My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your CJ-3A Project => Topic started by: Ryan_M on January 26, 2014, 05:53:55 PM
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I've recently started a few mini projects on my '51 3A and since I never really had a dedicated project thread here, I figured I might as well do it now for Round 2. Most you you know this already but for those who are new, allow me to bring you up to speed:
This is how it looked when I brought it home in Oct '11.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/SANY7812_zps130b487e.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/SANY7815.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/SANY7833.jpg)
Within a couple days, and with virtually no mechanical knowledge, I went looking for the source of the failed brakes and this happened:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/SANY8131.jpg)
Through the power of the internet and one small triumph at a time, somehow it managed to end up like this:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1975_zps205a0fc3.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20130112_202900_zpsdaa108bd.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1601.jpg)
So I did a lot of repairs but there were some things that I skipped over or just plain did a terrible job at. For a rookie effort, I expected as much. I'm now going back and either touching up some of those issues or servicing things that simply need a little maintenance.
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I have been battling a small leak around the new water pump that persistently and quite annoyingly results in coolant blowing all over the passenger side of the engine every time I drive it.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1611_zps3730eb67.jpg)
Grill, radiator, and water pump removed. Water pump mating surfaces cleaned, threaded holes in block cleaned up. New water pump gasket, sealant, and bolts torqued to spec. I wish there was a good way to test for leaks besides putting everything back together and driving it. With the radiator out it's a good chance to clean up some of those places that are impossible to reach otherwise.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1630_zpsa1e5c8b7.jpg)
I drove over 3500 miles last summer which was its first full season on the road. After about 3000 miles I started experiencing an occasional death wobble. The steering was rebuilt almost entirely during the initial rebuild - new steering box innards, bell crank kit, tie rod ends, connecting rod kit, etc. Pretty much everything but the king pin bearings. Time to take care of those.
It's amazing how crummy brand new brake hardware can look after only a year. I'll do a better job painting everything before it is reinstalled.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1613_zps61db33b4.jpg)
Knuckles on their way out.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1614_zps3f1dd300.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1618_zps57a3dad7.jpg)
You can see 3 out of 4 races are pretty badly worn. That makes the effort worthwhile. It'd be a little discouraging if I found no wear!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1628_zps93984406.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1629_zps08a82a72.jpg)
Axle in a bag.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1627_zps8f0b4acf.jpg)
This is a slippery slope. I'm not wanting to open up the differential and attack it too but that all-too-familiar saying "Well, you've gone this far..." is creeping back into my head. We'll see whether or not I listen to it.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1631_zps37ff5358.jpg)
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Are you still finding NH mud?
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Are you still finding NH mud?
Lots of NH mud. Did I roll the Jeep upside down in bog and not remember it?
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The brake shoes look like they've worn pretty evenly, given that you thought they might be the wrong size.
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Find two pipes that fit your radiator hoses. Buy pipe caps for them. Drill and tap both, one for a Schrader valve, and the other for a pressure gage. Install one in each radiator hose, then use a tire pump to pressurize your cooling system to 2-5 lbs above your cap rating. Now, you can look for leaks without the engine running or the radiator installed.
You can use the same setup, with short pieces of radiator hose or the whole hoses from your jeep, to test a radiator.
There are commercial pressure testers, but the adapter to a jeep size cap might be hard to find nowadays and you'll spend plenty just buying the set.
If the radiator is in already you can use a tee off a heater hose to do a similar thing. Or pop the upper hose off and use the pipe, this time with your gage and Schrader valve installed in the side wall of the pipe, and an additional short piece of radiator hose to complete the circuit back to where you pulled the hose from.
If you have ever done a whole house plumbing pressure check for the building inspector it is the same sort of deal. Just less pressure. Too much and you'll bust the radiator or heater core.
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Good idea Bill. if I were doing this a lot I'd probably rig up something along those lines. For now I'll bolt it back up, run it, and hope for the best. That usually has a 50/50 success rate. I'm willing to play those odds today.
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Ryan,
You're having too much fun. I'm throwing the red flag and asking for a review. ;D
'Upon further review, repairs to two different Willys at the same time is not fair. That will be a 10 yard penalty and loss of down.'
Tim
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Football analogies from a Broncos fan to a Pats fan are most unwelcome at this particular time. Too much, too soon Tim. It still hurts.
You know you're a Willys nerd when you compile a Winter Project spreadsheet for two Jeeps and two trailers. With a little luck I can have 4 Willy's related projects going simultaneously before I'm done here. That should give me plenty of opportunity to really screw something up.
I'm already working on the 2015 list. I really need that welder....� :D
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Football analogies from a Broncos fan to a Pats fan are most unwelcome at this particular time. Too much, too soon Tim. It still hurts.
You know you're a Willys nerd when you compile a Winter Project spreadsheet for two Jeeps and two trailers. With a little luck I can have 4 Willy's related projects going simultaneously before I'm done here. That should give me plenty of opportunity to really screw something up.
I'm already working on the 2015 list. I really need that welder....�� :D
My bad , Ryan.� I'm hopeful that you'll be rooting for the Broncos to beat the Hawks this weekend. ::)
I thought I was the only one doing lists.� Mine is a little more high tech than yours.� Excel spreadsheet! Has additional notes including tools, materials, and potential suppliers/vendors for said items.� It also includes web site addresses.� Once the listed item is complete, I change the font color to RED.� Who's the kook now? :D
I really enjoyed following the progress on your fist build.� It's good to see Old Grey again.� BTW, did you ever give it an official name?
Tim
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I thought I was the only one doing lists.� Mine is a little more high tech than yours.� Excel spreadsheet! Has additional notes including tools, materials, and potential suppliers/vendors for said items.� It also includes web site addresses.� Once the listed item is complete, I change the font color to RED.�
Impressive indeed. I've avoided too much detail on my Excel sheet. I'm afraid I might accidentally AutoSum the total expense and fall out of my chair.
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Lists?
Normally in pencil, scribbled on any available piece of paper, usually a packing list from Walck's or similar. Each item scratched out as it's completed or abandoned.
List is typically lost before completion...
But then I make a new list.....
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King pin bearings are in and all components that came off have been cleaned up and repainted. Amazing how dirty this stuff gets after only a year on the road (and a day of following Bill and GarageGnome through the NH woods).
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1637_zps4cfefc2a.jpg)
I threw in the towel and replaced all the brake adjusting hardware. Adjusting brakes is a pain on a good day, doing it with crusty old hardware is even worse. Out with the old, in with the new. New knuckle seals and felt installed. I did clean up those old bolts and coupled with new washers was able to reuse them all. That part looks good but now the rest of the axle looks like crap in comparison. Here goes that slippery slope thing again....
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1686_zps143ff92d.jpg)
Thought I'd get a little crazy with the brake cylinders. Athawk hasn't been the only one splashing around in red paint this week. Do red cylinders give it more horsepower? I think so. Can I say I'm driving a "sleeper" now?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1750_zps866960a0.jpg)
The brake cylinder paint was only just to test what the color looked like. The real reason I bought it was for the wheels. I only have three out of the five painted and clear coated but I had to do a test fit tonight.� How's she look in red??
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1755_zps018b76a8.jpg)
Now to engineer some way to apply the black pinstripe. I've come up with a few ideas and I don't like any of them.
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Holy Cow Look at those RED wheels!!
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Holy Cow Look at those RED wheels!!
It's all your fault.
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It looks Great!
Jeeps need a little color....
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Yep, the red wheels with a grey Willys has surely become one of my most favorite combinations.� Very nice Ryan!� Love the red cylinders too.� Kind of wish I thought of it.
:)
Tim
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You need to stencil "Brembo" on that brake cylinder....
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You need to stencil "Brembo" on that brake cylinder....
Good idea! I'll get to that as soon as I'm done installing the drag chute.
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Ryan, I'm thinking that the Jeep poster hanging up in your garage needs a new home. I would humbly offer some wall space in my office to take that off your hands....
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Sorry, it was given to me by a friend and I was thrilled to get it. I just found some reproductions for you here though:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-Kaiser-Jeep-ID-Poster-MB-M38-M715-CJ-FC-DJ-Wagon-Jeepster-Super-Wagoneer-/331105139534?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item4d17677b4e&vxp=mtr
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I really like the red wheels on it. Looks great!
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I'm diggin the red!
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It's time to give the rear axle a good follow-up vist and address anything I skipped (pretty much everything except the brakes) during the initial overhaul.
Drums are off with this handy-dandy puller courtesy of BMIC (you can finally have it back now, Bruce...). If you're using anything other than one of the pullers to remove rear drums you are wasting your time.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1818_zps8eb2bea6.jpg)
I removed the rear differential cover for a quick peek and noticed some significant play in the small spider gears.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1822_zps564ccd65.jpg)
From a couple other threads and some additional online research it is clear that I definitely have a problem. I've been skirting the idea of a differential rebuild out of sheer intimidation but I'm tired of dreading it. Time to conquer the demon. Let's get to it.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1820_zps179fd075.jpg)
I don't have a slide hammer but I found that by attaching the drums to the axle shaft I could use a block of wood behind the drums and with a few solid whacks from a BFH the axles popped right out.
Bearing caps removed and labeled. Don't mix these up!!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1850_zpsd8b273e2.jpg)
Axle housing on the operating table. The manual calls for a spreader but states a couple pry bars will do the trick when removing the carrier. I can vouch for that substitution.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1854_zps68264840.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1861_zps8c9d2693.jpg)
Here's the offening spider gears. No real obvious problems but I will likely replace them.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1864_zpsf22999a9.jpg)
More poor man's tools.
A large pipe wrench works well to hold the yoke while removing the nut. Be sure too leave those little u-bolts in place. They will protect the thin metal of the yoke from damage should the pipe wrench slip (ask me how I learned this).
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1868_zpsd545ba6f.jpg)
Next up is a 2-jaw puller to remove the yoke. This thing fought back pretty hard. I find it amusing that in the Moses Ludel book he has pictures of a 12-yr old kid zipping this yoke off like nothing. I suggest in the next printing that the kid should be covered in blood, sweat, and grease for a more realistic representation.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1871_zps6faf42f1.jpg)
I gently tapped, and then smashed the pinion out of the housing with a BFH and a brass drift.
Alternating various length "punches", I removed all the bearing races and the axle seals. Here's the longest reach - going all the way through the axle to get one of the outer grease seals. A couple taps and it popped right out.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1884_zps5a9e3ba7.jpg)
Here's one of the races from the differential. Does this count as wear? Yikes.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1858_zpsc951a6e5.jpg)
So here's everything laid out.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1885_zps56aefd16.jpg)
I don't own a bearing puller of any type so I need to get one to complete the disassembly. I'll clean and inspect and then place an order for any new parts required. I'm still apprehensive about putting this thing back together. When I see words like "endplay" and "shims" and "bearing preload" I get nervous. Has anyone found a definitive "how-to" guide on a Dana 44 rebuild? There's plenty of resources for bits and pieces but no one-stop-shopping for how to really get it done. Demon conquered or not, I'd rather not be back here anytime soon - not on the same axle at least.
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Really like the red wheels. And stay with the chrome lug nuts, no matter what the Correct Police say. They'll tie in nicely with the trim rings.
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If I was in your shoes, it looks to me and Bruce W. too, that your spider gears are worn which allows the play you found. I've seen spider gear kits with new shims and gears, which would solve that problem. If you take things down, make sure you keep all the shims and locations documented. The caps that hold the carrier in are marked with a circle that is vertical or sideways and so is the housing. ( mine were anyway). Looks like you are replacing bearings and races too. You are going to learn allot. Toe, Heel , backlash, depth all work together to get the right pattern on the ring and pinion. I know you can easily put 300.00 in just bearings into it. You might consider another rear end that is good if you know of any. You can fix yours, it's only money! :'( John
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I am going to rebuild it and I have a box of goodies on the way from Walck's. I'm still looking for a good rebuild guide. I have documented where all the existing shims go but does that mean with new spider gears, bearings, races, seals, etc that the shims will all be the same? I'm thinking at the very least I need to be able to check them. Anyone have a good resource as to how to do this? Probably the best I've found so far is a downloadable guide from the Dana website. It seems pretty good except that the pics are so fuzzy you can't really see anything in them. I'm simple. I need pics.
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We did ONE rear end in college, and it was pretty much just a take it apart and reassemble job. The main problem areas that you must get right are pinion preload and ring gear/pinion mesh. A lot of guys bring their rears to folks that do them all the time, as it is such finicky work.
A lot of times you read about having a set of setup bearings so you don't have to keep pressing new bearings on and off as you try out different shim packs to get the pattern and preload right. If you are replacing your old bearings use them to make setup bearings out of as long as they are still intact. (You'll need to hone out the center holes so they slip on instead of having to press them on.)
Good luck with it. Good pictures as you go and a little typing and you could make your very own rebuild guide and be as famous as Rick Stivers....If you decide to do that we have a good place for it in the FAQ section or even the home page..
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New spider gears won't affect shimming the rest of the diff.
The theory is that dimensionally new bearings should be the same as the old ones so if you reassemble with the same shims you will be at a good starting point. That's why you can use the old bearings for setup. Machining tolerances and wear will change your preload/patterns slightly so you might have to adjust the shim pack to keep the same as it was.
It looked like you have a decent looking wear pattern on the ring gear so hopefully you can recreate that.
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Now you won't be happy until you rebuild the front one. :-)
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Now you won't be happy until you rebuild the front one.� :-)
That's what I've been quietly fearing now. Thanks for dragging it out in the open.
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Besides a Willys CJ3A factory repair manual, try and find a Auto generic thick repair manual from the 50's that covers the dana 44. That's what the mechanics from that era would reference. It has pictures for you. John
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Maybe worth a try??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DANA-44-SPICER-Front-Rear-Axle-Service-Repair-MANUAL-11-Total-Manuals-/110802406078?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item19cc568abe&vxp=mtr
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I have discovered several manuals online that have been very helpful. Changing the Google search from "Dana 44 assembly" to "Dana 44 Setup" opened up a whole new world.
The process of measuring backlash, endplay, pinion depth, and shim placement is very tedious but really doesn't seem all that impossible....assuming you have the right tools. I have some but not all of them. The other thing that would help tremendously is having a set of reamed out "Setup" bearings to easily slide on and off while adjusting shim thickness. I have already ruined one of the old bearings trying to remove it (lack of proper tool) and I'm not sure that I want to invest in yet another set of bearings just so I can ream them out for a one-time use.
I may roll the dice and just assemble with the shims exactly as I found them. I'm still a ways off from assembling anything though. As if there were any doubt, I'll let you all know how it goes.
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I may roll the dice and just assemble with the shims exactly as I found them.
That is what I'd do...gotta start somewhere and you might just get lucky...
I didn't even open my differentials....wouldn't have known what to do if there was a problem anyway....but now I'll have a rebuild thread to refer to!!
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I looked at Ebay for Dana 44 bearing kits and found one setup kit, with just the bearings , no races, for almost $80. They did not mention anything about them being honed or reamed out to slip on easily.
I also found a set of Dana 44 Carrier bearings for $44. (With races..)
I would bet you could resell a set later if you did choose to buy a pair of bearings.
It also may be worth finding the actual bearing numbers and consulting with a local bearing supply house to see if you can get some for a better price.
As far as putting it back together with the current shimming, that's what they taught us to do for a start....
Do you have a dial gage with a magnetic base for measuring lash, etc? Harbor Freight does sell one and it isn't too awfully bad.
There is a guy who makes a pinion set up tool for the WWII rear axles, not cheap but supposedly saves a bundle of time....I wonder if you need something like that for your axle..
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I made a set of set up bearings. They get you close, but are not the same as the new ones. All they do is get you close. Depending on wear, The pattern on mine usually ended up good on one side and off on the other due to wear. So, I focused on the thrust side pattern since you go forward most of the time. If you get a even pattern with the correct backlash, that's as close as you'll get with used ring and pinion. John
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I just watched this..it might be useful...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAqAqODmcj4
A couple more views and I think I'll get it....
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If you use the same housing, carrier, and gear set, the original shims should be fine. If you change any one of these then the original shims will be a good starting point.
Keep in mind that all D44 differentials don't use the same bearings, for many reasons, so be careful when purchasing kits from eBay and the like.
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Bearings are coming from Walck's so hopefully they have it figured out. I'll verify everything just in case.
And according to Randy's video, as long as I wear a blue lab coat I'll be fine.
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And according to Randy's video, as long as I wear a blue lab coat I'll be fine.
And you will need that nice bench, diff vise and a Snap-on dial gauge...!
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Bearings are coming from Walck's so hopefully they have it figured out. I'll verify everything just in case.
You will get the correct bearings from Walck's.
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If anyone is looking for a complete money pit of a project, I highly suggest totally disassembling your rear Dana 44 and spreading the pieces out across the garage floor. What an abomination. I would rather rebuild three T-90's than repeat what I've done to this stupid rear axle so far and I've barely accomplished anything. In hind sight, I should have replaced the spider gears, the one damaged carrier bearing race, and left everything else the hell alone.
Given this is such a nightmare, I've decided to attempt setting it up from scratch. Simply slapping the existing shims back in place and bolting it all back up is apt to yield acceptable results but if it doesn't this monstrosity isn't something you can just pop back apart and adjust. Bearings, shims and who knows what else are likely to be damaged with every attempt to disassemble and make adjustments.
I'm forging ahead with a plan of making set-up bearings, races, and going through the motions of and measuring each step of the way. Best case scenario, I'll still have to assemble and disassemble the entire thing on multiple trial runs with the set-up bearings before hammering home the real ones. It's a bona fide project.
I am not confident enough to even begin a "how-to" guide here but I have a few examples of what not to do. The carrier bearings were a real nightmare. When trying to remove them, unless you want to drive back to Harbor Freight with a completely mutilated bearing splitter set you just purchased the day before, don't do this:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1892_zps3b61706f.jpg)
Or this:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1895_zps882fb81c.jpg)
And for the love of all things decent don't do this
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1888_zps11baa66b.jpg)
Smuggling this through the living room past your napping wife isn't a good idea either but that's a different story:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1900_zps6c5c058b.jpg)
This is the magic formula that finally removed the carrier bearings. A Harbor Freight large bearing splitter with a 2-jaw puller.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1896_zpsb57679b3.jpg)
Shims bagged and marked. I will reuse the ones I can and will replace the damaged ones with new shim packs of the same thickness. It'll be a good starting point anyways.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1899_zps6a632710.jpg)
With the carrier properly gutted the disassembly is complete. I got to the first step of installing the pinion gear. Using what few bearings I didn't destroy during removal, I'm making set up bearings that can be slid on and off by hand.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1913_zps8b197352.jpg)
It is encouraging that all the bearings and races received from Walck's are Timkens, just like the l ones I took out.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1909_zps5d4fb9d4.jpg)
Pinion gear with new inner pinion bearing and old "set-up" outer bearing.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1914_zps0a9cf30d.jpg)
For the bearings I destroyed I'll have to make the set-up bearings out of brand new ones which is kind of a shame but that's the way it goes.
I picked up a set of race drivers at Harbor Freight today too. In a tight application like this it's a lot easier than fumbling around with a socket or the old race. As you're hammering on them they make a different tone once the race bottoms out so you know for sure when it's seated properly.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1912_zpsbd5d0960.jpg)
I also bit the bullet and used a coupon for a 12-ton press. I know that I'll have to press all these bearings on for final assembly. In asking around at a couple shops it was quickly apparent that hiring out press work is not economical. I used this press three times today already which means it has now paid for itself. I wish I bought one of these years ago.
Axle bearing posing as first test subject. Works flawlessly.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1901_zpsfb4f5259.jpg)
Freshly pressed pinion gear bearing. Much cleaner than my typical BFH and ill-fitting length of pipe method.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1908_zps67392003.jpg)
So I now have the pinion gear test assembly installed. Pretty meager progress for a week's time.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1917_zps5da63797.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1918_zpsd4d145e2.jpg)
I'm really not sure how this will play out. If I get it back together and it actually works it'll be a miracle. If not, I may be trying to devise a way I can pull a hollow rear-end around with 4WD engaged and just a functional front axle� :D
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The press was a great investment. Many times I wished that I had one.....
You'll get it done....
"endeavor to persevere"
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I have been married over 36 years and there is NO way I would put an axle in a tub. My wife is very patient with my "junk" but whooeee that takes guts what you did.
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(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1919_zpsd99ec000.jpg)
The misery of Dana 44 rebuild continues. All work came to a halt last Sunday once I realized that I had received a defective part in my Walck's spider gear set. The annoying thing about finding this out on a Sunday morning is that all progress ceases and it means another week of downtime trying to sort out a solution.
A Monday phone call to Walck's confirmed that I did have a bad block (the small shaft that goes between the side gears and has the hole that the pinion shaft runs through). Walck's, as always, was good about it and got another one in the mail right away. Here's the original, the first Walck's one, and then the second Walck's one. You can see the problem with the middle one being considerably wider in diameter than the other two (which are down in the gear holes). It would not fit through the side gear hole and therefore could not be installed once the gears were in the carrier.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1961_zps55efbe97.jpg)
Fast forward to this weekend. Spider gear assembly installed followed by the ring gear. All looks good here but ended up getting torn apart again.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1969_zpse136f35b.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1963_zpsbc5e5dfa.jpg)
The FSM states a maximum of 0.006" clearance between the side gears and the carrier. I have 0.030" clearance. That's quite a difference. The FSM mentions adding shims here to remedy the problem but I can't find anyone who supplies the shims and barely any reference to them anywhere else online. The standard thrust washer on each side, yes. Additional shims, no.
Wobbly side gears and spider gears are the reason I tore this ridiculous thing apart in the first place so I better make sure it's right. That means another weekend of zero progress and another call to Walck's in the morning in hopes that they can help.
"Zero progress" may be a bit of a bitter overstatement. I have become quite proficient at installing and removing the yoke and pinion shaft (torqued to 210lbs each time) in order to add and remove pinion bearing preload shims. I did it about 6 times adding and removing various shims until I ended up with what I originally started with the first time. Go figure. I don't have an inch/lb beam torque wrench (for measuring pinion gear rotational torque) but I do have a fish scale (an acquisition from the kingpin bearing project days), a ruler, and a calculator. Amazing what you can learn on the internet ;D
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN1970_zps9515a26d.jpg)
So hopefully tomorrow I can find some relief to this side bearing gap dilemma. Anyone else here know anything about shimming side gears? It's an elusive topic out there on the web.
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I'm well aware this thread may be lugging down a bit. The complete slaughter of a Dana 44 by an idiot with a tool box is pretty dry material to follow. In the face of adversity one must persevere. I'm continuing to post these mundane ramblings for one reason:
If some future hobbyist is naive enough to tear a rear differential apart he may stumble upon this rubbish and find some value. Probably not, but I'm telling myself that anyways. I know if I had found this a month ago it would have drastically changed the course of events. I likely would have taken a quick peek behind the diff cover, bolted it back in place, and sold the Jeep.
So today, during discussions with the senior advisors at Walck's I was told that there is nobody producing and selling the side gear shims referenced in the Willys FSM. Great. They suggested I find some "shim stock" and make my own. Not exactly the answer I was looking for but since it's the only option at this point I better get to it.
It took me four stores but I found some shim stock. I ended up only using about 10" of the stuff once I actually got to work on it. Good thing I had to buy a minimum of 17'. If anyone needs some shim stock, look me up.
I don't have any metal stamping tools but I do have some scissors and a Dremel. Using the thrust washer as a pattern I traced out a few examples. I was going to etch "Bubba Was Heer" on the finished shims but I figured the end result spoke volumes so no need for further personalization.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2044_zps6ff7edf5.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2045_zps4f266bff.jpg)
After some fiddling (there's always fiddling, isn't there?), I ended up with the stock thrust washers and a 0.020" shim pack under one side gear and 0.025" under the other. I don't like that the distribution isn't exactly even but that's as close as I could get with this fancy SHIM STOCK I had.
The gap between the side gears and carrier housing is now just shy of .003", which is well below the allowable .006".
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2049_zps35fcb7d5.jpg)
I can't spin the spider gears by hand anymore which is a little unsettling but vague references in the original Dana manual allude to the fact that this may be OK. By the time I can determine this for certain the axle will be back on the vehicle. If it doesn't work at that point I may find a new hobby anyways. Or start drinking heavily again. Probably both.
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For your sake I hope you get good results...
I have learned plenty from this thread..
to wit..
"Do not try this at Home"
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You can alsothrow that one into the point of being committed topic I started Ryan. It actually is or will be helpful to another lunatic, kinda,sorta, maybe ;)
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Ryan,
You have the uncanny ability to humanize yourself :)
Thinking of you autographing the shims with "Bubba was heer" was funny enough, but when I saw the end result, I almost wet myself. ;D ;D ;D
Great stuff.� I'm really enjoying this thread...and not always at your expense. ;)
Tim
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Oh my ...!
To add on my do not forget list; Do not attempts to rebuild a Dana 44, buy a good one instead.
;D
I hope it will work fine and you will enjoy it.
[smiley=beer.gif]
[smiley=s12035.gif]
Here is a suggestion for new hobby:
[smiley=s2103.gif]
Start making your own canvas tops!
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Now to engineer some way to apply the black pinstripe. I've come up with a few ideas and I don't like any of them.[/quote]
While my Jeep is in my garage and way too cold to go out there I have thought about this pinstripe extensively. LOL Even though I am way too far away from that point.
Anyway, I plan on taking them to an auto shop I work at and putting them on the tire machine. I will then use some kind of jig to hold the pinstripe brush in the same location and rotate the wheel in the machine and bring the brush down like on a record player� should have the stripe in the same spot on all of the wheels. If I do it right... :D
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Don't be afraid to use a rag and wipe off the stripe to start over again. It might take a few tries on the first rim... And remember original stripes are not 100 percent perfect either. Usually you can see a hint of where the striper started or finished. They did a LOT of wheels every day so perfect was not an option.
I like the idea of the wheel balancer....I wonder if you could rig up a nice slow rotational feed with a drill and a wire brush or sanding disc against the tread...
What are you using for a brush and paint?
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So at long last the D44 is back together and, sort of, back in the Jeep.
I have not yet road tested my handi-work so this project still could end up as a photo of an overturned Jeep in a ditch surrounded by the smoldering shrapnel of blown out differential gears.
If that is the end result, it certainly isn't for lack of trying. Once I realized how tedious this project could be I figured I should try to go as "by-the-book" as possible during reassembly. Instead of just taking for granted that the old shims would be correct (they pretty much were) I set to it as if I was installing a new ring and pinion gear and building from scratch. If nothing else, I learned a lot. Specifically - don't ever try this again. On the bright side, if ever I'm convicted of a crime and can't plea bargain for the firing squad, maybe they can put me to work in the prison vehicle axle repair shop.
I made dedicated efforts to take all the right measurements in all the right places and execute adjustments accordingly. I'm still very concerned that I missed a step or miusunderstood the grainy shop manuals and cryptic, often conflicting, directions I pieced together from the web. Reading a gear pattern in Prussian Blue is much like trying to find animal shapes in billowy summer clouds - if you stare long enough you'll see exactly what you want (or don't want) to see. Is that a horse? No it's a dog...no wait, it's a horse-dog with a camel's head. It's maddening.
For as much measuring and frigging around as there was, the carrier bearing and pinion shims all ended up back at their original thicknesses. The side gears themselves were replaced and shimmed to drastically different thicknesses from how I found them but it was the excessive slopiness of those gears that started this whole project in the first place. If I've screwed something up, it's likely somewhere in that assembly...or the pinion depth....or the pinion bearing preload...or...well, we'll just have to see how it goes.
Here we are measuring and replacing carrier bearing shims. Most of the originals were damaged when I removed the old bearings (before I broke down and bought the shop press). Carrier shown here wearing set-up bearings.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2377_zps59f8a53e.jpg)
Part of the procedure for verifying carrier bearing shim thickness and bearing preload
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2379_zps6ef1d5f7.jpg)
After a couple test fits in the housing to ensure all measurements are correct, the setup bearings are removed and the new bearings pressed on
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2411_zps288bde57.jpg)
Everything assembled for hopefully the last time. I was careful to keep the bearing caps and bolts in the same locations they were when I removed them.�
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2407_zpscf187ac3.jpg)
Now checking the final backlash. All good!
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2381_zpsb7da976f.jpg)
I used Prussian Blue to see the gear pattern. It was really tough to see and I'm wondering if the yellow gear marking compund would be better. Since none of the local stores carry it and I'm not sure I can accurately read the pattern anyways, I stuck with the blue stuff. I did try a bunch of other "home brew" gear compounds with no better success - vaseline, spray paint, mixtures of the two, etc. Kind of winging it here but at least it's reasonably close. I think?
I used a pry bar on the carrier to create load while turning the pinion nut with a socket.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2385_zpsc5cc3ffb.jpg)
And I can show you a dozen pics where the gear pattern looks different in all of them but here's a couple
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2388_zps3ad1f5f5.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2404_zps39e0f290.jpg)
I don't care how bad anyone says it is, I'm not taking it apart again. I'll buy a new axle first
Buttoned up and coated with Chassis Saver quickly followed by some Rustoleum Primer then Gloss Black Rustoleum and then Clear Enamel.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2408_zps574d6339.jpg)
Axles in and new races ready to be tapped home. I smashed the axles properly into place with a hammer after BobW's advice� ;D
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2414_zps98b92587.jpg)
It's now back on the Jeep awaiting final outer bearing shim adjustment and brake installation. Onward we go....
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It sure looks the part....that gear pattern thing with the dye is a little like reading tea leaves....but I can't read either.....
Take your ignition key and tie it to a bottle of gear lube so you don't forget.....
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The pattern looks good. Sometimes you can also see the pattern where the pinion has carried the marking compound over to the ring gear in places where you did not apply compound.
the carrier bearing and pinion shims all ended up back at their original thicknesses
This is also a good sign that it's correct. If they didn't set it up properly at the factory it wouldn't last 63 years.
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Sometimes you can also see the pattern where the pinion has carried the marking compound over to the ring gear in places where you did not apply compound.
That's what made me try the orange spray paint. I had read that it might show up on the bare gears. In this instance, it did not.
What do you make of one of the carrier bolts being a different type than the other three? Is this a sign that Bubba may have been here before? Or would more than one type of bolt be approved for this application and as such bolts from multiple sources would have been used interchangeably during the original assembly process?
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Usually Bubba would have installed a bolt that was the wrong size if he lost the correct bolt. In manufacturing usually if it meets the specifications it's good to go. Parts from different suppliers is normal, who has the lowest bid today?
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... In manufacturing usually if it meets the specifications it's good to go. Parts from different suppliers is normal, who has the lowest bid today?
Yes, that practice is alive and well today, probably more so. Always makes you wonder if what you're buying is really the same as the one next to it on the shelf.
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In today's auto manufacturing every bolt should be traceable back to the manufacturer - not so much in 1951!
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"KA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA-THUNKA...."�
$%#&#*#**&#$$ !!!!!!
That was the sound of my freshly rebuilt rear differential installed on a my 3A up on jack stands as I spun the wheels by hand and swore profusely.
It was obvious the side gears in the differential carrier were binding. I could feel it happening through the vibrations in the wheels. Free spin the wheels and they'd clunk and quickly come to a stop instead of winding down slowly and smoothly like they're supposed to. Frustrating, as I had spent a lot of time hand crafting those Bubba shims and setting the side gear clearance to spec per the Willys FSM. I was not comfortable with the end result as it made those gears extremely difficult to turn but spec is spec and I went with it.
Against sound judgement I quickly bolted the radiator back on and ran the running Jeep up and down through the gears while still on jack stands hoping for a self-correcting problem. No luck. In fact, while running it up on jack stands I was craned around backwards watching the rear wheel so intently I never noticed the temp gauge creep up to well over the 200+ degree range. A sputtering motor triggered me to look forward just in time to see the engine stall and boiling coolant puke out of the radiator and all over the floor. With no hood installed I had a front row seat to Green Geyser Spectacular. Not good. I could not get the thing restarted and spent all the next day thinking I had blown the motor.
If you are ever feeling bad about a malfunctioning differential just convince yourself you blew your engine and the it'll make the differential problem seem like a minor maintenance item that may eventually require some casual attention.
Luckily, no need to write the final chapter of "How to Annihilate Your Motor by Rebuilding a Dana 44" just yet. Note to self - an elevated rear end will cause fuel starvation even if you can see a little fuel sloshing around in the bottom of the tank. In case there are a few who are still not convinced, I can confirm that a motor won't run if it's out of gas. Brilliant. I'm pretty sure the lack of fuel is what caused it to stall just before it puked coolant, likely saving it from further catastrophic damage.
Anyways, although I said I was throwing in the towel with this differential project if it didn't work I got an early start this morning and pulled it back out, stripped it down, and removed most - but not all - of my Bubba side gear shims. The side clearance is well in excess of the .005" called for in the FSM but it's back in the Jeep now and not clunking nearly as bad. In fact, it's barely noticeable. I'm sure if I removed the last of the shims it would disappear completely but that would leave a ton of slop in the side and spider gears - which is what prompted this ridiculous overhaul in the first place. It may come to removing those shims. Slop is better than binding...I think. I will fill the diff with fluid and give it a more thorough test later this week.
I pulled the wheels, brakes, axle housing, axles, removed and stripped the carrier, and put it all back together in about 5 hours. Not bad. Since there's a chance I'll be doing it again soon to get those last couple shims I'm hoping I can even whittle that time down some. Here's what the battlefield looks like on the home stretch 5 hours differential-ectomy
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2472_zpsfe3b8c18.jpg)
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That sucks Ryan!
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Wow! I feel for you. I would not have done the differential myself and I tackle most anything. Hope all is better now.
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Wow.� Well, I'm nearly speechless.� I guess we can call this a learning experience...??� I'm glad the engine is okay.
I may be missing something.� If you hooked the radiator back up, why did the engine overheat?
I wonder what's up with the axle.� Makes me a little nervous about my front axle rebuild.
Tim
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I may be missing something.� If you hooked the radiator back up, why did the engine overheat?
I'm not certain but I think it may have just been an insufficient amount of coolant. I've installed radiators a dozen or so times over the past couple years across my rag-tag fleet of project vehicles. Each time, I stand patiently watching the temp gauge and to make sure the coolant level is right and that the system does not get air bound.
Apparently multi-tasking that project along with watching the rear wheels spin round-and-round exceeded my own cranial horsepower. While watching the wheels I lost focus on the temp gauge. I think the thermostat opened and pulled the coolant from the radiator letting it run dry. I should have been right there watching and added more coolant before things got too hot.
Bottom line, it was a insanely stupid and completely avoidable mistake on my part.
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I may be missing something.� If you hooked the radiator back up, why did the engine overheat?
Bottom line, it was a insanely stupid and completely avoidable mistake on my part.
That same statement could be said for my entire rebuild! :)
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It's the snow Ryan! I was installing a new thermostat and listening to the radio weather forecast last Saturday. As they talked about the blizzard we in the northeast will be getting mid week I realized I had left out the gasket.
Music on Saturday's for now on...
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At least that red-painted front wheel looks good. I don't believe I've seen it since you painted the wheels.
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I do like the red wheels. I'll like them even better when they're rolling smoothly beneath a functional Jeep.
I had a very trusted source who knows more about mechanics than I will learn even if I live to 100 stop by and check out my rear differential tonight. After carefully inspecting the exposed side gears, spider gears, gently turning the wheels while listening and periodically prodding at things, his final assessment was....... "Run it!". And so I shall.
Besides, what's the worst that can happen? ::)
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Ryan, Jeep rears are cheap the worse case it you just need to buy another one.
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Still too cold, rainy, muddy and gross to take the 3A out to determine whether or not the rear end is going to grenade. So today I replaced the exhaust on the M38 and hit the streets for a 30 mile cruise. It was the first real road drive of the year which felt great.
When I got home, I took a crack at pinstriping the 3A wheels.
Using a drill bit as a measuring tool, I marked the wheel where the pinstripe needed to be.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2504_zps36622046.jpg)
With the wheel jacked up, I aligned my super hi-tech pinstriping unit. It's a paint marker taped to a magnetic dial indicator stand and stuck to a heavy vice.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2506_zps9007fc81.jpg)
A couple spins of the wheel and, voila, a reasonably decent pinstripe
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2507_zps12fae5d0.jpg)
Once the pinstripe was in place it was pretty easy to fill in any thin spots by hand. I found it more consistent to use the front passenger hub as the "work station" and rotated all the wheels through that one. I screwed up a couple pretty badly but easily wiped the stripe off with acetone. Once I got them looking good I hit the wheels with quick blast of clear coat. This is far from a professional end result but from 10' away it'll look perfect, which fits the theme of the rest of the vehicle.
Yes, I know, I still haven't cleaned the old red overspray off the tires. I just haven't been quite that bored yet.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2519_zpsad4fe2f0.jpg)
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I'm pretty sure that I'd of done it the same way.....they look darn good!
I doubt if the factory spent too much time on those stripes...they probably used the same method...
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I'm pretty sure that I'd of done it the same way.....they look darn good!�
I doubt if the factory spent too much time on those stripes...they probably used the same method...
The factory stripes look much better. Edges are crisper and the width of the line is much more uniform than mine. But now I'm being really picky. If I find a better way to do it with a brush and improved jig it's not that big of a deal to sand them down and start over. Unless I decide to improve this rig to trailer queen status, however, these stripes will do just fine. They'll look even better once I put the trim rings back on.
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So for the first time in, I don't know, at least 5 months we had a day that was actually bearable and borderline enjoyable to work outside.
I clocked another 40 miles on the M38 then came home and got to work on the new-to-my-3A-but-originally-from-a-2A hood.
For those of you that don't remember, my current and original-to-the-Jeep hood was poorly repaired last time around. Between two full time sociopaths moonlighting as body-men, 18lbs of bondo, and enough metal bracing to reinforce the Bay Bridge the thing does not fit right and drives me crazy.
I found this 2A hood on ebay over the winter. I had a friend make some minor weld repairs in a couple spots and fill in the offset hood block holes. I'll drill new ones so it'll look right on a 3A.
I've never painted a vehicle, let alone tried to color match an existing one. This could be a challenge.
Today's project was to clean it up a bit. I burned through two wire wheels which were the only two I had. I'll need a third one to finish which I'll get later this week. The weld repairs need some minor touch up in a couple spots and then it's off to the paint store with a mountain of stupid questions for whoever is unlucky enough to be working the counter that day. Actually, it'll only be one question - "How do I paint this hood?".�
I think I'll bring the tailgate with me too so I'll have an example of what I need it to end up like. I have the paint code and know the store it came from so I'm hoping we can get this figured out.
First time using a flapper wheel on the angle grinder. As promised, it made very quick work of the welding slag.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2521_zpsb7fb9199.jpg)
Does this green appear to be an original 2A color?
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2529_zps455c3514.jpg)
Much more time consuming than I expected
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2524_zps55285552.jpg)
Out of wire wheels. Time to call it a day.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2531_zps55eab690.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2530_zpsf3941e31.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/DSCN2526_zps9ed5ec10.jpg)
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Very clever work on the pin stripes.� Where do you find the paint markers? Oh, and when things went south, ie. the Acetone wipe...why? And how can a fellow Willys wheel striper avoid this action?
You may have figured this out, but one thing I find on the wire wheels is the wire starts to 'lay over' in the direction of spin of the grinder.� This makes it less effective.� You can turn the wire wheel over on the grinder.� This gives the wire wheel a new life.� At least until it lays over again.� Then, switch it back.� And so on.�
And good gracious, wear full body armor!� I can remember, many a time, pulling small wires from my clothing and skin, long after the day of cleaning is done.�
Tim
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Looks good. Not as messy as media blasting. But boy do the arms feel heavy and tired afterwards.
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Very clever work on the pin stripes.� Where do you find the paint markers?� Oh, and when things went south, ie. the Acetone wipe...why?� And how can a fellow Willys wheel striper avoid this action?
You may have figured this out, but one thing I find on the wire wheels is the wire starts to 'lay over' in the direction of spin of the grinder.� This makes it less effective.� You can turn the wire wheel over on the grinder.� This gives the wire wheel a new life.� At least until it lays over again.� Then, switch it back.� And so on.�
And good gracious, wear full body armor!� I can remember, many a time, pulling small wires from my clothing and skin, long after the day of cleaning is done.�
Tim
I screwed up two pinstripes either by accidentally bumping the marker or not having it set correctly up against the rim.
The rims are not 100% flat (surprise surprise) so as it went around the marker would leave a heavier line in some areas and a thinner line in others. Moving the marker closer or further away and spinning an overlapping stripe helped even things out. After that just touch up any weak spots by hand. It was really pretty easy. I used a "Forney Black Paint Marker #70819". It's the same marker I used on the "WILLYS" hood and tailgate logos last year which have all held up well and look like paint, not a Sharpie marker.
As previous mentioned, I moved each wheel to the front right passenger side and marked them there. I figured that would give me the most consistent results instead of having to compensate for any differences at any of the other three points. Not sure if this was entirely necessary but I did it anyways.
The pinstripes look even better today now that the paint is completely dry.
As for wire wheeling, yes body armor is most definitely required. Those wires come flying off like little harpoons.
I was wire wheeling dirty hubs last month with my angle grinder and got hit in the nose with what I thought was a piece of deflected grime. I worked for a couple hours, showered, ate, and then at some point many hours later I scratched my nose. I was shocked when I pulled a 1" length or grinder wire out of my right nostril!!! That's pretty thick wire. I'm fairly certain it flew off the grinder and through my nostril, ending firmly inside my nose, sideways! And that is why I always wear safety glasses!
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Etching primer, urethane primer, urethane sealer, and finally - paint....boy, I didn't realize how involved painting really is. I rigged up a makeshift paint booth and managed to spray the hood to a relative likeness of the rest of the Jeep. I will not be professional painter anytime soon but I'm satisfied with the result.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20140411_205942_zps751910e2.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20140411_205434_zps4d1b69b8.jpg)
The new hood feels and sounds like metal now instead of the low "thunk" of the bondo-cake that predeeded it. It's awesome.
I opted to hand paint the "WILLYS" logos this time around and mercifully managed not to screw them up too badly. I'm waiting on a new adhesive "4 Wheel Drive" stencil so I can complete the tailgate. I tried a test spray (on the old hood) with a non-adhesive stencil and all it did was make a mess. I don't know how you could possibly make it work.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20140420_111911_zpsf31c1961.jpg)
So here are a few glamour shots from this afternoon. I found some original rims for my T3-C that came with some very vintage tires. They're bigger than they should be but it rides level with the Jeep so I'll probably keep them on there. I still need to scrub some over spray off the tires but it was too nice out today for that project. I went for about a 40 mile ride instead for the first trip of the year. The rear axle did not explode, which is good.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20140420_102805_zps7fa85975.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20140420_102817_zps7d6be880.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20140420_102835_zpsa11390b2.jpg)
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I like the red wheels!
Looks like I'll need to find a green trailer........
Do those NDT's howl on pavement? My NDCC's do...at least i hope it's the tires....
I used double sided tape to hold the stencil down, and used a spray can and tried not to hit it with too much pressure...but it still came out a little fuzzy and needed some cleaning up.....a stick on paint mask would be the ticket....
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The NDT's do howl. Not horrible like big mud tires do on a jacked up Jeep but you definitely hear them. I'm undecided if the trailer will stay green or get a paint job to match the Jeep. It'll likely stay green at least through this summer.
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What tire pressure do you use? I started out with 22 or so but went up to 30 recently. It reduced the noise a little and stiffened the ride...not like it was smooth to begin with...
Now if you painted those trailer wheels red it would pull it all together.... or it might look awful......
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I think red wheels on the trailer would work, too...you might even not want to change the green color.
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What tire pressure do you use?� I started out with 22 or so but went up to 30 recently.
I just had to go check. They're at about 23 +/- right now. I don't remember precisely but it was undoubtedly a forum search that landed me at the current PSI. I may have to air 'em up a little more.
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I might try 35 just to see if my teeth are firmly rooted.....
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The peel-and-stick stencil arrived today and the results are much better than the first attempt. Lines are almost too clean! Someone needs to invent a semi-fuzzy stencil.
How did they do it at the factory? I envision some sort of large metal plate with the stencil cut out. Probably one blast with the sprayer and onto the next station?
Either way, I've about had enough of working on this thing and ready to just drive for the next few months.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20140423_195551_zps83116c11.jpg)
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I'm not sure how it was done at the factory but the edges were kinda fuzzy.
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I think it looks good....less frustration than using the stencil...
I'm glad to hear that the factory versions were a little fuzzy....I can do fuzzy!
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Ryan,
That things looks terrific. Love that grey and red combo.
I ordered the '4 Wheel Drive' stencil from Walcks. I wonder if it's the peel and stick type. Where did you get yours?
Tim
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I'm pretty sure my "non-stick" stencil came from Walcks. The stick-on one came from an ebay seller. I can get you the specifics if you want it.
I have since been doing some reading that there is some special adhesive available made just for stencils. Apparently it will hold the stencil in place but not leave any sticky residue once the stencil is lifted. I had thought about regular spray adhesive but figured I'd screw up the paint while removing the leftover residue.
I would suggest some serious testing before you actually try it for real on the tailgate.
Regardless, if I did mine over again I wouldn't spray the paint on as heavy. If you do a google search on original logos you will see how fuzzy they were. Walck's has a pretty good video on youtube about the subject as well.
Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enA6cbS3ygI
Part2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2UU4Za2NfM
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I wish I'd have know that there was a special stencil adhesive....I also thought about using spray adhesive like 3m but like Ryan I figured it would make an even bigger mess...I spent a lot of time with q-tips and denatured alcohol cleaning the bleed through off...
I used the PDF file in the Tech tips section and emailed it to a sign shop. They probably could have made a vinyl stencil instead...cost about the same as the ebay item though, so it is really a wash....
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The logo looks great! I am also really liking the grey/red combo. I think it gives the jeep a very functional look..just like it is supposed to!
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The logo looks great!� I am also really liking the grey/red combo.� I think it gives the jeep a very functional look..just like it is supposed to!
I'm still torn between "This looks authentic and therefore awesome" and "I feel like I'm driving a clown car at the circus".
We'll see which thoughts prevail by the end of the summer.
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There is nothing wrong with having the most authentic and awesome clown car at the circus :D
I considered not doing the "Willys" highlights, thought it was a little too much....but I did it.....in 10 years when it weathers a little it will look nice! A little Scotch-Brite could accelerate that weathering....
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I think it looks great. Drive a Geo Metro like I do and people will think Clown Car. ;D
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The logo looks great!� I am also really liking the grey/red combo.� I think it gives the jeep a very functional look..just like it is supposed to!
I feel like I'm driving a clown car at the circus".
I know what you mean!� I'm 6'4" and wedging myself in and out the jeep can be comical some days!� I have to hunch over most of the time to see out the windshield when I'm going downhill.� I catch a lot of grief about it from my friends.........but they always seem to want to take the jeep when we go somewhere..... :-?
Get that jeep back on the road!
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Get that jeep back on the road!
Haha it is on the road today. I snuck home at lunch and swapped my truck for it. It's beautiful out and I will be taking the long way home tonight. Not quite as cool as a Geo Metro but fun nonetheless ;D
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Just a guess, but I think Ryan likes it!!
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When you need to shorten a driveshaft by 7 inches why just cut 7 inches off? Why not cut 10 inches off and the figure out how to add 3 back on? Because you're an idiot that's why.
Lots going on with the gray 3A as of late. I finally wrestled the OD out and shipped it back to Herm. It's been grinding with almost every shift since Day 1 and no amount of shims or cursing has made it any better. Dr. Herm gave it a complete overhaul and said that this was the problem.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160206_142015_zpssg7cv1ud.jpg)
I don't know what it is and Herm doesn't know why it was binding but it's now on my workbench and the OD is back in the 3A with a new one of these things. Road salt limited my ability to test drive but flying laps in 1st and 2nd gear around the yard failed to induce a grind during any shift. I am cautiously yet optimistically pleased.
Since I was on the phone with Herm last week anyways it seemed only reasonable to order one of those PTO/OD adapters from him. I had tried to snipe a couple on eBay recently and was completely blown out of the water both times. Herm chalked up another sale.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160204_193351_zpsop8adyny.jpg)
I bought that PTO set-up from a forum member a few months ago and went through everything. Complete disassembly, new bearings, seals, and paint. I'll spare you all the pics but they came out nice. Actually, I'd bombard you with pics I just can't find them. Here's what I have:
Before:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160116_122326_zpswsvivuyh.jpg)
During:
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160118_090708_zpsfuorybnu.jpg)
After:
I told you I was missing pics. This is one of them.
In preparation for rear gearbox installation I added the support brace to the rear crossmember. Go check your 3A and see if it already has one of these tucked up in there. Neither of my 3A's had one. Walck's chalked up another sale.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160126_183639_zpsbyynchuj.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160127_195317_zpsf5uzjon8.jpg)
Next up I decided to take my shoes off and cut a giant square hole in the tub. I always do my best Sawzalling while barefoot. Luckily, I was able to use this hole for the PTO shift lever which coincidentally needed a new hole here anyways.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160206_165014%201_zpseredrxdk.jpeg)
Back under the Jeep to bolt everything up. Oscar stopped by to visit. He likes to hang out just beneath the skid plate in order to baste in the * of oils that flow from it. He was soon bored and moved upstairs to nap on my side of the bed.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160206_174553_zpsygd1hnw0.jpg)
So now I have the PTO and OD roughly installed. I still need to button everything up once I'm sure I won't have to take it apart for the 5th time.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160206_182824_zpsaui0hbm4.jpg)
While sitting in the driver's seat staring at this mess I actually had to Google "CJ2A - How to use a PTO" (Yes, I know I'm in a 3A but 2A Google searches always result in way more hits....). Since I had my phone out I updated all 12 of my Facbook pages and then engaged the PTO for the first time. Nothing exploded. Good. And it appears to work. Even better.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160206_184323_zpssknuhgoa.jpg)
So back to this driveshaft fiasco. I have an original PTO shaft that obviously won't fit now with the OD installed. I had contemplated building a completely new driveshaft in order to not molest the original one but a quick tally of cost and effort in doing so sent Historical Preservation out the window. I spooled up the angle grinder.
I cut the shaft and cleaned up the end, shortened and fit everything to my measurements and even drilled a few extra holes in the tube so I could really weld it back together.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160207_100143_zpse5tnuai9.jpg)
Looks great, doesn't it? Well it's over 2" too short. I'm still trying to figure out how I screwed this up so badly. I must have measured a dozen different times using a variety of approaches so I could cross-check my findings for accuracy. I would have been closer just eyeballing it.
Since the first test fit proved an utter failure I spent the next three hours adding that 2"+ back in. Luckily there are no tall bridges on the way to Tractor Supply and I was able to go there and come home with a bag full of pieces to make this happen. I managed not to hurt myself or anyone else during the trip. It was a struggle.
(Continued)
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(...continued)
So as gruesome as this now is, I believe it's solid. There's a short length of pipe inside the tube bridging the seam and about three spools of welding wire holding it together. Nothing like putting in twice the time and effort for a result half as good.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160207_132852_zpsauluilxt.jpg) (http://s1188.photobucket.com/user/rmurdock2121/media/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160207_132852_zpsauluilxt.jpg.html)
Inhaling Rustoleum fumes makes everything better.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160207_143802_zpslyxs13ek.jpg)
I'm guessing this shaft now has some serious balance issues. If I were prepping a Ferrari for a Watkins Glen Track Day event I'd be nervous. I'm not doing that here though. My primary audience will likely be a group of laid-off union mill workers at a greasy diner cruise night some Wednesday this summer. They will be too distracted arguing over whether the liberals or the Chinese are more to blame for their $38-an-hour minimally skilled positions evaporating to notice a wobbly PTO shaft. Actually, they probably will notice. I'll just tell them the shaft is a Chinese repop. That will simultaneously please and infuriate them.
So enough for one night. The gray 3A is happy as it is getting some much needed attention.
Stay tuned for the next episode of "Measure Twice, Cut Once,....and Then Measure and Cut 40 more times and Spend a Bunch of Money and then Measure and Weld and Cut Some More".
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Looks like you're having just as I was today! So what is the plan for the PTO? Just going to have a drum on the back? Also, I think you posted in the wrong thread. ;) I can move your posts to the gray jeep thread.
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No plans for the PTO other than just watching in go round and round...
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If it's going to go round and round you should put it to use
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pu5ej_cO0D8
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I need to seek out a better solution for the PTO shaft but for now, it works:
[media]https://youtu.be/XBGJixnOatw[/media]
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That is nice I like it.....I have one for mine but without the overdrive adapter it remains in storage...
I saw a video of a fellow who modified an ice cream maker to work from his PTO..maybe you've seen it? Can't find it right now....
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That is nice I like it.....I have one for mine but without the overdrive adapter it remains in storage...
I saw a video of a fellow who modified an ice cream maker to work from his PTO..maybe you've seen it? Can't find it right now....
Yes, I have seen the ice cream maker. Pretty neat apparatus...and apparently quite popular. Part of this process has been realizing that when people learn you are installing a PTO they send you that video ;D
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I'd maybe just put the prop from an outboard motor on it....give those tailgaters something to think about..!
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I wouldn't worry about the the wobble. It isn't too bad.
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Feeling good about my first ever successful carb rebuild on the red 3A, I tore open the gray 3A's carb and cleaned and adjusted that one while I was at it. I've owned this accelerator pump gauge for over a year and it wasn't until a few hours ago Scout actually taught me which end was up and how to use the thing. Neat gadget but a machinist rule will do the job just as well.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/1949%20Willys%20CJ3A%2031149/20160214_125906_zpsmu61sj9b.jpg)
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Is that your thumb??� I'm 61 and my thumb doesn't look that rough...
Years ago I was cleaning a distributor in carb cleaner...hey this stuff isn't so bad..no gloves, a wire brush and the distributor body came out great...
trouble was the next day my hands looked like they belonged on something that had been dead for a couple weeks...
I recovered but now try to use gloves....
Try these...
http://www.amazon.com/SAS-Safety-66518-Powder-Free-Disposable/dp/B002XXO60M
It is a neat gadget...one of those things that you need once or twice....
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Is that your thumb?? I'm 61 and my thumb doesn't look that rough...
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Isn't it about time for you to drag home another Jeep to work on?
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And quit bugging you?
Yah maybe you betcha eh? :o
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And quit bugging you?
Yah maybe you betcha eh? :o
It's all good.� ;D� I do wear gloves on occasion. They usually end up a tattered mess by the time I'm done whatever it is I'm working on and my hands just as contaminated. It's -14 degrees here right now too. Arctic temps and dry air aren't exactly nature's hand moisturizer either. ;D
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I had planned to pull the starter out this winter for a "preventative maintenace" rebuild but it began acting up last week so I went ahead and yanked it out of there.
Off to Reggie, my go-to old-school starter whiz, for an overhaul. He completely disassembled it, re soldered everything, replaced what needed to be replaced, and dressed the banged up gear teeth.
For those who don't already, make sure you have an adequate spring installed to pull the starter lever back and everything out of the way of the ring gear. I wish I had taken a "before" pic - the teeth were pretty chewed up. I have had a return spring installed since I overhauled the Jeep a few years back but there was nothing on there when I originally brought it home.
It all looks good now and it is repainted and back in the Jeep. It also sounds noticeably stronger now when starting. Reggie magic.
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160220_162418_zpswnkeaouw.jpg)
(http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z403/rmurdock2121/51%20Willys%20Jeep%20CJ3A%20Rehab/20160220_162415_zpsrktyc8wj.jpg)
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Well here's a less-than-ideal start to the summer motoring season. It's Memorial Day and the PTO, transmission, and transfer case are laying on the garage floor. The box of shrapnel that up until last week was my overdrive is 3300 miles away undergoing an autopsy. I will withhold further comments on that until the full cause of death is understood.
Meanwhile, transfer case appears undamaged but is loaded with bits of the OD. It will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned. Fresh overhaul kit is sitting on the work bench. Might as well freshen up the transmission too while it's sitting right there.
At least it's raining here so I don't feel quite as bad about confining myself to the garage for the day.
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Oh boy....
Any warning indications that the OD was going bad, or did it just go Kablamo?
That far away can only mean Herm.....unless you sent it to Iceland.....
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Well that's a freakin bummer. And just when you all had me convinced that I need an OD. :-/
Tim
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Ouch Ryan!! I love my OD but I hear too many of these stories..every time I use it I fear its gonna grenade, ya know like "ka-blooie".
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Here's the aftermath.
Warning: Graphic images may not be suitable for all audiences. Viewer discretion is advised.
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Wow...I've got two of those...one in the CJ-5 and one in the CJ-3a...guess my chances of failure are doubled.....but I only drive them one at a time.....
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Any idea of what happened? I ordered a rebuilt unit from Herm a while back. Still waiting on him to get some more parts in and get one done.