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Topic Summary

Posted by: Owen
« on: March 28, 2016, 05:45:51 PM »

There have been three concerns/issues:

1. There is a small coolant leak, just drippy but the location of the leak has been located to be where a joint connects to the front of the engine block.

2. The right side brakes squeak when get hot after a 30 min drive. (I think we just need to loosen the shoes).

3.
And the biggest concern,
There's an oil leak where the engine mates with the transmission bell housing. I've been reading about this issue and I'm hoping its from the transmission rather than a rear main seal engine leak. The oil only leaks after driving the car, and leaks much quick after the oil (engine or transmission) is warm. We need some help with diagnosing this.

A rear main seal leak would require removing the engine and practically rebuilding it right?

And a transmission/gear oil leak seem like an easier task to fix but maybe I'm wrong...

If anyone who had had experience with this problem please feel free to reply, Thanks so much!
Posted by: Owen
« on: March 28, 2016, 05:33:36 PM »

Now, we've finished the the primary tasks and are now onto bodywork! This past weekend was spent grinding and sanding the old paint off and cleaning the body off. We only accomplished the exterior of the body. All that's left is some patching and fixing floor panels and the rear of the tub, sand the interior, and then we paint the whole thing! As of now the the car is primed and doesn't look so bad grey, so we are deciding between a darkish hunter green and some kind of machinery grey. We installed a new front bumper by the way, it really looks good.
Posted by: Owen
« on: March 28, 2016, 05:21:22 PM »

This is long over due. Since the last time I've posted, LOTS of progress has been made. We fought our way through installing a new wiring harness and turn signals on the Jeep and in the process discovered that our voltage regulator was garbage and wrecked 2 batteries, but on a positive note, a new voltage regulator have been installed along with a fresh battery. We've had no electrical hiccups since then.

Next, we completely overhauled the suspension, replacing the old terrifying ready-to-snap-in-half leaf packs, and the shocks. This process took 2 weekends to complete but it is refreshing knowing that you won't die when the suspension breaks in the middle of a drive.

Posted by: jp4ever
« on: February 06, 2016, 07:11:10 PM »

Owen, wishing you and your dad the best of luck with your willys.

Yours is in a lot better shape then mine, but a project is just that. Enjoy the quality time with dad, and a heated garage is NICE!  jp4ever
Posted by: garage gnome
« on: February 06, 2016, 10:28:57 AM »

That will be good to drive it! Looks like a great project.
Posted by: Owen
« on: February 05, 2016, 09:46:48 PM »

Just got in a couple hours of working on the Jeep, we finally fixed the brake dilemma. It turned out that I bled the brake line poorly, so after another bleed we have a strong brakes! What a relief... although we haven't taken it for a proper test. We'll do that tomorrow.

Speaking of tomorrow, we are going to be installing a new gas tank with a new sender gauge (the old one had a pinhole leak). If all goes well this weekend I might be able to drive the 3a myself!
Posted by: Owen
« on: February 05, 2016, 05:55:06 PM »

Thanks for explaining it to me Dre. We'll be sure to try adjusting the pushrod, because as of now the brakes don't feel like they are engaging. It'll hopefully fix it!
Posted by: Dre
« on: February 05, 2016, 05:50:31 PM »

Free play meaning when you press brake pedal until the moment that you feel that master cylinder has been engaged. It's like in the steering wheel free play - it's free movement of the wheel without turning the wheels.
Posted by: Owen
« on: February 05, 2016, 05:44:09 PM »

Quote
Make sure you have the correct free play on the plunger rod going into the master cylinder when you push the brake. In relaxed position you should have 1/2 inch of free play. If no free play you may not be pushing enough fluid to all 4 wheel cylinders.

Thank you so much for helping out! When you say free play do you mean the play of the pedal between when no brakes are applied and full brakes are applied?
Posted by: specialty
« on: February 04, 2016, 08:18:28 PM »

Make sure you have the correct free play on the plunger rod going into the master cylinder when you push the brake. In relaxed position you should have 1/2 inch of free play. If no free play you may not be pushing enough fluid to all 4 wheel cylinders.
Posted by: Owen
« on: February 04, 2016, 06:31:04 PM »

Over the past three weekends, my dad and I worked in the heated garage sheltered from the freezing cold. The hours and hours of work were spent finishing up all of the brakes. We replaced the three remaining drums, shoes, springs, and wheel cylinders. Most of the brake lines were replaced aside from the main line going from the master cylinder to the axle.

Then we took a test drive ...... It was so much fun when we went out in the neighborhood. Although, the brakes still aren't the best. They were soft and the pedal is a little spongy.

Here's where I need some advice, what's wrong with the brakes?

We bled the lines in the order; passenger's rear, driver's rear, passenger's front, then driver's front. Could there still be air in the line even though they were bled until no air bubble could be seen?

The shoes were adjusted so that they rubbed a little but could still move freely. We only used the middle adjusting screw and the bottom adjusting screws are so that the shoes are brought in all the way. 

My dad suggested the idea that maybe the brake pedal are needs to be adjust so that it pumps more pressure into the master cylinder. Is he right?

Thanks to those of you following our journey as we attempt to restore this jeep!
Posted by: Ryan_M
« on: January 18, 2016, 07:55:52 AM »

Looks like just as much fun the second time around as it did a couple weeks ago  ;D

Keep us posted on your progress!
Posted by: Dre
« on: January 18, 2016, 12:14:09 AM »

Interesting to see more 3A's in my neck of the woods... Mine was in far worse condition, now down to bare frame that goes for some welding and sandblast in a few days.

good luck!
Posted by: Owen
« on: January 14, 2016, 11:46:09 PM »

NOTE
This is the second time this topic has been posted, I stupidly deleted the topic while trying to delete my PMs (it was an accident but still stupid of me). Sorry to everyone that posted here! Now to rewrite my whole story here...

ORIGINAL
Here is where it begins ... the inspiration for this come from two of my Grandparent's neighbor's that both have Willys MBs that were military surplus after WWII. My dad and I have looked on craigslist for hundreds of hours for the perfect Jeep to work on as a project for my first car. We finally ended the search in December, it happened to be a 1950 CJ3A in Indiana that was originally from golf course in Michigan. Generally, its in good condition, there is a patch panel in the floor on the passenger's side and patch panels on the back of the body. The jeep came with an era correct Blackhawk plow system and a soft top in ok condition.

LIST OF EVERYTHING THAT NEEDS TO BE DONE
*Replace brakelines, wheel cylinders, drums, and e-brake
*Wire up turn signal kit
*Add passengers tail light

LIST OF EVERYTHING THAT HAS BEEN DONE
*Oil line from filter to block has been replaced
*Passengers front right drum and shoes have been replaced

I will re-post the pictures tomorrow