I’m looking at buying some used wheels and I am trying to figure out if they have to use tubes or can be used for tubeless tires. Is there an easy way to determine this? Also is there a good reason to use tubes? Thanks! Btw does this look like a stockish wheel?
Those look to be original pre 1956 KH pJeep wheels.
Can’t see clearly…
If they have a 1/8†hole drilled near the bolt circle then they are early pickup, M38 /M38 A1 wheels.
I've copy/pasted so the posts are visible.
I wanted to respond earlier but got busy and wanted to find some posts over on the 2A forum (this has come up several times there) and needed a bit of search time.
I ran retreads and tubes initially when my jeep was bought. That lasted until I parked it for storage (1977-1985). The valve stem holes were rusted back and there was a lot of water leaking into the rims (most could have been done long before I got this jeep, but I didn't hesitate to cross creeks/slosh through mud, so I absolutely contributed). During the rebuild, I removed the tires and couldn't believe the amount of pitted rust. All the valve stem holes were rusted out, thin and jagged - bad for tubes, no-go for valve stems. I replaced all the wheels (riveted, mind you), found some tubeless bias ply tires (Hercules) and found a shop that agreed to mount them tubeless. That was back in the late '90's. They're still holding air (garaged vs. out in the elements). I haven't had a chance to really road test them (just a couple of laps around the back yard so far). So, time will tell if this was the right choice. Tubes are easy to add - if you can separate the bead.
I will suggest maybe the biggest point is whether the tires are listed as tubeless or not. If the tire, i.e. an NDT that's listed "tube type" then you should follow that. Also, the next biggest thing is what you have (or want to do) for fixing flats. Tube tires will need to be broken down to A) remove the thing that caused the flat, and B) fix the tube. The tubless can be plugged while still on the rim. Another advantage to tubes is punctures near the sidewall can be successfully patched.
The discussions on the 2A forum have a lot of first-hand experience with owners doing offroad (including airing tires down) or hiway mileage to include radials:
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/original-wheels-and-tubeless-tires_topic36373_post341667.html?KW=tube+tubeless#341667https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/narrow-tire-choices_topic32411_post296517.html?KW=tube+tubeless#296517https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/16-tires-1948-cj3a_topic40205_post385543.html?KW=tube+tubeless#385543https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/sealing-tubed-rims-no-rust_topic50872_post518419.html?KW=tube+tubeless#518419https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/pic-of-6-5x16-next-to-worn-7x16_topic50993_post520168.html?KW=tube+tubeless#520168https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/firestone-ndt-sidewall-cracks_topic51119_post521537.html?KW=tube+tubeless#521537https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/ndt-air-pressure_topic49559_post503705.html?KW=tube+tubeless#503705https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/now-that-i-found-wheels_topic49183_post499980.html?KW=tube+tubeless#499980Hopefully, this will help.
