My Willys 3A and 3B Community
Your Projects => Your CJ-3A Project => Topic started by: NoCoWillys on June 16, 2013, 02:47:55 PM
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I cleaned and primed yesterday, shooting color today!� 8-)
(http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8953/67v4.jpg)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/4920/v2pl.jpg)
(http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/7606/zj2g.jpg)
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It looks good!�
Did you use an epoxy primer?
How are you able to move the tub around?
I was thinking about this earlier today and I thought that maybe it would be easier to do the interior if the tub were on it's side....and there you are , doing it!
I'm guessing that the interior primer�does not require sanding..that just seems like it would be an enormous pain..
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(http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/1355/6inr.jpg)
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And with clear on! Thanks! Once I started spraying I didn't move it any. I just ran around it. I only did the top and bottom. I'm going to come back through and mask off and do the sides after everything has cured and then blend in the clear coat with the body up on stands.
I had primered the bottom with 3 coats of epoxy primer (eastwood) a few weeks ago so I scuffed it up with a red scotchbrite pad. Everything I read that was all I had to do to prep it since it had been so long since I had sprayed it. I then wiped everything down with Pre grease and wax remover and hosed it all down with air. Since I hadn't done the top, I did 3 coats of epoxy on there, then came back and put a fourth coat on the bottom to make a good bond with the my next step. The epoxy sticks nicely. After the 3 coats on the top and the 4th on the bottom I waited 30-45 minutes and started spraying 2k urethane primer. I did 3 coats top and bottom with that. This was again eastwoods. I found this to be the most difficult. It sprayed slow and didn't run, but was a pain. I eventually switched back to my cheap harbor freight gun that spews paint like the end of the world is coming. With the increase flow I was able to get good coats down. I finished up around 6pm Saturday night with the last coat of 2k primer. I was beat so couldn't keep going. According to eastwood, I have an 18 hour window to spray on top of it before I have to sand. I got up early this morning well within the window, but looking it over and feeling it, it felt very dry to me. So I brought out a fresh scotchbrite and rubbed everything down after sanding flat a few runs. Next came the base coat. I ended up going with TCPGlobal's mix for Normandy Blue. I think it looks great. I don't know if it's exact or not. I can't even be sure of what color my 3a was originally. I'm happy with the color. I had it at my door in about 5 days. After 3 wet coats of color I switched to clear and put down 3 wet coats of it. It started getting a little windy later this afternoon and I got some dust and cotton fluff in the clear coat but I don't think it's too bad. A little polishing and mud from the trails and noone will know!
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As far as moving the tub around, I usually get a few friends over. Yesterday when I pulled it off the saw horses, I used an engine hoist on one end and lowered it slowly. The biggest pain I ran into and I think having it on the side like this made it easier was paining behind the dash. Getting the underside of the top cowl isn't too bad, but getting the dash ends up being "good enough." Unless you got a really tiny gun, maybe a air brush gun? You just don't have the room to easily get in there.
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Well, it looks great! That clear sure makes it shine...
I too have used the 2k epoxy primer from eastwood, but I'll have to look into the urethane..
Why not spray the color directly over the epoxy?
This is all completely new to me.....
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Someone with more painting experience may chime in, but that's what eastwood recommended. The urethane primer certainly fills more and covered up some of the stuff I left behind on the body work. For our purposes, I think base over the epoxy (assuming it's still in the window to topcoat) is just fine. I also used the extra coats of primer as practice before getting to the expensive base. I would have had the option to block sand out anything I didn't like after the coats too.
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Thanks....I think you are right. If the finished product will be scratched by bushes, driven on dirt/gravel roads, rained on etc etc...then a perfect show quality paint job would just make you cry.....
Keep posting pictures!
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Well, it looks great! That clear sure makes it shine...
I too have used the 2k epoxy primer from eastwood, but I'll have to look into the urethane..
Why not spray the color directly over the epoxy?
This is all completely new to me.....
While you certainly can spray base/clear over epoxy, I would HIGHLY recommend against.� Most all epoxy primers are very thin and will actually highlight any scratches (especially sanding/grinding scratches), dents, dings or any imperfections.� A good urathane filler primer can fill in most all scratches......even ones left from sanding bondo with 80 grit paper.
It is another step, but if you have put the work in to take it this far, what is another week of prep?
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I'm limited to whatever I can get in a spray can...U-POL #5 looks like a good product...it's expensive enough...
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It's pretty expensive but Eastwood sells a bunch of their 2k products in a can. You puncture an internal container, the two components mix in the right proportions and sprays somewhat like normal spray paint. I picked up two cans of their epoxy primer to get into hard areas like inside the tool box and behind the dash. It went a lot farther on one can than I though. So much that I still have one can. At $19 a can, that's a good thing. One option though. You can at least get a good base under everything. Looks like there are companies that sell 2k paints that can be mixed and put in cans:
http://www.66autocolor.com/SprayMax_2K_Aerosol_Auto_Paint_by_U_S_Chemical_p/spm-mix2k.htm
An option. I found using the eastwood evolution spray gun:
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-evolution-paint-gun.html
I as a first time painter got a fairly decent paint job. I won't win any awards but I didn't get any runs and am happy with the result. Can't really beat it for $70.
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I got some more done tonight.� I've been fighting over how to fix the bubba grill on my 3a since I took everything off it to get it blasted.� Here was what I found when I dug into the parking lights.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img17/5502/ghlp.jpg)
Looks like some previous owner decided to upgrade to turn signals and bought some parking light assembly off a store shelf and cut everything to fit.� Worked great until it started rusting out.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img7/1079/66wf.jpg)
I can't get into it to replace the wiring and repair the rusted out bulb socket either.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img62/7879/axzg.jpg)
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So after deciding not to shell out the cash and replace the whole grill I decided on two of these parking light assemblies for an early cj5. I picked them up from Walcks.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img109/9243/w4x.jpg)
Of course they were smaller than the monstrosities I removed. Two hole saws and some filing later:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img547/309/lti3.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img14/224/xg06.jpg)
I'll weld them in and grind it down level tomorrow after work. I'll fill the other mess of screw holes as well.
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Neat patch...and thanks for the info on the primers etc...
I've already used the eastwood 2k and will use more..I hope it holds up. Everyone tells me to put the epoxy under the filler, but then i guess you are relying on the epoxy for adhesion...
Those light assy's that you took out look like my '55 cj-5 lights..I'll have to measure them...
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Very nice work so far!
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No pictures yet but I got everything welded up and some filler spread to even everything out. I've spent the weekend filling holes and straightening metal on the fenders. Few welds ground down and some filler and I'll be ready to spray them too.
Quick question for everyone. I'm looking at my hood and it's fairly decent. It suffers from some major oil can syndrome though. How much is normal? I don't know if it is my hood or every one is like that. I'm going to tighten it up a bit with a torch and some wet rags. The previous owner had bolted on some square tube steel that ran down the length of the hood from the windshield blocks back. I've removed it and just a few holes needed to be welded up. I am however considering going non-stock and running some strips of steel on the underside of the hood like these tubes were on top of the hood. I'm thinking 1" by 3/8" (or whatever I can find that will work well at the hardware store). Any thoughts on this as a stiffener? I've considering tying them together at the front and back just to give the hood a little more support. Any thoughts on that?
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If you can get a framework built underneath that won't interfere with the air filter, carb, radiator, or other stuff underneath the hood it may be the fastest and most permanent solution. ...
Heat shrinking hood oil canning is a tough job to get right. I am sure it can be done but it takes talent. Worst thing is just one idiot heaving his tail up on your hood and you have to do it all over again.
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It's been a while since I've updated this.� Slowly getting there still!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/842/8iui.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ne8iuij)
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Almost ready to start it up!� A few more tweaks and checks and I'll be ready for a test drive!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/35/w8ju.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/0zw8juj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/571/7ufm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/fv7ufmj)
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Looks great. It gets really fun when they start going back together. Keep us posted.
Tim
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Nice work.
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Thanks everyone. It seems I've struck it lucky and got a bad brake light switch. From my quick research on here and elsewhere on the web it seems to be a common problem. My new turn signal switch (truck-lite 900) works great and my turn signals work properly on all four corners. Just not brake lights when I push the pedal. I'll pick one up at autozone tomorrow and see how it does.
A side note, the truck-lite 900 turn signal switch is pretty nice. I tried to put the one I ordered from Walcks on but snapped the case while trying to tighten down the worm clamp. I'd suggest everyone avoid that one. Cheap plastic. The truck-lite is metal and feels much better made.
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I do agree with you, I ordered one from Walcks and it broke while I was trying to install it. Very cheap plastic stuff.
I bought an old sparton model one, all in metal....! Work great!
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Got a lot of progress done over the past week. Here's some shots:
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/28/8r7p.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/0s8r7pj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/856/68fr.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ns68frj)
I got glass put in at a local commercial/residential and auto glass shop. I took the frame and gasket in and picked it up a few hours later. Looks great!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/833/t14s.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/n5t14sj)
I've gotten as far as trying to start it. However I just can't seem to get fuel to flow to the pump. I ended up finding a clogged line between the pump and tank that I blew out with air. I might just not have enough gas in the tank now. Any tips for priming the system? I've gotten it to chug a few times using starter fluid but that's it.
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NoCo,
Think about the basics when starting your Willys.� You need fuel, compression, and spark.
The fuel systems is really self priming.� Have you seen fuel delivered to your fuel filter bowl?� If so, the fuel pump is working.� If you look down the carb throte while pulling on the accelerator linkage, and you see some fuel squirts, the carb bowl also has fuel and the carb fuel jet at the bottom of the fuel bowl is not clogged.� If you see these things, your non start is probably not fuel related.�
Compression:� Even with a bad engine and poor compression, you will still, normally, be able to start the engine.� It just may be under powered, or burn oil, or similar.
Spark:� Critical to make sure your timing is close, if not dead on.� Spark plug cables are routed to the correct firing order. (I always do this wrong for some reason. :-[� Counter clock wise on the distributor.) Spark plug gaps to .030.� Points clean and gapped to .020.� A good coil. A good condencer.�
I'm sure there are some additional things to consider when starting it up.� Hopefully others will chime in.
Good luck.
Tim
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Fresh spark plugs are always a good idea when troubleshooting a no start condition. Often they get fouled and won't spark, due to fuel deposits , etc. There is a way to clean them that involves heating with a torch till the insulator is red hot and letting them cool slowly but at the price of a set of plugs many won't want to bother.
Also on the fuel issue, FRESH fuel is a must nowadays with that darn corngas they sell.
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Thanks everyone. I've got new plugs and wires. I didn't redo the cap and rotor since it was running before I cleaned it up. I'm a bit concerned the carb might be a little gummed up but I haven't even gotten gas to the pump (through the filter I have before the pump either.) I know the line is clear now so I think the next step is to get a couple more gallons of fresh gas in the tank then try again. The whole project hasn't been easy the ol' girl won't give up that easy.
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Well after draining out the tank and removing it, it seems I didn't get the fuel tank completely clean. I didn't realize at least my tank has some sort of pickup. It's not just a bung on the bottom. I take it that is expected? I can get air to go through if I have a line hooked up to it and dump my compressor into it, but barely. It takes a lot of pressure. Once I release the pressure it plugs back up. I can't get gas to flow out of the tank for anything. The rest of the tank seems OK but I just cant get this tube to clear out. Any ideas? I'm almost to just trashing the tank but would rather not... :-/
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I think it was Bruce W who discovered that some tanks have a pickup tube that loops up and back down to the floor of the tank..It sounds like yours may be plugged. Time to look inside the tank, best done thru the fuel sender hole.. Bruce had a pinhole in his line that made him run out of fuel when the fuel level reached it.
You might have success with a miniature roto rooter technique, using a tiny flexible cable like an old speedo cable, driven by a drill and pushed thru the tube from the bottom of the tank...
If all else fails you can break off the tube, or install another tube with a filter sock either there or at the drain hole and reroute the fuel line. It can be done without soldering on the tank, but if you choose to repair it in the original location you probably ought to have the pros boil it out and do the work.
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...using a tiny flexible cable like an old speedo cable, driven by a drill and pushed thru the tube from� the bottom of the tank...
That's a bonafide VCI!! (Very Clever Idea)� I like it!
The four tanks I have messed with, all have the U-shaped pick up tube.� It's actually a good design.� The tube doesn't quite touch the bottom of the tank, thus keeping debree out of the fuel line, and in the bottom of the tank, if the tank runs dry.� If the fuel was delivered directly through the bottom of the tank, and the tank ran dry, all the debree would be sucked into the fuel line, offering a greater chance of a clogged system.
This is why I shutter everytime someone decides to hook the fuel line to the drain hole on the bottom of the tank.
Tim
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As far as I know all original tanks have the U shaped pickup tube. Perhaps the aftermarket stuff doesn't. Here is a poor photo of the tube inside the tank where it picks up fuel...
(http://www.cj3a.info/temp/pickup.jpg)
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Interesting. I think I'll try running something through the tube again but I think it's clogged at the bend and won't let anything through. I even tried some thin welding wire from my mig setup and it wouldn't make the turn. I did place an order for a new tank so probably all a moot point now. Thanks!
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As far as I know all original tanks have the U shaped pickup tube. Perhaps the aftermarket stuff doesn't. Here is a poor photo of the tube inside the tank where it picks up fuel...
My aftermarket tank from Walcks has the U shaped pickeup tube.
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A local fellow who had a jeep for sale said he unclogged the pickup tube with some aircraft safety wire, doubled over and forced through the hole...safety wire is pretty small gauge, but very flexible and strong......
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That's worth a shot. I have a whole roll of safety wire... In other news, I disconnected the fuel line and put it in a cup of gas and cranked it over. Fuel pump is working as it should! After fiddling with it some I realized I had the spark plug wires backwards. I'm sure I'm not the first to do this... Once the right way fired right up! First time it's run in 2 years since I brought it home. Good oil pressure and sounded smooth. Getting close now! ;D
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I got a better photo of the fuel pickup.
(http://www.cj3a.info/reference/fuelpickup.jpg)
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Oh now that's interesting. Looks like it's designed to allow all the crud to collect around the drain plug so you could drain it out from there. I like it. I ended up getting a new tank and tossed that in a few days ago. I've been able to get it out and driving! I'll get some pics here in a day or so. Really feels good to get it out moving. I loaded it up on a car hauler today and took it to the state patrol to get inspected. The PO botched getting the title transferred over into his own name and sat on it for years before I got it. It looks like I shouldn't have too much trouble getting it titled though. Once I'm through the whole process I'll do a quick write up on my experience here in Colorado dealing with that. Thanks for all the help getting to this point!