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Topic Summary

Posted by: farm1810
« on: October 21, 2022, 03:32:26 PM »

Just an update.  I moved the temp  sender to a new hole that I drilled and tapped into the top of the thermostat housing.  It has a 170 degree thermostat and now tops out at about 185.  That is when the electric fan kicks on and it drops back to about 180 or slightly below.  So all seems okay, or at least I am going to drive it that way.
Posted by: farm1810
« on: October 07, 2022, 08:40:54 PM »

My electric fan is an experiment to see if I have a little extra power.  I have an alternator so have electric, but wondered if when moving down the road if I would get a little extra hp when the fan didn't need to run.  I have tapped the top of the thermostat housing and moving the sensor there as per several on line articles about the best location for a gauge sensor.  We'll see.  Haven't tried the degree of experiments mentioned above, but that is very interesting.  I may try some things based on that feedback.  Thanks for your response, as always. 
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: October 07, 2022, 11:34:12 AM »

I hope your SO hasn't noticed you're using kitchen tools in the garage!

There was a member on the 2A forum with non-stop temperature issues.  It was a lot of back and forth that eventually ended up being a new (and tested) radiator that was causing the problems.

I've used a laser thermometer for stuff like this, as well as everywhere else in my house. Very handy!  You can, as Steve describes, take spot readings on specific areas to compare.

I'm not as adventurous as y'all about rerouting or changing.  I'm challenged enough to try and get the original to work as intended!

You mentioned an electric fan.  Is this in addition to the mechanical or in place of?

I also have followed the advice of a small hole added to the thermostat.
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: October 07, 2022, 09:37:44 AM »

L-heads seem to have a wide range of operating temps within the block as "gauged by Colin Peabody" for my experiment.  Results were with a digital thermometer.  With a 180 degree thermostat at "operating temperature", at the cylinder head locations by the spark plugs, #1 read 173, #2 read 183 (thermostat relieves temp), #3 read 201 (no air around that cylinder), and #4 read 194.  The factory 3/4 sensor location is going to be the hottest, while your 160 degree radiator temp to #1 AND the "fan air" keep it the coolest, a 30 degree temperature variance. 
 
BTW, the petcock area on the lower block read 173 while the head area "thermostat location" was reading 183.  I attempted to balance my block temps by adding a bypass 1/4" steel tube from the rear #4 heater hose "T" (where I tapped in my sensor location) and routed the tubing to the water pump "intake" bypass-fitting (I don't have a bypass to the head) to "pre-heat #1 incoming water temp" while relieving some temperature from the back of the block (somewhat like your free-flowing hose water test) with better water movement. 
 
I also routed a heater hose from #3 "factory senor-location" to the lower cooler "petcock" area to route the "excessive heated area" to the lower block below the thermostat hoping for a "more balanced heat result" at the thermostat.  Unfortunately, "health impacts" have never allowed me to "test" my system as the engine sits on a dolly completed but not started ever since.  The "theory" was to route high heat to lower heat areas and increase #1 heat higher for "even mixture/spark temps" and more accurate use of the radiator cooling.  I wish I had some "actual results" to share from my experiment.  I'd be interested to hear any other "heat balancing" experiments/efforts.  Thanks.   
Posted by: farm1810
« on: October 06, 2022, 05:55:17 PM »

Hello all,
I have an L-134 that is running a 3 core aluminum radiator, a 14" electric fan, and a 170 degree thermostat.  I have a stewart warner electric water temperature gauge.  I flushed the system today as the gauge has been reading about 200 degrees.  The sensor for the fan is installed on the right side of the cylinder head and the sensor for the gauge is in a tee in the rear of the head with the valve / fitting for the heater core.  Today, I opened the petcock on the right side of the block and had a garden hose in the radiator fill opening and let the Jeep run for about a half hour like that.  During this process, the temperature gauge never got above about 180 degrees.  The fan came on at about point telling me that is about right.  I finished the flush, buttoned up and the gauge temp slowly crept back to about 200 degrees.  With that I got a kitchen thermometer made for checking oil temp for deep frying.  I put it into the top tank of the radiator and it was right about 160 - 170 degrees.  What should I believe?  I don't believe I had an air bubble back there as I opened the valve for the heater core and it heated right up telling me I have flow back there.  Any ideas?  Maybe I should have the temp sender over on the right side where it would have been originally (mechanical original I think).  Thoughts?  Thank you.