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Topic Summary

Posted by: farm1810
« on: July 29, 2022, 12:11:52 PM »

Thanks, that was most helpful.  I was inclined to leave them off, but thought to seek advice. 
Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: July 29, 2022, 10:49:29 AM »

These "pal nuts" are still listed in the CJ3B Parts Manual (PM) for the F-head.

GROUP 10-05--CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS
GM-107823     Nut, stamped, 3/8"-24 (Connecting rod cap bolt nut lock).......8

My engine didn't have them during my first tear-down for rebuild (did NOT have a PM, did NOT have the internet to ask).  Back then I ran it hard and everything was still intact when I did a fresh rebuild this time around.  I've read about this before and here's one thread:

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/should-i-use-pal-nuts-on-my-rod-ends-or-not_topic44728_post449069.html?KW=rod+pal+nut#449069

Emphasis was on if torqued on correctly, they cannot be reused.
Posted by: farm1810
« on: July 29, 2022, 08:19:16 AM »

Hello all,

My engine was stuck (just from sitting).  I tried WD-40 down the spark plug holes.  Rocked it in 3rd gear.  Tried Marvel Mystery oil.  Tried Acetone and ATF.  Finally pulled the head and #3 cylinder had a nice coating of rust.  Other 3 looked like new.  Soaked, tapped, rocked, etc and it wouldn't move.  I knocked surface rust from on top of the piston, pulled the pan, then pushed the piston out the top.  Glad I did as there was significant rust below the piston.  Honed the cylinder and it cleaned up nicely (to my surprise). 

Anyway... my question is.  The connecting rod bolts have nuts and a locking nut.  The lock nut is very thin and I cannot see where it accomplishes much.  Should I put those back in place and if so, what do I torque the lock nut to?  I already torqued the connecting rod nuts to 40 lb ft, but there is now way these locking nuts will take that sort of torque.  Thoughts?