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Topic Summary

Posted by: Birddog7
« on: January 28, 2017, 10:18:09 AM »

Rewiring Stryker, Bubba struck again with his wiring skills. 20 ft of extension cord to wire up the head lights and running lights. Plus used the light switch hole in the dash to mount the ignition switch and drilled a new hole for the light switch. So I have some new holes to drill for the ignition switch and hi beam light.
I want to thank all you folks that post pictures of your builds. Especially Athawk11, I was able to figure out what was wrong. The harness leads were not lining up right. It looks like I have 20 to 30 ft of extension cord to rear tail lights to. I will get it right some day.  :D
Posted by: athawk11
« on: July 21, 2016, 12:15:55 PM »

Figured you sold this one. ;D

Very interesting issue with the socket.  New stock vs. old stock?  Tolerances adjusted?  I guess it's a good thing they're cheap.  I removed and installed mine a couple times.  Broke off the tabs.  Had to go get a new one. :P

When I see your yellow, I think I'm just a little more pale.  Hard to tell in photos. :)

Hawk

Posted by: Birddog7
« on: July 20, 2016, 12:33:15 PM »

Hey I am on a roll today. It's raining here. Anybody need 16 feet of extension cord for there marker lights? Buba strikes again.  ;D I am having fun.
 

Posted by: Birddog7
« on: July 20, 2016, 12:13:07 PM »


Gee, two years since I posted anything about Stryker. I guess I am a procrastinator. Still working on the front axle. I get side tracked working on too many Willis at one time. I decide to mount the 1157 sockets in the grill like Athawk did. I ran into a problem. I bought 2 sockets from O'Reilly's cannot get smaller bulb's to lock in. Bought 2 from AutoZone they fit and lock in. The same manufacture, # and everything. You can tell by the pictures that one has thicker end and you can not push the bulb in far enough to turn and lock. Thought you folks might like to know this if you are doing this mod.
Posted by: Birddog7
« on: July 22, 2014, 10:01:02 AM »

Aghhhhhhh! Having several issuses putting axle back together. So I took it to a friend who does axle repair and upgrades for a living for rock crawler buggies. He took one look at my disassembly pic's and said it was put back together wrong by Bubba. He notice the bearing caps holding the carrier were installed wrong by looking at this pic and that would throw everthing off. The D's on the housing and blocks do not match.
Posted by: Birddog7
« on: July 16, 2014, 08:33:58 PM »

another one
Posted by: Birddog7
« on: July 16, 2014, 08:31:26 PM »

more pic"s Slide shaft with hole in first

Spider gears in and pinned

Ring gear to carrier locktited, torqued and tabs bent.
[IMG].
Posted by: Birddog7
« on: July 16, 2014, 08:23:40 PM »

Sorry I have not answered sooner. I have no idea how that shaft got galded like that. Only thing I can think of is when failed it locked up one axle and the other side kepy spining or they drug it home.
Had a chance to lay everthing out today to start reassembly. Made a video but can not load it from my Ipad to Photobucket. So you all are goong to have to live with stills. Heres everything laid out

Spider gears going back in. (note to self smaller gears have to be 180 degress opposite each other for the pin to go thru)
Posted by: F Bill
« on: June 26, 2014, 07:31:26 AM »

What do you figure caused the damage on the shaft?  Spinning one wheel too long with low lubricant levels? Towing? Improper part hardening?

Posted by: Birddog7
« on: June 25, 2014, 11:15:28 PM »

More pic's


Posted by: Birddog7
« on: June 25, 2014, 11:11:24 PM »

Tore into the heart of the D25 today. Found the cross shaft galded and metal flacks behind the small spider gears. Reading a lot about differentials. Trying to figure everything out. Jim Allen's book on differentials is the bible for information for me. My ring and pinion are not the stock ones but after market one and marked different. Here are some pic's.


Posted by: Birddog7
« on: June 22, 2014, 09:12:45 PM »

Stepson had pity on me today while I was cleaning my front axle. Took it to his work place to clean and he cleaned for me. The equipment for the right job.



Saved me about 3 days of cleaning.  :) note to self parts are really hot when they come out of steam washer.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: June 19, 2014, 10:24:50 PM »

Both my 3A and M38 have Bendix axles. Are you sure they are missing the bushings? I initially thought mine were too but after I little research determined they were OK.....I think....
Posted by: Birddog7
« on: June 19, 2014, 10:17:29 PM »

This is the strangest thing why they would not take the time to clean it properly. I should be thankful the ring and pinion are okay The pieces look like edges of a ring gear. This had the Bendix axle too. I did not think 3A's would have them. It was missing the outer axle bushings too for the Bendix axle shafts. We'll it looks like I am going to gain some experience on rebuilding a front axle.� :) Will keep you posted on my rebuild.
Ryan, that's the oil slinger I beat to heck getting the pinion oil seal out.
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: June 19, 2014, 09:45:44 PM »

Was that bearing in the lower right of your last pic all bent up like that when you opened the diff or did you do that removing it? Or maybe you threw it across the garage in frustration after watching the metal chunks drain out with the fluid? I'm with Tim - the ring and pinion looks oddly good for a differential with fluid that drained out looking like Goldschalger. Still a huge plus that it looks that good just strange....