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Topic Summary

Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: September 06, 2025, 10:06:53 AM »

Quote from: Mayberry on September 06, 2025, 09:44:47 AM
Thanks guys. I got it wired and got it to start and run. I don’t have power going to the horn or headlights at the moment. And I still need to wire in the turn signals and brake lights. But it runs so I’m happy.


Well done!
Posted by: Mayberry
« on: September 06, 2025, 09:44:47 AM »

Thanks guys. I got it wired and got it to start and run. I don’t have power going to the horn or headlights at the moment. And I still need to wire in the turn signals and brake lights. But it runs so I’m happy.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: September 01, 2025, 10:41:25 AM »

I had another thought....

Since I've never seen a Walck's harness, I don't know how detailed it is.  My harness, explained above, came with detailed instructions.  Also, each wire had a number attached to it.  This corresponded to the number for that wire in the instructions.  I've attached an image below to show what I mean.  If no lableling, you can use numbers, alphabet or just name it, i.e. "L tail light" etc.

Notice on the image that wires coming from the taillights labeled "3" are yellow with a tracer but plug into a connector for a black with tracer wire that ran forward.  Notice that is also labeled "3."  Using a similar method on everything will help you keep it straight.  And, oh by the way, yes - I paused multiple times to study and verify before crawling under and connecting. 
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: September 01, 2025, 10:26:18 AM »

Rus has given you a game strategy and diagram for diagram-comparison to get you started.  I'm guessing, the 4 pole starter switch is 1) 12V source, 2) accessory position, 3) on position, and 4) temporary contact starter pole.  I have an aftermarket turn signal, as seen with attached pics, so I have also included the instructions with it.  Maybe that will help some involving the taillights, turn lights connections, and the required flasher.  It is too bad (and too late now) that you didn't cut/divide the wires at each terminal with labels at the terminal end and matching labels at the other end, so that once everything was out in the open you could trace the wires and their "functions" better.  You have a lot of "changes" to do anyway, so it may not be that important now.  Just follow Rus's suggestions using diagrams to keep everything "going in the right direction".
 
FYI... since I too made many modifications/additions to my DJ3A's system, I drew everything out on a large poster so I could see it all before actually using wires/connectors.  That way any "modifications" desired could be seen early on and ID'd before starting the actual "labor" in and around the vehicle.  That's just another suggestion for your consideration.  I'm sure others will have theirs too.  Don't get overwhelmed.  Just do one step at a time.  Good Luck! and let us know how it is going.  BTW... Pics help us understand your specifics better as well.
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: August 31, 2025, 09:52:13 PM »

Quote from: Mayberry on August 31, 2025, 03:08:10 PM
Good afternoon,

I am currently working on putting in a new wiring harness in my 1950 CJ3A. I ordered the Walcks wiring harness a few years ago before he sold. I ordered the one for a CJ3A with turn signals and 12v.

Pulling out the old wiring was a pain, but it was all cobbled together including wire nuts, house wire, and every connection was butt spliced together. The previous owner only used gray flat house wire, and red wire. Trying to trace down where some red wires went after multiple butt splices got to be too much. So I’m not sure how a couple of things were wired at all.

Even though the handwritten instructions that came with the harness were not great, a lot of the install was pretty straightforward. I’m running into a couple issues that I just want to clarify. My Jeep has the following, and everything sorta worked correctly before I started this project. I say that because it had a draw somewhere that was draining the battery if it sat for too long. And the lights were hit or miss if they worked. It also had aftermarket windshield wipers that just stopped working a few months ago. The only new part besides the wiring harness is I did replace battery now, and I bought in actual headlight switch. Mine ran off a toggle switch before.

My Jeep has the following modifications:

1. Buick odd fire V6 and not the stock flat 4.
2. Chevy alternator.
3. Delco electronic distributor.
4. It has a 4 terminal keyed ignition switch to start the Jeep.
5. Warn 8274 front mounted winch.

First, the Walcks directions call for a 12 gauge wire with 3 white tracers to go from the amp meter to the starter? I don’t have an amp meter, but I don’t understand why you would run a wire from there to the starter? With a 4 terminal ignition switch I thought I only needed one wire going from the ignition to the starter. Can anyone clarify?

Second, does the alternator connect to the battery and the voltmeter gauge? Or just the battery? Mine has one plug with two wires coming out. It had one short wire going to the post of the alternator but the other wire went to a fuse box. The fuse box went to the inside of the dash but I have no idea where it was hooked up because of all those previous red wires.

Third how is the distributor connected? My distributor has a power wire and a tach wire. The previous owner had the power wire spliced in  two, one side went to a fuse box and one went under the dash. I’m not sure where the wire under the dash went.

Fuse box. Do I need one? The previous owner had 3. One in the engine bay and two up under the dash. The ones under the dash were pointed up, there is no way you could check fuses without removing them. The only connections I could follow from the previous owners fuse boxes went to the turn signals, headlights, flashers, and high beam foot switch.

Relays? Do I need them for the turn signals or hazards? I have an after market turn signal switch but I’m not sure it has an internal relay.

copy/paste so it's readable.

Mayberry,
This is a lot to unpack.  Starting with the wiring harness from Walck's.  Did you order yours to handle the V6 and the alternator?  The wires themselves will handle 12V or 6V (with only a few exceptions).  It's the wires that are included that will make your harness fit.  Or..... at least you'll know what to change or add later as you go, to accommodate the changes your jeep has.

When I rewired mine, I didn't have anything to compare it to, what I already had was similar to yours - all one color and cobbled/criss-crossing, etc.   With no wiring anywhere on the jeep (easiest way to go IMHO) I started from the rear (taillights) and worked forward. 

It's a shame the instructions weren't detailed.  Mine from Vintage Wiring were.  It was broken into sections, so I just did one section at a time.  That made it easier for me.

Compare this interactive wiring harness for a 2A against the color code for your Walck's 3A harness and I'll bet many of the wire colors will match.

https://www.cj-2a.com/techtips/electrical/harness/index.html

Toggle all across the options with green checkmark - according to what you have.  Mine was all green checks on the bottom vs. the red X.  Then the buttons below that eliminate specific sections of the wiring harness.  This simplifies the image.  Go one component at a time.

Since you have a different engine and distributor, I don't know what the fuse requirements are.  For the basic stock jeep, there were no fuses.  Just one circuit breaker built into the light switch.  That's all that was needed.  You list a 4 terminal ignition.  That suggests the foot starter switch was removed?  If you do decide to keep the fuses, then by all means remove the box and turn it around so you can easily access them!  The lights do not need a relay.  The horn may need one if it's aftermarket or modern.  The turn signals will need a flasher.

Take your time.  Others will add their knowledge to get you a better picture.
Posted by: Mayberry
« on: August 31, 2025, 03:08:10 PM »

Good afternoon,

I am currently working on putting in a new wiring harness in my 1950 CJ3A. I ordered the Walcks wiring harness a few years ago before he sold. I ordered the one for a CJ3A with turn signals and 12v.

Pulling out the old wiring was a pain, but it was all cobbled together including wire nuts, house wire, and every connection was butt spliced together. The previous owner only used gray flat house wire, and red wire. Trying to trace down where some red wires went after multiple butt splices got to be too much. So I’m not sure how a couple of things were wired at all.

Even though the handwritten instructions that came with the harness were not great, a lot of the install was pretty straightforward. I’m running into a couple issues that I just want to clarify. My Jeep has the following, and everything sorta worked correctly before I started this project. I say that because it had a draw somewhere that was draining the battery if it sat for too long. And the lights were hit or miss if they worked. It also had aftermarket windshield wipers that just stopped working a few months ago. The only new part besides the wiring harness is I did replace battery now, and I bought in actual headlight switch. Mine ran off a toggle switch before.

My Jeep has the following modifications:

1. Buick odd fire V6 and not the stock flat 4.
2. Chevy alternator.
3. Delco electronic distributor.
4. It has a 4 terminal keyed ignition switch to start the Jeep.
5. Warn 8274 front mounted winch.

First, the Walcks directions call for a 12 gauge wire with 3 white tracers to go from the amp meter to the starter? I don’t have an amp meter, but I don’t understand why you would run a wire from there to the starter? With a 4 terminal ignition switch I thought I only needed one wire going from the ignition to the starter. Can anyone clarify?

Second, does the alternator connect to the battery and the voltmeter gauge? Or just the battery? Mine has one plug with two wires coming out. It had one short wire going to the post of the alternator but the other wire went to a fuse box. The fuse box went to the inside of the dash but I have no idea where it was hooked up because of all those previous red wires.

Third how is the distributor connected? My distributor has a power wire and a tach wire. The previous owner had the power wire spliced in  two, one side went to a fuse box and one went under the dash. I’m not sure where the wire under the dash went.

Fuse box. Do I need one? The previous owner had 3. One in the engine bay and two up under the dash. The ones under the dash were pointed up, there is no way you could check fuses without removing them. The only connections I could follow from the previous owners fuse boxes went to the turn signals, headlights, flashers, and high beam foot switch.

Relays? Do I need them for the turn signals or hazards? I have an after market turn signal switch but I’m not sure it has an internal relay.