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Topic Summary

Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: June 20, 2020, 10:15:43 PM »

Thanks for the link, Rus.  Boy that 100MPH speedo was "optimistic", wasn't it?
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: June 20, 2020, 07:57:32 PM »

My '54 has individual gauges.  An ohm meter that speaks to you - now that's nice.

This is the article I'm familiar with:
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: June 20, 2020, 04:15:52 PM »

Rus, doesn't your 3B have a cluster speedo too?  Yes my old reliable pocket ohm meter from RadioShack who knows how long ago, has a buzzer "continuity checker" that is priceless for determining a good ground potential.  I sometimes get ahead of myself in a hurry and don't always check it first.  Duh.  Wastes a lot more time going back later.  There used to be a whole thread on Derrek's site about cluster speedo model differences by Charles Tate.  Very complete as I recall.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: June 20, 2020, 03:05:49 PM »

Sounds like you have a few issues too - specific to the cluster gauge.  I just don't have any hands-on with the cluster but others will. (you may want to start a whole new thread for feedback/pictures etc.)

As far as grounding, yes, you may need to add an extra ground like your fuel sending unit.  I ended up doing that on my turn signal unit because my steering column had such a good paint job (I wasn't going to remove the paint) I had no ground.  Nothing an extra wire to a good ground won't fix.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: June 20, 2020, 02:19:42 PM »

Thanks Rus, for the images.  The cluster only has an "amp light" and it appears to be friction installation grounded bulb mount to the metal cluster with only one gray wire to it.  I've converted to an One Wire Alternator and am having trouble figuring out how to wire in the "warning light", with the higher Amp output of the Alternator involved.  I've added a "Voltage gauge" to help see potential "battery power issues", but would like the "warning light" for "output problems".  Another question comes to mind, do the gauges need to be "grounded bezels" to the dash, as I have a thick protective layer on the metal, actually bed liner paint, to prevent rust from humidity, and salt exposure here on the coast, or is the wiring floating ground enough for proper readings?  I already had to add a separate ground wire to the fuel tank sender for it to work properly.  Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge, and experience.  It all helps.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: June 20, 2020, 12:49:53 PM »

I made the assumption the OP was referencing individual gauges when he mentioned the retainer bracket.  There the electrical path goes through the posts that pass through the bracket (which is grounded) and needs to be insulated so the current isn't shorted.  I've attached an image of my gauges that show the Ammeter (L) with the correct insulation on the bracket and the Fuel gauge (R) that has an incorrect non-insulated bracket that needed replacing.

Your cluster is attached with the 4 tabs around the outside of the casing.  Your insulators look like wafers under the posts where the wires connect so it doesn't appear to me from the image you'd have a problem.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: June 20, 2020, 10:27:20 AM »

Could someone help me understand where that insulator is required?  Is it on the back of the Speedo somewhere?  Or are you talking of an accessory Amp Gauge installation?  Thanks! 
Posted by: BillT
« on: June 20, 2020, 09:09:11 AM »

Sorry for the late reply guys, had a long hard day yesterday.

Thanks to both of you for the ideas. I certainly would never have thought of a Bic pen as a repair part. Ingenious. And thanks for the link to the 'store-bought' insulators, those look great. I need to get me one of those big ole catalogs.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: June 19, 2020, 11:21:00 AM »

Any insulator will work.  A non-conductive washer will need to stand up to some vibration.  It would help if the washer had a "shoulder" to insulate the post as it passes through the bracket.

Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 19, 2020, 08:22:20 AM »

I used an old style Bic Pen.  I cut a couple insulator sized pieces from the outer shell of the pen. 8 years later, I'm still trouble-free.
Posted by: BillT
« on: June 19, 2020, 07:12:31 AM »

After installing a new wiring harness, from Walcks which went very well, I developed a 2.4 amp short circuit. Traced the problem to the amp gauge and was able to stop the drain by loosening the terminal nuts and wiggling the retainer bracket a bit and then tighten the nuts. Short went away but I know this is only temporary. Do any of you folks have a fix for replacing the insulators on the retainer bracket, or, are the parts available from vendors?