Posted by: tow hook
« on: February 24, 2022, 02:35:35 PM »after 2 sets of bushings from k.w. i got one good rear bushing. i just purchased a inner bushing n.o.s. from quarter ton military guy to finish the job. a 4 hour job will take 2 weeks 
Welcome to our new forum software.
We are now using SMF instead of YaBB.
“Back in the day”, as you younkers are fond of saying, reaming of new bushings was the way it was done. A shaft would almost never fit and run in an un-reamed new bushing. Bushings were made and supplied undersized so that they could be reamed for perfect fit and perfect clearance. I have seen some lately that seem to fit without reaming, but it worries me. What if the shaft is actually only contacting the bushings on some high spots? Soon the clearance will be excessive and you can’t make it smaller. I like to know that the bushings are in there perfectly straight, perfectly aligned, and perfectly sized. But if they seem to fit without reaming, what are you going to do?
BW
See the picture posted by JON above, with the circled area. If you find a weld bead around that center button or anywhere on that face, it is one of the “bad” shafts. All others, as in the one shown, are”supposed” to be ok. That just means that none have broken yet.
I believe that the originals were forged as one piece and machined, with the “buttons or teeth” being the only added parts.
BW
wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one
Yeah, seems like they "corrected the problem". However, it's important to be able to identify the bad parts as someone might part out a jeep they don't know much about. If one was put in by a previous owner, then bad shafts make their way back out on the market.
Always willing to help someone out when I can. Speaking of....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/291645257603?epid=15024469219&hash=item43e7697783:g:1RAAAOSwGI9btg6L
Just sayin'This is where I got mine, so I can attest to getting what was advertised.
I dont' see any NOS sector shaft's available anymore, unfortunately. Make sure you get the 7/8ths one tho. M-38's and M-38A1's are larger diameter (and I think the truck ones are also not interchangeable)
wow, thanks sooo much. seems like the old sector shafts have been off the market for a well. me try any find a new/ good used one
This is where I got mine, so I can attest to getting what was advertised. Made in China shaft - - don’t tell me, let me guess - Omix-ADA? Kaiser-Willys? Perhaps you would do well to read up on the Omix-ADA shafts that were BREAKING in use. Learn how to identify the bad shafts and avoid them. The problem has supposedly been corrected.
After installation in the box, the bushings (should) need to be reamed to the correct inside diameter to match the shaft with the proper amount of clearance for lube. If yours is “tight” but you can push it in and out and turn it by hand, it’s probably alright. DON’T hone it with a brake cylinder hone. The hone will leave abrasive particles embedded in the bushings which will cause premature wear on the shaft and the bushings. All jeeps from 1941 to 1971 except M38, M38A1, and V-6 CJ5’s use the same shaft and bushings.
BW
what is the difference between kaiser willys and walcks ? it's all made in china ? right...? i'm guessing mid west willys would have a good used one ? either way i'll have a ream the new bushings.... any thoughts on the best place to get them? i though k/w was a good place..... maybe not ? 
when you say reamed... to fix the box or the shaft ?
When the sector shaft bushings go in, they'll compress slightly (and may even be made at a slightly smaller ID?). They need to be a perfect 0.875" after they're inserted (to accept the sector shaft, which I recall is about a 1/1000th smaller). Hence the hand reamer. This affords a tight fit, with a small enough space for oil to encompass the shaft. This is only if you're putting new bushings in. If there are old ones there, they *might* be ok? but that's not something I'll be able to answer.
When you're done rebuilding, use very viscous oil, not a grease. Metalshaper sells 1000W stuff at about $30 a quart (you'll use about a third of that). I bought some. Couldn't be happier with it.
when you say reamed... to fix the box or the shaft ?
Agreed! Don't half way it!
Got my bushings from DeBella so that might be why. Agree about tight steer too. I bought one, but with the box properly rebuilt, don't need it.