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Topic Summary

Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 15, 2020, 09:30:30 AM »

Well I finally got the bolt and nut on. I used a 1/4" drive extensions on a shallow 9/16" socket. That made it easier for the wife to turn the bolt. Then i used "aboyandhisdog" technique for getting the nut on.  I never had it this tough.

Anyways, thanks for the tech support guys. I really appreciate it.
Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 13, 2020, 10:28:27 PM »

Maybe they become studs like they should be.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 13, 2020, 09:50:08 PM »

Quote from: Jimmy Fehr on June 13, 2020, 09:05:44 PM
The welded links a good idea. Then, I of I am thinking of this right, you can just put nuts on from the bell housing side.
I haven't tried this yet, but I think we would have the same problem we have now with the individual bolts.  The linked bolts would be too long to fit if assembled pointing rearward.
Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 13, 2020, 09:05:44 PM »

The welded links a good idea. Then, I of I am thinking of this right, you can just put nuts on from the bell housing side.
Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 13, 2020, 09:02:29 PM »

Maybe it is a repo tub. I am not sure. I am going to attack it with 1/4 drive stuff. Once I get it starter I am ok.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: June 13, 2020, 03:31:47 PM »

I haven't had an engine out in a couple years, but the next time I do, I plan to weld a link between both top bolts.

This would allow you to install the linked bolts and a nut from the passenger side. Now, you only have to worry about the nut on the driver side.  No need to figure out how to hold the driver side bolt.  The welded link is taking care of that for you.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 13, 2020, 03:14:34 PM »

Man, it sounds like you are having the same issue as here:   https://cj3apage.com/Forum/index.php?topic=4729.0

I wonder if you also have a repro tub?  So, you can't get your hand in there if you stand like I mentioned - facing the rear of the jeep, using your left hand with your palm facing the front of the jeep?  It sounds like you can't get your fingers on the bolt at all.  Bummer.

BTW, I wouldn't worry about including any washers at all if it makes it too awkward.  The jeep doesn't need washers there if it is that tight.  Mine have no washers and it has not loosened at all.
Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 13, 2020, 02:27:34 PM »

The bolt is the same as I took out. There is just enough room to have the lock washer + nut and maybe a 3/32 clearance. it is tight. I might have to loosen the motor mounts and like the engine drop a little. right now the back side of the engine block is up against the firewall.

I have notice in some You tube videos that the trans mission cut has been opened up. of course no ones shows them putting this bolt back in...... 

It might have been easier to pull the whole works to do this. the flat fenders are made for people with small hands.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: June 13, 2020, 12:18:45 PM »

If you can't even get it started, maybe the bolt is too short?  Flexible finger tips should be able to get at least one thread or so started with a clean nut and bolt, and then some thread sticking out past the nut when tight.  How much thread is exposed with no washer or nut yet?  Are you attempting washers on both sides of the BH mount?  If so, maybe remove the head side washer and try it.  Do you have an offset box wrench to get back under the firewall side?  Sorry, Just thinking out loud of any possible alternatives.  I installed my engine and tranny assembly already together, so I don't have the experience to draw from.  Good Luck!   
Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 13, 2020, 12:00:33 PM »

I tried that with my son. i was under the jeep and trying to hold the nut by hand while he turned the socket with a u joint and long extension from the top. Just can't get it started. I do find that the u-joint I have binds. i am going to get a new one today and try this again.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: June 13, 2020, 11:22:53 AM »

Does the tunnel cover open enough for a buddy with a flex drive and/or wobbler/universal joint extension through the floor and then the other person hold the nut?
Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 13, 2020, 10:53:34 AM »

thanks for the info guys. The bolts are the same length on the top of the bell housing. I can't remember the length, but when I get the bolt in, I can just barely get my left hand (with the lock washer and nut, to the space in motor. The gas pedal bracket on the block is in the way.

See attached picture that I found on the web . I guess the issue is that the body or transmission tunnel is so close, it is hard to get in there. I am plan on working on this later today and I will try these techniques. Wish me luck and thanks for the help. Much appreciated.
Posted by: aboyandhisdog
« on: June 12, 2020, 11:15:20 PM »

This one makes me laugh!  I went through this in March and even wrote down my technique after screwing around for an hour or so.  Crazy too, because I'd done it before!!!

First a note on Rus's comment.  On the L head the upper bolts are pretty short - maybe 1.5 - 2". 

Okay then, here is what I wrote down for the driver side upper bolt:

You will use the left hand to thread on the nut with washer.  Face the rear of the jeep.  Bend over and with the left hand, palm facing the front, use your index and middle fingers to hold the bolt in or to place it in if it isn't already inserted.  The bolt goes in from the rear and the nut will be between the block and the BH. 

Now, with the bolt in place, place the lock washer on the bolt (under the nut) if you are using a lock washer.  You can set the nut on the block right near where the bolt comes through.  You are still assuming the position as before, facing the rear of the jeep and bent over.  Now with the nut in place or in your left hand between the thumb and ring finger and the index and/or the middle fingers still holding the bolt in the hole, work the nut with the thumb and ring fingers until you get it started.  So you are holding the bolt in place with the index finger while working the nut with the thumb and ring or middle finger.  Whatever combination of fingers works best for you. 

Once you have it started thread it down as far as you can.  Okay, now you are done facing the rear of the jeep and can proceed like a normal guy.  Place a box end or open end wrench on the bolt with the handle sticking up in the 12:00 - 2:00 position.  You will hold this wrench with your left hand.  Place a gear wrench on the nut and work it with your right hand.  Piece of cake!  (Yeah, right!)
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: June 12, 2020, 09:07:31 PM »

My PM (F-head) shows the two up top are longer than the rest (assuming no difference with L-head).  Have you got the other installed?  Are they the same length (3")?  Is the housing flush against the back of the block (are the other bolts threaded and snug)?
Posted by: Jimmy Fehr
« on: June 12, 2020, 07:27:48 PM »

I have looked every where, but is there a special technique to get this bolt in. I can barely get my hands back there to hold the nut. I did try cutting a wrench and using masking tape to hold the nut, but i just can't get it started. I never have had this issue before..... wow.