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Topic Summary

Posted by: NoCoWillys
« on: April 09, 2014, 12:30:27 AM »

Oh now that's interesting.  Looks like it's designed to allow all the crud to collect around the drain plug so you could drain it out from there.  I like it.  I ended up getting a new tank and tossed that in a few days ago. I've been able to get it out and driving!  I'll get some pics here in a day or so.  Really feels good to get it out moving.  I loaded it up on a car hauler today and took it to the state patrol to get inspected.  The PO botched getting the title transferred over into his own name and sat on it for years before I got it.  It looks like I shouldn't have too much trouble getting it titled though.  Once I'm through the whole process I'll do a quick write up on my experience here in Colorado dealing with that.  Thanks for all the help getting to this point!
Posted by: Bob W
« on: April 08, 2014, 08:15:18 PM »

I got a better photo of the fuel pickup.

Posted by: NoCoWillys
« on: March 28, 2014, 07:32:01 PM »

That's worth a shot.  I have a whole roll of safety wire...  In other news, I disconnected the fuel line and put it in a cup of gas and cranked it over.  Fuel pump is working as it should!  After fiddling with it some I realized I had the spark plug wires backwards.  I'm sure I'm not the first to do this... Once the right way fired right up!  First time it's run in 2 years since I brought it home.  Good oil pressure and sounded smooth.  Getting close now!  ;D
Posted by: 1955CJ-5
« on: March 28, 2014, 04:42:45 PM »

A local fellow who had a jeep for sale said he unclogged the pickup tube with some aircraft safety wire, doubled over and forced through the hole...safety wire is pretty small gauge, but very flexible and strong......
Posted by: macrisel
« on: March 28, 2014, 04:38:46 PM »

Quote
As far as I know all original tanks have the U shaped pickup tube. Perhaps the aftermarket stuff doesn't. Here is a poor photo of the tube inside the tank where it picks up fuel...

My aftermarket tank from Walcks has the U shaped pickeup tube.

Posted by: NoCoWillys
« on: March 28, 2014, 02:13:29 PM »

Interesting. I think I'll try running something through the tube again but I think it's clogged at the bend and won't let anything through.  I even tried some thin welding wire from my mig setup and it wouldn't make the turn.  I did place an order for a new tank so probably all a moot point now.  Thanks!
Posted by: Bob W
« on: March 28, 2014, 01:41:13 PM »

As far as I know all original tanks have the U shaped pickup tube. Perhaps the aftermarket stuff doesn't. Here is a poor photo of the tube inside the tank where it picks up fuel...

Posted by: athawk11
« on: March 28, 2014, 12:41:36 PM »

Quote
...using a tiny flexible cable like an old speedo cable, driven by a drill and pushed thru the tube from� the bottom of the tank...
 

That's a bonafide VCI!! (Very Clever Idea)� I like it!



The four tanks I have messed with, all have the U-shaped pick up tube.� It's actually a good design.� The tube doesn't quite touch the bottom of the tank, thus keeping debree out of the fuel line, and in the bottom of the tank, if the tank runs dry.� If the fuel was delivered directly through the bottom of the tank, and the tank ran dry, all the debree would be sucked into the fuel line, offering a greater chance of a clogged system.

This is why I shutter everytime someone decides to hook the fuel line to the drain hole on the bottom of the tank.

Tim
Posted by: F Bill
« on: March 28, 2014, 09:01:13 AM »

I think it was Bruce W who discovered that some tanks have a pickup tube that loops up and back down to the floor of the tank..It sounds like yours may be plugged. Time to look inside the tank, best done thru the fuel sender hole.. Bruce had a pinhole in his line that made him run out of fuel when the fuel level reached it.

You might have success with a miniature roto rooter technique, using a tiny flexible cable like an old speedo cable, driven by a drill and pushed thru the tube from  the bottom of the tank...

If all else fails you can break off the tube, or install another tube with a filter sock either there or at the drain hole and reroute the fuel line.  It can be done without soldering on the tank, but if you choose to repair it in the original location you probably ought to have the pros boil it out and do the work.
Posted by: NoCoWillys
« on: March 27, 2014, 11:38:52 PM »

Well after draining out the tank and removing it, it seems I didn't get the fuel tank completely clean.  I didn't realize at least my tank has some sort of pickup. It's not just a bung on the bottom.  I take it that is expected?  I can get air to go through if I have a line hooked up to it and dump my compressor into it, but barely.  It takes a lot of pressure.  Once I release the pressure it plugs back up.  I can't get gas to flow out of the tank for anything.  The rest of the tank seems OK but I just cant get this tube to clear out.  Any ideas?  I'm almost to just trashing the tank but would rather not...  :-/
Posted by: NoCoWillys
« on: March 26, 2014, 07:42:50 PM »

Thanks everyone.  I've got new plugs and wires.  I didn't redo the cap and rotor since it was running before I cleaned it up.  I'm a bit concerned the carb might be a little gummed up but I haven't even gotten gas to the pump (through the filter I have before the pump either.)  I know the line is clear now so I think the next step is to get a couple more gallons of fresh gas in the tank then try again.  The whole project hasn't been easy the ol' girl won't give up that easy. 
Posted by: F Bill
« on: March 26, 2014, 11:02:47 AM »

Fresh spark plugs are always a good idea when troubleshooting a no start condition. Often they get fouled and won't spark, due to fuel deposits , etc. There is a way to clean them that involves heating with a torch till the insulator is red hot and letting them cool slowly but at the price of a set of plugs many won't want to bother.

Also on the fuel issue, FRESH fuel is a must nowadays with that darn corngas  they sell.
Posted by: athawk11
« on: March 26, 2014, 10:50:59 AM »

NoCo,

Think about the basics when starting your Willys.� You need fuel, compression, and spark.

The fuel systems is really self priming.� Have you seen fuel delivered to your fuel filter bowl?� If so, the fuel pump is working.� If you look down the carb throte while pulling on the accelerator linkage, and you see some fuel squirts, the carb bowl also has fuel and the carb fuel jet at the bottom of the fuel bowl is not clogged.� If you see these things, your non start is probably not fuel related.�

Compression:� Even with a bad engine and poor compression, you will still, normally, be able to start the engine.� It just may be under powered, or burn oil, or similar.

Spark:� Critical to make sure your timing is close, if not dead on.� Spark plug cables are routed to the correct firing order. (I always do this wrong for some reason. :-[� Counter clock wise on the distributor.) Spark plug gaps to .030.� Points clean and gapped to .020.� A good coil. A good condencer.�

I'm sure there are some additional things to consider when starting it up.� Hopefully others will chime in.

Good luck.

Tim

Posted by: NoCoWillys
« on: March 26, 2014, 12:23:04 AM »

Got a lot of progress done over the past week.  Here's some shots:



I got glass put in at a local commercial/residential and auto glass shop.  I took the frame and gasket in and picked it up a few hours later.  Looks great!


I've gotten as far as trying to start it.  However I just can't seem to get fuel to flow to the pump.  I ended up finding a clogged line between the pump and tank that I blew out with air.  I might just not have enough gas in the tank now.  Any tips for priming the system?   I've gotten it to chug a few times using starter fluid but that's it. 
Posted by: Quebec Jeep
« on: March 20, 2014, 09:48:40 AM »

I do agree with you, I ordered one from Walcks and it broke while I was trying to install it. Very cheap plastic stuff.

I bought an old sparton model one, all in metal....! Work great!