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Topic Summary

Posted by: Rus Curtis
« on: April 24, 2022, 12:53:06 PM »

So I just broke down in my jeep and Im getting zero spark.  I think its a bad ignition module because everything else checks out.  I have an omix-ada electronic dist from Walcks.  I found a replacement module on eBay which I will try but I have read that omix are pretty iffy on reliability.  I don't have the old distributor.  Does anyone know if the Pertronix module can be put into the omix distributor case?  I did notice there are more wires on the omix module.  I keep seeing that the pertronix is basically bullet proof with no issues.  I am going to add a ground wire from coil to block just in case.

thoughts?

Thanks,
Nate

This should be a new post started by you.  It's easier to find and follow along vs. embedded in PercyUK's thread.  I do have some thoughts.
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: April 24, 2022, 03:12:45 AM »

Hi Nate, I can't help you I'm afraid. I was chasing a misfire at the time and was concerned that it may have been the electronic dizzy. I didn't think that I could diagnose the problem so I replaced it with a new mechanical one as I was more comfortable with the tech.
I'm sure one of the other guys will have the answer.
Posted by: Shark49
« on: April 23, 2022, 04:07:46 PM »

So I just broke down in my jeep and Im getting zero spark.  I think its a bad ignition module because everything else checks out.  I have an omix-ada electronic dist from Walcks.  I found a replacement module on eBay which I will try but I have read that omix are pretty iffy on reliability.  I don't have the old distributor.  Does anyone know if the Pertronix module can be put into the omix distributor case?  I did notice there are more wires on the omix module.  I keep seeing that the pertronix is basically bullet proof with no issues.  I am going to add a ground wire from coil to block just in case.

thoughts?

Thanks,
Nate
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: December 05, 2021, 02:31:30 PM »

Hiya, having just done a top end build I am keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have to revisit it again. I will carry on and keep you updated with any progress.
Sods law it will be something simple that I have overlooked....... Hopefully!!!!
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: December 05, 2021, 02:23:46 PM »

OK Percy, I didn't want to go in this direction from "my unique experience", but it seems you have covered all electrical bases.  When I got my DJ, it had a strange miss and pop no matter what I did for tuning.  When I  removed the engine and took it apart, I found "open cracks" at the flanges of the intake mounts, letting in air to the shared cylinder out of sync.  PO not only cracked the flanges, but did a 'bubba weld attempt' that was not solving anything.  Maybe that 'crack potential' is something to check for on yours?  Good Luck.
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: December 05, 2021, 12:49:38 PM »

Hi Steve and everyone else.
 Well I revisited my earth's as suggested , cleaned and replaced the cables, fitting two instead of one and no change. I am truely baffled at this point.
 The next step is to use another strobe light to confirm my suspicions that it is electrical and then work from there.?
When I finally discover the problem you will all be the first to know!
Posted by: Mark W.
« on: November 11, 2021, 08:50:54 PM »

Percy,
  I have two customers who have been running new-made replacement distributors, one for 4-5 years, the other for 2-3. Both seem to be running fine up to this point. I got them from Walck's 4WD.
  I get a kick out of all those who change to electronic ignition "for reliability" but carry the points and condenser along "just in case". I don't know anyone who is running the original points distributor who carries an extra set of points or condenser. Or who has ever needed same.
BW

Currently me. As I was unable to adapt the Petronix unit to my IAT-4405 I went back to points. I am currently carrying a spare coil, cap, rotor, points, two condensers one old one new Accel, A coil wire and a plug wire as well as 4 plugs.
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: November 11, 2021, 04:29:25 PM »

Hey Steve, I didn't think you were challenging at all, no worries there.
Sorry if my message conveyed that, it wasn't intentional just poorly written in haste.
Thanks for your help, and when I find out what's happening you will be the first to know.
Cheers
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: November 11, 2021, 11:04:27 AM »

Percy,  I wasn't trying to challenge your "competence", just going over my typical list of events I would follow, not knowing exactly what all you have already done and have there to work with.  Electrical can be tricky, and especially hard to diagnose intermittent issues.  My thinking was... a weak ground may "work" under low load and linear conditions, but under the demand of high speed RPM spark voltage demand, and/or vibrations, continuity issues may show up.  I'm sure you'll find the problem.  Keep us posted.  Thanks.
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: November 11, 2021, 01:23:22 AM »

Hi Steve, thanks for the reply.
I also have a new cap, points and rotor which came with the dizzy.
I think my earth's are good as everything else works fine but will check anyway just in case. I consider myself to be reasonably competent and experienced with motors but I must admit to being stumped at this point.!!!! 
I may revisit the carb, even though it "feels" electrical, further updates to follow.
Cheers
Posted by: SteveKfl
« on: November 10, 2021, 04:25:02 PM »

You haven't mentioned the "cap/rotor" condition yet.  A crack or corrosion can cause an arc misfire.  After checking that, I would suggest checking your 'grounds".  Engine to frame strap corroded or loose?  Too much paint on mounting threads and/or surfaces for proper grounds?  That is how "I" would start to look elsewhere now after all of your "voltage input checks".  I'm sure the "experts" will have more detailed suggestions.  I hope it turns out to be something easy to fix for you.  Good Luck!
 
Here's what google said about the cap and rotor and arcing...
 
How can you tell if distributor cap is bad?
Usually a faulty distributor rotor and cap will produce a few symptoms that alert the driver that service may be required.
Engine misfires. Engine misfires can occur for a number of reasons. ...
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: November 10, 2021, 01:10:31 PM »

Well I'm stumped. I fitted a nice new distributor with new points and condenser and still have the misfire. New coil, new leads, new spark plugs and now a new dizzy. 12v input to the coil checked OK and I even provided a supply direct from the battery to remove the wiring harness from the equation but still without result. I even suspected that the alternator fitted might have been sending a spike or signal that interfered with the ignition so I removed the fan belt so it didn't spin and ran it but still no change. I am royalty confused and have run out of ideas. Bty I suspect that it is electrical because when a timing light is attached to the coils output I see the strobe light faltering and from experience it just feels electrical. Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: November 08, 2021, 03:07:07 AM »

Cheers Bruce, I will check it out and see if I can source one over here in the UK
Posted by: Bruce_W
« on: November 07, 2021, 08:18:03 PM »

 Percy,
  I have two customers who have been running new-made replacement distributors, one for 4-5 years, the other for 2-3. Both seem to be running fine up to this point. I got them from Walck's 4WD.
  I get a kick out of all those who change to electronic ignition "for reliability" but carry the points and condenser along "just in case". I don't know anyone who is running the original points distributor who carries an extra set of points or condenser. Or who has ever needed same.
BW
Posted by: PercyUK
« on: November 07, 2021, 02:39:20 PM »

Hi Bill, yes I have the original go devil engine fitted but sadly no old dizzy to rebuild. I am looking for ideas regarding a quality replacement as there are a lot of poor repos out there. Any views about who are making good replacements would be appreciated.