see on the jeep but the tailgate has damage so I ordered Garys in Oregons' repair section that should be here in about 5 days. that is all it needs with a little dolly work.
the windshield needs just a little more attention but I had done most of that a year ago.
Now on to the body! I have had it sitting upside down working on the floor and rear sections now for about a year. I've started the grinding down of the welds, and have one more small patch under the hat channel at the tool box, once that's done in can weld up the hat channel.
On the firewall i decieded to cut out the area where the steering and brake access is and use a section from one of the donor jeeps that which was in great shape and not all * up from bubba. (see Pictures) With that done i still have quite a few various size holes to patch up on the firewall mostly screw holes but I'll need some bigger sizes as well.
Note to self! need gas for welder and cutoff disks so a trip the harbor freight is in order.
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The patch in the pics came from a 2A that I had, it was cut in half and the dash was missing, but it has a good transmission hump and I thought it would come in handy (once again kids, don't throw the part away when your through with them someone else may need it) :D
You can see the body #121970 clearly in the picture from the donor, not sure what year it was all the data tags were gone.
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Although that ACM number is not listed on the 2A DATA Base, it is close enough to other ACMs to suggest that your donor tub was originally part of a 1947 2A.
Are you going to leave the ACM number on the gusset? If you do, you will drive future historians crazy. :o I have certain 2A features on my wife's 3A that would cause a few 2A/3A gurus to wonder what they really have. For example, I have the same captive nuts around my brake cylinder access hole. This is a 2A thing. 3As just used sheet metal screws. I also installed a 2A tool box instead of a 3A tool box. Good times.
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You bet I am, Hawk there is a lot of borrowed metal on this tub from the 2a, the one problem I ran into is trying to do the same on my passanger fender. I just can�t bring myself to destroy the perfect 2a fender for the aesthetics of the jeep. I have be searching for a 3a/3b fender for a while now.
The grill is from my 2a but I took off the fan shroud and installed the the shroud from the 3a with the side mount bolts. You can�t tell the difference at all.
I�m working on the firewall today, welding and grinding and patching holes and should get to that replacement of metal with the body number on it.
I really need to find a way to grind welds that are in a tight corner. Short of buying that air sander from harbor freight I�ve been using my drimmal tool with grinding stones.
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Ok, so this weekend I spent most of it working 57 year old metal., so I would weld and going, then weld and going some more. Took a break at 3pm to go to the boat dock and cought about a dozen crappy, for a fish fry. Came back a 6ish and started grinding and welding again til 10pm. This was a good day. Lots accomplished on the body, and now I will get the hat channel welded up before I flip it and work the top side.
I plan to make a jig for the layout of the hat channel holes from the frame and just drill the holes back into the body where I replaced the floor boards
I don�t see any issues with this method unless someone has a better idea?
So today I was jeep wrenching and crappy fishing![ch129315][ch128526]
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And her are the pics of the work, I will say that wearing hearing protection is a must for grinding metal! Lots of metal ;) :D.
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Ok sports fans, I have not spent very much time on Teddy as of lately, mostly due to a 16' flatbed utility trailer that I got and that needed to be completely gone through. I finished the trailer and now I have no other pressing projects that go in front of Teddy. So it will be back to the body once again and welding and grinding, welding and grinding......