My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your CJ-3A Project => Topic started by: athawk11 on April 02, 2013, 02:01:41 PM
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1949 Willys CJ3A #13655
This may be a slow transformation, and perhaps a refurbishment verses an all out restoration.
This Willys is for my wife Rachel. She wants a "Thrasher". Definition: A fairly correct Willys she can take to the market, or the mountains, and not have to worry about scratching the paint.
Her demands are few. She wants it to be painted a very pale yellow and she wants one of those yellow Smiley Face tire covers. So, when you all start thinking I've lost my mind, this is why.
Here it is...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1725.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jD4s6)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/spotlight-cj3a.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDIUM)
My wife calls it "Whitey". Well, I guess the wheels are kind of white.
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1949 Willys CJ3A #13655: Entry 2
Whitey doesn't have a warm place to rest so it's been a little challenging getting the project going...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/2013-03-23_13-09-30_132_zps9061307e.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDE5U)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1706.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jD6gy)
My first step is to get this running and stopping. I need this to move under its own power. If I can get it to move around my property, it should make it a bit easier.
Warmer weather comes and goes. I was able to assess the condition a little further. Area below the homemade gas tank...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1728.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDtJ2)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/20130506007_zps727d6ed4.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jD5Fa)
Here is the tank. Guy did a pretty good job, but it's just not going to work for me...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1727.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDbdg)
I repaired an old tank from my other 3A and installed it. The fuel line and the old pump were no good.
I installed a glass top pump. Pretty sure it's not correct for a 3A, but again, this Willys is going to have a big yellow smiley face on it.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/20130323004_zps00945880.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDujl)
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1949 Willys CJ3A #13655: Entry 3
Maiden voyage.
https://youtu.be/-GDt8J8eENw
Now that I can move her around, it's time to see what I can do to make it safe ...and pale yellow.
The floors are a disaster. (See the photos in the last entry) I hooked up with a local Willys guy named Wally. He had a full front floor panel that he is willing to sell. (We are negotiating the price) I may be able to do something with a new floor panel. I consider it the "spine" of the Willys tub. If you have the spine, you at least have a starting point.
Time to find out what condition the rest of the panels are in. I want to offer a tip...A really quick and easy way to remove all the bondo from your tub...Air hammer with a chisel attachment.
Photo of the Willys after all the bondo has been removed. See it all over the concrete?
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1717.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDBvt)
I've easily removed 30 lbs of the stuff. There are some pretty rough areas on the side panels, but surprisingly, very manageable regarding rust through.
It's just been beat to crap.
Other sheet metal parts like the fenders, windshield and grille, look to be fairly easy to repair. The hood is questionable. I've decided to start with the tub.
Decision time...New tub? Repair the existing? 18 gauge steel for the repairs, or 16 gauge repairs? Stay tuned.
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Tim, I enjoyed following your other jeep revival on the 2A page. This should be fun to watch too!
Do you know if that old fuel pump was original? I've never seen a shallow dome top like that.
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Nate,
Thanks for taking a look.
This is the first fuel pump of this style that I've seen on a 3A. I'm enclined to think it's not original. I posted the photo in hope that someone would comment on it. I know you've been working on gathering information about the engine bolt ons. I figure you'll have an answer before I do. ;)
Tim
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That is a great thread, Tim. Don't stop. I'm looking forward to reading more about your work with the "Thrasher."
My 3A came from the PO with a shallow top fuel pump just like the one you show in the photo. I know it is not correct for my 1951 3A, but I'm not sure what it is correct for, if anything.
George
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Nate,
Thanks for taking a look.
This is the first fuel pump of this style that I've seen on a 3A. �I'm enclined to think it's not original. �I posted the photo in hope that someone would comment on it. �I know you've been working on gathering information about the engine bolt ons. �I figure you'll have an answer before I do. ;)
Tim
The '49s are funny. Some have 2A engines, some don't. Willys was just using up the old 2A stuff that would fit. Does this one have the brass foot with a 2A engine? Hard to tell from you pic. Are your hood blocks off centered too? The ones on my '49 are because that is how the 2A hoods were.
Can you take a picture of the inside of the pump with the to off it? I'd be curious to see what the inside looks like. I'm not an expert in the bolt on engine parts, though I do try to play one on tv. �;D
BTW, a glass bowl is correct for a '49. That is what mine had on it originally.
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Looks like a good start!!!!!! �[smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif] [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
You do good work, this'll be interesting!!!
Thrasher huh? I reckon my lil' ole willys can relate � :)
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Hey, check this out....
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/20130402001_zps99e1527f.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDxC8)
These are just a few of the bondo chunks I knocked off. I don't want to offend anyone here. Quite frankly, I'm all for using body filler to smooth out a dimple or 'slight' depression, but seriously, these chunks are a 1/2" thick.
Just thought you guys would get a kick out of it. :)
Tim
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George, gmcjr, thanks for looking in. I always appreciate your comments and thoughts.
Nate, this is a hodge podge. The engine is not original to this Willys, so I have no idea how it was originally set up. But now it has a 3A engine block...2A front engine plate...mounted on a 3A frame...no brass foot. Looks like an 'S' shaped home made bracket. You can kind of see it here in this photo...
For those of you that have interest, here is a photo of the brass foot that Nate is refering to. This allows a 2A engine with 2A front plate to be mounted on the 3A frame...and vice versa...3A engine and plate to be mounted on a 2A frame...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xfdieusFSL2kqx2-g3IyXg-JMstXZqPMQFj61ixHEWRxh15oSugRz6fP699ZgwCDUIP5UL3Y4bbaT5a21V7ECgBbbSFIHnP1dSPiwhUNayDKGbOmpgOT-ql5P3_x1NVdXfkKO8PaqeeD9WkCNDlI3AVnj6H-M4_yCg_KEwu1hW6EaqTmJMBGxEy8iUgX-MWBUKyxittD5mL-QIDVFuy2A5RZSmTrHVvSWQuvmB8hB1WcQFC5yxOLexJF4-CF4PMfxq44vB6e7ha2-HE39YkaiasfzB8RFY0lngfmKzOFJG-28HmzLVSTDOW0HDunca9FZeXPXM0gd-fVmLQTl3GNzEtLxqZhqDBCWk8am-MTqtPWNOhJ8KN56HHxihRohuh9YANA5is_Gqr6zGN9uwkBIujKBzYUZX_f7maUKrDko9GX_NCc0FEeXQFNv2QYrsRp5JXaafqLe5riWKJ0tfvm6Fx8n7ZarWsBdJgfB9Dl4x2fO0Bc8Ioh_Bv3jfeZD27gle_AenUW7702FLC5fDY1U8y5IfxBk6NE_rq_nN_KpnxbaC8v3obv0LMJ_tNlE2RxPjHxtGCBISndfODgpv2CbagbCoHYEd9m2vQjjjbt4qQ5HsuqQw3gBWHTp9wRWyl1VGeC1DZUY4FRSOkzAewfRNCu0Fom9vr1qzNmpwcqHuBriQ=w1024-h576-tmp.jpg)
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Yeah, I'd say bubba did some work to that jeep!
I've seen bondo like that. Kind of funny the stuff bubba does to make his jeeps look nice. 8-) ;D
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Tim, I had some bondo that thick on one of the rear fenders of my Model A when I first bought it. One morning I drove down to the cluster mailboxes to get my newspaper and I heard this rattle coming from the back of the car. I got out, walked back, and a whole slab of bondo that thick had come loose on one side and was rattling like crazy. I pulled it off and it must have weighed a pound or two. I could hardly believe it. That fender ended up getting replaced.
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Here's another "You might be a Jeeper if...." :
"When preparing your wife's ride, even though it may end up as a bit of a salad with a yellow smiley face, you decide that authenticity trumps safety and immediately remove her roll bar." �;D ;D ;D
Good thread Tim. I enjoyed the 2A journal and am glad to see the 3A sequel.
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Ryan...seriously...have you ever considered Willys standup comedy? You always seem to come up with stuff that gets a good laugh out of me!!
No offense to anyone here with my next comment. It's a personal preference. I just don't think a flat fender Willys looks right with a roll bar. The removal of them has been the first thing I do. Speaking of that, does anyone have a use for 2 old roll bars!! ;)
Tim
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Can't agree with you more Tim! Roll bars on flattys just doesn't look right.
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""No offense to anyone here with my next comment. It's a personal preference. I just don't think a flat fender Willys looks right with a roll bar. The removal of them has been the first thing I do. Speaking of that, does anyone have a use for 2 old roll bars!! Wink
Tim ""
I have a great use for it. Scrap steel is running about 180+ a ton= more money for jeep restoration. :)
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I have yet to put a roll bar on my 3B, though there is one resting in the loft of my garage.
I will have to put it on to go to the off-road parks around here.
There's no public land near here where you can go au naturel so I have to get that roll bar on.
but it'll come back off for parades and such.
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Things have been moving so quickly lately I missed this thread entirely. I wish we had a view new threads since your last visit option, I haven't found it anyhow.
Tim, we appreciate your putting this in the right spot here, but seriously we aren't going to really get down on anyone who posts in the wrong place , we just move the post and change their member name. Well, I am kidding about the last two. The only place we really do a lot of serious moderation is in the FAQ section, as that is where we hope people will go for answers first.
As far as roll bars.....Two of them placed opposite to each other make a decent set of sawhorses....or you could use them to make a workbench with a little more welding. But if you plan on going on any organized trail rides in certain areas jeep clubs require a roll bar, as useless as it may or may not actually be.
Ryan, go ahead and put that quote in the You might be a jeep nut thread..... ;D ;D ;D
That floor sure was hacked... still not unsaveable. Especially if being stock is not a concern. What has your wife requested for seating ??
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Bill, I almost missed your question...Rachel is a smidge over 5'8" tall. She hopes to have the 3A seat frames and the extra space and comfort they offer.
It's been difficult getting started on this project. Colorado refuses to let spring arrive. April has offered nearly 30" of snow. The majority of the initial work will need to be performed outside.
A couple weeks back, I was able to find a loaner tub. The condition isn't much better than what I've started with, but there are a few pieces that can be used. I paid $200.00 for it....
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1714.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jD7LA)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1705.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDUWF)
This is a late 2A tub. Once I got it home, I found a couple old heaters stashed under the dash.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1710.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDKjD)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1713.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDNyH)
Some of the parts that are salvageable include at least one wheel house top, the transmission tunnel, the cowl top, the rear floor and one rear quarter panel. Here, I've started to disassemble the loaner tub.
The rear floor is pretty rough, but I think I can save it
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1709.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDTgc)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1707.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDM7f)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1708.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jD1JL)
It doesn't look like Willys Overland bothered to paint the underside of the toolbox.
I've got some stuff pulled apart. Repairs to the individual pieces should be easier than trying to fix them on an assembled tub.
I picked up a sheet of 16 gauge steel from my local steel yard. I've re-stocked my welding and cleaning supplies.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1703.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jDeqo)
Okay, Where do I start? (This is a rhetorical question!)
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Nice supply of parts!
You need benchmarks to build from. For me it was the tailgate frame/rear valance and the floor riser. These bolt securely to the frame and give you places to build from...or to...
Can't wait to see the progress!
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I got the donor tub apart. Looks like it was originally a Patomac Grey 2A.
I'm starting with the rear floor. I'm going to make a new riser.
Did I mention the 16 gauge sheet of steel cost me $58.00 with tax? I'll be able to do a lot of repairs for $58.00.
The floor is badly warped. There are some serious rust issues. In another time and place, this would be heading to the scrap yard, but a new riser and rear floor will cost me a minimum of $400.00 to $500.00. This is a $1,000.00 Willys. I have a hard time justifying a new floor for this Willys, but I've just got to have the ribs. Call me crazy.
(https://s20.postimg.org/5fyqlr7l9/D9_DA755_E-2_A8_B-4478-_B9_A6-2555229_CF812.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Some tools of the trade. I make my own dollies out of heavy steel bar stock like this.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/26/IMG_1697.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGQHQ)
I cut them to a manageable size, then shape them for a specific purpose. Most of the Willys sheet metal is flat. This is an inexpensive approach. It allows me to avoid spending $200+ on a decent hammer/dolly kit. Here is one I shaped to fix up the dented ribs in the cargo area and wheel house tops.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130427001-1_zps5f384fa8.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/vIky)
I'm using a scrap Wheel house top for some of my patches. Should work out okay.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130427002_zps7a745eeb.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/v6X6)
And so it begins. Welding patches, grinding, hammer and dolly work.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130427003_zps411ed4bc.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/vL6M)
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Now that looks familiar!
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'55CJ-5,
Right now, it seems you and I are the ones stuck beating the c&#p out of Willys sheet metal. You've got a good jump on me. If I could just get the weather to cooperate. We just received an additional 5-6" of snow. Will spring ever come? :-/
Tim
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I'll be joining you guys in the tub salvage game.
Tim, I'll send you some warm weather. It is 70 here and very sunny.
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Thanks Nate. I could use some sunshine. We are suffering through a drought situation here, so we really do need the moisture, but I would prefer rain by this time of the year.
Tim
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Okay Gents, I've got some updates to share.
Through this process, I have often thought that buying a new tub would have made more sense. The PO was a welder, but he wasn't a primer/painter.
As this Willys rotted away, it made sense to the PO to just weld new plate steel right over the rusty cancer. There are places on this tub that have 3 layers of sheet metal. I am literally having to peel back the layers on this onion.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1672.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGCWN)
I've got the donor floor all patched up...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1693.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGoje)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1685.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGXy0)
I made some hat channels for the cargo area. I primed the surfaces and welded them on.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1688.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGlbi)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1687.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGjFu)
With the donor tub and the original rear panels, I was able to salvage enough to patch, cut, weld, and hammer/dolly them into shape.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1668.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGSqJ)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1667.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGV3V)
I'm now working on the wheel houses. I have one decent 2A wheel house and one decent 3A wheel house. This is going to be a "Thrasher", but I just can't have mismatched wheel houses. I don't want to be called "Bubba" by the next owner. So, what to do?
Time to modify the 2A wheel house to match. But how? More to come.
Tim
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That really looks good! Are you sure you don't want to come over here and finish mine?
How did you make those hat channels? They look like 16 ga....
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I was trying to get you over here!!
The hat channels are 16 gauge. I clamp the steel between two heavy chunks of 3" angle, heat them up a little, then beat the crap out of it. These channels were my first attempt using this process. They aren't perfect, but heck, they are on the underside. As I make additional patch panels, my approach has gotten better.
Thanks for taking a look.
Tim
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Well, they look pretty good! I used the angle iron-hammer method but only with 18 ga and no heat...
You know, by the time you are nearly finished your patching skills get pretty good...when I look back on my first patch or two I kinda wish I could re-do them. But, that's what it's about...it's a learning process...
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I dimly remember saying something about those first patches looking worse and worse as you learn more and more.. :D
But that is why you need a second jeep. Just come on down to Bill's home for wayward jeeps and we will hustle out another project for you to use your finely honed new skills on. ;D
Remember when the job looked impossibly huge? And now...you are nitpicking the small stuff. Thumbs up for a job well done.
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On my green Willys, I found that the biggest learning curve for me was the welding and hammer/dolly work.
On welding, I was either too hot (burn a hole) or too cold (no penetration). Dialing in on that skill had me replacing much of the work I had done.
The other challenge was the hammer/dolly work. I tended to grow impatient. The hammer blows grew more powerful. But in the end, that helped me learn how to shrink metal.
These days, I find hammer/dolly work to be 'therapeutic'. I can pound away all day long, then wonder where the time went.
Tim
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Tim
It looks just great. After seeing what you've done I think I should have another look at my original tub.� �;D.
Can you share your method for shrinking metal.� I've made a very lame attempt at times and always given up.
Steve
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Steve,
Thanks for looking in.
I shrink metal with a torch, a bucket of water, and a rag.
Initially, I used a little LP plumbers torch. It took a while to heat up, so I eventually switched to an acetylene set up.
I hold the heat in one small area (about the size of a dime) until the metal glows orange. I quickly grab the soaking wet rag and put it on the spot. You will often feel the metal contract under your hand. I will then lightly hammer/dolly the spot to smooth and flatten it while the metal is still a little warm.
This is where the 'skill development' comes into play. Depending on how large an area you need to shrink, you may be done, or you may need to continue with the heat-n-shrink-hammer-n-dolly process. If the area is large, I start in the middle with the heat-n-shrink. I will continue this process, spiraling outward, until I am satisfied it's flat and smooth with no more puckers (oil canning). The distance between the spots you heat up can vary based on the amount of metal that needs to be shrunk, but generally my heat spots are about 1" to 1 1/2" apart. I sometimes need to go back into the middle of my spiral and 'hit' certain areas again.
Over shrinking is possible. If you go too far, you can easily hammer-n-dolly it out a bit.
Hopefully this makes sense.
Tim
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Tim,
Thanks for the explanation...I've tried it with a small bernzomatic type torch with little success. Then I tried a MAP torch, and that works a little better...but, maybe I need to try an acetylene torch? I think the MAP gets pretty hot but the flame is pretty widely dispersed. And, from your description, I'm not getting it hot enough.
Some of the forums suggest using dry ice as the cooling source, but I've been using the wet rag as you suggest.
Of course I don't have an acetylene set-up.....maybe there is a pin-point tip for the MAP torch...
Randy
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Hi Randy,
I found a pin point torch at Ace Hardware, but I'm sure there are other suppliers. That was one of the keys when I was still using the small torch...a very direct, undispersed flame. Otherwise, you're sitting there for what seems likes eternity.
The acetylene set up is very fast. I learned quickly that I have to be careful. I burned a couple holes right through on my first few attempts.
Tim
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It's been a while since I offered any updates. The tub is still the priority.
I have one wheel house from the 2A tub and one from the original 3A that are usable. I will need to modify the 2A wheel house. Both the length and the angles at the front will need to be adjusted...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1659.md.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGLRe)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1658.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGbu0)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1663.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGt1q)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1662.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGImi)
Just like everyone that takes on a tub, the front panels below the cowl are a mess. I will need to perform more surgery...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1650.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jG08o)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1657.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGuzQ)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1656.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jG4tu)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1652.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGhSf)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1651.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGnrF)
Time to make the floor pans. I used 16 gauge for these...
To bend the flanges, I used a couple heavy pieces of angle bolted together with the panel sqeezed in between. I then heated the metal and used a hammer to bend then into shape...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1646.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGGRD)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1644.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGBAL)
Time to shape them to the existing tranny hump. I clamped them in postion, traced, cut, then welded them up...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1645.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jG3ec)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1641.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGDlA)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1636.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGO3g)
OOPs. Forgot. Prior to welding the pans, I needed to properly position the hat channels. This kit requires assembly. I put the tub on the frame, then aligned the channels to the frame mounting holes and the tub...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1639.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGJuH)
I clamped the channel pieces together, then welded them up...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1638.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGww8)
Once they were welded, I put the tub back on, then positioned the channels...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1637.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGkA2)
I marked the channel position, then primered them and the underside of the tub where the channels will be welded. I put some effort into taping off the weld points. I've used this approach before. I don't know if it will help the tub last longer. I doubt I will be around to find out...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1633.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGFHU)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1631.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGrbt)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1632.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGiRl)
Time for a lot of plug welding...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1629.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGPlk)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1627.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGdHz)
Turned out pretty nice...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2020/02/27/IMG_1626.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/jGqwp)
I'm now in a postion to 'assemble' all the tub pieces. Stay tuned...
Tim
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Wow! Amazing. I wish to have your talent in body work. Great job.
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Hey Tim,� REALLY nice!
I've wondered why you have been so quiet...
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WOW!!! Good work! You da man, da body man that is!!!!
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With the new hat channels and front floors done, it was time to assemble the major tub components.
The order of assembly ended up being fairly self-explanatory. I worked from the inside-out.
First on, the floor riser.
[IMG]h
I bolted this to the chassis to keep everything in alignment. Measuring, adjusting, then measuring and adjusting again, to make sure this tub will bolt up the way it should when complete.
Next, I did a sub assembly. The wheel houses were welded to the rear floor. This may seem a bit odd, but this approach made it very easy to weld while keeping it aligned and square.
[IMG]h
Once this was together, my wife helped me put it on the chassis.
Next, the rear panels. These will help to keep things squared up and aligned with the chassis mounting positions.
[img]
[IMG]
At this point, the wheel house bracing made the most sense to install. Again, measure-align-measure-square-align.
[IMG
[IMG
[IMG
The tailgate surround and valance were to come next. This will be the final chance to make sure the tub will fit right on the chassis. I don't want to overstate it, but I put a ridiculous amount of effort into measuring and aligning as I moved forward in this assembly process.
[IMG
Side panels. This is where my heart started to race. I was excited to see the tub in one piece again, but at the same time, if I made a mistake at some other point, these panels were not going to fit right. Once I put them in place, all my fears went away. They slid right together as they should.
[IMG
[IMG
[IMG]
So, just a quick flashback
What I started with
[IMG
What I have now...
[IMG
I found a set of 3A seats on Ebay. I needed to mock them up so I could weld on the captive nuts on the underside of the tub.
[IMG
UPS showed up with my repro tailgate. I had one, but it was in such bad condition, I decided to treat myself to a new one. It's really starting to look like a real Willys again.
IMG
I have a few small additions I still need to add, like seat supports on the front of the wheel houses, top bow brackets for the top of the wheel houses, tank strap brackets, front panel to rear panel gussets, etc, but the big assembly is complete.
I now have to work on the toolbox. I'm not starting with the prettiest box, but Lee from the great northern state of Minnesota has been helping me out with this portion of my challenge. Thanks Lee!!!
Tim
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I just don't know how it could be any better....excellent work...!
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Truly amazing work Tim. You are really taking this project "to the next level".
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Thanks to everyone for taking a look. I really appreciate the encouraging words.
I'm surprised it's gone as well as it has. And yet, I'm surprised how long it's taken. (Three months worth of spare time.) I don't think this one will be ready for the Colorado Fall Colors Tour in September. :( ;) I was hoping to bring this one for my wife to torture, while I just enjoyed the trails in my OD Willys.
Tim
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Great work Tim, keep it coming....
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I'm envious! I wish I had half the patience you seem to for that kind detailed work.
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Wow Tim, I guess I really haven't been paying attention to your build.� Along with the others, I will offer my compliments and say nice work.
I did what you did and just bought 16G sheet steel also and made my own stuff on my M38 rebuild.� If you have the time, you can sure save a lot of money for other surprises..
What's your green CJ doing during all of this?� I bet it's excited to have a sibling
In some ways I wish I didn't have a trailer queen rig but something more baseline to enjoy in the hills and whatnot.� What are your intentions with this? Is it easier to get by buying stuff for it with the Mrs know its going into her rig? ;)
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Hey Brett,
Thanks for looking in. My OD Willys is happy to have a friend. As you have spotted, this 3A is for my wife...and will be...her words..."a thrasher". A Willys that she won't worry about scratching, denting etc...
Between you and me, I'm having a hard time putting a Bubba Willys together. I'm telling her it will be her thrasher, but I am trying to be respectful to the Willys brand.
You see where I'm at with this. My wife keeps asking me when I'm going to paint it :D ...and when am I going to get her 'yellow smiley face tire cover' :) Those seem to be the only things she is concerned with. If she only knew how far we still have to go.
Tim
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"Yellow Smiley face tire cover...." ahhh. the IMPORTANT parts..
c'mon, quit your slackin' and go get it.. ;D ;D ;D ;)
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I'm tellin ya Bill, she asks me if I got that cover at least 3 times a week. She's driving me crazy. ;D
I'm buying sector shafts, bell cranks, brake cylinders...you know, stuff that will help make it safe to drive.
Maybe if I get to figuring out what size tires I'll be using, I can get the darn tire cover and STOP the constant harassments!!
Tim
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Tim, sounds like you have a wonderful wife who will drive one of these old jeeps! Does she help you at all with it?
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Nate,
My wife is terrific. She helps a little here and there. Her greatest attribute is that she allows me this freedom to enjoy a very cool, and kind of pricey hobby. That she loves these little wonders makes it even more special. She is really excited about having her own Willys. How cool is that?? :)
Tim
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If I ever get a girlfriend, she is either going to have to like old Willys or greasy old engine for the reason that you said, she won't care how much money I spend! ;D At least you'll have his and her jeeps!
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Work and Honey-Do lists have been a little demanding, but I have made some progress.
With the help from Lee(MN), I was able to put together a decent tool box. It will drive the future Willys historians CRAZY! A pretty early '49 3A with a 2A style tool box. I would love to be there as they try to figure that one out. ;D
All the final top side welding is done. I have a couple minor adds to the underside, but I will do those once I take the tub off to do final body work.
I know what you're thinking... "NO WAY is that the same tub!! He went out and bought a MD Juan, and slipped it in on us!!" ;) ;)
(https://s20.postimg.org/hxo8b9d7x/8273E825-33FB-4C4D-93D8-C2913F30CBB6.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s20.postimg.org/ff2jakrhp/FBE0_C017-90_BD-474_E-_A332-4_D92_D7174_A44.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/shy5tuhpp/2_EE54_E57-2152-4_E1_E-9_B1_B-_F865446211_E0.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Doesn't look like it needs any body work! Just a little paint....
Looks great.....will it be yellow?
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I am in awe. "Juan Hawkridge" does it again. Makes me want to rip my tub off and send it to you.
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Sir Hawkridge is the Schiz..nit no doubt. His love for these old Jeeps sure shines in his work. [smiley=thumbsup.gif] 5xer on that one!
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Tim: Your work is simply amazing. I will never cease to be impressed with your patience, skill, and attention to detail. That is truly a remarkable transformation. Thanks for sharing the photos. I can't wait for the next updates.
George
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I�ve made some progress on Whitey.� Sorry fellas, there is going to be some body filler.� There won�t be much.� The hours of hammer/dolly work were well worth the effort�
(https://s20.postimg.org/s3wtu8xm5/881513_DC-_ACFD-4943-9_B18-_AE9_A7863_CCBC.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s20.postimg.org/5dxp19eel/9_C7_C3_E39-0_E5_C-4_A7_A-85_A1-_E276_D5_D0_C34_F.jpg)
It gets too hot outside to do body filler.� I removed the tub and brought it indoors.� I don�t know about you guys, but I can only endure so much body filler work.� It�s my least favorite thing to do.
With the tub removed, I can do a bit of body work, then mess with other items in need of some TLC.
Here is a close up on the Spicer 18 tag.� Another small tag says it�s a 1948 case�
(https://s20.postimg.org/t2rfl4w19/7_D5_C33_CD-2_C88-48_C5-867_D-77144_D169871.jpg)
Somewhere along the line, a PO removed the original park brake assembly and installed the inner drum from an early war Willys.� It�s taken a lot of legwork, and friends with spare parts, but this will be converted back to the original set up�
(https://s20.postimg.org/7wxmqjl7x/A5_D1337_E-_E610-4483-945_C-8_F843186_A0_BB.jpg)
I have an early 3A frame and grill with a jury rigged side mount radiator.� I�m not happy about this�
(https://s20.postimg.org/vzeglf1v1/3_BE4_FCDB-67_A7-4_B64-_A094-_C7_B615_EC1_B49.jpg)
If someone is looking for a nice side mount, I would trade for a decent frame mounted radiator.� I know this is a �Thrasher�, and I know I can make this work, but there are certain things I have a have a hard time with, and this misplaced radiator is one of them.
Time to pull the power train.� I used my little tractor for this before, but I had already removed the transmission, TC and bell housing.� This package pressed the tractors limits�� �
(https://s20.postimg.org/9ji8y17vx/B1_B59_F7_F-_A080-4_AEC-9_AE8-28_BF740_ED6_E8.jpg)
I set the drive train on some small carts and rolled it into a nook in the garage.� I�m looking forward to the cleaning, inspection, sealing, and painting of the drive train.� I was a rookie on the first go round.� This time, I know what to look for.
And here we are today.� A chassis.� The frame is a little tortured and will require some welding and straightening repairs.� I�ve sandblasted a frame before, but I am considering taking this one to a blaster.� It took forever to clean the first one.
(https://s20.postimg.org/gcn781o31/F92392_FC-1962-4_F7_D-_A3_DC-9_B4_B568_CB9_F4.jpg)�
Side note:� The PTO currently installed on this Willys is not staying.� If anyone has interest in it, PM me.� I don�t know the value, but would consider trading it for a few things.� I�ll post this in the FS or Trade section in a few days.
Thank you for taking a gander!
Tim�
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I'm not so sure why it took me so long to discover the local sandblaster...I spent so many hours cleaning and scraping...
Looks great, and it's good to see the progress....!
Randy
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Okay, I�m back in the game and ready to offer a short update.� It�s been a while. With preparation for out of town guests�(see Haines Garage) and the Fall Colors Tour, my days have been pretty full.�
Once back from the FCT, I needed to clean ODie, and fix a bad scratch along the entire length of the driver side.� It was damage I just wasn�t going to be able to live with.� The paint is curing, so I had some time to move back over to Whitey.
In my last post, I had taken Whitey down to the frame.� This is when I discovered this Willys must have had a run in with a much larger object.� At the front end, the two long frame rails looked like someone just knocked over a set of dominos.� It looked something like this�� \___\.�
� The PO had done a very sloppy repair, essentially locking the frame into this position.� The front tube shaped cross member was welded back in with the bell crank mount and radiator mounting tabs pointing down hill.� Again, I�m not going for a show winner here, but this is for my wife.� She deserves to have decent steering and a Willys that will not experience Death Wobble.
To make the repair, I had to cut out the front cross member.� This is not an easy task if you were going to pull it out of a perfect frame.� Imagine how hard it would be to pull it out of a frame with a horrible welding repair job.� It took all weekend for me to get to this point.
(https://s20.postimg.org/6mv7xr225/7_BC0_FA77-976_A-48_AF-8443-2258_EB6_F86_CC.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/upc1smip9/33_E57_F62-_F6_F7-4291-_B455-464_AA0_B35_F5_B.jpg)
Giving up on this frame had crossed my mind a half dozen times, but everything rear of the engine mounts is in such good condition.� I just couldn�t let this beat me.� While I have this out, I will be able to clean up the area, prime inside the tube and patch up some bad spots.� All in all, I think it will turn out fine.� These are just the frustrating things that turn a one year build into two.
Tim
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Great job on your build. And I am a little anal myself on vehicles I work on for the Wife. I never want her stranded or in a bad situation because I skipped or glossed over a proper repair.
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[size=14]The Foundation�[/size]
The damage to the frame was not anticipated.� This set me back a couple months.� The cross tube was removed.� This allowed me to straighten the long rails�
While the tube was out, I cleaned up the ends and patched a few areas that were getting thin�
(https://s20.postimg.org/r5upgk5d9/CF815091-2_D5_D-4_E23-_BFB7-513_F5_BEE8384.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/xgzwwz6lp/4269_C925-4466-425_D-8772-_C653_C5350_F0_A.jpg)
I leveled and plumbed the frame, checked measurements, clamped it all into position, then welded it all back together�
(https://s20.postimg.org/opsw2pnal/D873_A02_D-_AC8_F-4812-_B732-084_C8_D1_B9_BDB.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/tlwiuenfx/A1_E85_A03-8_B78-4719-921_A-36_BFD64_D0_ADD.jpg)
Once the structural issues were addressed, I had it sandblasted�
(https://s20.postimg.org/ppo8vj8rx/image.jpg)
Even though my sandblaster does a great job of removing rust, I still use a rust encapsulating primer called Master Series Silver.� I�ve used it before.� Great stuff.� Kind of tough to tell the difference, but this photo shows the frame after it was primed with the Silver�
(https://s20.postimg.org/poeb246y5/image.jpg)
New to me is the chassis coating, by the same company, called AG 111.� It�s a 2 part system. Once on, it is impervious to nearly all chemical or fluid attacks.� �It is UV stable, unlike POR15.� I chose the Satin Black.� It is the closest to the Semi-Gloss that was used for the frame.� I like it�
(https://s20.postimg.org/6tikbp6wd/image.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/8wszjd6p9/image.jpg)
Did you notice my tub hanging from the rafters?� I�m getting a little tight on room!
So, with the �Foundation� complete, we all know what this means�Time to bolt it all back on.
Next up: Axles, springs and brakes.
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Looks great Tim I�m practically speechless. I�ve been away from my project and this site for a few months while I try and catch up on some other projects. The progress you have made is awesome. You have a real talent at resurrecting an old tied jeep that�s for sure.
Steve
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Never any shortcuts - just doing it right. Great progress post Tim.
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Steve, Ryan,
Thank you for your far too generous words.
I'm just trying to avoid the NO (Next Owner ;)) calling me 'Bubba' ;D. As much as I would hate that to be my legacy, I just have a deep desire to honor these little wonders, by giving them the best chance at another 60 years.
Thank you again.
Tim
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Tim,
I just finished my frame painting this weekend as well. I used the Mastercoat series silver and then AG111 but in a gloss. The primer (silver) went on really nice with my HVLP 1.5. The first batch of black I used was a bit thick to spray. I found out that I did have to thin it just a bit like the can say's 5% - 10% max. The second batch sprayed just fine.
I'm glad I am done with the painting of the frame as the Mastercoat is some smelly paint. You really need a good fresh air respirator or good ventilation.
Pictures to follow.......
George
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http://s1205.photobucket.com/user/grfranks/library/Painting%20Process
Lets see if this works.
By the way Tim that frame of your looks great. The satin looks cool
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George,
Great work on your frame!� It looks far less pitted than mine.� Very nice.�
I really like your paint booth too.� I did something similar.
I thought I was the only one that bought into the hype on the Master Series Silver.� I know it's only been a couple years on the Green Willys, but there is "0", nada, no rust on it so far. Used the foam roller approach this time. (I couldn't find my respirator)� It really did go on well with a roller.� I did two coats.
� I used a polyester brush with the AG111.� As they promised, no brush strokes.� On your first round, I'm amazed you could get that stuff to spray at all.� Very thick.� I'm glad to know the reduction works.� I want to spray the really smooth stuff, like the brake backer plates etc...
I'm not seeing a project thread for you.� At least consider sharing your build with the group.� IMHO, you could bring a lot to the table George. :)
Tim
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Thanks Tim,
I will take your advise and put this on the project thread.
I thought that my HVLP was acting up on the first round of black but soon realized that the stuff was so thick - thinning helped a great deal. My first project (53 wagon) I used POR but decided to go with the Master Coat series since I had read some good reviews and decided it was worth a try. I am encouraged by your results with zippo rust comment.
I used a sponge roller with the silver and it turned out great as well. I was thinking about using the roller with the black but there are some real hard to get places with a brush. I have some other parts to paint still and I plan on a roller and brush. I'll let you know how the gloss turns out.
Most of my pitting was isolated to the battery tray - not bad for a 64 year old (Jeep) that is.
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The front axle has some good news, and bad.�
(https://s20.postimg.org/8wszjd6p9/image.jpg)
I sandblasted, then primed it.� Once I pulled the differential cover, I discovered the first challenge.� The spider gears were missing some teeth�
(https://s20.postimg.org/gebdq2azx/image.jpg)
I ordered some parts from Walcks, then quickly studied up on how to take the axle apart.� It's really is amazing how simple this axle is.
I removed the axle retainers.� This allows you to pull the axle shafts out of the axle housing. I then removed the king pins.
I removed the old axle seals and pulled the knuckle housing off.� I cleaned everything up.� This is when I discovered the next problem�
(https://s20.postimg.org/5v6sn5iy5/image.jpg)
These are the king pin bearings. They are toast.� There were no king pins shims, thus no proper preload.� Clearly, replacement bearings need to be ordered.
The axles and knuckle bearings look new, along with these bearings and cups�
(https://s20.postimg.org/jz2nvjq5p/image.jpg)
It�s strange to find many parts in �like new� condition, and others that are broken and neglected.
Time to re-assemble this axle.� This is such a greasy job. It�s hard to take photos of the process.� I removed the ring gear from the carrier.� I removed this pin�
(https://s20.postimg.org/t35o9qh4d/image.jpg)�
This is when I discovered that the ring gear and carrier had to be removed from the housing before I could get at the spider gears. Once out of the differential housing, the
large retainer pin will slide out, releasing the spider gears.� I pulled the old gears out, then slid the new set in without any difficulty. I re-inserted the pins, greased up the bearings and cups, re-installed the ring gear, then reset the carrier into the differential housing.� I tightened the bearing caps to spec�.
(https://s20.postimg.org/jz2nvjq5p/image.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/svdfzhgrx/image.jpg)
Time to set the new king pin bearings.� I greased them up real good, then slipped the knuckle housing into position.� I have the old style knuckle housings, so I need to add shims to both the upper and lower king pins.� There was quite a bit of trial and error.� I had to installed and remove the king pins four times before I reached the proper preload.� I settled on 10 lbs of pressure with a fish scale.� You would think the other side would need the same amount of shims.� Not in my case.� I had to set, then remove the other side three times before I reached my goal.
(https://s20.postimg.org/sdiajmr71/image.jpg)
I installed the new knuckle seals, then slid in the axle shafts.� I temporarily reset the axle retainers until I�m ready to install the brake backing plates.� This repair took me longer than I thought it would.� 6 hours.� This included the cleaning.� I hate cleaning.
(https://s20.postimg.org/5q31dhbn1/image.jpg)
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Tim,
Great pictures and narrative...Did you use a differential spreader to remove/install the carrier?
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No, but if I knew there was a tool for doing this, I sure as heck would have procured one. It took a while to get it out. That is one tight fit between the bearing cups and the diff housing. I used a combination of Wonder Bars and claw hammers. I worked back and forth from one side to the other, moving the carrier a fraction of an inch at a time, until it was free.
Tim
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Ya there is a case spreader tool but I never thought the need to have one for how little use it would ever see. It's perfectly acceptable to just pry the carrier out as you did.
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Tim,
Were you able to drive this jeep before you started to rebuild it?
Were you able to hear any specific noise from the differentials or did they just blend in with the chorus of sound coming from the drivetrain?
The least expensive case spreader that I can find is about $170...
But there is a picture of one in the service manual...I think you could have made one....
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Hi Randy,
I did drive this Willys prior to tear down, but I didn't lock the front axle in.� There is a short video of this drive toward the beginning of this project thread.� �I was so thrilled this would move under its own power, I forgot to do some of those basic tests. After seeing the broken gears, I suspect I might have locked up, or done some more damage to the differential, had I actually locked in the front axle.
The steering had been modified with the wrong gear box.� It turned smoothly, but the play at the wheel was horrible.� It needed nearly half a turn to get a response from the axle.� I couldn't hear any crunching sounds that you might expect with bearings that looked like this.� I think the huge steering box may have been hiding other deficiencies.
The engine sounded good and it shifted well, so I'm hopeful it won't need any major work.� It did feel under powered, but this could be any of a number of things...timing, the extra steel welded on to the tub, the huge tire radius, or the worst case scenerio, bad compression. :-/� We will see.
Tim
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The bearings etc will certainly help the steering both in accuracy and ease of turning.
I can't believe how much smoother and how little force the 3a requires as opposed to the CJ-5....I have yet to replace the kingpin bearings on the -5.
I remember that video...you roaring around in the yard...wasn't sure if it was the same jeep though...
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You project is coming along nicely. I am working on my axles now and they are tedious. But well worth the time.
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Real nice body work, I appreciate your thread
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Inspiring work! We've been fortunate to have such great weather for working out doors here along the front range and you are certainly taking advantage. I'm consistently amazed by your abilities. Thanks for the thread.
Scott
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Progress has come to a crawl.� The weather has been pretty chilly here.
(https://s20.postimg.org/9wf788pwt/97_F8_E940-_E898-4_BC2-_A8_FD-_EB9_D110_C1_E3_D.jpg)
� I know brakes are a whole new sub-set, but the axle is ready for them, so I went ahead and got them cleaned up.
Brake drum primed with Master Series Silver�
(https://s20.postimg.org/yoa81qhpp/B1_FB9_E67-54_C2-4_A59-_A874-0910_A952_B106.jpg)
Backing plates all cleaned and painted�
(https://s20.postimg.org/l63bpg5kd/8976_C5_B7-3_A94-49_E9-9627-998_F52130_A7_E.jpg)
A photo of all the brake parts.� Not pictured�new cylinders and springs�
(https://s20.postimg.org/yhwiyn8kt/8857_EBD6-_F08_A-4_E44-9046-3_A18_AA96_C41_E.jpg)
The brake assembly ready to be bolted up�
(https://s20.postimg.org/e1ligeyb1/CD5_EC077-_C48_E-434_C-_BCE7-2_EFECDFE10_B3.jpg)
I installed a new sleeve on the yoke�
(https://s20.postimg.org/9fvtraxwt/image_zpsa3f46e7b.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/mqjoktoh9/image_zps5472c32e_1.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/jv6ldykh9/image_zpsdf46d76b.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/z181r5l4d/image_zps50f6d153_1.jpg)
The new seal is installed�.
(https://s20.postimg.org/7f5a6h1rh/image_zps79f8f210.jpg)
I decided to use this product for my knuckle lube.� Boy, there is a lot of debate on this subject.� I really like its consistency.� The tube format makes it easy to squirt into the filler port.� Two 4 once tubes per side�� �
(https://s20.postimg.org/l9x55pb1p/165_D990_B-8_D47-4791-_A202-1_F3_ACB0859_DB.jpg)
This axle is ready to be installed on the frame.� Time to work on the Dana 41 rear axle.
Thanks for looking in.
Tim
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Hey Tim,
Looking good amigo - I am a little behind you on my project as well but currently working on my front axle. I have a question for you - do you remember how thick you top shims were once you obtained the proper preload on your king pins?
Also, did you just shim the top and not the bottom?
I am enjoying watching your rebuild. Keep up the good work and stay warm!
George
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Hi George,
I�m not sure what the thickness is for my king pin shims.� I just kept adding to the bottom and top, evenly, until I reached 10-12 pounds of pulling force on my fish scale.� I found it odd that each side required a different amount of shims.
This is a �49 3A.� It has the older style knuckle.
According to other Willys professionals, there was a knuckle change about the same time the M38 came to be.� They added a �shelf� to the lower knuckle housing that eliminated the need to shim the lower king pin.� This shelf is .058�� ish.� It made king pin service easier and faster because shims were only needed on the top.�
I did a quick search.� I was hoping to find a fairly recent discussion from Bob W, but found this one instead.� Calvin Hunt says it better than me�
http://cj3apage.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Tech&action=display&thread=1736
I know your�re feeling this too, but axle repair/restoration is boring and tedious.� It�s not very interesting for me, or anyone reading about it, but it is a critical step.� I just wish I was done with them!!� �A positive note, my rear 41 is in excellent condition.� All internals look brand new.� At one point or another, there was a major problem back there.� Looks like the gears exploded right through the diff cover. :'(
Tim
� ��
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Mine is a '49 3A as well. I just have to remember to have patience - no beer and no "close enough for govt. work" attitude.
Looking forward to reading more on your build - oh yes and great pictures -
George
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Hey Tim,
Any more progress? I'm sure things are slowing down around the holidays - looking forward to your next post.
George
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As Tumbleweed mentions in his project thread, I too find it difficult to get stuff done this time of year.� Cold weather and the string of holidays can chew up my resolve.� Weather guy says we will have lows around -10 degrees, with highs in the teens.� I don�t have a heated garage.� Bummer.
I opened up the rear axle.� I was happy to find the gears, bearings, seals and races to be near new�
(https://s20.postimg.org/mdh9hnvot/D178_AF80-6828-4_FDF-_A350-0_CB944_CC0_D5_A.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/ursas07cd/94_FD80_CB-5_E08-4246-8_F6_E-29_EDEAB3_DA10.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/npud5t3ql/B94_C7925-_DDA3-47_F3-_B8_A4-_C24_CD70_F4_F49.jpg)
I should have known it would look good.� Check out the diff cover�
(https://s20.postimg.org/3z6qdoje5/9_A079_FF2-_AD8_D-4_CE4-_A69_C-736_B64457_A78.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/8owo2aael/5_D675_EDC-3600-4_BF4-_B97_F-9_E9_C85_DF7_F34.jpg)
Clearly, there was a major issue at some point.� The repair job on the cover is sloppy.� I have a hard time knowing it looks this way.� If anyone has a decent spare for the 41 axle, I�m in the market.
I did reach a monumental stage.� The first part to be �Re-Assembled� was chosen.� I sent out a press release and everything.� Attendance was low.
http://youtu.be/VmY49oihm90
The bell crank�� I greased it up good and bolted it on.� That was a good day.
Tim
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Do you need a diff cover? I have one.
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Tim I also have a '41 cover in great shape.� Yours for the price of shipping, if you don't snag Nate's.
I just took a look at it and it's in pretty good shape, has a few small dents that will very easily peen out and you will never know.
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I am happy to report, Bretto was kind enough to part with a very nice Dana 41 differential cover.� Whitey will not be embarrased to show his hind end.� Thanks again Bretto! :)
The weather has cooperated over the last week or so.� I was able to clean the shop and start the chassis re-assembly.� This is far and away my favorite part.� The bulk of scraping crud, wire wheel work, sandblasting etc, is behind me.� �
I�ve accumulated the majority of parts needed.� I still get caught on occasion.� One set of old axle u-bolts were cut too short by the PO. ( I went to the 10 leaf spring pack on the front, and the bolts don�t reach anymore.)
The axles and springs have been installed.� On the last Willys, I installed the wheels, tires, and leaf springs to the axle, then just steered that assembly under the frame.� That approach works pretty well.� On this one, I had just finished painting the drums, so I needed to come up with something different.�
I bolted the rear of the leaf springs, set the axle on them, then jacked the springs up to install the spring shackles.� This works fairly well too.� The hard part was getting the heavy axle into position without scratching paint, or breaking my back.� I did this on both front and rear axles.
(https://s20.postimg.org/qdjtg5wrx/5_EF830_AF-_BB5_E-4_D9_C-_B3_AF-8_C0_D22_F62_E05.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/j92074pil/63_BB9_B27-332_F-443_A-8505-588_FF0_D5_B6_E2.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/jkjgjw5yl/329210_D9-_DAA4-4_E77-_B3_E0-_A3_A2562_BE357.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/gb51dfhv1/766_CEC59-3202-4_C38-_AE67-2901_CC1_DCCB3.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/igzc7xlbh/A4_DD53_D1-_CE8_C-412_C-_BC18-1_D8_C0_B90_F665.jpg)
I learned something new.� Now, we all know the driver front, and passenger rear get the left hand thread shackles.� What I didn�t know is that only the spring eye side of the shackle is left hand thread.� The frame side of the shackle is still right hand thread.� I vaguely remember being very confused when fighting the shackles onto my OD Willys.� Mystery solved.
All in all, it was a good day.� Next up,� Brakes and brake lines.
Thanks for looking in.
Tim
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Looking great and glad to see some progress again - keep 'em coming.
George
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It looks great Tim...that really is the fun part.
Thanks for solving the shackle mystery...I've never seen it stated so simply...
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Just a quick progress report...and a review.
I enjoy double flaring brake lines, but decided to treat myself to a pre-made kit from Walcks.� Made in the USA.
This kit is designed for the �49 3A, or the later 2A with the Dana 41 rear and 25 front axles.� The kit is nicely done, and comes with clamps and differential clips.�
Two lines required some minor tweaking. (From master cylinder to forward frame position, and the small piece from the axle mounted distributor to the driver side axle mount.)�
Overall, a very nice kit�
(https://s20.postimg.org/y59q67fot/3_CCF1011-_EEC2-4_E1_E-8_F6_C-_D208462_A16_A7.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/vt1q8m33h/7267_D880-89_D6-4409-968_D-4128_F62048_D5.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/xeh00fdbh/AB873_DF7-62_CC-405_A-8_CD4-53580_C1_A5030.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/fw2ybwap9/D2_CF3307-0386-4_D26-_BF8_F-4_ACA59922371.jpg)
Someone chime in if I don't have the clamps and clips in the right place.� I wasn't sure, so I put them in the most obvious positions.
Next up, installing the assembled brakes system for each wheel. Then, maybe the rebuilt steering system.
Tim
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Tim, there is a company, inline tube, that makes stainless brake line kits for Jeeps. I put that on my 53 and it fit perfectly. I'll never use a regular steel kit again.
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Tim, I recently installed the same kit on a late '48, IIRC, all the clamps went with the screw on the front of the axle with the head up.� �BW
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Thanks Nate. I'm sort of committed to this set at this point, but I'll consider the stainless on the next go around.
Okay Bruce, thanks. Easy fix. I haven't tightened anything down yet. Position of clamps and clips...accurate?
Tim
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It looks great Tim,
I used that same brake line set, and it fit fine with no more that a little tweak here and there.
I took a picture of the rear before I took it apart. I'm pretty sure the left line had been replaced once though..
I probably took a picture of the front also, but finding it is another matter....
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I was able to get a little bit more done.� Bearings packed and brakes installed.
(https://s20.postimg.org/a5cry62p9/C437_A662-_A3_A7-4_FE6-96_D3-8_C51_EDA4_C17_A.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/poa7vaazx/356_DC691-_A56_D-429_D-_BD2_B-_F35_ECA8_D299_E.jpg)
The drums installed..
(https://s20.postimg.org/lbbocv299/5_F5_AACCD-_B388-467_A-_AC80-_F6373_C70_FDB6.jpg)
New differential cover installed.� Thanks Bretto...
(https://s20.postimg.org/rmcafje3x/A67977_AE-235_B-4_CC1-_B661-5_A2822793_FBB.jpg)
Also, new tie rods and tie rod ends are on, along with the rebuilt steering box...
(https://s20.postimg.org/ispzc6gj1/E050366_E-6_A09-4825-80_D4-6_C1_E02_F47573.jpg)
I still need to rebuild the drag link, but other than that, the steering system is ready.
There are a few minor things that still need attention,� but for the most part, the chassis is done?
Time to start messing with the heart of the Willys.� If you've been following this thread, you may remember that the engine ran pretty nice before I tore the Willys apart.� So, I don't think we will have to go in too deep, but we will see.
Thanks for looking.
Tim
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Tim, I would recommend a tight steer for the ross box, not that you need to install one at this point, but well worth the money.
Looking good,
Lee ;)
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The Jeep is OK but man that's a fine looking garage door. Would that, by any chance, be one of those Raynor Overhead Door Systems? ;D
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Looks great Tim. I like the contrast of the natural metal hardware against the black. You going to keep those Monroe's yellow?
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Thanks for the comments guys.
Lee, I do have the Tight Steer on my OD Willys. I will likely add one here too.� On the OD Willys, I have all fresh steering components.� I didn't notice a significant difference with the Tight Steer, but I do believe it will maintain the sharp steering as the components begin to wear.
Ryan, Yes sir, that is a Raynor Garage Door.�
I'm not sure how far these guys are from you, but there is a Raynor dealer in your neck of the woods called, Raynor Door Authority of New England.� If they are close enough, and you need new doors, service, or repairs, call and ask for Mike Babano.� Tell him you're my friend.� He will discount the service needed.
Bretto, I haven't decided on the color for the shocks quite yet.� As is, they certainly offer a contrast. This Willys will be pale yellow.� It might look nice to have a splash of color underneath. We'll see.
Tim� �
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Ryan, Yes sir, that is a Raynor Garage Door.�
I'm not sure how far these guys are from you, but there is a Raynor dealer in your neck of the woods called, Raynor Door Authority of New England.� If they are close enough, and you need new doors, service, or repairs, call and ask for Mike Babano.� Tell him you're my friend.� He will discount the service needed.
I appreciate the gesture Tim. They're are in Manchester, NH - almost 4 hours from here - so probably too far to be practical but I'll keep it in mind. Always good to have contacts in every parts of the world. You just never know when they will come in handy.
Do you have a any Jeep Parts Suppier friends in Manchester who would also offer discounts??
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Hey Tim,
Looking good amigo - I am enjoying seeing the progress - I hope your garage is warmer than mine this morning. Currently 18 in Ft Worth. Garage is not much warmer! I need insulated doors like yours.
George
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Hey Tim,
It looks great...it looks like that frame paint gave you excellent coverage....
The tub can't be to far off.....awaiting warmer weather?
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Thanks George.� Thanks Randy.
The tub is hanging from my rafters, waiting for a rolling running chassis.� Hopefully, it will be installed when the warm weather comes back.
(https://s20.postimg.org/gupqxf965/IMG_1214_1.jpg)
Up next is the engine work.� I have a few teasers photos below.� This may...or may not...be an easy fluff and buff.
(https://s20.postimg.org/j0k1rxcml/image_zpse934e6fa.jpg)
Check this out.� Driver side motor mount.� Broken...
(https://s20.postimg.org/c7jovnlt9/image_zps3eb0cd1c.jpg)
Passenger side dog ear on the front engine mount plate.� Broken...
(https://s20.postimg.org/rrr2m6vxp/image_zpsefa727ee.jpg)
Scary. I don't think this bad boy would have stayed together at the Fall Colors Tour. ;)� I can't imagine what would have happened if I took it through a big 'ole snow drift, like Ryan. ;D
Tim
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I saw this the other day..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-52-M38-Jeep-Willys-Front-Engine-Mount-plate-/221348328682?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33896374ea&vxp=mtr
Maybe???
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I have found that over the years there have been numerous parts that I have seen with either stress cracking or just plain twisted. The engine is looking pretty good though. 39 in Ft Worth this morning - we are going into a tropical vortex!
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I've started the process of freshening up the engine.� Got it stripped down, then re-indexed the oil pump so setting the timing will be easier.
(https://s20.postimg.org/xdi33zm0d/IMG_1494.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/wchuev50t/IMG_1483.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/v7ns9hijx/IMG_1473.jpg)
I have discovered the engine went through a fairly recent rebuild.� Everything seems cleaned and polished, but when I drove it before the Willys was torn apart, it felt under powered.� It had timing issues and huge tires, so I convinced myself that this was the reason for low power.� That said, I wanted to know for sure.� I did a leak down test. On all 4 cylinders, air was leaking from the compression chamber, to the oil galley.� It was substantial.� 60 to 80% loss on all cylinders.� I pulled the head.� It came off with ease.� Literally 10 minutes.
(https://s20.postimg.org/p6uoq5lbh/IMG_1482.jpg)
With help from others, I found the piston rings are wrong, the ring end gap is wrong, and the cylinders were not cross hatch honed.� I'm currently doing some cylinder and piston measuring to see if there was damage done to the cylinder walls.� Hopefully they are okay.� This engine is already bored to .060 over.� �I understand this to be the limit for the L-134.� So far, cylinder and piston #4 are fine.�
(https://s20.postimg.org/s6fdihyy5/IMG_1485.jpg)
I am hopeful that new rings and some light honing will have this up and running with all the vigor an L-134 can offer.� :o
Any thoughts are always welcome.
Tim
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Hey Tim -
I'm curious if you were or are able to get any history on the motor from the previous owner? I re-read your "I have a herd!" thread and I wonder if that guy you bought them from might know the story? Or maybe even if he could put you in touch with the guy he bought the 3A from? Since the motor rebuild looks to be recent it'd be more likely you could actually find the guy who did the work. Doesn't change what you still have to do to it but, who knows, it may be helpful to know who did what and why. I always like chasing a good mystery. Gives me something to do between parts orders� :D
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Ryan, I wish I had that option.� The PO bought this Willys from a daughter that had a power of attorney for her institutionalized father.� The PO bought this about a year before I bought it.� He parked it in his yard and did nothing to it.� He intended to pull the engine and put it in the '46 2A I got from him also.�
His CR add said this engine ran, but when I made him start it, he looked surprised when it actually did start.
Unfortunately, this puzzle is missing some pieces.
Take a look at this.� On the left, is the unbroken top ring I took off the #2 piston.� I put it in the #2 cylinder to check the gap.� The gap should be .00955", not 5/8".� No wonder I had leaking compression chambers...
(https://s20.postimg.org/5sp9cq4h9/IMG_1477.jpg)
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Wow, that gap is huge....even in a .060 over bore you wouldn't think that even a standard ring would have that much gap.
I'd guess that the assembly was finished by someone other than the person who started it....
Honing a nice cross-hatch into the bores and the correct rings ought to give you a nice strong engine...
Have you measured the bores? Are they .060 and all the same?
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I am in the process of measuring.� All cylinders look fairly new.� They are all marked� �.060 ---->� � On top.
I've cleaned, then measured #1,2 and 3 pistons.� So far, they are measuring out to be 3.181" .to 3.182 at the bottom skirt. My caliper is supposedly accurate to + / - .005.�
I am waiting for a bore gauge to arrive, but I did rig up a rudimentary measuring device.� I made a pin that will just fit the #4 bore, then measured it with my caliper.� Pin measures 3.184".� I then moved the pin up, down, turn, up, down, turn etc.� Toughest part is holding the pin level.� So far, there is only one area in the #3 bore that is a fraction wider than 3.184".
Don't crucify me!� This approach is just until I get my bore gauge.� I just had to do something besides stare down those holes! :-/
In any event, things look to be within spec of .003", but again my caliper may be reading .005 + or -.�
Such is the life of a back yard mechanic with limited resources.
Tim
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When my engine was at the machine shop I'd stop by to drop of parts or just to see how it was going. I saw numerous procedures that required all sorts of special measuring equipment.....dial indicators and calipers and you name it. Very cool. I wouldn't know how to use that stuff if I had it to use!
I'd be doing just what you are doing, but probably with a ruler!
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I disassembled the engine.� Most of the internals are in surprisingly good shape.�
The pistons have no rub marks...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1487.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1453.jpg)
The main and rod bearings look new too...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1470.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1469.jpg)
I cleaned up the block and cross hatch honed the cylinders.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1461.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1466.jpg)
The head cleaned up nice...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1462.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1459.jpg)
The crankshaft looks good too. They measured out at .01 under standard...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1472.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/IMG_1475.jpg)
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Wow, it looks great, and it's a new(rebuilt) engine to boot! Keep posting...
Interesting location for the block water jacket drain...?
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Randy, it's a horrible place for the drain, but this is where I keep finding them on my other engines too. When I drain the block, I stick a 1/4" hose in the end of the drain * so it won't poor all over the generator and then down the block.
Where is yours located?
Tim
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It seems to me mine is further back under the distributor, or between the distributor and the generator...but your's looks like it's in a lower spot in the water jacket...
Just got a new computer so no pictures...
Forgot about Photobucket...
(http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s519/green55jeep/51%20cj-3a%20rust%20pictures/th_P1060025_zps2778b396.jpg) (http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/green55jeep/media/51%20cj-3a%20rust%20pictures/P1060025_zps2778b396.jpg.html)
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Hey Tim,
About time we saw some pictures - I thought that you may have gone into hibernation ;D
The progress is really looking good - I can't wait to see the final assembly - Keep up the good work
You never know what can turn up when you get into the tear down process but it looks as though you pinpointed your initial problem.
Regards,
George
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Thanks George!� You know how hard it is to stay motivated when the weather turns cold.� We will be below zero tonight.
Plus, I like to post photos.� Everyone likes photos, but the majority of what I've accomplished isn't really 'photo worthy'.� It's just a bunch of small, but significant changes and tasks.
George, Randy brings up an interesting observation.� My engine drain is forward and behind the generator.� His is in a much better location... behind the generator mount.� Where is your drain?�
I wonder if this was a minor casting adjustment made during 3A production.� My 2A engine, GPW engine and this fairly early 3A engine all have the drain in the forward position.� I don't remember if there is something on this in Bob W's book.� I will look tonight.� I also have a later 3A engine, but not later than the lower flange change that was made at the beginning of the M38 production. I don't remember where that drain is. I'll look at it tonight also.
Tim
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Hey Tim
My drain is in the same place as yours. My engine number is 3J 14753.
George
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Tim
I just realized my serial number is 14517
1949 CJ3A with a body tag of 13910
I think our jeeps were made by the same factory guys!
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George,
That is pretty close. Give or take 862 between us. Surely the same fellas built them both, then headed to the local hole for a beer! 8-)
Tim
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My engine is 3J 66559, so it's about 50,000 units newer....I guess there were some changes....
Randy
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The weather has been better, so I've been able to get some things done.�
I got the crank, rings and pistons installed.� Lots of care.� Lots of assembly lube...
(https://s20.postimg.org/p1viu83e5/IMG_1455.jpg)
Gears back on and aligned for proper timing...
(https://s20.postimg.org/ovhtr4u99/IMG_1456.jpg)
The engine block is painted.� I really like the way it's turning out...
(https://s20.postimg.org/e8slzgbhp/IMG_1450.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/x29tipkbx/IMG_1451.jpg)
This is an older 3A engine with a newer flywheel.� �There are no marks on the flywheel.� I had no marks on the older timing cover, so with some help from Randy, and some careful measurements, I was able to add them. I stamped the marks in with a cold chisel, then painted them white.� �This is the end result...
(https://s20.postimg.org/q0bvwigq5/IMG_1449.jpg)
I must say, it sure is easy to find TDC with the engine taken apart.
I continue to repaint and reassemble the engine.� Water pump is back on. Distributor is cleaned up and back in.� The oil pump and head are up next.� I am going to do a leak down test to see if there is an improvement.� I anticipate a decent reduction in air loss, and expect the reading will improve even more once the rings have a chance to seat.� We will see.�
Tim
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Nice looking engine....Hopefully your camera washed out the red, it looks like a brick red on my screen. You didn't get a close up shot of the timing gear marks, did ya?
I'm a little behind you on the red jeep, the engine is still in the back of my Blue Chevy waiting installation after I get done dealer prepping the last of the storage lot jeeps.
I like the timing cover mod, too.. I assume there is a notch on the pulley or did you have to make that too? Have you seen Midwest military's pointer?
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Thanks Bill. The camera seems to compensate for the crummy light out in my garage. Thankfully, the red is much darker in person. I haven�t been home early enough to take photos when the sun is still shining.
With regard to timing, this engine was the �Perfect Storm.�
-No Timing marks on cover.
-No Timing marks on the Flywheel
-No Timing marks on the gear. I had to add it.
-No Timing notch on the pulley.
-Oil Pump not indexed correctly.
There was a small �zero� on the crank gear.
I�ve gotten pretty good at the �Geico Methoud�, but as I age, and lose my common sense, I wanted it to be a little more obvious.
I have seen some of the pointers that are available, but I saw an old post from Rocketeer that showed a picture of the indented cover, and I like it. I figured it would be the easiest to duplicate.
Thanks again for looking in.
Tim
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Needs dual carbs. 8-)
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Very, very nice!
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(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/image_zps05aaf1e2.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/image_zpsa814cae4.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/image_zpsfea6225d.md.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/GsZq)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/image_zps5da4b9f3.md.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/GvY5)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/imagejpg7_zps3619280b---Copy.md.jpg) (http://www.mywillyspics.com/image/G7aL)
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Whoa baby! I am liking that red and black combo. My opinion is I would paint the other stuff black as well to stay with the colors. The red/black plus all new hardware makes the motor really pop.
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That oil pump contrasts nicely. How about the same scheme with the filter? Black top and silverish body? Too much?
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You will have the black (?) generator, starter, distributor and coil over on that side, along with the oil bracket.....is the old filter can still orange? Try it...it may not clash with all that black over there to set� it off...
And the jeep is going to be yellow, right? An orange or maybe a yellow filter can may pull it together...
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Hi Guys! Thanks for joining in my fun.
All excellent ideas. And all of them have left me even more vexed! ;)
Just a reminder...this is for my wife. She has that 'decorator' eye. I don't know the rules used with the color wheels, but I'm almost sure that my ultimate choice will be wrong. ;D
Randy, thanks again for your help with the timing marks.
Tim
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I finally made a decision on the color for the oil filter housing.� I settled on this...
(https://s20.postimg.org/ujxb9idd9/IMG_1431.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
It's right out in front.� Decided the engine colors were the best choice.
Is it possible to be excited, yet sad, at the same time?� I've been cleaning up some engine components.� I got to the coil and found it is an Autolite 12v coil, Made In The USA.� Excited to see a still working electrical part that was made here...but sad to know the days where Americans made things like this are all but gone.
(https://s20.postimg.org/4zv132rzh/IMG_1432.jpg)
I'm not sure if this fuel pump will be up for the task, but it sounds good when I hand turn the engine.� I cleaned it up and bolted it on.�
(https://s20.postimg.org/4e626ywx9/IMG_1430.jpg)
Got a generator bracket on eBay.� Cleaned up the 12v Delco rebuilt generator and bolted it on.� The front bottom mounting flange was broken.� I was worried it was cast iron.� I welded a new piece on. Worked just fine.� Must be cast steel.
(https://s20.postimg.org/vwvs4ib3h/image_zps6ad1d7af.jpg)
Up next, bell housing, clutch and tranny.� I have something interesting planned for the bell housing.
I followed Bretto's move and bought a sealed bearing for the front of the tranny.� I'm debating with myself whether or not to remove the inner seal on the bearing.� We will see.
Tim
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Looks good Tim!
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Dang Tim,
You are getting with it - I was going to suggest pink but then again I like the color you stuck with. Everybody has an opinion! Weather is getting better in Dallas - time to get busy again. That engine looks great......
George
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I needed to transition from the red engine to the black drive train.� Came up with this.� What do you guys think? :o
(https://s20.postimg.org/4axdtu2p9/7_B2_CEF2_F-5704-4378-9761-1334_C85_FDA9_A.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/e6ygth8h9/4_F32_B039-3_B0_B-4_B4_F-_BE1_C-_E6_F0_D7_F376_C9.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/dwqya4tv1/8123519_B-611_C-40_C8-_AEDA-9_CF364_A5_A9_C2.jpg)
I am waiting on a new throw out bearing, so it's not all bolted up yet, but I just had to see how it would look.
Tim�
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Kinda like peeing your pants in a dark suit. No one knows but you.
I like it. Artistic License.
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I can see you were afraid I'd smoke you at a traffic light drag race with my red brake cylinders. Those flames have gotta shave at least a couple seconds off your 1/4-mile time. I highly approve.
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Only because that is on a 60hp motor is that both funny and cool! [smiley=beer.gif]
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Wow Tim, you really came through on the flames! I think you need to consider clear acrylic toe boards. Maybe a clear front clip and hood. Fantastic engine paint.
Scott
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Thank you for looking in fellas. I'm almost sure this added a couple horse power. It's got flames! It's gotta be fast, right? ;D
We all know this won't be seen once the Willys is back together, but thought it would be fun for the guy restoring it about 40 years from now. ;)
Have a great day.
Tim
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It's funny, some people see red flames....I see black drips and blobs....but if I work at it I can see the flames...!
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I like it Tim!
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It's funny, some people see red flames....I see black drips and blobs....but if I work at it I can see the flames...!
My wife said the same thing. She had to 're-focus' her attention before she saw the flames. Maybe I have a knack, and should become an ellusionist? :o ;D
Tim
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The 9 1/4� clutch disc is newer and has tons of meat left on the bones.� The bell housing and heavy duty pressure plate appear to belong to a CJ3B or early CJ5.� I did remove the ring gear and turned it around.� (You can do this on the later flywheel ring gears.)� The teeth weren�t chewed up too bad, but I wanted to know how to do it.� I did replace the throw out bearing.� The existing one looked fine, but I decided to do it anyway.
(https://s20.postimg.org/x4e36qc6l/9111067_F-5_A8_B-4893-915_F-3_C91_EF80839_A.jpg)
I cleaned up, then installed the starter. I added the �engine to chassis� ground.� I connected the starter to the battery to make sure it is grounded and functions.� All is well.�
(https://s20.postimg.org/g7p0eb4ml/8_EF4_A0_BA-_FDAB-4461-_A43_D-2_E4_C7_E541912.jpg)
I�m happy to say, I have a fresh transmission and transfer case.� I inspected them thoroughly. I found only a slight chew on the 1st / reverse gear in the transmission.� It is an M38 transmission.� There is some spot rust.� There was some water mixed with the old gear oil.� This likely got in through the top of the unprotected tranny.� No real protection from the broken tub or a rubber boot above the transmission when I got it.�
(https://s20.postimg.org/fkq3os7ql/3_C0_A135_A-_CF51-4_E6_B-9_DEC-561647156_C24.jpg)
The TC doesn�t look like it has been used at all.� It is now installed on the frame.� I�m just waiting on a front bearing cap for the TC.� I picked this up today from a fellow Willys nut.� Thanks again Wally.� Once this is on, I can hook up the front drive shaft.� Both the yoke and companion flange from the TC will get new Speedy Sleeves and seals.
(https://s20.postimg.org/8gcvthpv1/6052_E3_B8-_F942-46_E0-_B692-4412_D7_BF1_B38.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/w62bi6o8d/CF02_D622-166_F-4617-_A37_B-9584_FA911_B59.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/8hmtmwrot/B8_B906_CE-45_CB-4_C8_E-9_BD4-88_BD58_D543_F5.jpg)
I know this next comment may be met with skepticism, but I was kind of hoping I would need to rebuild these units.� I didn�t have to do anything with my first OD Willys. The PO had done this just before I bought it.� Based on the condition of this new project, I was sure these boxes were abused.� I have read all the manuals and online tutorials in anticipation of this.� I was ready. Truly, I was. Oh well, that task will have to wait for the next Willys project.
(https://s20.postimg.org/zbibunhgt/6758_D4_A6-7_D56-4542-_AA2_E-067_DAD13_CE98.jpg)
I am planning on filling the engine with oil and then doing a compression test.� Hopefully the honing and new rings will improve compression.� If you skipped an earlier post, I had done a leak down test before tearing the engine apart.� That test told me my rings were bad.� They were.�
I hooked up the PCV valve.�
(https://s20.postimg.org/tythgitkd/904_BEEC3-_E929-417_D-_AA4_F-96_F7_ABB3_FA06.jpg)
I got the spark plug wires made and installed.
(https://s20.postimg.org/f6orp6nn1/07_D62_A47-00_BF-49_A9-96_E5-938017_DA5065.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/sesqvvajx/92_C96_E02-_F34_B-45_A9-_BFC2-_C29_ECBC4831_F.jpg)
I was going to send my Carter WO out for a rebuild, but I decided to do it myself.
(https://s20.postimg.org/qluflaer1/9738_EFFB-_BEDF-41_F6-_BC21-71_D1650_C88_AC.jpg)
I installed the park break system.� This was all missing from Whitey.� Lee from Minnesota helped me out with this entire assembly.�
(https://s20.postimg.org/vkdcm2t65/4_AC9_AFEF-1_C50-4_E38-95_D0-228009_D710_A4.jpg)
New u-joints and the drive shaft are all bolted up.
(https://s20.postimg.org/ht8vjv48d/7_B2_AF822-_D03_A-4_D30-8_A05-1097_F75_A6_DF4.jpg)
I'm working on pressurizing the oil system.� I've had a few set backs, but I'll share that experience in the next update.
Tim
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You are really cooking right along now...must be those flames on the bellhousing!
Looks like you dodged a bullet on the trans/TC rebuild. I can't remember now, did you drive this Jeep before you ripped it apart? I know you posted a video of a high speed run in one of the newer herd members but I forget if it was this one or the other one. Anyways, point is, how did that transmission feel when you drove it? Crisp or sloppy? I STILL have a hard time identifying certain worn transmission innards by sight but there's no question about it when you drive them. Huge difference between the "click-click" shifts of a freshly rebuilt one and the sloppy butter shifts of one that's worn out.
Great pics. Thanks for keeping us in the loop.
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Hi Ryan,
I posted a video of each new Willys once I got them both running.� The route was similar on both videos, so I can understand the confusion.� Also, they are both pretty lame videos.� Surprised anyone watched them.
Here is the video of Whitey, taken after I got it running.
http://youtu.be/-GDt8J8eENw
The transmission felt very good on the few short trips I took.� I did shift into 4 High and Low.� The TC felt good also, but I am missing the poppet for the 4x4 High Low shifter.� That really makes shifting smooth. ;)�
My biggest complaint on the trips was the lack of power.� It had a bunch of extra weight, (heavy iron patches), huge radius tires, and the wrong size rings.� Now that these factors have been eliminated, I'm hopeful Whitey won't be such a dog.� :-/
I visited a local Willys friend who was kind enough to part with a front bearing cap for the Dana 18.� My original had a broken mounting flange.� I cleaned it up, installled the guts from my broken one, then bolted it up...
(https://s20.postimg.org/wwzn1pfzh/46_B7_B300-2842-439_F-_AB3_F-_EE74_F5_C261_E8.jpg)
Same friend hooked me up with semi matching wheels.� I originally had a mix.� 2-later M38A1 wheels, 1-M38 wheel, and 1-civilain wheel, pin stripe and all.� I traded the M38 and the civilian wheels for 3- civilian Kelsey Hayes wheels that match the M38 A1 profile.� Offsets are a bit different, but it's hard to tell by just looking at them.� This profile wouldn't be my first choice, but they are in great shape and will fit the bill.� Can anyone pick out the 2 military rims?
(https://s20.postimg.org/93gdwrc4t/13_A49_EAD-84_D8-42_F3-8798-_C21_ABB97_BA0_F.jpg)
Had a delivery late last week.� STA Super Traxion tires.� I like the look...
(https://s20.postimg.org/rryfk331p/42_F04408-_BCAF-4_B32-_B51_B-9_D7_BA01_A0_A68.jpg)
My wife needs to pick out the wheel color.� As soon as she does, I'll get them painted and mounted.� After this, we are very close to a rolling chassis test run.
Thanks for looking.
Tim
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Looking great. Bet the Missus is excited.
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Those super Traxion's will look great....I had a real struggle deciding between those and the NDCC's...
I see two wheels with the little 1/8" hole near the larger lug hole...other than that they all look the same to me....
Can't wait to see the whole package assembled.....
Maybe a pale green for the wheels...something with a lot of yellow in it....the body is going to be yellow isn't it?
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Does the super traxion tire can be considered as winter tire? I saw that we can add studs to it.
I can't use my 3A on the road during winter because I don't have any winter tire for it. Those super traxion may fit all seasons. Here in Quebec, by the law we need winter tire with the winter logo on it.
Is there a drawing like this one on the side of the tire?
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Looking great.� Bet the Missus is excited.
Thanks. She is getting excited, but probably more that I will be able to start the extensive 'honey do' list that is building daily.
Those super Traxion's will look great....I had a real struggle deciding between those and the NDCC's...
I see two wheels with the little 1/8" hole near the larger lug hole...other than that they all look the same to me....
Can't wait to see the whole package assembled.....
Maybe a pale green for the wheels...something with a lot of yellow in it....the body is going to be yellow isn't it?
Randy, Yep, the small holes are the easy give away.� They also have the safety bead hump, but that a little harder to pick up in the photo.�
On the wheel color, she is leaning toward an orange tone.� I like the green idea too.� It would look great with pale yellow, but she is growing tired of green.� OD green Willys. Her husband's clothing is heavy on the OD green. A dark green brick house.� Pale green walls inside. A Willys 2A that will go back to its original Pasture Green.� I'm still hopeful she will see the light.
Pascal,� �I don't know if they have that mark.� I will look at them tonight.� I'm curious, what do they do to you if you don't have the right snow tires on your vehicles?
Tim
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You can get a fine from 200$ to 300$ and you have 48 hours to comply with the law.
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Hey Tim,
Man you are going at the speed of light! Looks really great.
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Thanks George.� I enjoy this part of the process.� Bolting stuff back on really gives me a sense of accomplishment.
Pascal, I�m sorry to say there is no snow insignia on these tires.� They do have stud holes, so I�m guessing they are designed for snow and ice.
This project is moving along pretty well.� I�ve installed the rear bumper/cross member and the front bumper.� Walcks supplies the rivets, but I don�t have a tool to use them as rivets.� I threaded them, and then bolted them on.� (I stole this idea from someone else.)
(https://s20.postimg.org/v7v57dpnx/2_E889883-45_A2-4419-955_D-19536800_D0_AF.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/dvuslxw6l/83961_BF0-_BFD7-4_CE9-845_D-_E3_E4_D576_A161.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/hfc4y09il/2_DB42_C44-_DE0_D-405_B-99_CD-27_FACC13538_B.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/4p7wkx1kd/8006_AEC1-_B5_C8-474_C-9282-_F4950_FC72359.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/6nj5wnjfx/97269_EEC-_F415-4_ABA-_BF8_A-1_D47037_B0_A8_B.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/6z0m9ezvx/9_A5725_E7-6_CEF-4_E94-_A59_D-113_E33106_E0_D.jpg)
I ran the fuel and vacuum lines for the carburetor and pump.� The fuel delivery line is currently set up to use a gas can for my running chassis drives...
(https://s20.postimg.org/523w4u97x/6_F3_A73_C8-64_F8-4561-_A9_A4-6310_E15_A67_C7.jpg)
I received the correct radiator from my Minnesota friend, Lee.� Thanks Lee!!� The radiator was dropped at a shop to clean and check for leaks.� The guy was a hack.� He didn�t even comb the fins, then he sprayed on a marginal paint finish.� I straightened the fins.� Almost looks new.
Before�
(https://s20.postimg.org/5xvs6jtil/9_DC9_DB11-_CC5_B-4_B6_D-8260-_C27_D69_BDF1_D2.jpg)
After�
(https://s20.postimg.org/7lziyxwrx/71_EC0_B28-9423-409_E-8_CDC-03_DB9_A1528_F5.jpg)
Got my wheels back from the sandblaster.� Turn around time�three days.� Love that guy�
(https://s20.postimg.org/d8vvwezal/64_DB4_FA7-493_C-4285-_B61_C-_B929_E670508_F.jpg)
We still don�t know what color to paint them.� I might prime and paint the insides of the wheels so I can go ahead and mount the rubber, then paint the wheels their final color later.� This is much harder this way, but my wife is having trouble picking a color, and I want to get this thing back on the road.
Other minor projects completed include the clutch tube assembly, differentials, tranny, and TC filled with appropriate gear oils.� Brake system adjusted and bled.
I�ll hook up the radiator and fill it this weekend, along with the exhaust system, and the basic wiring needed to start the engine for the first time since the thing was torn down. I can almost smell the burning oil.� It�s spring time in the Rockies!
Tim�
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Wow you are getting close! Is there a name for those flat-headed bolts, or are they also modified rivets?
Good idea on threading the rivets...I've read about trying to set the rivets as they did in the factory.....I think it's another of those "don't try this at home" projects....
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Thanks. I really like the threaded rivet idea! I got my front bumper from Walck's also and did'nt know what to do with the rivets!
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I have seen these on ebay, but have not used them.
They might not even work on the 3a...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Ford-GPW-Only-Special-Imitation-Rivet-Bolt-Set-For-Bumper-Gussets-G-503-/171288370085?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e1951ba5
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I have seen these on ebay, but have not used them.
They might not even work on the 3a...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Ford-GPW-Only-Special-Imitation-Rivet-Bolt-Set-For-Bumper-Gussets-G-503-/171288370085?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27e1951ba5
Some of those fake rivets are the correct size for a CJ-3A bumper, but not all of them. Keep in mind that the fake rivets are no where near as strong as a real rivet or a 3/8" bolt.
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Engine Test Video....
http://youtu.be/j17_VRIaPjU
I really didn't 'guess' when setting the timing.� I used the GEICO method described on the 2A Page.
Thanks for looking.
Tim
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Looks good Tim. Now get some wheels on that baby and take us for a ride!
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it sounds good....runs smooth...what could be better? Wheels!!!
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I really like your movie.
While I was on youtube, I did watch your other's movies.
;D A monumental moment... ;D is my preferred one!
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Thanks for looking in fellas.� I showed the video to my wife too.� � She said it was too long and too boring.� (She just doesn't understand that Willys guys like seeing engines running.)
I really like your movie.
While I was on youtube, I did watch your other's movies.
;D A monumental moment...� ;D is my preferred one!
Thanks Pascal.� I was in a pretty goofy mood that day.� Just trying to have a little fun. ;)
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Great work as usual Tim. You have moved along on this project pretty quickly, no grass growing under your feet.
I will be interested in hearing how your two Jeeps compare when this one is up and running.
Brett
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Thanks Brett.
Funny you should mention comparisons.� On the OD Willys, I had no benchmarks.� I had no idea what to expect with regard to power, speed, leaks, etc�
I went to the Fall Colors Tour in 2012.� This was my first chance to see and compare my performance to other 2As and 3As.� I discovered I had a problem.� My Willys was under-powered when comparing it to many others there.�
That winter, I dug in.� I replaced my Solex Carb with a freshly rebuilt Carter.� I replaced my old rattling timing chain with a modern version.� I pulled my oil pump and re-indexed it.� This was most likely my biggest problem.� I had run out of adjusting space while turning the distributor.� The engine ran and sounded fine, but close timing is not good timing.
Once the above items were addressed, I took my Willys for a spin.� It was night and day.� I had far more power than before.� I couldn�t wait to get back to the 2013 Fall Colors Tour.� This would be my first chance to see how my improvements compared.�
Success.� I was able to stay with, and or, overtake some of the Willys that pulled away from me during the previous event.
Having two or three Willys at home will give me some immediate feed back.� How they pull up the same hill, how the transmission feels and shifts.� Steering� and brake performance, etc�
I just hope my OD Willys performs a little better than this one. ;)
Tim
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My wife picked a color for the wheels.� It's a very nice golden color.� It's urethane paint.� I added a flattening agent to give it a satin finish.� We are a low sheen kind of family.� Turned out nice.�
Just need some pin striping and the rubber mounted...
(https://s20.postimg.org/q9c86lb8t/6306_FC81-_FDC6-46_F3-_B233-0_EB720_A00_B9_C.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/fwlc6rsbx/F0_BFC850-_E363-449_E-_B855-5_A6_E1154_DB43.jpg)
(https://s20.postimg.org/k7002cxf1/3859_D876-_F566-40_EC-89_DE-6_AD0_DC644_DEE.jpg)
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Will the jeep be the same color, or has that not yet been decided?
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Will the jeep be the same color, or has that not yet been decided?
The jeep color is going to be a very pale yellow. Almost a cream. Should be a nice contrast to the wheel color.
Tim
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Very nice job. I'll send mine over. OD please. ;) 8-)
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I really like your color choice! As well I really enjoy your build as it moves along. Being fairly new to the site and 3A ownership its wonderful to have masters like you to emulate. Keep the pics coming I love every second!
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Thanks Kirkski.� I really appreciate your kind words.� I'm no master.� Just another guy trying to work my way through another Willys rescue.
I decided to try my hand at mounting the rubber.� I watched a couple youtube videos, and determined this was well within my skill set.�
Tools of the trade...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/3bfd00a269e4706e007b1e9d1952d357_zpsfdadeb58.jpg)
I soaped up the wheel and the rubber.�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/1c6eee1892ab1ab43213f4edc37e2a0f_zps847fce95.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/4c782f4c2e38d52074e0e065ef9629a9_zps8e6f7739.jpg)
I pressed the rim into the tire, then carefully used a couple Wonder bars to guide the first bead over the edge of the rim.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/cd10430dc6105e74aecb164d7ca6b70c_zpsf2ef862f.jpg)
Next, I fed the tube into the tire.� I aligned the valve with the hole in the rim.
I inserted the protective valve stem bushing into the hole then pushed/pulled the tube valve into position.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/1c56b8058d80514a82e42f7f7694c3b5_zps26e56d97.jpg)
I then soaped up the rim and tire before working the final bead into the rim.� I used the Wonder Bars and my body weight.�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/fde9d5833558bcfa4171da6b538b24b9_zpsae9f0ebc.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/ac4cfee890a4e917b7e8b93ae82027b8_zps1d0cfe6b.jpg)
I filled the tire with air until the beads seated, then let the air out.� I don't know that I needed to do this, but I figured it might let the tube settle in better...just in case it got twisted inside the rim.� I then refilled the tire.
Done.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/50ec6d2c1c4417be10b6e1aa818da00c_zps866500b5.jpg)
I saved about $100.00 doing this myself.� I will still take them in to get balanced.
Total time for 5 tire mounts...about 1.5 hours.�
I did an initial "mock up" for the pin stripe.� I'm following the lead set by Ryan on this task.� I mounted the wheel on the Willys.� I taped off the wheel for my initial test. I used a oiled based paint marker by Sharpie.� I spun the wheel while holding the marker to the rim.� The marker was held steady on a temporary platform.� I think this is going to work just fine.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/c1f4541b063328bf929f6ef3e663c03b_zps5c956517.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/1742acc7dbf2fc3795030f1d2005bf52_zps7379f113.jpg)
This has been a fun and productive day.� Thanks for looking.
Tim
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It's great to do task on your own! Nice. Did those valve stem guards come with the tubes? When I mounted my NDCC's I used tire talc from Napa, it helps lube the tubes into position. Also, Harbor Freight has a decent tire iron on the cheap if anyone else should do this.
Did you happen to notice any air getting trapped between the tires and the tubes when you filled them up? After many months of my tires being mounted, I got a slight phsssh, if I were to wiggle the stems. Eventually that stopped. I figured there was just small air pockets that had got trapped that eventually worked out of the rim valve hole. At 1st I had thought I had maybe pinched and punctured the tubes, but this happened on all 5. I didn't think I could of screwed up all 5. My spare, which has never been on the ground still does it barely. To this day and many miles later I have not had to add any air so I guess I'm alright :)
Looks great!
Brett
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Hey Brett,
The valve stem protectors were purchased separately.� Big O Tires mounted the wheels for my OD Willys.� The tire guy suggested them.� I figured they were a decent idea.
Yes, there was an air escape around the valve stem that led me to believe I had punctured my first tube.� As I filled the first tire, I could wiggle the valve and air would gush out.� I thought I pinched the tube also.� I was bumbed out.� When it happened on the second tube, I figured pretty quickly that it was the air being displaced from the tire as the tube filled the space.� No way I could have popped both tubes.� Once the bead was set, I let the majority of the air out, then wiggled the valve to let that displaced air out.� I then filled it back up.� Seemed to work fine.
By the way, I was inspired by you doing your own tire mounting. � Thanks!
Tim
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Ya, I had done the same, let the air out bounced them around a bit to seat the tubes and refilled. Like you, I also had researched and watched a few vids on the matter. In the past I had mounted my own radials but never messed with tubes. Figured it wasn't much different. Is really wasn't that difficult, right? I have also removed tires and I think that is more difficult of the 2 jobs.
Brett
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One big thing that makes this job easier is the fact using new tires, new tubes and clean, painted rims. If you ever have to breakdown a 5+ year old tire to replace the tube and then wrestle that thing back on a rusty rim only to find you have MORE leaks after you "fix" it...............paying a tire shop $10-20 to do it on their machine sounds good.
With that being said, you have to find a good local tire shop that is experienced with tubes. Your basic kid at Sears tire shop will probably have no idea how to handle tubes and WILL scratch (maybe bend/ruin) your rims. A lot of time tractor/implement dealerships are the place to go for this.
Great job on the write up and photos!
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Mac, that has been one of my challenges...finding a tire shop that will do it. On the green Willys, I found one guy at a Big O that was willing to give it a try. He did fine, but he no longer works there.
Figured I would give it a go, and learn something new.
Tim
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Time to add pin striping to the wheels.
This is my rig�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/c5a33c37305b6c94b2c50dd0f66ec05f_zpse22b6e0c.jpg)
This is the oil paint pen�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/f987d0879d2e6a276702869259add0c1_zps4a4904ec.jpg)
To stripe the wheels, I mounted each to the rear right side of the Willys.� I set my rig into position, then slowly spun the wheel.� They turned out nice.� They do have that �hand painted� look.� The rig took me about 30 minutes to build.� For set up and painting, each wheel took about 5 minutes.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/a6c9d676faeefb5a9c2f5b0a5d7d8a13_zpsc5ff8462.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/57f11530ba3fabeffc9b220bb78da1f2_zps2f55f05a.jpg)
Mounted the wheels to the Willys.� We have a rolling chassis�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/ec9bae599e4cb15cd1b9707c585b31fc_zps6df4aedc.jpg)
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Nice work on the pinstripes! but we have come to expect that of you....
I think the spare looks good there...everything looks to be ready for a drive around the block.....
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Thanks for the tire tutorial. Never tried it but certainly seemed like something that could be done.
Great job on the pinstripes too. I like the idea of masking off the rim for a trial run. Were you able to get a clean solid stripe with only one full rotation of the wheel or did it take a couple times around? If multiple turns, did your rig stay solid enough to retrace the same stripe or did it veer off and double the width of the stripe at lines?
Regardless, your end result looks about as perfect as you can get.
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Thank you Randy.� It was a fun project.�
I am close to a spin around the neighborhood.� I am just figuring how to mock up a decent seat, so I came in to review your rolling chassis video.
Ryan,
Again, you were my inspiration on the pin striping.� I didn't have a fancy way to hold the pen, so I made the little stand.� The pen has a chiseled tip that was approximately 3/16" wide.� I spun the wheels twice, but seemed to get decent coverage on the first spin with most of my wheels.� A couple wheels had a slight wobble, so I went around a couple times adding a bit of pressure at the pen tip.� Not all wheels turned out perfect, but they will be passable for most Willys enthusiasts. ;)�
Well, back out to the garage!!
Tim�
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Just a quick post, then off to breakfast with my family.
A couple glamour shots�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/15fae5de9a3491b76a69122d9a62e221_zps533360b9.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/6fd6177c53134be09faf093bd4354b25_zps81dc0bf8.jpg)
And, took whitey for a spin�
http://youtu.be/jM_Sx6LCqLE
[media]http://youtu.be/jM_Sx6LCqLE[/media]
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Way to ease into it Tim! I thought that was a vintage Indy car comin' round the bend! Drive it like you stole it! You've obviously proven that painting flames on a bellhousing unquestionably doubles your horsepower.
I'm still laughing� �;D ;D ;D ;D
Awesome.
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Oh Yeah! They go good without all that weight and wind resistance from the body...
You have passed a milestone for sure....
Close ups of the seating arrangement please!!
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Thought I'd give you guys a show.� This thing hauls *rear end, and handles like a Ferrari!� I wish it could stay this lite. I only ate a couple bugs.
Per Randy's request...
I used plywood for a floor and to hold the clutch and brake pedal arm in position.� I secured this by bolting it to the frame/tub mounts.�
I added a few chunks of plywood to mount the gas pedal.�
I strapped a gas can to the front and tied down the battery.
I used an old lawn chair and some scrap lumber for the seat.�
Key-switch, oil and temp gauge hooked up.� That's it.�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/2d9a7ad097284f675d5e239e48c7e32a_zpsd369f338.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/518229a8b186114c296db745333f46fc_zps10eebb79.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/cca0371295a12044ee4c43d712c2cc0b_zps6e0960fd.jpg)
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The lawn chair is perfect-arm removed for quick egress if needed!
Having a 49 with a bottom mount radiator sure simplified that part of the lash-up...
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That lawn chair arrangement is a masterpiece. I especially like the floorboards and gas pedal mount. It's good to see Tim finally humanized for once. Even Mr. Meticulous himself does have an inner Bubba� ;D
Great work!
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That's probably the most comfortable pre-ride configuration I have seen.
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Awesome once again!
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That was so cool. It will be neat to see how the wheel color and tub color blend together.
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Thanks for the great comments fellas.� Hopefully, I was able to put a smile on some of your faces.� �I had a lot of fun with the test run and the video.� I was actually going faster in other episodes.� My wife was the camera gal.� On earlier �takes�, she was having a hard time moving the camera fast enough to keep up with me, so I had to slow down a little. ;)
Randy is right.� 2As and early 3As have a bottom mount radiator, but I was still a little nervous that the air pressure would rip the thing right off.� �
Ryan, I�m as Bubba as the next guy.� Look at my OD Willys.� Nothing more bubba than making a 3A look like an M38.� At least that�s what they would say at the 503. ::)� �
My �Inner Bubba� did me proud though.� I did this set up so I could put this thing through its paces.� For safety, I wanted the pedals and seat to be roughly where they are on an assembled Willys.�
Safety�hmmm.
Oilleaker noticed I didn�t have my steering wheel nut on.� For safety reasons, I thought it best that the steering wheel remain detachable.� Don�t bother trying to figure the logic in this last statement.� I�ve clearly breathed in way too many paint fumes.� Trust me, the wheel coming off did cross my mind on a few trips around that corner, but I was having way too much fun to stop and dig the nut out of the box.
Bretto, My wife took this for a short spin.� She commented that it was very comfortable and thought maybe we could just keep it this way.� I�ll bet you can guess what my answer was�
Birddog, on my computer, the wheels seem to get a bit washed out.� In person, they look a bit darker.� �Your pale yellow Willys is the inspiration for our choice on the body color.� �I had a small sample made up.� I painted a small bracket so we could see the contrast and compatibility.� My wife loved it.� Bottom line, she wanted �happy� wheels.� To her, these are happy wheels for a happy Willys. And if she�s happy, I�m happy.� [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
To all that have peaked in, thank you for your interest and kind words.
Tim
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Have you picked a new name yet? Somehow "Whitey" just doesn't seem right.....or maybe it's perfect?
I didn't see the cup/(can) holder....Bubba woulda had a can holder.......
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Have you picked a new name yet? Somehow "Whitey" just doesn't seem right.....or maybe it's perfect?
I didn't see the cup/(can) holder....Bubba woulda had a can holder.......
�
Aaahh, you're right.� No bubba cup holder is clearly an oversight on my part.� Going to have to add one!
The thing that is kind of neat about the chosen body color is that it looks white...until something that is actually white is sitting next to the pale yellow.� Yep...it's that pale.
Maybe I can convince Birddog to post a photo of his Willys here.� It will give folks an idea of where I am going with this one.
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That will look nice...sort of an "Old English White" a creamy white/yellow....maybe a little more yellow than the Old English though....
What color will the seats be?
That is going to be a very visible Willys, which I think is a good thing.....
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Here you go athawk11
It has black windshield frame now, no roll bar, M38 top, Black wheels with yellow strip or yellow wheels with black strip. have not ade up my mind yet,
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee428/birddog77/CJ3A/image-11.jpg) (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/birddog77/media/CJ3A/image-11.jpg.html)
(http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee428/birddog77/CJ3A/image-1.jpg) (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/birddog77/media/CJ3A/image-1.jpg.html)
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Pretty quiet out there....
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Hi Randy,
Progress is being made, but has slowed to a crawl.� Your typical spring time duties, crazy work schedule, etc...
Since my last update, I have painted the shocks black and started massaging and patching the hood.� It's very rough, but it is sort of special and worth the attempt.� Whitey is an early production 3A.� The hood is original and has 2A characteristics.� Per Bob W's book, the 2A style hood will sometimes show up on the early 3As.�
Well, that's it.� I just didn't think my current progress level was worth an update.� That said, I really do appreciate you poking me.� Tells me you might be enjoying the project.
Tim
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Your progress is always worthy of updates!
Thanks for checking in.....we are enjoying your project..
Randy
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Tim, What angle cut did you cut on the 4x4 for your pin stripping block ? I have tried Lowenuf method he used on the 2a page but all the buckets I must be getting are egg shaped I cannot get the 3 1/2 in measurement. I am going to ry a find Ryans post on pin stripping.
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Birddog,
I don't know the angle. Even if I did, the angle might change depending on how high the wheel has been jacked up off the floor.
The pen I used has a chisel cut tip. I put tape on the wheel, then held the pen tip flat against the wheel at the position of the pin stripe. I put the 4x4 post next to the pen, then marked the angle of the pen onto the post. I cut the post, then added the plywood platform. It took a couple test fits and cuts before I got the height of the rig where I wanted it. I then added the small blocks on top to hold the pen securely while I spun the wheel. I put my knee on the platform to stop the rig from moving. I turn the wheel with one hand and 'engaged' the pen with the other hand.
Hope this helps.
Tim
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I am currently putting the rolling chassis through an extensive test phase.� I drive it often and hard.� Well, not hard enough to break stuff, but hard enough to expose a weakness.
In the mean time, I'm back to working sheet metal.� Many of you remember how bad the tub was on this Willys.� Unfortunately, the rest of the sheet metal was just as abused as the tub.� The fenders are probably in the best condition, so I'm saving them for last.� The grille is straight, but I will need to replace some metal below the headlight area.
The hood and windshield frame were brutalized.� I don't know if I'll end up using them, but I figured it was worth a try to fix them.
The windshield frame has the typical 80 to 100 holes to fill.� Additionally, there was a horrible repair sometime in its past.� I've cut it out and will replace with fresh steel...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/88294036abafd80789bee7bf6632b558_zps5a404247.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/ecbe225c74f5534da283ff7ba89f9809_zps3c9d3afb.jpg)
The hood is warped and had a hole cut into it.� I'm not sure why.� Maybe the PO slipped a Hurricane in at some point.�
I've started the process of patching, hammer/dolly, and shrinking.� Hoods are tough,� but I figure if I can make this one look good, then there is nothing I can't do!
Tim
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/609adba0b5dd94d9e9e5954016510cea_zpsaa587712.jpg)
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Jeeps seem to accumulate holes almost as easily as they accumulate diamond plate...
If anyone can get that hood back into shape it's you...
My windshield frame has the 15 or so holes across the top for the hard top....at just the right speed you can hear them whistle as though a few songbirds are perched up there...
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If anyone can get that hood back into shape, it's you...
I was thinking the same about you!
It's just another one of those Willys learning experiences that many of us enjoy.�
Tim
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Great work. I don't know if I could even come close to what you are doing with that hood. I had to leave most of the dents in mine. Took a lot out but way too many. I admire your patience.
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I've been making some progress.�
Full discloser...
The hood repairs have been going fairly well, but I've discovered that after many, many hours, I will need to spend many more getting it to a level that I would be happy with.� In the interest of time, and because Walcks had an Independece Day sale, I purchased a new hood.� I will continue to work this hood, but when time permits.�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20151105_162252.jpg)
The windshield has been reworked.� It's turned out nicely.� �I had to replace a fair amount of metal and the rag top channel that runs along the top edge.� I welded this on tonight, but didn't take any photos.
I've been looking for the bracket that attaches the support gusset to the frame, but finally decided to just make one.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/e13ad71db1196c6705862423bb922603_zpsb5766b0b.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/5a777af4eed00cc4cff96be139e57d6c_zps86e851f3.jpg)
The grill had some pretty bad rust through below the park light sockets and headlamp holes.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/a305bf8e517d38bebbb43bd0a210c660_zpsc083612a.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/a1a58745376374694b9cf5ab25a71a0f_zps2592dfe8.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/062a901b4799bb49379e9429cd22ddac_zps4a849318.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/81de1049492b27d7ac578d71c6e11764_zps42a99ec7.jpg)
The fenders are not original to this Willys.� Based on the repairs needed, I believe they were once on a Willys that had a V6 or V8 engine which required cut outs for dual exhaust.� They were then put on this Willys where the PO made quick and sloppy repairs to close off the cut outs.� Lee from Minnesota was kind enough to sacrifice an old fender.� He sent me the louvers portion of the driver side fender.� I cut out the old repair and welded the louvers in place.� �The passenger fender just needed the old repair fixed up a bit.� �And, of course dozens of holes were filled.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/b6822e0da90a601586ed4c1e4cab789f_zpse0e531d2-1.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/933b81a986bcbdd0cea801c321a66280_zps11c784ed.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/82dc8da8825d481bbf7d673b2ce6462d_zpsvc7xfzwx.jpg)
The grill and fenders were dropped off at the sandblaster today.� Once returned, I'll make some final welding repairs, then prep all the sheet metal for paint.�
I was hopping to have this done in time for the Fall Colors Tour.� �I'm beginning to have my doubts.� Work is really busy right now.� The long hours leave little time for Willys fun.
Tim
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Nice work Tim, and good job on the body-frame bracket......
You have some interesting rust-through areas...as rusty as my jeep was the grill was probably in the best condition...
Those fenders are a challenge, but they are looking good....
Randy
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Indeed, nice work. I love seeing home brew fab work and seeing someone to take the time to save old steel. These parts have been around for decades. Spend a few good sweaty hours and let it live for decades more.
Brett
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Good job Tim! I look forward to meeting you at the FCT in Sept. Saving original parts just feels good. It usually fits better than MD Juan also. John
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I am speechless once again, I love your metal work skills. Great thread!
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Hey Tim,
Always enjoy seeing your progress. I can relate to the work schedule, etc.! If I had a penny for every hole I had to weld up I'll bet I could have purchased some great Jeep parts myself. I always ask myself what did the previous owner have in mind when he did this.
Keep up the good work.
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Gentlemen,
Thank you for the kind words and encouragement.� Coming from this group means a lot.� I've seen the work you have all put into your Willys Jeeps. All very impressive.� Y'all push me just to keep up.
Unfortunately, I must report a setback. As some of you know, I have been driving the chassis on a regular basis. This wasn't to make my neighbors chuckle.� �It was solely for the purpose of weeding out minor or major issues before I go through the trouble of a full assembly.
In the last few runs, I have developed a gear grind when shifting into 2nd gear. I also have a weird rumble coming from the bell housing at certain RPMs, but that isn't my concern at this point.
My gear grind is sporadic. At low RPM shifting, it's smooth. At higher RPMs, the grind is subtle, but there. It also does it a bit when shifting from 3rd back to 2nd.
So, I� spent some time this past weekend removing the transmission, and buying a rebuild kit. I found a guy that has NOS blocking rings. Both NOS from India and from the USA. He is going to send me a set of each. I also bought another master rebuild kit that is likely from MD Juan or some other off shore manufacturer.
I have studied all the rebuild guides and videos. I started by taking my current tranny apart, then re-assembling it a number of times while waiting for the new parts.
What was once a scary proposition, has now become second nature.� While apart, I was surprised to find everything looking very good and fairly fresh.� This includes the parts that wear, and the parts that many here have complained about.� Brass synchros looked surprisingly good.� They still have the ridges on the tapered face and don't seem to ride too high on the tapered surfaces.� �The 3 little synchronizer plates also look new.� Regardless of the visual condition, I am rebuilding the tranny.
But this has led me to think I may have other issues.� Back to the rumble.� It seems to come from the bell housing...and only at certain RPMs.� I'm beginning to think my issues may be a bad bushing at the back of the crankshaft.� The one that the transmission inserts into.� I took a chance that this and most of my clutch parts were in decent condition.� The one time I decide to go cheap has bit me right In the butt.
So, I went ahead and bought a new pressure plate, clutch, bearing and bushing.�
For a thrasher, Whitey is a real money pit.� This Willys will ultimately cost me more to finish than the OD Willys.� Crazy.
Tim
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While I groaned reading this I would have groaned louder if you already has the tub back on before you discovered these problems. There's a reason you've been driving around the neighborhood like a wild-man in your open wheeled contraption. You wanted to shake out any issues and you did. I'll be waiting patiently for the update on the resolution.
Check your PM's btw. You have a dusty one sitting there.
Ryan
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I have to agree with Ryan. It stinks that you have to rebuild the tranny, but better now with the body off than later (like I did). Having pulled my transmission/transfer both with the body off and with it on, I can tell I thought very seriously about pulling the tub off this time to rebuild the transmission!
I think you are doing the right thing with a new clutch, pressure plate and bushing. On something that is that difficult to get to, I would error on the side of caution and replace things also. My shop time is getting more and more limited so it's easier for me to justify the $160 now for a kit than try to carve out another week later to replace it.
I wish I would have spent more time driving my chassis around to troubleshoot problems!
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Mark, Ryan,
Knowing that you are the two fellas that have the most recent experience with transmission rebuilds, I was hoping to hear from you on this. I may be leaning on you both once the parts arrive. Hopefully that's okay. :-/
Tim
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Absolutely! [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
(Although Ryan has twice the expericence as I do. ;))
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My transmission is leaking on all the gaskets and seals I thought didn't need replaced. It is doing the same as yours while shifting. I am rebuilding another to put in.
It will be interesting to see if we have the same things to correct.
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Well, here they are.� NOS synchro rings...Made In The USA.�
Ironically, they came all the way from Athens, Greece.� Go figure....
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/07-28-14-003.jpg)
I'm almost ready to rebuild the transmission and clutch system.� My clutch kit has arrived, but the pilot bushing is missing from the box.� I'm hoping to get this issue resolved soon.
I put some effort into finishing up the grille.� A small amount of filler along with a half dozen coats of filler primer with sanding in between.� Smooth as a babies bottom...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/b51cb9e0e21645db1610c0d31eb1b4ed_zpsecb3174d.jpg)
Next installment,� �T-90 Transmission.
Tim
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Yep as my Mom would say (she is Dutch) Smooth as a Kinder's Popo. ::) ;)
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The syncro rings look good...did you get them on ebay? There are a couple of overseas sellers that have interesting stuff..I got a temp gauge from the fellow in the Netherlands...didn't use it, but I got it!
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Randy,
Yes...eBay...a nice fellow from Greece.� He had listed NOS� rings, but didn't mention the country of origin.� I wanted two sets if they were USA parts.
I contacted him to ask.� I mentioned my concerns about offshore parts.� He said the set for sale was made in India, and these rings have been well tested in the Mahindra Jeeps.� He felt they were every bit as good as the US made rings.� Turns out, he had USA stuff too.� We negotiated... We agreed that he would send me a set of each.� I also have a set coming from the offshore supplier.� Omix?� Crown?� Who knows.� I intend on comparing them all...side by side. I'm no metalurgist, but I will inspect and measure them.� Should be interesting.
Tim�
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Great idea, Tim...comparing the parts side by side. should be interesting. Do we need a new area for this kind of info?
Did the wife pick out a color yet for her new ride?
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Hi Tom,
She wants a pale yellow.� She picked a color.� I sprayed an old hood.� She thought it was too pale...almost cream.� I liked it.� She didn't.� We're close, but the search continues.
Thanks for looking in!
Tim
PS: Good idea on posting to specific section.� If it ends up being kind of interesting, I'll post the info in the new "Gear Boxes" section.
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Thanks Tim,
I'll sure be watching your rebuild.....the "whine" in my transmission is getting annoying...it's not any worse than it was, and maybe a bit quieter, but it's taking the fun out of driving.....so another more careful rebuild may be in my future...
I'm going to remove the OD and reinstall the old output gear and see if that changes anything...
We eagerly anticipate pictures etc...and no "whining!"
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A short, but painful update.� Well, not too painful.� The transmission rebuild went well.� The new pressure plate, clutch, and bushing were installed also.� I re-installed the drivetrain and my temporary seating.� Time for a test drive.
The engine fired right up.� I attempted to slide her into 1st gear...and...grrrr grr gr....gear grind.� The clutch would not disengage.� I diddled around with the clutch cable for half a day.� Nothing I did helped.
I finally realized that the drivetrain needed to be pulled again.� Anyone else notice how good you get at stuff like this when you have to do it two or three times in a row?
Anyway, after reading a bunch of threads, I found that any of a number of things can cause this.� Not wanting to have to pull the drivetrain again, (3 times was enough) I decided to address every possible issue. The result of this choice is that I have no idea what my original problem was.
I installed a new pivot fulcrum and clutch fork.� The new clutch disc had a very slight warp. The old disc was, well, pretty new, so I put it back in.� The bushing was pulled, then slid onto the input shaft.� It seemed a little tight, so I reamed it out a bit.�
I re-installed the drive train and my temp seating. I fired up the engine, then pushed in the clutch. I let out a sigh of relief, then took the chassis for a spin.�
Everything went fairly well except shifting into 2nd gear.� Synchros work great, but the shifter just won't throw the gear far enough to keep it engaged.� It just barely catches, but occasionally slips out.�
I inspected the shift fork and found some decent wear groves on both sides of the fork.� The wear is even, but I am missing 3/64" of material.� I don't know if this is enough to cause my problem, but I decided to get a new fork anyway.� I will also trim some material from the poppet groove, as described in the Willys memo we have all seen recently.
This will probably be the last project I do on Whitey for a while.� In preparation for the Fall Colors Tour, I have a number of small projects planned for the OD Willys.� New brake shoes, valve adjustment, new fuel pump, oil change, etc...
Tim
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Walcks supplies the rivets, but I don�t have a tool to use them as rivets.� I threaded them, and then bolted them on.�
Tim,
I am curious what die did you use to thread these rivets? I'd like to do the same.
Thanks in advance
Kirk
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Hi Kirk,
I brought a photo forward so folks would know what we're talking about...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/image_zps3878dee8.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/image_zps49b28da7.jpg)
I used a 3/8" corse thread die to cut the threads.� It was a little tricky.� I grabbed onto the head with a vise grip, then used the die to cut the thread.� The metal is fairly soft, so cutting threads works pretty well, but it was pretty easy to dig into the head with the vise grip.� I tried to only grab the head hard enough to hold the rivets from spinning but still cut the threads with the die.� If you look closely at the photo, you can see some notches left by the vise grip.� When I did dig into the edges a little too much, I cleaned the head up with a file.
Hope this helps.
Tim
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Thank you, I appreciate your help!
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Hey Tim,
Any updates on the your new build? I just got my engine back a couple of weeks ago - now I am dry fitting all the parts to make sure I have everything required. Hope to see your most recent pictures.
George
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Hi George,
Good to hear from you.� Also good to hear you have the engine back.� Your build is about to get very fun to watch.
I've been a little sidetracked with the ODie engine knock and the Fall Colors Tour.� Things have calmed down a bit, so I'll be digging in to Whitey again shortly.� I have to replace 2nd gear.� I'm going to try to do it without pulling the transmission.� Should be interesting.
Tim
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I have to replace 2nd gear.� I'm going to try to do it without pulling the transmission
PLEASE document this process for us if you are able to.
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without pulling the transmission.
I don't think this is possible. Are you replacing it because your popping out of 2nd? I just buttoned up that problem and it is a joy having it stay in gear. I did just as you are thinking. I replaced the 2nd gear additionally, I also shimmed the output shaft inward. The synchro collar has really good engagement now. But this was all done with the tranny out on the shop floor. Let us know if and how you can tackle this without removal. You may also want to look at your shift tower fork for wear. If its worn enough, it won't push the collar back fully enough.
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PLEASE document this process for us if you are able to.
I don't think this is possible.�
Okay, so I did do this yesterday.� Keep in mind, this is on a rolling chassis, so I had access to both the top and rear of the transmission.� If you were going to try this with an assembled Willys, I think you could still do it, but it would be easier if you had a friend up top while you're down and under.� He would have to know exactly what you're trying to do.� Also, you would clearly need to drop the TC, and drive shafts.
After removing the TC, Drive Shafts, and Shift Tower, I tied the main shaft off so it would stay together.� I slipped in a shopping bag to catch the roller bearings.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1083.jpg)
Initially, I was going to try this without even draining the transmission fluid, but you all know why this wouldn't work.� The minute you remove the lower bolts that hold the TC to the tranny, it will start to leak through the bolt holes.
Next, I remove my tie off and started to move the shaft out the back. While doing this, I slid the synchro hub as far forward as I could without having the three little dogs pop out.� Here is a bad photo of me pointing at the hub and how far forward I have to slide it...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1084.jpg)
I then pulled and lifted the shaft up, over the cluster gear, and out the back.� Of course, the roller bearings all fell out, but my plastic bag caught them all...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1085.jpg)
I took the main shaft to the work bench and removed the ring at the front of the shaft.� I pulled the synchro hub off as an assembly, then slid off 2nd gear...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1091.jpg)
Old 2nd gear.� The gear itself looks okay, but the chevrons are chewed up pretty good...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1089.jpg)
New second gear� USA made from Walcks...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1090.jpg)
I slid on 2nd gear after coating it with some petroleum jelly.� I slippped the synchro hub assemble back on, then removed the rear bearing, plate and 1st gear.� It's easier to guide the shaft back in to the bearings without this stuff on the shaft.
I loaded the roller bearings using ample amounts of petroleum jelly...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1093.jpg)
Once again, I pulled the synchro hub assembly as far forward as I can without losing the 3 little dogs.� I slid the shaft in and over the cluster gear, then inserted the front of the shaft into the roller bearings.� While doing this, I carefully slid the hub rearward....
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1094.jpg)
Once the shaft was in place, I slid on 1st gear, the plate and the bearing, then tied the shaft back to the front of the case so it wouldn't slip out.� Done.
Not a bad job.� I was able to complete the whole thing in a couple hours.� I haven't put the TC back on yet.� Unfortunately. I had other chores.
To Bretto,� Where did you add the shim?� I have no front back slop when I hold the rear bearing tight, but I'm still wondering if a shim will help me.
Tim
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Bravo. Well done sir.
I hope I never have to do this but if I do your step-by-step guide makes it look way easier than it probably is. Nice job.
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Great photo's I was assuming everything else was going to be intact (t-case) when you were going to try this. But yes for sure this can be done with the tcase off.
Great job. Did you check the output shaft tolerance where it meets up with the input shaft? I made sure mine was right up and close with .012 clearance. With the new 2nd gear and that clearance shimmed up, I'm hoping to never have a #2 disengagement problem again or at least for a very long time.
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Thanks for the write-up Tim.
I think my TC will be coming off sooner than later...I'm a little concerned about being crushed when i try to remove it...
Did you use a jack or just your left and right arms?
how much do you think it weighs?� All I remember from the first go-round was that it was unusually heavy for it's size!
And please let us know how the shimming goes...
Randy
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Sorry Tim, I overstepped on the posts, didn't see you asked me a question. Probably a bit late by now.
You won't be able to check this spacing without the shaft being able to slip in the bearing.� I have an older, setup bearing that has been honed out to make it a slip fit.� Once the bearing is on along with the spacer and all is tight up against the case, the gap can then be measured from the rear of the output shaft.
I placed the shim between the stock spacer and the bearing.� This moves the output shaft into the input shaft but you don't want it in so much that it bottoms out.� The gray area is that I don't know the specific spec, or if it's published but have read it to be .010.� I assume that the stock spacer that is in there was made to fullfill this clearance but as stuff wears and cases stretch, this space will open up.
Brett
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Hi Randy. The weight is manageable, but it is awkward. Maybe 75- 100 lbs. It is a little heavier when you choose not to drain it. I did not use a Tranny Jack. There is an advantage with no tub in the way. Laying on your back would certainly add to the challenge. I think I will invest in a jack for future projects.
Thanks Bretto. I did stick the TC back on this weekend, so I guess I�m going to go for it. Hopefully I�m not pulling it all apart again, but as you know, it starts getting pretty easy once you do it 3 or 4 times.
As mention, everything is back together. I just need to reinstall my temp seating, then take it for a spin. Should have another update very soon. Once this issue is resolved, we should be back to sheet metal prep and paint.
Tim
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Ya mine has been in and out more than I can remember now or more than it should of :-[
Hopefully it all works out for ya and it probably will.
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When you know exactly which handful of wrenches to grab before starting a repair then you've done it too many times....
I'm not sure I can press that greasy 100lb casting, and then start a bolt with my third hand....
I'm going to try and make some sort of wooden cradle, and then use my floor jack...
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I'm going to try and make some sort of wooden cradle, and then use my floor jack...
Another good idea.
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Many times you can find a transmision cradle that bolts to your floor jack that works pretty well.� Here is one example..
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332755_200332755?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Automotive-_-Jacks-_-144423&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=144423&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=144423&gclid=CJ3AjsCN0MECFYKVfgod4XgAWA
Having a trans jack that is able to tilt and swivel makes installation a snap.� Also, get two 3" bolts, cut the heads off and grind the ends square.� Thread them into the bell housing and use them as guide pins when installing the trasmission/transfer case.
On a side note, those transmission jacks work great to drop a Chevy gas tank to replace the fuel pump.. ;)
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Replacing 2nd gear did not solve my problem.� I read on one of the forums that replacing the synchro hub assembly solved the problem for another Willys guy, so I ordered a new one.�
Finally had enough energy to pull the drive train apart again.� I have it down to a science.� Remove temporary seating.� Drop drive shafts.� Remove clutch and brake pedal linkage shaft.� Remove shifter and tie off the tranny shaft.� Drain tranny.� Pull TC back cover and gear.� Remove TC.� Pull tranny main shaft...all in just under 18 minutes.� I'm not bragging.� Just pointing out how good you get when you keep screwing up.
I compared the old to new.� �There's nothing left of the chevrons.� The're just nubs.
Old...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1098.jpg)
New...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1099.jpg)
I was shocked about how badly warn the old one is.� I'm finally beginning to understand what to look for when rebuilding a transmission.� I just wish I didn't have to take it apart six times to figure it out.
Should have it all back together for another test run this weekend.
Tim
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all in just under 18 minutes
And I thought I was doing pretty good getting the intermediate shaft and gear out in an hour.....
Any news to report?
Randy
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I know what you mean Tim, I'm like a well choreographed solo team when it comes to dropping that thing. Sorry you had to dig in again. After all this, you will so in tune with your gears and while shifting, you will 'see' what is going on and what is moving where.
Did you shim the clearance of the input and output shafts? It will give you more peice of mind knowing that there is more engagement of the collar to 2nd gear. I'll let you borrow my honed out rear bearing if you'd like.
Brett
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Well, my plan was to put this together yesterday and give her a spin.� Instead, I found this on Craigslist...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1100.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1102.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1103.jpg)
An original 3A windshield in excellent condition.� I just couldn't pass on the deal...� $150.00 and fuel down to Colorado Springs.� The gentleman that sold it to me was very nice.� We had an interesting conversation.� He is building a modified GPW.� He found a more appropriate style windshield for his project.
I have Whitey's original windshield looking pretty good, but the door channels are so torn up, I decided to go get this one.
Bretto,� Thanks for the offer.� I do have my old bearing, and can hone it out real quick.� Per your recommendations,� I have decided to check the end play before I button this all up again.� Where did you get your shim pack?
Tim�
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It's technically not endplay as when you button up the rear gear and nut, there is no movement. Its just the ending clearance between the in/out shafts.
I got my shims out of a rebuild set from a Dana 30 axle I did long long ago. I tend not to throw stuff out.....ya never know. The OD matched but I had to open up the ID.
I bet if you find an axle shop in your area they'd offer ya some for cheap. Just get a good mix so you can get the right combo.
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Per Bretto�s recommendations, I did hone out an old bearing then clamped it into place.� I had far more movement than the tolerances Bretto has suggested.� �Per the Novak folks, .010 to .015.��
I made a shim out of a machine bushing I found at the hardware store.� I filed and honed the inner diameter until it fit over the shaft.� I used an orbital sander to narrow the shim until my assembled tolerance was .012 - .013.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1107.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1105.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1104.jpg)
Then I came in to watch the Broncos beat up on the Raiders.�
Have a good evening.
Tim
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Tim you certainly are resourceful....I would never have looked in a hardware store for shim material...
I hope you have 100,000 miles of smooth trouble free shifting!
(My transmission is getting noticeably smoother at just over 1000 miles.....)
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Cool Tim. You know, now that you post this, I now remember seeing those at the local hardware bins..
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I�m happy to report that the transmission repairs are behind me. (Slipping out of 2nd gear after a rebuild)� I don�t know if this problem was solved by replacing the synchronizer hub, adding the shim to keep the output shaft more forward, or a combination of both.� What ever it was, the thing is shifting like a Swiss watch.
I wish I didn�t get stalled by this issue, but at the same time, I learned a lot.� And at the end of the day, that makes it a win, win situation.
Thank you to all that helped me learn about the T-90 transmission.
I don�t have any photos of this success, so I thought I�d post a flash back photo.
Tim
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130323011_zps70d1168f.jpg)
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Hi Tim,
When I look at the early pictures of your project and compare them to my early photos, it makes me wonder just what it is that draws us into these projects....what is it that tells us that we need this thing and that we can bring it back?
I don't know but I'm glad we are driven to resurrect these little jeeps...
Whitey is going to be a beauty....
Randy
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Cool Tim, a nice hurdle to be over and like you said knowledge gained. I love seeing your updates on this project. Keep at it and stay warm.
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Thanks for the kind words fellas.
?..it makes me wonder just what it is that draws us into these projects....what is it that tells us that we need this thing and that we can bring it back?
I remember a conversation between Tim and his back fence neighbor, Wilson, on the old show "Tool Time".� Wilson explained to Tim that men have an inherent need to create and build things because we are incapable of having babies.� It's our way of being relevant. :)
I don't know that I completely agree with this.� If true, wouldn't all men be driven to take on challenges like we all have?� There must be something more to it.� None the less, this conversation between two fictional characters has always stuck with me.
Tim
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So, new troubles...
I had a very slight rumble right when I add throttle. It sounded like it was coming from the bell housing.� I found a balancing shop here in Denver, so I took it all apart...again.
The Flywheel and pressure plate were balanced.� He removed 1/2 once from the flywheel and added 3/4 once to the pressure plate.� I didn't have the correct shouldered bolts required to mount the pressure plate either.� Once I got the correct bolts, I put the whole mess together...again.
Balancing the system is a good thing.� It reduces engine wear, but it did not get rid of the rumble.� I retarded the timing a small amount (maybe 1-2�) and the rumble went away.
(Bretto, did you notice I used your "alt..248" trick?)
I've read that at Colorado elevation, retarding the timing a bit helps improve performance.� I don't know if this is true, but it did get rid of the rumble.
In the mean time, my Carter WO decided it no longer wants to hold an idle. So now, I'm fighting through this issue.
Does anyone else get the feeling that the repairs on our Willys Jeeps will never end?
No good photos of this experience, so I thought I'd show you guys something crazy.� This Willys had a PTO shifter that was modified to drive a winch on the front of the Willys...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130506008_zps394b2f6e.jpg)
In this photo, you can see the shafts and a few knuckles heading toward the front of the Willys...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130506010_zpsbaf44f53.jpg)
It ends at the front bumper...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130506009_zpse52f185c.jpg)
And this is what it was all attached to...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130129006-1.jpg)
The chains are long gone, and I have no idea if this set up ever worked.� If it did, I'm convinced it helped tear the Willys to pieces.
Tim
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That's a pretty ingenious PTO system. Lots of chains...
Is that a homemade job or did some company actually produce that set-up?
Sorry to hear about the carb woes. Your ability to swap parts out in order to troubleshoot furthers my argument that everyone should have at least 2 Willys for just such issues. Swapping parts can be much easier and cheaper than blindly repairing things that don't need it. And when one is completely dead you still have a back-up to drive around :D
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That is quite a PTO set-up...imagine all those chains and the debris they'd collect....but someone did a lot of old fashioned engineering....
By the way Tim,
My engine over a short period of time went from idling fine to not idling at all, backfiring and just generally being obstinate...
I immediately suspected the carburetor and spent hours trouble-shooting...
It turned out the new points had worn where the rub-block rides on the dist cam and the point gap had closed to the point where the engine would run but fire randomly...re-setting the gap solved the problem.
The WO was just fine all along......
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Ryan, this was a bubba job, through and through. Bob W looked at the winch and determined it belongs on the back of a 60s or 70s tow truck. The PO was clever, but it's hard to imagine it actually worked. Look at the plate back by the PTO. It was just hovering in mid air. Any pressure on that chain would have probably made that plate slap around like the Patriots slapped the Colts.
Randy, I started to think it was some other issue, but as Ryan knows, I swapped carbs. The Carter from my 2A made this engine idle perfectly. Thanks for the tip though. I'll remember that one.
Tim
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(Bretto, did you notice I used your "alt..248" trick?)
??? You'll have to remind me. :-[
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Bretto, this is you...right?
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/degree-symbol-test_topic33859.html
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Ah yeah, I was trying to think of something Jeep related.
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I've been fighting some idle issues lately.� This prompted me to rebuild some Carter WOs.� The most recent acquisition (on the far right) was purchased from Mike here at the 3A.� Thanks again Mike.� This was the most challenging rebuild I've done.� I had to drill out the long idle jet and main jet.� I also had to re-tap the threads for the fuel bowl cover.� All went well.� I bolted it up for a test session...purred like a kitten.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/1869a3186542473ba9587aeaf4935381_zps212bd83f.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/9dbb6c89e869ae1444d0ad199c6aa107_zps9333ed3d.jpg)
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That's a fine looking collection of WO's. I still have yet to tackle a rebuild. Is there some sort of instruction guide that you follow or do you just wing it?
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Oh no, not a �wing it� type of project for me. Initially, I was terrified to try this. Bedrock (shows up here on occasion) talked me into trying a rebuild.
I used this guide�
http://mightymo.org/Proj_Carter_WO_Rebuild.html
Very helpful. It has blow up photos and narration, along with the original instruction sheet done by Carter.
Eventually, you won�t need the guide. Like everything, when you do it enough, it becomes second nature.
I've also learned a ton of stuff from our resident expert...ScoutPilot.
Tim
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The weather is improving, so I'm back to work on this build.� None of what I have to report is very interesting, but I may as well throw it out there.
I�m working on the fenders.� Does anyone hate fender repairs like I do?� They are difficult to work with because of their odd shape.� Welding, hammer/dolly work, and small amounts of filler.� Lots of sanding and primer filler.� It appears the previous owner had cut the fenders to make room for some V6 or V8 headers and pipes.� Those areas have been patched up, but they were pretty rough.� In my mind, these fenders need to look good.� After all, they are the reason we pick a �Flat Fender� Willys over a CJ5 etc�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1210.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1207.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160508_135217.jpg)
After a couple miss-steps, we may have found the right color yellow.� �I am using a single stage Urethane paint.� I�ve added a flattener agent to it.� I am trying to achieve a semi-gloss finish.� This is a spare hood.� This is the color, but I think I over did it with the flattener.� I�m going to shoot it again with a slight formula change.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/IMG_1206.jpg)
I�ve been running around the neighborhood in the chassis.� It seems to be running fine, and leak free�so far.
My tub has been stored in the rafter for a year or so.� It�s nearly time to bring it down and finish some minor welding and repairs to the underside.� �
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/26/20160213_103042.jpg)
This is a side bar.� I finally found a set of the correct 15" Kelsey Hayes wheels for my green Willys.� The old wheels have always bothered me, so I jumped at the chance when a friend was ready to let these go.� Sandblasted, primed, painted, mounted and installed...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/04/IMG_1158.jpg)
Tis the season for Willys repairs, restorations and lots of driving fun.� What a great time of the year. :)
Tim
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Great to see an update Tim!
Those fenders are a bear....you are constantly flipping them one way or another..I saved them for last thinking they would be relatively simple...wrong!
The new wheels give it that finished look. Didn't the old ones have the ears for hubcaps?
These look "right".
Randy
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Never get tired of looking at your 49, that is as good as it gets!
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Hey Tim,
I'm with ya on the fenders. I am at the same place on my project. Hammer, sand, hammer, sand, etc....gets really old after a while but necessary. What size tires are you running on the green willys?
Looking forward to September - Spark testing my rig next week. I have a trade show to do in Nashville starting this Sunday and not home until Thursday.
Regards,
George
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Fantastic on all fronts! Your metal work, as always, shows your level of patience far exceeds mine. Really nice work there.
And I'm a huge fan of the '49 finally getting the wheels it deserves. Do us all a favor though, would you? Get that thing completely slopped up with mud at the FCT and post a picture ok?
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Thanks all for chiming in.� I really appreciate it.
�
See!� My crappy wheels bothered everyone!!� My wife thought I was crazy to go through all the trouble.� She just doesn�t get it.� �She still can�t see the difference.
�
Contrary to what might be a popular assumption, I do tear it up in ODie.� � Proof positive below.� See the mud?
2014 Fall Colors Tour
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/09-26-14-031.jpg)
2013 Fall Colors Tour
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/09-21-13-006.jpg)
Admittedly, I do die a little inside when thinking about the hours required to clean it all back up.� Even though my wife is with me while hammering through the mud, she still has the nerve to call it a �Garage B%t@h�.
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Ok Tim, thanks. I do feel a little better now. I had to look close to confirm you didn't just Photoshop that "mud" on there but it appears to be legit.
The second photo is stellar. What an incredible view.
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Great pictures!
It's as different as seeing a bear at the zoo or one in the woods...!
(I'm talking about the jeep of course)
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So ironic that you mention fenders. ;D Mine have been hanging on the garage wall, and last week I thought I would fool with them a little to at least make SOME progress on Hoover.
Your fenders look great!
Love the photos of Fall Colors Tour!! I was really hoping to make 2015, but it is looking doubtful now. Hoover will almost certainly not be running. I could bring my '2A, but Colorado is SO far away, it would be no small undertaking.
Thanks for sharing photos. They are a great inspiration.
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Well, keep the FCT in your bucket list. For any of you Easterners that ever have a chance to come, the beers and cigars are on me. Still haven't gotten anyone to smoke a cigar. Heck, I don't smoke cigars either, but for some reason, a cigar on a Willys trip just seems "right" to me.
I know it's a huge undertaking to make a trip like that. It always amazes me the distances people travel to come to that event.
Tim
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Well, keep the FCT in your bucket list.� For any of you Easterners that ever have a chance to come, the beers and cigars are on me. Still haven't gotten anyone to smoke a cigar.� Heck, I don't smoke cigars either, but for some reason, a cigar on a Willys trip just seems "right" to me.�
I know it's a huge undertaking to make a trip like that. It always amazes me the distances people travel to come to that event.
Tim
Hawk, if the good Lords willing and the creeks go back down. (We're flooded here) I'll have a see-gar with you!!
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Gary, how about a Swisher Sweet or a Crooks Cherry?
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Gary, how about a Swisher Sweet or a Crooks Cherry?
I don't know....., :o. Most people who smoke those swap out the factory innards... ;D
-
The cigars I bring are a bit better than a Swisher, but not much better. Your typical $3 to $4 dollar stick. They are chubs, so we can have the General Patton sort of look and feel. ;D
Tim
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The cigars I bring are a bit better than a Swisher, but not much better. Your typical $3 to $4 dollar stick.� They are chubs, so we can have the General Patton sort of look and feel. ;D
Tim
Sounds like a winner to me!! [smiley=s10735.gif] [smiley=s10735.gif]
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Hi Tim did I miss the latest updates? I just re-read your whole thread... What an encouragement
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Thanks Kirkski,
Decisions to eliminate a Leaky OD Willys have chewed up a good portion of my spring and summer Willys workshop time.� This and an exhausting work schedule has put a real damper on "Project Whitey".
Now, I'm very close to paint stage...right when the cool winter season has arrived.� I'm not a huge fan of painting during the cold months, but I may still give it a try.� We'll see.
Thanks for looking in.�
Tim
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Dang Tim - I got all excited when I saw activity on your build thread - I don't think it gets any easier around this time of year either! We will all look forward to seeing your handy work.
George...........
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Ya Tim, get after it and keep us entertained. ;)
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The colder it gets, and the longer the drying times for the paint, the finer the bristles on the brush will be needed.! 8-)
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Just so you fellas know I didn't sell Whitey as a half done project...
https://youtu.be/kpga5JzLlBQ
Tim
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Tim,
I can't get the video to play....can you just copy and paste the address while it's playing? Or, tell us the title and we can search for it..
Randy
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It doesn't seem to be public.
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Okay, I fixed it.� It's just a goofy video anyway.�
Tim
https://youtu.be/kpga5JzLlBQ
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Waiting and wondering...........
Don't worry they are patient little guys. Now us on the other hand, is another story.
Looks and sounds great Tim, you do great work.
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That'll be a beauty when done, heck it already is!
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It's a beauty. Made me feel good just looking at it. Why is it when you have one done, and then ironed out, we need another one? Tell me please. Oilly
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Even your half-finished-partially-neglected projects look clean and perfect. Thanks for that glimpse inside The Hawk's Nest.
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Oilly, you are so right my friend!
Ryan, You noticed the same thing I did! The Hawk's nest - dang that is too funny.
I thought that Tim had it bad but I soon realized during FCT that Split Personality does not like to be dusty ;D
Tim, a finished Jeep would make a nice XMAS gift for that special someone! No pressure...............
I'm just jealous.......
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Tim, I was wondering if you remember which dimensions you've used when you straightened the frame. Did you use dimensions from the service manual perhaps? I think the frame of my 3A is out of wack - problem is I have removed all spring perches and have no way of checking measurements the way the book says... perhaps you measured the frame width in various locations and still remember these numbers?
thanks,
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Hi Dre,
To a degree, I used the measurements offered in the service manual. This frame took some abuse. Up at the front, the two long rails were pitched like this� \----\ (standing at the front looking toward the rear)
The long rails were also bent about 1� toward the passenger side.
Per the measurements in the manual, the rear of the frame was still in original undamaged condition, so I was able to use it to fix the front.
I used everything my shop could offer. String lines, levels, plumb bobs, bar clamps, crow bars, Kubota tractor, framing square, breaker bars�you name it�it was probably involved.
I also have a Willys with an undamaged frame. This was helpful when checking measurements.
That said, I�m sure your 3A Page brethren (including me) would be able to help you with �on the fly� measurements if and when you might need them.
Tim
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Thanks... well, I'm working on it and before I send it to the blaster I have to make sure it is straight. Still have to weld a couple of new pieces where someone cut spring mounts off with the frame. ::)
-
We all know that life and other projects can get in the way of our Willys work.� I should have been done with this 3A last year.� The weather has improved enough to get back out in the shop.� My tub has been hanging from the rafters now for a while.� Time to bring it down�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/26/20160213_103042.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160213_103655.jpg)
I organized and shifted the garage contents enough to make space for the final touches needed on the tub.� The chassis has been pushed to the corner�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160213_110140_zps58klx7dt.jpg)
The tub needs some minor welding, grinding and cleaning on the underside. The top needs a little more work too�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160220_172806.jpg)
I did a mini modification project on this tub.� Many of you have the same modification.� Some of you wish you had it.� And the folks that have the M38s�well�it�s not a modification at all.� If you ever need to drop the transfer case with the tub in place, you need to remove the shift levers first.� It�s easier to do with an access hole.� The previous owner hacked open the side of the transmission tunnel already, so I decided to clean up the hole and make a cover plate for it.
�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160220_123815.jpg)
I did a little extra by installing some spare cage nuts that were removed from an old scrap tub.� Turned out pretty slick�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160220_125115.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160220_132907.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160220_132727.jpg)
Overall a pretty fun mini project.
Thanks for looking in.
Tim
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Looks good Tim!
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Great idea and flawless execution, as usual. What did you use to cut that cover plate with? I still struggle cutting a straight line with anything, let alone something as intricate as that plate.
And I like the bucket on the shelf labeled "JEEPS". I've actually turned that corner in my garage where I only label stuff that isn't Jeep related. It's just a given now that everything else is.
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Looks good Tim! can't wait to see it in person.
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Hey Tim,
You know that we all enjoy seeing your progress and I hope the weather holds out for you. Can't wait to see the final product.
Some people would say spring is in the air and get enthused about working on their projects, I say thank goodness for the Bachelor and Dancing with the Stars for getting me into the garage ;D. I just tell Lynette that I'll be working in the man cave and she gives me the thumbs up.
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While you're thinking about the access cover you made think about sourcing the M38 xfer lever bolt that includes the zirk to lube said levers. Accessable from the cover you just fabb'd. 8-)
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Thanks for the comments fellas!
Ryan, Quit checking out my piles of crap! ;)� If you scroll in, you'll see it actually says "Seeds", but I can see why you thought "Jeeps".� We might have to schedule and intervention for you!
Rick, My pin is a 3A...and has a zerk fitting on the end.� I did buy a zerk that points downward to make it easier to grease it from underneath, but I think I'll spin it to point upward.� �[smiley=thumbsup.gif]
I think we can all agree�the replacement rear floors are expensive.� Every time (twice) I come to the conclusion that I can fix the existing floor and save the cash.� And every time, I end up kicking myself.� No matter how hard I work this surface with the hammer/dolly, there is still room left to use some body filler.� To make it look at least decent, you have to put in the time.� �All said and done, this surface will take more time and effort than the rest of the Willys combined.� So, am I really saving anything?
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160305_172141.jpg)
The underside received some final grinding and welding.� It�s ready for some primer sealer.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160228_181415.jpg)
Barring any missteps, I�m hoping to have this tub ready for a finish coat this spring.� If everything works out, I might try to bring this one to the FCT this year.� But I tend to say that every year, so....
Tim� �
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Really nice Tim!
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Thanks Kirk!
Hey, where you been?� I've been hoping for an update on your project.� You know it isn't over after the chassis run. ;)
Tim
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I know, its been a rough to get any time on the Jeep.
Plan is to bring it home Saturday and bring the Tub to the shop so I can start that. I hope with the warmer weather to get banging on that next week.
Thanks for asking!
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Well, it�s a little quiet at work today.� And it�s a little quiet around the 3A Page, so I thought I�d offer some updates.
As weather and work schedule permits, I have been working feverishly on the tub.� The majority of my time has been spent trying to get Rachel (my wife) to commit to a final paint color.� (This simple decision has been going on for 2 years now)
�
-Florentine Pale Yellow: 1987 Saab� just not quite right.
-Sample of Pale Yellow from Sherwin Williams�not quite right.
-Another sample of Pale Yellow from Sherwin Williams�not right either.
-Nassau Cream 1950 Jeepster�not quite right.
The winner:� Phoenician Yellow: 1965 Ford Mustang color.� Done!� Paint is made and on its way.
In all honesty, they all look the same to me. The preference was a �creamy pale yellow�, not a lemon/pastel pale yellow.
I�m at the stage of spraying high build primer, final sanding, epoxy sealer, and re-drilling holes for all the bolt-ons.
Remember this?...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130323008_zpscd49a3d0.jpg)
Turned out pretty decent�
�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160409_115604.jpg)
All drilled for footman loops�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/146334EC-C5B8-4564-82F6-55A954D29554.jpg)
Not matter how hard I try, I screw this up every time.� The old gas tank I�m using for measurements must be the culprit�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160326_155844.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160326_160036.jpg)
A few more bolt-ons�.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/BBF16358-C27C-4F36-B7B6-4A30FF39DFF2.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/D30E7863-9833-42F2-AF3B-8DAC490A6985.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/A57CB524-87F8-4C56-9DE9-963CD223EEB9.jpg)
Guess it�s time to rebuild my temporary paint booth.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/1772F3FC-ABBD-4858-8405-A638A52C7AA0.jpg)
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Boy Tim, you are right at the top of your game with this one. I've come to the conclusion you have summoned some otherworldly powers in order to save that rear floor as there really is no other logical explanation.
As for the gas tank, your old one was correct. It's the new tanks that are off. I had to do the same thing on my red 3A. The only difference is your modification looks clean and professional. Mine looks like it was done with a dull sawz-all...probably because that's what I used.
Can't wait to see this one on the road no matter what color it ends up being. Fantastic work.
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I agree, you are a true artist at this. Always nice to see your work.
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[smiley=s8725.gif] Tip of the hat to ya Hawk! Well done!
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Truly impressive, Tim. An aside...in 1965 my aunt bought a brand new "Phoenician yellow" Mustang. I was 9 and thought that was about the coolest car ever. Of course it bought her a lot of good-will too. To this day I have a tiny Kodak photo (black and white) of her and the Mustang hanging on my fridge. As a little kid I was a car nut before she bought it, but that car definitely sealed the deal. It is a good choice for Rachel's ride!
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Tim, I appreciate all the pics on that great work of art! Especially the hat channel work...it'll come in handy as a reference for me soon when it comes time to fabricate big portions of my tub...
Thanks!
dave
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Good stuff Tim, looking forward to seeing the final product...
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Very nice . . I am sure to be referring back to these photos as I proceed with mine.
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Hawky, it does my heart good to relive in my memory what you are doing. Nice job on detail! You have 7 weeks until The BHR and I think you can do it. Bring the sweetie up and we'll baptise it with good clean salt free mud! :D Your wife will kill you. Oilly
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Thank you Gents. I appreciate your thoughts. Could never pull this stuff off without my 3A Page Brethren.
Hawk
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WoW! That's all I got.... But seriously, with the little bit of body work I did I realize what you have gone through to get the tub to look so nice. Sometimes I wish I had pulled the tub and done it "right" but I just don't have that in me. Cheers to you!
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WHAT, The Floreatine Pale Yellow didn't make the cut for the paint color. :'( . Nice job on the body work. The temp paint booth looks neat. Do the two fans have filters behind them and I assume that is the exhaust side. Do you draw fresh air from the back windows. Thanks for posting pics too. Getting ready to install my door hardware and pic's help. Now I have to get in gear and get my front axle back underneath .
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Thanks Trenton. I�m a self proclaimed idiot on this one. Not sure why I worked this hard on it. It�s for my wife�and she is going to beat the crap out of it anyway.
Birddog, I knew you�d be bummed. Quite honestly, the PPG numbers of these two yellows are very close.
Florentine- 82737
Phoenician- 81444
Side by side, I couldn�t really see a difference�but Rachel did. It looks like PPG yellow shades get darker as the number gets larger, so Phoenician is probably a little more pale.
The photo of my paint booth is from the first Willys. I did install filters behind the fans, and drew in fresh air from the back window in my garage. It had filters on the back wall also. This next temp paint booth is getting some upgrades. I picked up a 24� barrel fan that moves up to 4200 cubic feet per minute. The new booth will also be larger. 12� x 12�. The old one was 8�x10��just barely large enough for the tub and some walking space. The fan should be able to replace all the air in about 15 seconds. If too much, the fan can be turned down to 2800 cfm. I�ll take a photo when I get it set up.
Thanks again everyone. I really do appreciate the nice feedback. Critical feedback works too. Any suggestions will always be received with open arms. :)
Hawk
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Hey Tim,
Glad to see some progress and we all look forward to the final product. Almost makes me want to go out and get another project!
Notice I said almost............ :)
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Tumble...Don't you have a Willys Wagon to beat up on? ;)
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What are you trying to tell me Tim! :)
Yep I'm always chasing a leak.
I think Jeeps are a constant project ;D
Keep up the good work I am anxious to see some activity on the 3A page as well.
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Well, UPS lost my paint. Tracking says it made it to UPS distribution center in Coloradol It sat there for 4 days... then disappeared. :-?
Who wants to bet that part of the floor at the UPS facility is now Phoenician Yellow? ;D
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Or the inside of a UPS truck is Phoenician yellow. I was at O'Rielys and a FedEx truck was buying oil dry to spread in his truck to soak up 4 gallons of paint that fell off the top shelve. It was everywhere.
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Well, still don't have my paint.� It's probably a good thing.� I went ahead and assembled Whitey to double check, mock up, finalize fitment.� I did run into a few minor snags.� Reproduction hood needed some tweaks. Fender mounts required some adjustments.� Still need to adjust the reproduction clutch and brake pedal arms, but all in all, Whitey sits pretty nice when considering what I started with.
I built a boom arm for my tractor.� Makes installing the tub a breeze...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160508_135149.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160521_163046.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160522_095701.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160522_191258.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160524_172121.jpg)
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Did you actually drill a series of holes in your tractor bucket for the sole purpose of making a Willys tub install less of a chore? I absolutely approve.
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A "can do" guy that Hawkridge!
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Hawk, I am thoroughly impressed with the amount of engineering going on in just one of your pictures. A functionally designed and fabricated boom attachment for your tractor, lifting a beautifully restored tub on to a well engineered folding table riding on an 8 wheel drive multi-directional articulating base.
And an upgraded paint booth!
Very impressive!
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Thanks! I think I�m like all you Willys guys. We seem to think like old farmers and ranchers. We figure out ways to solves problems with just the junk we have piled around. ;D
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Tub is finally painted.� The paint finish is a little more complex than a 68 year old vehicle deserves, but all in all, it turned out pretty decent.� The goal was to have a "Happy Willys".� This color should fit that requirement.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160609_205142.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160613_054708.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160613_054652.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160613_054640.jpg)
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The color is more subdued than I was expecting. Gotta see it in the daylite. The wheels will really set it off. Nice work Hawky!!
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Man, that looks great Tim. Perfect color choice.
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Showroom quality..... nice!
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The paint finish is a little more complex than a 68 year old vehicle deserves, but all in all, it turned out pretty decent.
I wouldn't expect anything less outta your shop. Looks fantastic man!
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Hawky, looking good! The only dirty looking anything in your pictures was your Kubota. I washed mine for the first time. Felt guilty. Your paint booth set up looked like the Mayo Clinic ;). muley and I will provide you with the final piece to Rachel's Jeep when you come to the Hills. See you soon, Oilly
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Hey Hawk,
I'm glad to see some progress and I have no doubt that it will be a darn near perfect!
Glad your getting some good weather -
Keep posting 'cause we are ALL watching............
George
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Really looks great...tough to find a "happy" color for a Willys...the original colors were so drab.... ;)
But, I think you've done it...
My green jeep makes people laugh, but it might not be because it's a "happy" color....
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You guys are always way too kind.� I appreciate your thoughts and comments...very much.� Thank you.�
Muley, the color does seem to wash out a bit in the photos.� In person, it is more yellow.� Eventually, I'll drop it on the chassis and drag it outdoors.� It may show the color a little better.� I want to thank Rick and Leaker for picking up a gas can holder bracket at the military vehicle gathering in Idaho.� I am setting the spare tire on the tailgate like a military setup.� Made sense to balance it all out with a gas can.� You can see all the predrilled holes in the tailgate.
I did a little more work tonight.� This part always hurts...Drilling out the original grill for turn signal sockets and bulbs.� This set up is much more clean than my first attempt.� I give credit to Ryan, Garage Gnome, Johnb3b, Kenny_kustom, and others, for finding this solution a few years back.�
Drill it out to 3/4"... Ouch....
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160614_202537.jpg)
Universal 1157 socket.� $3.00 each.� Compact dual filament bulbs from Speedway $2.00 each.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160614_202028.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160614_202321.jpg)
Fits very nice with plenty of room between the bulb and bezel...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160614_202137.jpg)
PS...Randy, I think your CJ5 is a very 'happy' Green color!
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Looks great Tim. Thanks for tallying up the $10 cost for the turn signal conversion. I think when I tried this I spent about $100 on parts that didn't work before I settled on a similar set-up. :D
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Tim looks great, do you have the part numbers on the lamp holder for the turn signals?
Kirk
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Thanks Ryan. Credit to you for fighting that fight.
Kirk, picked off the rack at Autozone. Dorman Universal Socket #85803.
Tim
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Thanks Tim, excellent work...
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PS...Randy, I think your CJ5 is a very 'happy' Green color!
Thanks Tim, can't wait to see your 3a assembled and outside...I think it'll look great...
Everyone but me calls my CJ-5 "Kermit"...a "happy" name for sure!
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Set the tub tonight.� Good view of the color contrast between the tub and wheels.� My wife gave it a "thumbs up".� And that's all that really matters.� I really like the way the satin clear coat knocked down the shine.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160617_183305.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160617_193807.jpg)
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Pale yellow with contrast marvelously with some of that Colorado mud. Remember, that's why you built this thing, right?� Or have plans now changed? ;D
Looks great, as always.
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Nah, plans are the same. She will torture it. I just can't control my OCD. ;D. Although, I did scratch the underside of the tub with the transmission shift lever...and I'm not going to fix it. ;)
Tim
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. Although, I did scratch the underside of the tub with the transmission shift lever...and I'm not going to fix it. ;)
Tim
Good to see your symptoms are improving. Baby steps.... ;D
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Tim, I love the color combination, very nice work!
Kirk
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Set the tub tonight.� Good view of the color contrast between the tub and wheels.� My wife gave it a "thumbs up".� And that's all that really matters.� I really like the way the satin clear coat knocked down the shine.
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11 Willys White/20160617_193544_zps6c7r525w.jpg)
[smiley=s7075.gif]
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WOW, I really like the tub color and wheel contrast. That color really looks close to mine maybe a little lighter. Really nice job.
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Thanks for the "Thumbs Up" Muley.
BirdDog,� I think we would have to put them side by side to see the difference.� Maybe that could happen at some point!? ;)
Been moving forward with some minor stuff.� Hood blocks are made.� I had a couple chunks of Mahogany laying around.� Hood drilled...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160629_194855.jpg)
Lots of little parts have been primed and painted satin black...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160629_182705.jpg)
If all goes well, I'm hoping to have more of the sheet metal painted over the long Independence Day weekend.�
Oh... I discovered BoltDepot.com.� Good prices on bulk nuts, bolts and screws.� I've started having issues finding slotted standard screws used on our Willys Jeeps...verses the Philips head stuff.� Check them out if you're interested in original style screws.� �� �
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I want to see the gas can carrier all clean and mounted. On the tailgate, they used 4 one inch thick spacers. The military vendors all have them. Oilly
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Leaker,
I did get the holder blasted and painted this weekend.� I looked for a set of the spacers.� I only found them on one site.� $32.00 for 4 chunks of metal. >:(� Hell No!� I will use over-sized nuts for spacers.� Go ahead...call me Bubba!
My plan did come together.
I was able to paint the rest of the sheet metal and accompanying parts.� �Only one clear coat run that I can�t live with. (Top of the fender.)� I�ll fix it sometime this week.
� �
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160609_193204.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160706_200243.jpg)
I�ve started to assemble some stuff�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160709_154908.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160709_155442.jpg)
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This weekend was fairly productive. Not pictured� I fixed the bad clear coat run on the top of the driver side fender, and painted the seat frames and pans.
Got the tailgate set, along with the gas can holder and spare tire mount�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160709_154749.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160709_155410.jpg)
Shot of the internal tailgate reinforcement�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160709_154839.jpg)
The grill needs the bezels (on order from Walcks), but everything else is installed.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160709_160403.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160709_160351.jpg)
Fenders are on and the wire harness is in place and partially connected.� I need a couple gauges ( on order from Walcks).
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160710_185329.jpg)
The final major �sub-assembly� will be the windshield.� The glass is being cut at a local shop.
Hawk
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Stellar job, Tim! The paint...is it a flat sheen with a satin clear coat? I'd say it is as close to perfect as you could ever get.
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Beautiful!
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Wow. Fantastic.
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Tim,
Great job as usual - This is going to make for a great early XMAS present!
You-da-man...........
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Thanks all!! Many of you have been at this very exiting stage. Everything is painted. (Almost everything.) All the pieces are in hand. (Well, most of them anyway.) It's all down to assembly. I get so wound up, I don't want to leave the garage.
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Any chance we will see it at FCT?
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Tumbleweed, that is my goal. At this stage, I see no reason why I wouldn't get it done.
The last big challenge will be getting it titled. The rest of the story...
Bought it from a guy(who never transferred the title)...who bought it from a girl...who's father owned it, but he died. I have a title with his name...and an official document that gave the daughter "Power of Attorney"...and a bill of sale with her signature... Signed over to me by the guy I bought it from. Still with me?
Hopefully titling it will be easier than the sequence I just laid out. :-?
Hawk
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Fantastic!
That story could be the start of a good country song!
Keep us posted on the finishing touches and of course the maiden voyage video!
Tumbleweed......
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The DMV may want a VIN verification so be sure to have your ser. # on it. You might need to have the PO's signing over to you notarized. Better plan on a trip to the DMV just to see what all they will require - or just call them. My experience up here is that they can usually spell it out for you on the phone which may save you some brain damage. Can't wait to see the finished product!
Sweet that it's a '49 - you'll get to have the cool "yellow on black" '49 plates again!
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Tumbleweed, that is my goal.� At this stage, I see no reason why I wouldn't get it done.�
The last big challenge will be getting it titled.� The rest of the story...
Bought it from a guy(who never transferred the title)...who bought it from a girl...who's father owned it, but he died.� I have a title with his name...and an official document that gave the daughter "Power of Attorney"...and a bill of sale with her signature... Signed over to me by the guy I bought it from.� Still with me?�
Hopefully titling it will be easier than the sequence I just laid out. :-?
Hawk�
Either go with the story or try and get it titled through one of those title agencies that do untitled vehicles. I had the same instance with mine when it changed hands twice before getting to me - DMV had a bit of a problem figuring things out but in the end it's all good - title in my hand.
Great job - really jealous as I'm still stuck in first gear with mine. Paint job gave me some ideas.
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In SD, I had to go back to the previous guy and have him fill out a affidavit and get it notarised for DMV's satisfaction. They are scared of being sued for titling a stolen vehicle. Chain of ownership , all legal first or no title. Good luck Hawky. Oilly
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Thanks fellas. Excellent ideas. I did forget to mention that I also have a copy of the death certificate of the original titled owner. To be honest, I'm kind of excited to lay this out over at the DMV. Should be good for some real fodder. ;D ;D
Hawk
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Next time I see ya Hawk i'll have to tell you my title adventure..
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Hey Hawk,
I was thinking about your story above and I realized that this would make a much better blues song and not a rockabilly song! The more I read over this the funnier it gets!
Hope you don't have any major issues going legal! At FCT we should gather around the ice chest and share our stories about getting titles. I would like to hear RICKG's story too!
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Tom,
The paint finish is a standard gloss base coat with a satin clear coat.�
Except for the turn signals, the harness is all hooked up.� All lighting is working.� The grill is done.� The gauges and dash are nearly complete.� Here are some detail shots...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160716_214013.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160716_213847.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160716_213831.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160723_175749.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160903_184410.jpg)
I took the speedometer apart to clean and lube it.� Unfortunately, I broke the glass putting it back together.� This will delay finishing the gauge cluster, but I did find this...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160716_095229.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160716_095159.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160716_095218.jpg)
A Mr. Burk looks to have taken this apart on a couple occasions.� In 1948 and again in 1953.� He signed his name on the inside of the housing.� I love this stuff.� I've hidden similar markings all over this Willys.� Hopefully the next owner will get a kick out of it as much as I do.
Hawk
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Awesome work Tim, I love it... Very inspiring!
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I assume that was the recorded mileage on that date. Someone was driving the wheels off that buggy.
Nostalgic find for sure, Hello Mr. Burk where ever you are!!
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So, who will get to drive it first when it's done?
The first drive can't be far off....
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Thanks to all for looking in.
Rick, That's a better explanation (mileage) than I came up with. I thought it might be a part number he replaced.
Randy, I'll probably have to do the 'shake down' run...or at least be with her. I think this thing is pretty mechanically sound, but I'm still nervous about her being stranded somewhere. Her daily driver is a manual transmission, so she'll be fine once she figures out that the 1st gear position she is used to will make her go backwards on this thing. ;D
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Wow...! Excellent work. Congratulations
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Really looks nice Athawk11. I wish mine was as clean looking as yours. Mine has a older repo tub on it and the PO did not take the time to fit everything properly especially the tranny area.
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Thanks Migel! Go to the 'Once You've Joined" section and tell us a little about yourself.
Birddog, Yours is every bit as nice as this one. It's just been used. This one will have the quality soon enough. ;)
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Well, wrapping up the Whitey project.� I finally had some time to install the glass in the windshield.� I don�t know about others, but this chore is a real *rear end kicker for me.� This was a good solid 2-1/2 hours of sweating, cursing, and bleeding, but it�s in.
There are still some minor issues to work out, so it�s not officially a �runner�.� My eBay purchased vacuum wiper motor doesn�t function.� Have to get new glass for the speedometer.� Still need to figure out why the fuel gauge acts like an ammeter. Need to re-spray the clear coat on the hood. (It was too shiny.)� Paint the raised Willys lettering on the hood.� Weather seal on the windshield vent.� Need to reset the �toe-in� now that everything is installed.� Still need to pick out a horn and hook it up.� Rear view mirror.� Hood blocks.� Little stuff mostly.�
Most importantly, (at least to my wife) I still need to get all the �bling-bling� installed. Doggy stickers, bottle openers, etc�
Glamour Shots�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160725_192522.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160725_192411.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160730_180301.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160730_180313.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160730_180348.jpg)
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Looks like it just drove off the showroom floor....only better!
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Tim,
You know we all admire your work! Love the color and I am looking forward to seeing it in a few more weeks possibly.
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I'm always impressed!! [smiley=s7075.gif]
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Just beautiful, Tim! Kind of hate to get it dirty. Maybe Mike will only take us on "clean" trails next month. Yea, right!
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[size=12]Man Tim what a beauty, nice work!![/size]
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What a jewel, be proud brother.
Outstanding!
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Smokin' Tim! And are those my favorite $7 Lowe's floor-mats in there?? I like it!!
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Thanks everybody!!! It's been a challenging project that has run on far too long. There have been plenty of hiccups. Mainly caused by my idiocy. :-? :-[ It's nice to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Hawk
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Looking very nice Hawk [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
For your fasteners are you using stainless? Paint them? Natural zinc?
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Hi Roger,
Just your everyday standard issue zinc plated.� On my first project, I tagged and bagged ever bolt, but went with mostly new nuts, bolts and screws.� I learned how time consuming it was to clean up these old pieces.� I realized they would quickly rust over again if I didn't get them replated.� �I decided this wasn't worth the fight.� I'm just not that much of a purist.� Now, on something like yours, I may consider a more purist approach.
Hawk
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Very nice work Tim. Can't wait to see it in person!
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Thanks JPet. If things work out, I hope to have it at the FCT this year.
Tim
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Thanks JPet.� If things work out, I hope to have it at the FCT this year.
Tim�
Then what'll you drive?? ;)
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Thanks JPet.� If things work out, I hope to have it at the FCT this year.
Tim�
Then what'll you drive?? ;)
Not sure I can get them both on my trailer.
I guess I won't get to drive this year. Strictly a passenger. ;)
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Doggie hut with Air cond. next? See you soon, Oilly
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What a truly amazing transformation!!� Such perfection!!
Tim,� you are a wonderful inspiration to all of us.� �Makes me want to get mine back in the garage.
(http://
http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/20130129003.jpg)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/20130323008_zpscd49a3d0.jpg)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/20160730_185710_zpso9u2whs7.jpg)
(http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa397/athawk11/athawk11%20Willys%20White/20160731_204921_zpsfto2bs0f.jpg)
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JeepFever,
Thank you for the nice comments...and for pulling up some 'before-and-after" shots. It's much appreciated. Even I sometimes forget how rough old Whitey was back then. :o
Tim
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I keep telling myself it's not the same jeep but I know better..
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Gonna need white cloth gloves to drive it Tim! :o
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Thanks Rick. New hood... and a different windshield frame, but the rest is the real deal. :)
Leaker,
It's a Thrasher! No 'White Glove Willys' in my stalls. But...I am trying to keep the seats free from my oily hands. At least until I get it titled. ;D
Tim
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Just a few more detail shots of stuff I�ve wrapped up.� I have a couple more items to share, but we are close to calling this one done�
Wiper motor connections...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160814_122954.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160817_164644.jpg)
Hood blocks and hood latches...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160814_122838.jpg)
New data plate from dataplates4u.com. Beautiful work by Roberto...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160814_122553.jpg)
Vintage Coca-Cola bottle opener.� Pretty sure this was "Standard Issue" on early CJ-3As... ;)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160814_122435.jpg)
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A photo of ODie and Whitey cuddled up together in my garage...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20161223_171822.jpg)
You may have noticed how much taller Whitey is than ODie.� A full 2".� Odie has the original warn out suspension.� Not wanting ODie to feel emasculated, I've decided to replace his suspension...
ODie will never sit as high as Whitey, but I wanted him to be able to at least look Whitey in the eye. ;D
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Beautiful, Tim. Have you run it good yet?
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Really nice Tim....makes me want to do mine over again!! :D
Do you have a picture of the metal (copper?) part of the wiper motor tube on the inside of the windshield frame?
I never really finished that, just ran a rubber tube the full length from engine to wiper motor...
Randy
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Tim,
Very nice! With the new springs (sprangs in Texan!) you may want to add a little padding to the driver seat ;D
We're going to have to change your name to the Jeep Whisperer - man you do good work. Love the dog on the gas can.
Where did you find a good vintage jerry can? I have purchased 2 and they are both rusty as heck. I thought that I could clean them out but no luck. Good thing I only paid 20 bucks for them.
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Thanks everyone!!
Aboyandhisdog,
I have run it around a bit.� I do have to dial in the timing a little more�and get rid of the lag when I accelerate, but for the most part, everything is working pretty well.� It�does�leak�a small amount from the rear main.� Dang.
1955CJ5,
I�ll shoot a photo of that piece tonight.� I made it with brake line.� I shaped it to match the original using one of those tube benders that looks like a spring.� It turned out pretty close to the original look.� I still have to dig in to the wiper motor.� It�s not running.� Dang.
Tumbleweed,
The doggy sticker is a �Must Have� for Rachel.� My challenge was to place the sticker here without having the Jerry Can strap over the doggies face.� I made a plate out of a scrap piece of aluminum.� I�ll eventually paint it to match the Willys.
I have the same issue when I find these Jerry Cans.� This one looked like it was in good shape until I wire wheeled the bottom.� This exposed a number of pin holes.� I cut the bottom out and welded in a new one.� While it was open, I thoroughly cleaned the interior.� I plan to coat the bottom with Rhino-Liner.� That reminds me�I haven�t done that yet.� Dang.
When you think you�re almost done�you�re really not.
Hawk
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Tim, I'm finding at our altitude 10 BTDC is the ticket. Would like to know what you come up with when you get there.
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Hi Tom,
This is my current timing struggle.� If I try to go much higher than 5�BTDC, I get an engine knock.� If I retard the timing too much, I create a lag on acceleration.� I'm going to hook up a tach/dwell...and a vacuum gauge and see where I end up.� I'll let you know.
Randy...Here is the photo of the tubing for the vacuum.� Not an overly difficult piece to make...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160817_164715.jpg)
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Thanks Tim....I'll need to get it done now, no more excuses!
Nice to see another picture of the dash though...it's flawless....
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Wow. That's a heck of a sight seeing Odie and Whitey side-by-side. Really sharp. So good, in fact, it makes me want to burn down my garage and find a new hobby. ;D
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No love for the 'Brown' badge?
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Wow. That's a heck of a sight seeing Odie and Whitey side-by-side. Really sharp. So good, in fact, it makes me want to burn down my garage and find a new hobby.� ;D
Woe!� Now that's too extreme.� You have wicked skills that I'm just trying to keep up with.
No love for the 'Brown' badge?
Okay Bretto, I have to admit I don't know what Brown Badge refers to.� I Googled "Brown Badge".� The description on the� Urban Dictionary site is...well...Let's just say...I don't think this is what you're referring to. ;D
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LOL ;D
I meant the Brown badge on the windshield vent cover in the before pics. At least I think it reads Brown.
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Laughed out Loud ;D. Okay, I get it now.
I still have that door and the 'Brown' lettering. That may have had some meaning for a previous owner, but that is in the past now.
That said, if anyone wants that Brown lettering, you can have it. ;)
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Make that 3 old roll bars, I've got one out back from my 3A..It did make the shoulder straps work ....
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I still have that door and the 'Brown' lettering. That may have had some meaning for a previous owner, but that is in the past now.
Maybe a retired UPS driver?
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Maybe a retired UPS driver?
Possibly. Because of title issues, I have tracked down the last actual title holder. He is not a UPS guy, but someone in its deeper past might have had UPS ties.
Some of you guys are lucky to know your Willys' history. I'm not so lucky, but I do enjoy speculating...imaginary or not. ;)
Tim
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I worked on the vacuum wiper motor.� I cleaned it, polished the vacuum chamber and lubed it with lithium grease.� I made sure all the channels were clear. I was able to save the gaskets.�
I reassembled it and it now works very well.� Maybe too well.� The wiper function is almost...violent! :)� I think I'm going to have to fix up the motor on my green Willys now.�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160824_105740.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160814_122921.jpg)
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So when I get my tubing section made I'll have to take the wiper motor apart.....Mine works but needs encouragement!
Now, about that "Brown" logo..I know I've seen it on heavy trucks..
Is it like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-BROWN-METAL-SEMI-TRUCK-TRAILER-EMBLEM-/291832580959
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Yep, that's it.
$60.00? ;D Didn't know I was sitting on a gold mine ;)
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Didn't know I was sitting on a gold mine
The are worth even more if they are rusty!
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Here is some stuff I've wrapped up.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20161118_161410.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160827_091446.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20161208_165723.jpg)
And finally, the finishing touch that makes this Rachel's Willys.� She wanted a "Happy Willys".� I think we pulled that off.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160827_091611.jpg)
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The lettering is perfect...as we have come to expect....
Do you have a Boston Terrier?...at least that looks like one to me....
A happy jeep for sure.
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Thanks Randy. I cheated. I used a Willys stencil and an air brush. :)
Yes, we have four Boston Terriers. Rachel got involved with a rescue group a while back. I've always been a big dog guy, but it's hard not to fall in love with a Boston. They are the 'clowns' of the canine world. Lots of personality.
Tim
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Seriously Tim, that Jeep looks amazing, better than showroom fresh... Dang... Gives me something to shoot for! Great work
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Some more glamour shots�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20170506_185018.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160827_123842.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/20/20170318_124159.jpg)
The original period correct license plates ended up matching the wheels.
�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20170207_182904.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160828_105054.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/20160828_104722.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/13/Whitey-passenger-side.jpg)
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Awesome, Tim. Can't wait to see it in real life. Wally and Clementine (and Rachel) too!
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WOW!
One thing for sure - on the first day of FCT we will have some nice looking Jeeps - What day are you arriving at Mike's?
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Tim would you say that your tunnel transistion piece to the hat channel is butt welded?
I got mine from Classic Enterprises and can't decide if it is supposed to butt together or go over the hat channel...
At the moment it does not sit right trying to overlap it. But I hesitate to trim it back without asking
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Hi Kirk,
I'm not familiar enough with the Walck's set.
I purchased my channels from Midwest Military.� I like them because the hump portion of the channel is part of the long rear channel.� This set is designed to overlap in the center.� They fit together nicely so there was no guessing.� I welded the overlap seam completely.� I purchased these for both 3As.
https://midwestmilitary.com/midwestmilitary/m38p12.html
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130624025_zpscb326bf3.jpg)
I know this doesn't help you at this point.� This may be a good question to post on the Tech page.� I'm sure others here have purchased the Walck's set.
By the way, your tub looks great.
Tim
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Really don't think you want to butt weld that since is it a structural element... that weld would end up cracking with the flexing... really needs to be the overlap like Tim mentioned. I had the Walcks set of hat channels and the hump but ended up leaving the original in place and just cut and blended the new rails over the top of the existing... welded it up.
Roger
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Sorry Kirk,
You got them from Classic Enterprises, not Walck's.�
I may be wrong, but I think the CE and Walck's are similar...where the hump portion is a separate piece.
I agree with Roger.� It may not fit quite as nice as a trim down and butt weld, but I would probably be inclined to leave the overlap.
I tend to get a bit OCD about stuff like this, but quite honestly, once the tub is re-installed on the running chassis, you won't see it...unless you get under there to wipe down the underside.� I'm guilty of this.� ::) ;D
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That drive-by in ur earlier video..made me smile & made my day. ty That rebuild is extraordinary. Very nice job indeed. Congrats.
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Thank you Trijjicon. I appreciate your comments. In the chassis video, I was was actually going faster in earlier versions, but my wife couldn't seem to keep up with me while filming. I had to slow down to help her keep the Willys in frame. ;D
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I just got finished looking back thru all the posts on this build. I'm glad u recorded it...cuz most would say....there is no way that is the same jeep. :) Whatta skill set u have! Absolutely gorgeous. I know she has to b tickled silly. I'm soooo jealous/envious..^..^
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....there is no way that is the same jeep.
I think the whole build is photoshopped! ;)
Still...did a great job though...nobody can photoshop like Hawk!
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Yea Tom, I am wondering about this myself now that you mentioned it! Something just doesn't add up - even the spark plug wires are in perfect alignment - hmmmmmm! ;D
But then again, we know Tim and he DOES good work! ;
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You fellas are way too kind. My real motivations are to keep up with the work that you all put forth. :)
Tim
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Truth be known buddy, your rebuilds, in this format will be looked at for a long long time and inspiring many folks to come. Be proud my friend!
Brett
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Thanks Bretto.
Bretto...a true Willys 'Master Fabricator'. [smiley=s2120.gif] [smiley=s0817.gif]
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Well, after 6 months of hell, frustrations and agony, I finally have the title and plates for this darn thing. I want to take it for its first legal spin, but I can't.
I had surgery to fix a torn rotator cuff and partially torn biceps. My shoulder had been bothering me for nearly 2 years. I had no idea it was this severe. :-?
Hopefully, I'll be ready for the coming driving season.
Tim
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I just worked up the nerve to challenge Hawk to an arm wrestle.. Heal up quick my friend, we got miles to jeep this summer!
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Bad luck, Tim. I hope you're 100% very soon. I want to see the new ride running.
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You can ride with me Tim! Oilly
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Thank you Gentlemen! I appreciate it.�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/22/IMG_0255.jpg)
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That's a tough way to get out of shoveling snow. Do your therapy and get well soon.
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Heal well Tim, I know the agony well after totaling my Harley last April.
I trust you'll be on the mend soon!
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Well, after 6 months of hell, frustrations and agony, I finally have the title and plates for this darn thing.� I want to take it for its first legal spin, but I can't.�
I had surgery to fix a torn rotator cuff and partially torn biceps. My shoulder had been bothering me for nearly 2 years. I had no idea it was this severe.� :-?
Hopefully, I'll be ready for the coming driving season.
Tim
What Tim didn't tell us was just how tough he really is!
They did the surgery through the nose!!!!!
Hang in there Tim and do your therapy - 12oz can curls I hear is good!
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Sorry to hear about ur pain in the shoulders & the agony u went thru on ur project! More than a few of us can attest to what u went & r going thru. Pace urself so u don't re-injure. Get urself back out on the trails. Take care. Randy
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I guess it�s what we all face as we get old. Time slips by so fast�and seems to accelerate as the years pass. I feel like a 30 year old guy�until I look in the mirror. :-?
As you all know, this vehicle takes both arms to drive. I fully intend on seeing many of you on the trails this summer and fall! Just cut me some slack when you�re behind me�and wondering why I�m driving like a dumb-*rear end. :-[
Thank you all for the Well Wishes. I really do appreciate it.
Tim
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Rachel took her first �legal� trip in Whitey this past weekend.� A grocery run.� Big smile on her face. (Made my day.)
Regarding starting and shifting; there is still a bit of a learning curve to overcome, but she�ll figure it out.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/22/IMG_0250.jpg)
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No fair Tim! We need a pic with the smiley owner behind the wheel doing the "jeep wave".. Glad Rachel is so happy with it..
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[size=22]WOW
I like it!
[/size]
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It sure stands out in a crowd!
I think you achieved your goal of a "Happy" jeep...
Not your average grocery getter..:)
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I just re-read your first post on this project..
Pale yellow, yes..
Thrasher? Not!
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I have not checked in for a few months, but perfect timing -> caught the maiden voyage of your wife's "smile generator" :) . . It looks amazing!
Wishing you a speedy recovery from your surgery :-)
Is this really February, and no snow in CO?
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Great finish to the project Tim, it was a long time coming...
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Looking good. You must have taken the shot before the crowd gathered around it. Summers coming! Oilly
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So Tim, maybe I missed it but how is Rachel's jeep running? Does it ride and run as strong as OD? Are you having any issues or is it as solid as it looks? You sure do beautiful work.
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That jeep looks very nice !
Guy
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You guys are all awesome!� Thanks for looking in.
Tom,
As of now, it's running nice, strong and tight.� I have some minor projects to finish up.� Battery hold down.� Gas gauge still acts like an ampmeter.� Maybe some other little things I can't recall right now.
Like all of them, I suspect other issues will flair up as we increase the shake down runs, but overall, I'm pretty happy with it.� The transmission is tighter and quieter than mine.� The brakes work better than mine.� Kinda makes me want to tear into ODie and make some improvements. [smiley=happy.gif]
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.. [smiley=s7075.gif] [smiley=s7075.gif]
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Hi all,
Nothing new to report. Well, a couple things. After a long trip and a heated up engine, I noticed I was showing no oil pressure at idle. It would bounce back up to 12psi while cruising. Still a bit scary, so I removed the brand new gauge and installed an old original gauge. It shows a minimum oil pressure of 7psi at idle and 24 psi while cruising. I feel better about these readings, but have still decided to replace the old oil pump. I'll do this fairly soon and report my findings.
The main reason I chimed in was to move this build thread back to the top. I am slowly replacing the Photobucket links and it's a pain in the *rear end to go back and find this thread. Bringing it back to the top will make the transition a bit less annoying for me. >:(
I hope everyone is having a great summer! :)
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Works for me, Hawky! What are your compression readings?
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Hi Tim, RFJP has a made in USA Melling for $149...
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Tom,
It's been a while since I did the minor rebuild on this. They were high 90s across the board at that time. I haven't checked it recently, but the engine runs strong...and doesn't smoke. ;)
Rick,
Thanks! Already got the Melling (USA) on the way.
Tim
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Tim,
It's awesome you're replacing the image links. Lots of work, and you're doing it the nice way so that it flows with the text.
Thanks for that!
Gotta keep the '3A site vibrant!
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Hey Tim, hope all is well - sorry about butt dialing you again! Dang you must be on my favorite list!
George..........
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Thanks Dave.
I too prefer the photo following some verbiage. As you say, it seems to flow a little nicer.
GEORGE!
Didn't even realize you butt dialed until I looked at my missed calls. How about you call sometime...on purpose! :)
Tim
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I finally got all the photobucket links replaced.� What a pain.� Took hours over weeks, but I wasn't going to let Photobucket win. Bastards!!!!
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/11/20130129005.jpg)
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Show off!! (Ol' Muley exclaims with more than a hint of jealousy) [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
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Muley,
You're right. It might appear I'm showing off. That's not what I intended. :-[ I changed the photo to show Whitey on Day One.
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Yea...I liked the previous pic you posted better, Tim. Still dying to see Rachel's jeep in real life. At this point it's just an urban legend! :o
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Muley,
You're right. It might appear I'm showing off. That's not what I intended. :-[� I changed the photo to show Whitey on Day One.
You walk the walk and talk the talk Tim..nuthin wrong with showin off when you can back it up!! ;) Tom's right, put the other foto back up-and UM will we be seeing Rachel's urban legend on the trail next spring??
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I liked the other photo too.....and it looked like there was room for one more jeep?
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Okay,
How about this photo.� It will answer Randy's question of whether or not I have more space for another Flat Fender...
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/11/07/garage.jpg)
Please note:� Rachel has her own separated garage space for her car.� I'm not forcing her out into the driveway.� At least not yet. ;) ;D
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I see a garage addition is in your future Hawk! [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
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I see space for at least one more flattie. Then just put that pickup truck outside where it belongs and there is plenty of room for more.
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I see space for at least one more flattie. Then just put that pickup truck outside where it belongs and there is plenty of room for more.
And then you just take the Sawzall and cut those pesky trusses out of there and put in a lift or two...
-
You know that Kubota demands quite a lot of space..just sayin..
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Bob is probably right. I could squeeze one more in there, but this would make it impossible to work on something without pulling stuff out into the weather.
Rick, I love that little tractor almost as much as the Flatties. It would brake my heart to leave it out...shivering in the cold. :'(
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Hey Hawk,
Your Jeep friends will help you raise a new barn!
I'll be there if there is free beer!
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I see a garage addition is in your future Hawk! [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]
I know a guy who can get'cha a screamin deal on garage doors...
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Dang, I forgot to personalize it! Can you get an automatic opener to do all 4 doors at one time!
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Wow. Nice building. If you're all willing to come out and help build it, I'm in!
This building looks deep enough to add CJ#4, CJ#5, CJ#6 and CJ#7. ;D
Tall ceilings might give us some lift room. CJ#8 thru CJ#15. ;D ;D :)
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Wow.� Nice building.� If you're all willing to come out and help build it,� I'm in!
This building looks deep enough to add CJ#4, CJ#5, CJ#6 and CJ#7. ;D
Tall ceilings might give us some lift room.� CJ#8 thru CJ#15.� ;D ;D :)
Geez, Tim, who do you think you are...Oilleaker??? ;D
I do like the way you and George think though. Maybe you could convert it to jeep condos.
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Run it by Rachel 1st or add a matching 3x5 doghouse in the yard with "Tim" on the door.. [smiley=rolleyes.gif]
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Run it by Rachel 1st or add a matching 3x5 doghouse in the yard with "Tim" on the door.. [smiley=rolleyes.gif]
Laughed out Loud! ;D
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I believe I�ve finally finished Whitey. I�ve been looking for the correct horn for most of the time I had been building the darn Willys. I�ve had a few close calls and missed opportunities over that time. This is not the exact model that would come with an early 3A, but it�s very close. Only the most ardent Willys horn guys can spot the difference.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2018/01/26/01E4F188-551A-4396-B2AC-DC29E4495EFE.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2018/01/26/4DEC0C17-20BD-4E1E-9DBF-AC46155F75F3.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2018/02/28/20180225_175511.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2018/02/28/20180225_175540.jpg)
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2018/02/28/20180225_175607.jpg)
His and Hers 3As�
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/11/25/20171123_121926.jpg)
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Beep! Beep! :D
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Is the pitter-patter of little baby jeeps in their future? :o
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I believe I�ve finally finished Whitey.
Wow, I don't believe that I have ever finished a Jeep. I need some lessons! :)
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They look nice together...the perfect couple :)
To me the jeep horn makes a "jeep-jeep"......a fitting final touch!
But are they ever really "done"?
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I may have spoken too soon. The skid plate isn�t installed. No cup holder, and I have Lowenuf made 3A bows, but no top. Crap! :-[
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You still have plenty of time before June!
What's the deal, no snow on the ground!
Just a few more accoutrements and you will be on projext "X" that we saw in your garage. ;D
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You still have plenty of time before June!
What's the deal, no snow on the ground!
Just a few more accoutrements and you will be on projext "X" that we saw in your garage. ;D
Project X (Smokey) was at the BHR last year. Before it makes another appearance on the trails, I'll need to get the smoking engine under control. :-[ I want to bring it again, but I don't know if I'll have time to fix what needs fixing until I open it up. I was kind of embarrassed. The darn thing didn't smoke until I had it on the trail. The engine was seized when I got it. I did break it free, but never really dug in to it.
(http://www.mywillyspics.com/images/2017/10/28/IMG_1986.jpg)
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I like the looks of Smokey! Which Jeep are you bringing top BHR?
And as always Tim, your work on the restorations is to be admired down to the last deatail!
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I hitched a ride in Ol' Smokey @ BHR last wear and had a blast.. Muley..
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I hitched a ride in Ol' Smokey @ BHR last wear and had a blast..� Muley..
Oh yea? Well I was following Smokey and not loving it! ;) ;D